Lullaby F, Worlds End (2025)

19/05/2022

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Move over I Saw It First and Missguided, Love Island’s head has been turned. After facing public backlash for promoting fast fashion, the reality show has inked a deal with Ebay to kit out this year’s contestants in pre-loved clothing.

Fast fashion has finally given Love Island “the ick”. The show is hoping to use its influence to inspire more sustainable behaviour change, a move that could help make sustainability aspirational. “We strive to be a more eco-friendly production, with more focus on ways in which we can visibly show this on screen,” says executive producer Mike Spencer.

Ebay launches Imperfects initiative to sell flawed fashion

“The impact of Love Island and its stars across the UK is undeniable and together we want to inspire the nation to choose pre-loved first when shopping,” added Jemma Tadd, head of fashion at Ebay UK. “Even if this means buying or selling one or two pre-loved items to start with, it’s a step in the right direction.”

Many critics claim that fast fashion is an addiction, which has been fuelled by advertising on shows like Love Island. With astronomical sales growth and valuations – Chinese fast fashion giant Shein recently was valued at $100 billion – has come accusations of over-consumption and exploitation in the supply chain, as was the case for UK retailer Boohoo in 2020.

17/05/2022

Megan Fox has a strong affinity for body-con silhouettes, s*xy slits, and dresses that make you do a double-take (remember her “naked” Mugler dress at the 2021 VMAs?). But this is nothing new; she’s been a red-carpet siren for well over a decade.

Fox, who turned 36 yesterday, has been acting since she was a teenager, but she was thrust into the Hollywood spotlight when she landed a leading role in 2007’s Transformers. Looking back on her fashion choices during this era, it’s clear that Fox’s signature vampy aesthetic has always been alive and well. For the Transformers 2 premiere in 2009, for instance, she opted for a slinky, one-shouldered Roberto Cavalli gown that had a circular cutout at the hips. That same year, her one-shouldered Donna Karan gown with elegant draping also packed a punch.

14/05/2022

Phoebe Dynevor is a bonafide Louis Vuitton woman. The actor, who skyrocketed to fame in Bridgerton, wore Nicolas Ghesquière’s designs to the Met Gala, the Prince’s Trust Gala, and the 2021 BAFTAs (her first major red carpet appearance). Needless to say, she was front row at the French house’s cruise 2023 show yesterday at the Brutalist, Louis Kahn-designed Salk Institute in La Jolla, California. For the occasion, she wore more casual LV fare than we’ve seen her in before: a rugby-style mini dress and knee-high camel coloured boots. The easy, je ne sais quoi pairing suggested she could have just rolled out of bed, thrown on a paramour’s sweater with a pair of boots, and headed over to the Institute to take in Louis Vuitton’s latest goddess-inspired designs.

But, of course, that was not her getting ready process. It was even more effortlessly chic. Dynevor made friends with some chickens on the property of the hotel she was staying in before hanging out by the pool and eating some healthy fuel. Then it was time to get glam. Dynevor wore her hair in easy waves and kept her make-up clean and glowing. Of the collection she said, “a stunning setting for a beautiful collection. Congratulations Nicolas.” Then it was time for a “post show cocktail… or seven…”

Below, see how Dynevor got ready for the Louis Vuitton cruise show.

02/05/2022

Kate Moss might not be the most fearless fashion plate at the Met Gala, but when the annual themes become absent from memory and the boldest looks are relegated to meme territory, it’s Kate’s classic dresses that live on.

Famously not concerned with poring over the theme, Kate’s ballgowns – or rather minidresses – put the emphasis squarely on looking sleek and honouring the work of her designer friends. At the hand of Marc Jacobs, she’s a dancefloor diva. With Stella McCartney by her side, it’s all drama darling! And on Anthony Vaccarello’s watch, it’s s*x appeal all the way. Who cares about the dress code when you’re smouldering in front of the paparazzi?

Here, nine times Kate Moss aced the Met Gala red carpet simply by being Kate: quietly enigmatic, endlessly stylish and never anything but effortless.

https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/kate-moss-met-gala

26/04/2022

Her red-carpet back catalogue is brimming with Valentino couture, but actually Anne Hathaway would have preferred to be in breezy linen trousers all this time. The star has declared her support for the aesthetic currently sweeping TikTok, sharing a photo of herself clad in shades of cream with the caption, “May this moment never end.”

If you’re still catching up, allow Lex Nicoleta – TikTok creator and key proponent of the trend – to enlighten you. “If you love Nancy Meyers movies, coastal vibes, recipes and cooking, Ina Garten, cosy interiors and more, there’s a good chance you might be a coastal grandmother,” she explains in a video that’s since been reposted by Diane Keaton, whose character in the 2003 film Something’s Gotta Give (Erica Barry wafted around the kitchen of her Hamptons beach house in chinos and lightweight knits that matched the bleached out decor), is the movement’s ultimate muse.

https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/anne-hathaway-coastal-grandmother

18/04/2022

Save for one fashion faux pas in Notting Hill when Anna Scott stands in front of Will Thacker asking him to love her wearing a pair of flip flops, Julia Roberts’s character nails the lo-fi ’90s style that is enjoying a comeback. Despite being a Hollywood movie star, Scott lives in Vans Old Skool sneakers, leather jackets and berets. She’s more off-duty model (Bella Hadid, anyone?) than blockbuster film actor, who’s famously been on a diet every day since she was 19.
https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/julia-roberts-notting-hill-style

14/04/2022

Emma Corrin first rocketed to fame with her astonishing, Golden Globe-winning performance as Princess Diana in The Crown in the winter of 2020. Lockdowns around the world meant there was nary a red carpet to be found – but that didn’t prove to be a challenge for Corrin or her stylist Harry Lambert. The pair of mad sartorial geniuses whizzed up an endless carousel of brilliant, fashion-forward looks that kept everyone on their toes, even when most of the appearances were being made through a laptop screen.

Since then, Corrin has established herself as a true style renegade, with a particularly keen eye for avant-garde looks from the likes of Schiaparelli, Prada and JW Anderson. She’s also become a recurring star of Miu Miu’s campaigns, and has made plenty of showstopping appearances on IRL red carpets, whether the swimming cap chic of her 2021 Emmys look or her look at the BIFA Awards last year by emerging designer Marco Ribeiro. To attend the Olivier Awards in London, however – where Corrin was nominated for her performance in the play Anna X – she and Lambert clearly decided to pull out all the stops.

Corrin’s dress was, naturally, straight off the runway. A piece from Jonathan Anderson’s autumn/winter 2022 collection for Loewe – a stand-out from Paris Fashion Week in February for its delightfully bonkers riffs on the history of surrealism across art and fashion – it featured one of Anderson’s most playful new motifs, the balloon. (Here, that came printed across a mesh slip dress in shades of tan.) The most arresting detail, though, sat a little higher up, with a pair of deflated balloons cast as a kind of breastplate.

At first glance, it felt like a nod to armour, pairing perfectly with Corrin’s newly bleached hair and its cropped, Joan of Arc-style fringe, as well as the sculptural jewellery she wore from Cartier’s Trinity for Chitose Abe collection. But on closer inspection, it revealed itself as a nod to something a little tongue-in-cheek – taking the unsavoury metaphor of breasts as balloons and turning it into something so knowingly silly it could be straight out of a John Waters film. As if to confirm the look’s subversive, campy sensibility, Lambert captioned his post of Corrin on Instagram: “This one is for the gays!”

https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/emma-corrin-loewe-balloon-dress-olivier-awards

13/04/2022

ashion has been rallying together in support of Ukraine, with emerging talent platform 1Granary – founded by Ukrainian creative Olya Kuryshchuk – publishing an open letter in March calling for the industry to unite against the war taking place in the eastern European country.

Major brands like Balenciaga and its parent company Kering were among the first to make public statements calling for peace on their Instagram accounts, and to pledge “a significant donation” to the UNHCR, the United Nations Refugees Agency. LVMH also announced that it’s donating €5 million (about £4,150) to the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC), while Erdem said that it would donate all profits from its flagship store and website from the first weekend of March to the British Red Cross’s Ukraine Crisis Appeal. Burberry also said it is donating to the British Red Cross, as well as Save The Children and UNICEF.

Meanwhile, Budapest-based brand Nanushka is partnering with the Hungarian Charity Service of the Order of Malta to help provide accommodation, food, clothing and transport for Ukrainian refugees. Ganni pledged to donate 100,000 DKK (£11,200) to the Danish Refugee Council, which is working on the ground in Ukraine.

Smaller brands from the fashion, art, and interiors worlds are doing their part to support, too, with a series of charity raffles and auctions taking place online. Below, see 20 independent labels that have been supporting the on-going humanitarian efforts in Ukraine and its neighbouring countries.

Sleeper
Ukrainian brand Sleeper is donating proceeds from all its website sales during the month of April to Ohmatdyt, the largest children’s hospital in Ukraine. The Kyiv-based hospital is providing urgent medical care to children from all regions of Ukraine.

Bay Garnett and Friends
Stylist Bay Garnett is holding a designer and vintage sale in Notting Hill on 23 April, to raise money for Oxfam’s Emergency Relief Fund. Among the famous names to have donated pieces are Victoria Beckham, Kate Moss and Stella McCartney.

Clothes For Progress X Souvenir Official
Charity resale platform Clothes For Progress has partnered with Souvenir Official to launch a “Sunflowers For Ukraine” capsule collection featuring seven overprinted garments. All proceeds will go to Black Women for Black Lives and Bridges Over Borders to help BIPOC, LGBTQ+, and other marginalised people fleeing Ukraine.

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Natasha Zinko
London-based Ukrainian designer Natasha Zinko has launched an Aid For Ukraine fundraiser to buy medicines for those currently on the ground in Ukraine, working directly with the Ukrainian Red Cross to do so.
https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/independent-brands-fundraising-ukraine

12/04/2022

The latest report from the Intergovernmental Panel On Climate Change (IPCC), published last week, makes for bleak reading. Scientists have warned that we need to reach peak greenhouse gas emissions by 2025 at the latest to stand a chance of keeping global warming to 1.5C compared to pre-industrial levels and to avoid catastrophic effects worldwide.

While the 2,913-page report may seem far removed from the world of fashion, it’s not something that can be ignored – particularly as the industry is currently responsible for between four and 10 per cent of all greenhouse gas emissions globally. “The report made it clear in no uncertain terms that immediate action is needed,” Maxine Bédat, executive director of the New Standard Institute, tells Vogue.

Despite a flurry of climate commitments from brands in recent years, a 2020 report by McKinsey and Global Fashion Agenda found that fashion’s greenhouse gas emissions are actually set to rise to around 2.7 billion tonnes a year by 2030 if no further measures are taken. Even if fashion continues to adopt decarbonisation initiatives at the current pace, emissions would still remain about the same – double the levels needed to keep to the Paris Agreement target of limiting warming to 1.5C.

While the United Nations Fashion Industry Charter For Climate Action did include a more ambitious goal at Cop26 to cut absolute emissions by 50 per cent by 2030, it remains a huge challenge for the industry at large, particularly given that the majority of fashion’s emissions are produced in the supply chain. “What we identified was essentially that about 60 per cent of the efforts that are needed to get [fashion] in line with the 1.5C [pathway] is upstream,” Peder Michael Pruzan-Jorgensen, interim chief impact officer at Global Fashion Agenda, explains. “We’re looking at transitioning to 100 per cent renewables and also increasing energy efficiency across the board.”

The new UN agreement does reference the need to phase out coal from owned and supplier factories, but campaign groups such as Stand.earth have criticised the fact that it does not commit to moving to 100 per cent renewable energy across the supply chain. A recent report from Fashion For Good and the Apparel Impact Institute, meanwhile, found that there’s an enormous funding gap of $1 trillion in order to decarbonise the industry by 2050.

“What needs to happen is much more significant investment from fashion brands to support suppliers in shifting their operations away from fossil fuels to renewable energy,” Muhannad Malas, senior climate campaigner at Stand.earth, says. “We also need to be paying attention to whether fashion brands are advocating [for] governments and policymakers in countries where their supply chain is concentrated to make or develop policies that ensure rapid deployment and use of renewable energy in the grid, as opposed to the extension of coal.”

https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/fashion-ipcc-report

11/04/2022

Ancient Greek Sandals co-founder Christina Martini is sitting at her desk facing the Ionian sea when we speak. Behind her at her Corfu base is a floor-to-ceiling shelving unit stacked full of curiosities, from books on ancient mythology to prototypes of her brand’s signature winged sandals. In the summer, it’s difficult to work because the designer can see people swimming in the ocean, so she, in turn, goes and joins them when her children finish school. If this sounds achingly idyllic, it took Christina a while to settle into island life.

A former shoe designer at Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton, Martini uprooted her vibrant life in Paris when she met her business partner Nikolas Minoglou through a mutual friend over a decade ago. They had a lightbulb moment: to create sandals using classic Mediterranean craftsmanship techniques they had not seen in the fashion capitals. “It was either expensive Prada sandals or cheap versions,” Christina explains of the gap in the market they saw for handmade leather shoes made locally. She bid the trend cycle farewell and set up shop in Greece, using her expertise in quality leather finishings and commercial product development to build a brand from the ground up.

Net-a-porter.com, Colette and Matchesfashion.com quickly bought into a brand that was equal parts romantic and practical. Inspired by ancient Greek myths about the gods and goddesses’ sandals enriched with super powers, the label’s shoes all feature golden wings after Hermes, who famously had a flying pair of gladiators. Ancient Greek Sandals’s construction is a special kind of magic you don’t see often. The upper folds into the insole – a raw technique that requires minimal stitching and no lining. There is nowhere to hide with these supple leather flats, and thus they have to be as perfect as Hermes himself would have liked.

Christina, an archeology obsessive who originally wanted to unearth Greek secrets for a living, is a dreamer always conjuring up the next thing. In lockdown, she considered making slippers, but instead decided to bring a much-needed slice of Greek life to the rest of us via a collection of traditional island homeware. Think: olive oil holders and ouzo containers that sing of long lunches and woven baskets to throw sandy beach towels in.

Originally, the plan was to use leather off-cuts, but precious wine bottle cases require thicker leather that lasts forever. Martini found a man in Athens to help make prototypes – as is often the way in the Greek fashion community – and the finished products will be available to shop at a sunny Chiltern Street pop-up this summer. The off-cuts? They’re already a line of imperfectly perfect upcycled shoes in natural colours, which Martini, a perfectionist at heart, has learned to love.
https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/ancient-greek-sandals

Lullaby F

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