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Auto Scene, Dunkirk (2025)

23/11/2025

Knowledge is powerful!!!

🚗⚡ Fuel Pressure Sensor (FPS) Voltages

The FPS sensor measures the pressure in the fuel rail and sends a voltage signal to the ECU. This signal changes according to engine demand: low at idle and higher when accelerating or under load. If the voltage is out of range, the engine will start running with an incorrect mixture, misfire, or experience a loss of power.

📉 Idle Voltage
When the engine is idling, the voltage is usually low because the pressure is not at its maximum.

⚡ Voltage on Demand
When accelerating, the pressure increases, and the voltage rises proportionally according to the engine's needs.

⛽ Low Rail Pressure
If the voltage never rises, it may indicate a weak fuel pump, a clogged filter, or internal leaks.

📊 Digital Reference Signal
Values typically range from 0.5V to 1.5V, depending on the system design and conditions.

👉 The correct procedure is:
• Compare the actual values with the manufacturer's specifications.

• Check the sensor's connectors and wiring.

• Test the pressure with a gauge if there are any doubts.

• Scan for starting problems, smoke, or loss of power.

💡 Addressing the FPS sensor prevents misdiagnosis, high fuel consumption, and damage to the fuel injection system.

22/11/2025

Check this out!!!

The broadband oxygen sensor uses a plane zirconia element with internal pumping and measuring cameras that allow you to accurately read the air-fuel relationship at a much wider range than a conventional narrowband sensor. Its design integrates a quick-response ceramic heater that brings the sensor to operating temperature in seconds, ensuring stable measuring even in variable charge conditions. Thanks to its pumping cell, the Engine Control Module (ECU) regulates an internal current to maintain a specific level of oxygen inside the chamber, and the magnitude of that current is directly representing the real mixture in real time.
In the observed installation, the sensor is located before the catalyst, which is where a broadband sensor must work to directly monitor the mixture and allow for precise injection and ignition adjustments. This type of sensor is extremely sensitive to exhaust leaks, oil, lead or silicone contamination, and nearby welds that can overheat it, so its operation depends on a clean, airtight and correctly oriented assembly. A misreading of this sensor immediately impacts the blending strategy, being able to generate poor, rich blend, increased consumption and activation of codes such as P2195, P2196, or P0171-P0172.

22/11/2025

Check this out!!!

Automotive sensor classification based on their function within the engine and control system.

Starting with temperature sensors:

• Coolant (ECT): tells the ECU how hot the engine is to adjust the fuel mixture and ignition timing. When it malfunctions, fuel consumption increases, the cooling fan behaves erratically, and the check engine light may illuminate.

• Oil: monitors the lubricant temperature; if it reads incorrectly, it can activate protection modes and reduce performance.

• Air (MAF): measures the intake air to calculate the exact fuel mixture. If it is dirty or damaged, you will notice jerking, rough running, and a strong smell of gasoline.

Next, pressure sensors:

• Oil: confirms that the engine has the correct pressure to prevent running dry. If the pressure drops or the sensor fails, you will see an oil pressure warning light and hear metallic noises.

• Fuel: monitors the pressure in the fuel rail/pump; malfunctions here result in power loss and hard starting. • Intake (MAP): In the intake system, the MAP sensor helps the ECU determine how much air is entering to maintain the correct air-fuel mixture.

Then, by position:

• Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP): Determines the valve opening phase; errors cause jerking and stalling.

• Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP): Marks the exact point of each combustion; if it fails, the engine won't even start.

• Throttle Position Sensor (TPS): Throttle position sensor/throttle body; failures cause delayed acceleration or limp mode.

And then there are the emissions sensors:

• NOx: Controls nitrogen oxide emissions, crucial in modern engines with after-treatment systems; failures increase emissions and can limit power.

• Oxygen Sensor (Lambda Sensor): Corrects the air/fuel mixture in real time; when it fails, fuel consumption increases and there's a strong smell of raw gasoline.

21/11/2025

Very informative article!!

The exhaust system is not just a pipe for expelling gases; it's a high-tech emission control system managed by the car's computer. The three key components shown in the image are vital for fuel efficiency and emission reduction:
1. Oxygen Sensor #1 (Upstream)
Location and Function: Located before the catalytic converter (top). Its primary job is to measure the amount of oxygen remaining in the exhaust gases before they are processed.
Importance: The Engine Control Unit (ECU) uses this sensor's readings to make real-time adjustments to the Air-Fuel Ratio. A faulty upstream sensor leads to poor engine performance and significant increases in fuel consumption.
2. Catalytic Converter
Function: The component responsible for cleaning harmful gases. It contains precious metals (like platinum and rhodium) that act as catalysts to convert dangerous pollutants (like carbon monoxide and unburned hydrocarbons) into less harmful compounds.
Failure Symptoms: A clogged converter causes severe engine back pressure and power loss, while a failed converter increases emissions and triggers the Check Engine Light.
3. Oxygen Sensor #2 (Downstream)
Location and Function: Located after the catalytic converter (bottom). Its job is to measure the oxygen content in the gases after they have passed through the converter.
Importance: The ECU compares the readings of Sensor #1 and Sensor #2. If the readings are too similar, it indicates the catalytic converter is not working efficiently, which typically triggers a P0420 trouble code (low converter efficiency).
Diagnostic Tip: When the Check Engine light illuminates due to converter inefficiency, the root cause is often upstream issues (like a misfire or a faulty upstream sensor) that allowed the converter to overheat and fail.

21/11/2025

Very important!!!

🚗💨Cold start mistakes that affect the engine from the first minute.

When the engine is cold, the oil hasn't fully circulated yet, and the internal parts are working almost dry. If mistakes are made in those first few seconds, wear is multiplied, and the engine's lifespan is reduced from the start.

⚙️Accelerating when starting:
Forcing the engine as soon as it starts causes excessive friction before the oil reaches all components.

🛢️Using the wrong oil:
An oil that is too thick or has an incorrect viscosity takes longer to lubricate when the engine is cold.

🔧Ignoring prior maintenance:
Dirty filters, worn spark plugs, or unchecked components make starting more difficult and less efficient.

🔋Demanding immediate charging:
Immediately turning on air conditioning, lights, audio, or demanding a load on the battery increases the load when the engine is not yet stable.

🛞Demanding immediate load (steering or hydraulic systems)
Moving the steering wheel to the limit or demanding hydraulic pressure when cold increases the effort when there is not yet complete lubrication.

✅The correct procedure is:
• Start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds without accelerating.
• Use the oil with the recommended viscosity.
• Keep filters, spark plugs, and general maintenance up to date.
• Activate electrical loads and auxiliary systems only when the engine is idling smoothly.

💡Pro tip:
In cold climates, use oil with the correct viscosity to improve lubrication from the very first second and reduce internal wear.

21/11/2025

Check this out!!!

🚗⚙️ The Myth of Always Driving on Reserve

For years, it's been said that driving with low fuel destroys the fuel pump, and while there's some logic to it, the reality is more technical than it seems.

🔴 MYTH (Driving on reserve destroys the pump):
1️⃣ With low fuel, the pump "overheats" because it's not fully covered.

2️⃣ All the sediment in the tank goes directly into the system and clogs it.

3️⃣ Every time you drive with low fuel, the pump is immediately damaged.

🟢 REALITY (What actually happens):
1️⃣ The pump continues to function correctly as long as there's enough fuel around it; it's not damaged by occasionally driving on reserve.

2️⃣ The fuel filter prevents impurities from reaching the pump or the engine.

3️⃣ The real risk lies in frequently running the tank empty, as this puts strain on the pump and increases the buildup of deposits.

4️⃣ Keeping the tank at least ¼ full of gas ensures lubrication, stable pressure, and optimal system temperature.

👉 Conclusion: Driving on empty occasionally won't destroy your pump, but making it a habit will reduce its lifespan.

💡 Pro tip: Don't wait until you're on empty. Fill your tank before the quarter tank and avoid costly fuel system repairs.

20/11/2025

Your better read!!!

🚘💨 Thinking about removing your car's catalytic converter? Before you do, read this…

Friends, I want to share something I've been hearing a lot lately: that removing the catalytic converter "improves performance" or makes the car "drive better." But is it really a good idea?

👉 What is the catalytic converter for?

The catalytic converter isn't there for no reason. It's responsible for reducing the toxic gases that come out of the exhaust. In other words, it converts harmful gases into something less polluting before they reach the air we breathe.

👉 What happens if I remove it?

⚠️ You'll pollute much more. The gases go directly into the air, unfiltered, and that ends up damaging the environment and our health.

⚠️ In many places, driving without a catalytic converter is illegal. If you get caught or fail the emissions test, be prepared for a fine or having your registration revoked.

⚠️ The gases released without a catalytic converter are extremely harmful to people, especially children and those with respiratory problems.

⚠️ At first, you might think the car sounds louder or faster (just from the noise), but over time, problems will start: sensor malfunctions, the check engine light will come on, and the engine may even perform worse.

⚠️ And be aware: a car without a catalytic converter is worth less. If you ever want to sell it, the buyer will likely try to haggle or won't even buy it.

💡 My advice:

If the catalytic converter is no longer working, it's best to replace it with a new one or one that actually functions properly. This way, you help the environment, avoid legal issues, and your car will continue to run as it should.

20/11/2025

See this!!!

Today, in most modern engines, idle speed control is integrated and electronically managed by the engine control unit (ECU) via a DC motor or an internal electronic module in the throttle body. The mechanical idle screw is almost obsolete: now the ECU decides how much opening the engine needs to maintain a stable 800–900 rpm, as we've studied in our Auto Advance courses.

The ECU regulates this airflow using two key components: the IAC valve and the TPS sensor. The IAC acts as an electronically controlled bypass that allows air to pass around the throttle plate when it's closed. If the engine is cold, if there's an electrical load (AC, lights), or if the rpm drops, the ECU adjusts the IAC to allow more air and prevent the engine from stalling. Conversely, when the rpm gets too high, the computer closes the IAC to reduce airflow and stabilize the idle speed.

The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) tells the ECU exactly where the throttle is positioned, even when it's closed. This precision is vital: if the TPS reports the position incorrectly, the ECU interprets this as the driver accelerating or an incomplete closure, disrupting the idle speed control. Therefore, in a healthy system, the TPS and IAC (Idle Air Control) valves work in sync: one reports the position, the other regulates the air, and the computer completes the cycle, maintaining a clean, stable, and fluctuating idle.

20/11/2025

NOT ANYMORE!!!

🚗🌡️ Removing the thermostat improves your car's temperature

Many people think that removing the thermostat will make the engine run cooler and prevent overheating, but the reality is that this component is essential for maintaining an optimal and stable temperature.

🔴 MYTH (Removing the thermostat prevents overheating):
1️⃣ It's believed that without a thermostat, the engine coolant will circulate better.

2️⃣ Some think that this makes the system "cool down" faster.

3️⃣ Others remove it believing that the engine will perform better without restrictions.

🟢 REALITY (What actually happens):
1️⃣ Without a thermostat, the engine always runs cool, which increases internal wear.

2️⃣ Combustion becomes inefficient and fuel consumption increases.

3️⃣ The system's sensors detect an incorrect temperature and alter the air-fuel mixture.

4️⃣ The thermostat regulates the ideal temperature so the engine runs smoothly and with proper lubrication.

👉 Pro tip: Don't remove the thermostat; replace it if it fails. It's an inexpensive part that protects the heart of your engine and maintains its optimal performance.

20/11/2025

Busted!!!

Is your car not performing like it used to? The problem could be with the fuel pump, and it often goes unnoticed. Here are some signs you should pay attention to:

1. The engine is slow to start or won't start at all.

2. It loses power when accelerating, especially on inclines.

3. The idle is unstable: the car vibrates or stalls when stopped.

4. You hear unusual noises, like a constant whirring sound from the tank.

5. The "Check Engine" light comes on with codes related to fuel pressure.

To properly diagnose the problem, you can use several tools:

• An OBD-II scanner, which often displays codes like P0087.

• A fuel pressure gauge, to compare with the manufacturer's specifications.

• A multimeter, to check voltage and continuity.

• A visual inspection, including the filter, fuses, relay, and connections.

Among the most frequent causes of a failure are a clogged filter, the use of low quality gasoline, damage to the relay or fuses, and normal wear and tear of the pump due to mileage.

19/11/2025

Seal it up!!!

Is your engine revving on its own and using more gas than usual? You might have a vacuum leak. 🚘👇

The air intake system in an engine is designed to precisely measure the amount of air entering it. This allows the vehicle's computer (ECU) to calculate the correct air-fuel mixture. But when there's a vacuum leak, that balance is disrupted.

What is a vacuum leak?

A vacuum leak occurs when air enters the engine through an uncontrolled opening, such as cracks or breaks in the vacuum hoses or intake system gaskets. This air isn't measured by the vehicle's sensors, causing the ECU to create an incorrect mixture (more air, less measured fuel). As a result, the engine revs for no apparent reason, and fuel consumption skyrockets as the system tries to compensate.

Common symptoms of a vacuum leak:

• Unstable idle (the engine vibrates or revs on its own when in neutral).

• High fuel consumption.
• Lack of power or hesitation when accelerating.

• Strange sucking noises from the engine.

• "Check Engine" light illuminated.

Where do these leaks originate?

The most common are found in:

• Cracked or broken vacuum hoses.

• Worn intake manifold gaskets.

• Damaged PCV (crankcase ventilation) valve.

• Loose or improperly connected fittings.

How to fix a vacuum leak?

1. Visual inspection: Check all hoses connected to the intake system. Look for cracks, leaks, or loose connections.

2. Spray test (optional): With the engine running, you can lightly spray carburetor cleaner around the hoses and fittings. If the engine sounds different or revs up, there is a leak.

3. Replace damaged parts: Replace cracked hoses, tighten connections, or replace gaskets if necessary. 4. OBD2 Scanner: Some error codes related to lean mixture or idling problems may indicate a leak.

Final Tip: Although it seems like a minor issue, a vacuum leak can lead to anything from performance issues to long-term damage if left unattended. It's always best to check it promptly.

19/11/2025

Busted!!!

When an engine starts losing power for no apparent reason, vibrates at idle, or consumes more fuel than expected, there's almost always a silent culprit: a dirty VVT actuator blocking oil flow. This blockage causes the engine to respond poorly, produce metallic noises, and, in many cases, trigger the check engine light.

Dirt in the actuator prevents the system from correctly adjusting valve timing, leading to hesitation, rough combustion, and, if left untreated, wear on the camshaft or even the timing chain. It's a common problem that begins with mild symptoms but can end in more costly damage.

But what exactly is the VVT? It's an actuator responsible for modifying the opening and closing times of the valves according to engine load. When it's dirty, the best solution is to remove it and clean it thoroughly, preferably with ultrasound or a penetrating lubricant that removes deposits without damaging its internal components.

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