27/07/2026
IS IT TIME TO CALL IT A DAY?
ILFRACOMBE → BIDEFORD
After a few days apart, I was reunited with my little co-pilot.
A huge thank you to my friend Sarah for looking after Taco while I tackled Exmoor.
Honestly…
I’m so glad she wasn’t with me for those climbs.
With Taco safely back aboard, we rolled out of Ilfracombe.
Well…
First we rolled down the hill from my accommodation…
Only to immediately face the rather irritating task of climbing all the way back out of Ilfracombe again! A five-kilometre climb before the day had really begun.
Thankfully, after the initial 15km the riding became much kinder.
We joined the route of the former Devon & Somerset Railway, much of which now forms part of the Devon Link and later the Tarka Trail. Where steam trains once carried passengers and goods across North Devon, cyclists and walkers now enjoy one of the country’s finest traffic-free routes.
It made for a welcome change after Exmoor.
Our first stop came in Chivenor, home to Royal Marines Base Chivenor. Originally opened as an RAF airfield during the Second World War, it is now one of the principal bases of the Royal Marines and plays an important role in training and supporting Commando units.
Coffee stop!
From there we joined the Tarka Trail, following the Taw Estuary towards Barnstaple.
The trail, inspired by Henry Williamson’s novel Tarka the Otter, follows the route of former railway lines and offers mile after mile of easy riding through some of North Devon’s most beautiful scenery.
As we circled the estuary, I couldn’t help noticing the old ships resting quietly on the mudflats.
One in particular caught my eye…
Les Vagabonde des mers, or the “Vagabond of the Seas.”
Like so many old wrecks left to the tides, she’s become part of the estuary itself, slowly being reclaimed by nature. Although I did spot a notice of wreck removal on a nearby post.
After Barnstaple, however, the ride became a little harder.
Not because of the hills…
But because of a relentless westerly headwind that seemed determined to make every pedal stroke count. Like riding through glue.
We continued through Instow, where the beautifully restored old railway station still stands as a reminder of the days when trains ran all the way along this stretch of coastline.
Across the estuary sat Appledore, its colourful houses climbing the hillside above the water.
Another place to add to the ever-growing list of places I’d love to return to one day.
Then…
My heart sank.
Arriving in Bideford, I casually checked my host’s address.
Only then did I realise…
I’d ridden past their village nearly an hour earlier.
There was absolutely no chance I was turning back.
After grabbing a sandwich while I figured out my next move, I went in search of someone willing to look after the trike for a couple of nights.
Thankfully, the wonderful team at Tidal & Trail Bike Hire came to the rescue, kindly agreeing to store the trike while my host drove over to collect me.
Crisis…
Averted.
If I’m honest, though, I think the last few weeks are catching up with me.
We’ve ridden hard since mid April from all the way up in Stornoway and finished off Scotland, Northern Ireland, North West England and Wales…it’s truly amazing really but…
I’m exhausted.
I’m making silly mistakes.
I’m feeling run down.
The chest is becoming a bit wheezy again.
And I know I need a proper break soon.
The challenge is finding somewhere I can stop for a 2-4 weeks, maybe pick up some work and allow both body and mind to recover before tackling the final stretch of England.
Reach out if you have any ideas of work and stays.
I’m also beginning to wonder whether these daily reels are sustainable.
They take so much time and energy to edit after every day’s riding, and I’m considering switching to a simple daily photo instead.
Whatever I decide…
I’ll keep you all updated.
Thank you for the spike in donations yesterday after my gruelling crossing of Exmoor. It’s not gone unnoticed. Here’s the link again for those with a spare few quid: https://gofund.me/62966fd4b
📊 YESTERDAYS STATS
📏 Distance: 42.0 km
⛰️ Elevation Gain: 450 m
📈 Ascent Density: 10.7 m/km
⚡ Average Speed: 15.2 km/h
⏱️ Moving Time: 2h 45m
🌥️ Conditions: Much cooler, overcast, with a strong westerly headwind after Barnstaple.
Ride difficulty: 🟠 Moderate
The hills were nothing like Exmoor, but the headwind made sure it wasn’t a free ride.