06/08/2025
Skin tone will always be controversial
========================
“Dear Kim, I’m loving the Colour Analysis Course - I’ve watched it three times in the last week! But I do have a question. What about skin colour and complexion? Why isn’t that taken into consideration when assessing the colours? From the course almost 25 years ago that I was telling you about, we were taught to analyse cool and warm from skin colour on the wrist or forearm. You don’t seem to mention it, or am I missing something fundamental?” Prunnhilde
Dear Prunnhilde,
Skin tone is completely arbitrary and for this very reason, skin tone is not included in my approach to colour analysis at all.
Image consultants, make-up artists, manufacturers of foundation and blusher will all disagree until the cows come home about the actual shade of porcelain, ivory, and beige.
Does porcelain skin mean Cool tones?
****************************************
To me, it does. But not to my good friend and image consultant, Svetburga, who is convinced it means Warm.
Try and buy a skin foundation product called Porcelain. You will find that all the top make-up houses have a completely different perspective on what constitutes Porcelain – half of them suit Warm skins, and the other half only work for Cool skins!
Skin tone is completely arbitrary. I rest my case!
Testing for Cool and Warm using the skin colour on the wrist
****************************************************************
In over 40 years, I have only ever met one image consultant who could do that successfully.
In fact, I have yet to come across a single method of identifying skin tone (Warm or Cool) that works 100% of the time for every single client.
So I leave it out and concentrate on what actually works.
But if YOU have a foolproof method of working out whether someone has Cool or Warm skin tones, then you should absolutely include that in your consultations.
Personally, I simply imagine my client in gold jewellery or silver jewellery
++++
To help my client see what I see, I show her, and confirm for myself, using gold and silver drapes, or gold and silver jewellery.
Once I know which one makes her look good (by that, I mean it doesn’t make me squirm), then I know she’s either Warm or Cool.
I don’t spend any longer than that on skin tone.
You don’t need skin tone anyway!
***********************************
No two image consultants will ever agree over skin tone, so you will notice that my approach is to encourage you to look at hair and eyes only.
Working through the tables on pages 13 and 14 in your Colour Analysis Training Manual will always lead you to the right answer, without skin tone ever being mentioned.
In the past, I wasted far too much time working through my ‘system’ when I should have been spending time talking to my client, finding out what she wants, making her feel fabulous and confident.
The only people who are ever interested in our system, our process, and how we come up with our diagnosis, are other image consultants.
And the irony is that, at the end of the day, if I discover (by hook or by crook) that my client has Warm colouring and she then tells me that she wants to wear Cool-toned clothes and jewellery, then I need to stop blethering on about the flippin’ process and her Warm colouring, get out the way, and give her what SHE wants.
All of this, together with hundreds of years of trying to include skin tone as a parameter in the analysis of my client’s colouring and failing miserably, is why my approach leaves skin tone out completely.
Skin tone will always be controversial
***************************************
Controversial means ‘open for someone else to rubbish your diagnosis’.
Focusing on skin tone, or any other parameter of your ‘system’, just takes time away from your real purpose – to make your client look and FEEL wonderful.
Over time, you may discover that skin tone plays a more active role in your diagnoses, but this will only come with lots of experience.
Leave it out for now, until you have mastered the fundamentals of using hair and eye colours. You’ll discover that page 13 in the colour analysis course works every time!
Over time, you may discover, like me, that you never want to re-introduce it, but I do not run a franchise - this is your business, so you can choose.
Stuff the system. Put the client first!
Marie, one of my trainees, commented - I love that you don’t mess with skin tone. I had a very bossy red tell a group of ladies about their skin tone based on vein color on their forearms. I smiled and said, “Thanks for sharing, as an industry we’ve moved on from that approach, because it doesn’t work for everyone.” Before finding Kim, I would have been frustrated by the interruption. I’m sure it would have sidelined me for the event.
Marie, what a kind reply you gave. I’d have been far less respectful – being a bossy Red myself. The older I get, the more I detest being told what to do, especially when it comes to colour analysis.
There are no chuffin’ rules!
****************************
STUFF THE SYSTEM! PUT THE CLIENT FIRST!