Swad, Sargam aur Safar

09/10/2025

Post 3: Divine Grace at Kedarnath - Sacred Moments That Changed Us

Evening Shringar Darshan - Kedarnath in Full Glory
After our challenging 11-hour trek, we were blessed to witness the evening Shringar Darshan at Kedarnath temple - Lord Shiva in his most magnificent form. The deity was adorned with fresh flowers, silk garments, and precious ornaments, radiating divine energy against the backdrop of snow-capped peaks. This wasn't just darshan; this was Kedarnath in its full glory, welcoming tired pilgrims with divine splendor.

The evening aarti was mesmerizing. Temple bells echoed through valleys, oil lamps flickered against the pristine Himalayan backdrop, and "Om Namah Shivaya" resonated through our beings. Our exhaustion transformed into pure spiritual ecstasy - every step of the challenging trek felt worthwhile.

Mythology Corner: Here, the Pandavas sought Lord Shiva's forgiveness after the Kurukshetra war. Shiva, disguised as a bull, was recognized by Bhima. The bull disappeared, leaving behind the sacred hump that became the eternal lingam.

1:30 AM Rudrabhishek - The Ultimate Blessing
Thanks to Panditji Shukla's incredible efforts, we received permission for the rare inner sanctum Rudrabhishek. In pre-dawn darkness, with only a handful of devotees present, we witnessed ancient rituals. Panditji patiently explained each step - the significance of bilva leaves, the meaning behind mantras, the reason for specific offerings. When we touched our foreheads to the sacred shrine itself, the emotion was overwhelming. Here, where Lord Shiva resides as the eternal lingam, we experienced connection that transcended the physical trek.

Morning & Sacred Spaces: The morning darshan with pristine snow-clad Himalayas as backdrop felt otherworldly - Lord Shiva enthroned in nature's grandest temple. We visited Bheem Shila, the massive rock that sheltered devotees during 2013 floods, and paid respects at Shankaracharya's peaceful samadhi behind the temple.
Divine Coincidence: At the temple's puja shop, we met the owner who incredibly lived next door to our group member in Pune! This seemed to confirm our journey was blessed from the beginning.
Our coordinated blue bottoms and white kurtas created unity that other pilgrims commented on appreciatively.

Mountain Hospitality: GMVN's hot puris, suji halwa, and dal-rice tasted heavenly after our trek. Saraswati Dhaba's soft parathas and flavorful rajma made us return twice!

The mountains tested us thoroughly, but rewarded us with grace beyond imagination.

28/09/2025

Post 2: The Sacred Trek to Kedarnath: Mind, Body, Soul Transformation

Day 3: When Mountains Strip Away Your Ego
Our journey from Rishikesh to Guptkashi wound through 225km of stunning landscapes - from lush valleys to rugged mountains. But the real transformation began at Dhara Devi Temple, where we sought blessings before attempting the Kedarnath trek. The ashirwaad we received from Maa Dhara Devi became our protective kavach (armor) throughout the journey.
At Guptkashi's Himalayan Orchid, thoughtful staff served us tea at 3 AM and packed fresh poha - small gestures that reinforced the lovely hospitality of people from Devbhumi.
The Trek: 6,500 to 11,755 feet
We travelled from Sonprayag to Gaurikund via local taxi, and then began the real test - 16km to Kedarnath. The first 5km filled us with joy: cascading waterfalls, lush greenery, excited conversations. We were still the confident urban folks who'd started from Pune, perhaps a bit proud of our four months of preparation.
Then Reality Hit: As altitude increased, Kedarnath Baba began testing us. Every step stripped away our ego, pride, and urban armor. "Ghodewala! Ghodewala!" echoed through valleys as horse riders and palanquin bearers offered easy escapes. Many pilgrims in their 30s-40s took these options. For our group, it became a test of faith vs. convenience.
Collective Faith in Action: When altitude affected someone, we instinctively formed a support system. Water bottles, glucose packets, and Fast&Up tablets became communal property. Someone always stayed back to walk with struggling members. Special mention to Ajit, whose caring spirit became our backbone - managing mammoth luggage, providing medicines, ensuring comfort during the 11-hour journey. His selfless attention exemplified the true spirit of pilgrimage.
Mountain Lessons: At 11,000+ feet, surrounded by ancient peaks, we learned profound humility. How tiny we are before the Himalayas, God, and nature! The mountains stripped away every pretense, every ego-driven thought. Our midway Maggi break became a celebration - never had instant noodles tasted so divine!
For Mona, watching her 50th birthday wish unfold with such care and camaraderie was perhaps the best gift she could have asked for. The mountains humbled us, but our collective faith lifted us higher.

Next: The divine darshan awaited at Kedarnath

23/09/2025

The Sacred Mountain: Mind,Body, Soul Awakening:A Journey of Faith, Food & Friendship

Post 1: Planning & The Sacred Beginning (Pune to Kedarnath)
The Dream Takes Shape

Every great journey begins with a dream, but ours had a very special beginning. Our group of 5 couples has a beautiful tradition - whenever one of us turns 50, they get to choose our next travel destination. This time, it was Mona's turn to celebrate the golden milestone, and being both an ardent Shiva devotee and an avid trekker, her choice was crystal clear: Kedarnath-Badrinath.
What started as Mona's birthday wish soon transformed into a meticulously planned 8-day spiritual odyssey through the majestic Himalayas. Ten friends, one dream, and the perfect blend of celebration and spirituality.
The Planning Phase: Our preparation began 4 months in advance - not just booking accommodations and transport, but preparing our bodies and minds for what lay ahead. Weekend after weekend, we undertook long walks, building endurance and strengthening our resolve. These training sessions weren't just physical preparation; they became bonding exercises where we shared our spiritual expectations and supported each other's fitness goals.
The Reality Check: However, we must be honest - some of us fell a little short in our actual preparation despite the best intentions. Life's demands, work pressures, and the comfort of knowing we had "planned to prepare" sometimes took precedence over the actual physical training. This became evident during the trek, where those who had been more consistent with their preparation found the journey more manageable than those who had been less disciplined.
Lesson for Future Pilgrims: Take physical preparation seriously. The 11-hour trek from 6,500 to 11,755 feet is unforgiving and doesn't care about your intentions - only your actual fitness level. Weekend walks, stair climbing, and cardiovascular conditioning aren't suggestions; they're necessities. We were fortunate that our group's collective spirit and mutual support helped everyone complete the journey, but proper preparation would have made the experience far more enjoyable and less taxing.
However, nature had different plans initially. End-August 2025 brought heavy rainfall to Uttarakhand, causing the Char Dham yatra to be officially stalled till September 5th. Many would have postponed, but our group's determination was unwavering - we decided to carry on with our planned dates after September 5th. Perhaps this was the first lesson we learned: Bhagwan Kedarnathji decides when you visit Him, not you. The timing has to be divinely ordained.
And how beautifully our faith was rewarded! We encountered no bad weather throughout our journey. While roads showed signs of damage from the recent rains, nothing hindered our spiritual quest. The road trip to Kedarnath base itself tested our resilience, and for those who hadn't prepared adequately, it became an early reminder of what lay ahead.

Day 1: From Pune's Pace to Rishikesh's Peace
The early morning AirIndia flight from Pune (7:40 AM) had us in Delhi by 10 AM, and another quick hop brought us to Dehradun by 1 PM. The real journey began with our tempo traveller ride through the winding hills to Rishikesh - the 'Yoga Capital of the World.'

Ganga Aarti at Parmarth Niketan
Before dinner, we witnessed the soul-stirring Ganga Aarti at Parmarth Niketan. As hundreds of diyas floated on the sacred Ganges and the chants of "Om Namah Shivaya" echoed through the valley, we felt the divine energy preparing us for the journey ahead. The aarti wasn't just a ritual - it was our spiritual passport being stamped for the yatra to come. The sight of the river reflecting the golden flames while devotees sang in unison created a moment of pure transcendence.

Evening at Be Monk Cafe, Rishikesh
Post-aarti, we discovered our first culinary gem - Be a Monk cafe. Founded by a passionate Bangalorean who chose the mountains over the city, this little haven served us an extraordinary feast that set the tone for our entire culinary journey:
Garhwali Panch Prayag Thali: A celebration of local flavors with five different preparations representing the five confluences
Roasted Pumpkin Soup: Velvety, warming, perfect for the mountain evening
Grilled Pineapple Chat: An innovative twist that burst with sweet and tangy flavors
Lotus Seed Puffed Bhel: Light, crunchy, and utterly addictive
Walnut Stuffed Siddu: The star of the evening! This traditional Himalayan bread stuffed with locally sourced walnuts was a revelation

Mythology Corner: Rishikesh, where Lord Rama did penance after defeating Ravana, welcomed us with the same purifying energy. The Ganga Aarti felt like receiving Mother Ganga's blessings for our pilgrimage to her source.
Our group's tradition of coordinated dressing began here - we wore tops adorned with Shiva and OM symbols, already feeling connected to the divine energy that would guide us.

06/07/2025

Ashadhi Ekadashi: Maharashtra’s Soulful Pilgrimage of Unity and Devotion

If Ganesh Chaturthi is Maharashtra’s most vibrant and widely known festival, then Ashadhi Ekadashi is its spiritual core—quieter, deeper, and profoundly moving.

Each year, over a million Warkaris embark on a sacred 21-day journey on foot from villages and towns across Maharashtra, bound for Pandharpur, chanting “Vitthal Vitthal, Gyanba Tukaram, Mauli Mauli”. At the heart of this pilgrimage is the Palakhi tradition—ceremonial processions carrying the padukas (sandals) of Sant Dnyaneshwar from Alandi, Sant Tukaram from Dehu, and other revered saints.

But this is far more than a pilgrimage. It’s a 700-year-old Bhakti movement rooted in equality, simplicity, and surrender.

🟡 **Inclusive to the Core:**
Caste, class, gender, and status melt away in the Wari. All are equal—walking, singing, eating, and sleeping side by side. The Warkari movement remains one of India’s most powerful symbols of spiritual democracy.

🎶 A Living Tradition of Poetry and Song:
The soul of this journey is carried through Abhangs—devotional verses sung in chorus as thousands walk together. These verses, composed by saints centuries ago, still echo with relevance, humility, and surrender.

If you’re curious to immerse yourself in this timeless musical tradition,

https://open.spotify.com/playlist/5TNvbeamyoHCLF1H5T65ot?si=ABxmYtibRYmGV-d1oKv9vA&pi=cctFEEFfSM-en

🙏🏼 In an age of noise and speed, the Wari reminds us of the beauty of slowing down, surrendering ego, and walking together—toward something greater than ourselves.

Have you ever experienced the transformative power of collective devotion? Share your thoughts or spiritual journey experiences below.*

13/01/2025

Vasantotsav 2025: A Mesmerizing Blend of Tradition and Modernity

Get ready for an unforgettable musical journey as Vasantotsav 2025 returns to Pune, blending the rich heritage of Indian classical music with the vibrant sounds of contemporary music. Curated by the celebrated vocalist Rahul Deshpande in honor of his legendary grandfather Dr. Vasantrao Deshpande, this festival promises to be a soulful experience for music lovers of all ages.

✨ Day 1 kicks off with electrifying performances by popular Indie bands—Agnee and Thaikudam Bridge bringing a fresh, youthful energy to the stage.

🎵 The festival beautifully weaves together diverse musical traditions with:
• Hindustani Classical by the soulful Sanjeev Abhyankar
• Carnatic Melodies by the dynamic duo Ranjani-Gayatri
• Instrumental Magic by the legendary sitar maestro Shujaat Husain Khan

🌟 The grand finale will be a spellbinding performance by the legendary Hariharan A alongside Rahul Deshpande, promising an evening of pure musical bliss.

From timeless classical ragas to powerful contemporary sounds, Vasantotsav 2025 is a true celebration of music that transcends generations and touches hearts.
Don’t miss this extraordinary musical celebration!

Begin 2025 on a soulful note! Pune’s favorite Vasantotsav is back for its 18th year, ready to fill your January with unforgettable melodies.

Save the date: 17-19 Jan 2025. Don’t miss the musical extravaganza!

13/01/2025

In my previous posts I have covered Baku (Azerbaijan) travel in two parts. Do find my detailed day by day itinerary in this post.

Links for previous posts are in comments section.

08/01/2025

DAY 3: FROM BAKU'S ANCIENT SITES TO GABALA'S PROMISE
Our journey through Azerbaijan's heritage started with Baku's most fascinating sites:
THE FIRE TEMPLE (ATESHGAH)An ancient sanctuary where continuously burning natural gas flames tell tales of Zoroastrians, Hindus, and Sikhs who once worshipped here. Each stone seems to whisper stories of Azerbaijan's rich spiritual past.
YANARDAG (FIRE MOUNTAIN)Even through the mist, the eternal flames of Yanardag danced their mystical performance - a natural phenomenon that captures Azerbaijan's elemental beauty.
UNEXPECTED CULINARY DELIGHTSA surprise Pakistani restaurant near Yanardag became an unexpected treasure:
Melt-in-mouth kebabs
Creamy yogurt soup
Aromatic vegetable biryani
Rich, comforting chicken curry
DAY 4: GABALA'S NATURAL SPLENDOR
GABALA CABLE CAR ADVENTURE Perfect weather blessed us with breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks against bright skies. Each moment suspended above the landscape offered a private showing of Azerbaijan's magnificent scenery.
MOUNTAIN DISCOVERIES
Local mountain honey tasting
Traditional baklava sampling
Each treat telling its own story of regional traditions
NOHUR LAKE EXPERIENCEThe mirror-like waters of Nohur Lake created perfect reflections of the sky, offering a serene escape into nature's embrace.
LAKESIDE DINING AT NOHUR GÖLA feast for both eyes and palate:
Traditional Shahi Pilaf
Fresh mountain trout
Authentic Azerbaijani kebabs
EVENING SERENITY AT SOYUQ BULAQ Our riverside dinner featured:
Warming traditional soups
Fragrant vegetable rice
Fresh Qutab (stuffed flatbread)All accompanied by the gentle sounds of flowing water.
DAY 5: FAREWELL TO AZERBAIJAN
Our journey concluded at the stunning Borani Terrace, where we raised a glass of local Xirdalan Original lager to our Azerbaijani adventure. As the sun set over Baku one final time, we reflected on five days of incredible experiences, warm hospitality, and unforgettable memories.
Thank you for joining us on this journey through Azerbaijan, where every day brought new discoveries and every meal told a story of this remarkable land.

01/01/2025

AZERBAIJAN TRAVEL DIARIES: UNVEILING A HIDDEN GEM - PART 1
Get ready for a journey to Azerbaijan – where ancient traditions meet modern elegance, and every moment feels like a story waiting to be told!
Through these posts, I'll be sharing our incredible adventure to two remarkable destinations:
BAKU: The cosmopolitan capital blending European sophistication with Azerbaijani soul
Iconic landmarks like the Flame Towers
Vibrant streets alive with culture and history
Culinary delights that will leave your taste buds dancing
GABALA: A mountain paradise steeped in natural beauty and rich heritage
Stunning landscapes perfect for every nature lover
Immersive traditional experiences and local hospitality
Unique adventures that take you off the beaten path
DAY 1: BAKU – A EUROPEAN VIBE WITH AZERBAIJANI CHARM
Baku welcomed us with its irresistible blend of sleek modernity and cultural depth. From the towering Flame Towers to the serene views at Highland Park, the city felt like a harmonious marriage of the past and future.
NIZAMI STREET ADVENTURESThe lively heartbeat of Baku! Bustling shops, friendly faces, and the irresistible aroma of freshly baked goodies turned every step into a memory.
CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS:(1) Entree Bakery: Warm croissants and coffee – the perfect cozy start to our day!(2) Dolma Restaurant: A hidden gem offering a taste of Azerbaijan's soul:
Vegetarian Platter – A burst of flavors from pickled and stir-fried vegetables
Shahi Pilaf – Sweet and savory harmony
Mutton Stir-fry – Rich and tender, wrapped in traditional roti
Dinner here wasn't just a meal – it was an experience. The vintage decor, soft folk music, and intimate atmosphere transported us to another era.
DAY 2: EXPLORING MORE OF BEAUTIFUL BAKU
Evening in Baku: Our exploration led us back to Nizami Street, where we discovered Namli Kebap – a Turkish restaurant that redefined "culinary excellence."
THE FEAST:
Mezze Platter: Creamy Lebneh, fiery Muhammara, smooth Hummus, refreshing Tzatziki
Main Courses: Juicy lamb chops and perfectly grilled Shish Touq (chicken skewers)
Desserts: Kunafa and Baklava, served with ice cream – the sweetest end to a perfect day!
COMING UP IN PART 2; Get ready to join us as we venture into the enchanting mountain town of Gabala! We'll take you through ancient forests, traditional villages, and share the magical moments that made this journey truly special. From local cuisine that will make your mouth water to breathtaking mountain vistas, our Gabala adventure is a story you won't want to miss!

27/12/2024

Sawai Gandharva Bhimsen Mahotsav: where music and flavours blend

The Sawai Gandharva Bhimsen Mahotsav is not just a celebration of Hindustani classical music; it’s an experience that beautifully blends Pune’s cultural heritage with its culinary traditions. While the maestros weave magic on stage, the food stalls add to the festive charm with their delicious offerings of Puneri and regional delicacies.
The food stalls serve a delightful mix of traditional snacks and unique regional specialties. Among the highlights are the quintessential Puneri Dadape Pohe (दडपे पोहे) and Kolache Pohe (कोळाचे पोहे). Kolache Pohe is a traditional preparation where poha is combined with jaggery (gud), coconut milk and tamarind, creating a delightful balance of sweetness and texture. This simple yet satisfying dish is a nostalgic favourite.
The Haldichya Panatalya Patolya(हळदीच्या पानातल्या पातोळ्या),a treasured Konkani delicacy, features jaggery-sweetened rice flour dough spread on turmeric leaves and steamed to perfection. The leaves impart a unique aroma, making this simple, aromatic dish a festive favorite.

For those craving something savory, the Tikhat Mithachya Purya and the flavorful Matar Karanji hit the right notes, while the humble yet comforting Tandalachi Ukad (steamed rice flour preparation) and Mugachi Khichdi provided a nourishing experience for people seeking comfort food. These traditional dishes not only satisfied the palate but also brought a sense of nostalgia and connection to the roots of Maharashtra’s culinary heritage.
Stalls like Kumaradhara’s Coffee served steaming cups of south indian filter coffee that perfectly complemented the winter evenings, while others like Suhana (सुहाना) offered मसाला चाय & मसाला दूध.

As the raagas filled the air and the aromas of these timeless delicacies wafted through the venue, the Sawai festival created an ambiance where music and food blended seamlessly, offering a wholesome experience for both the soul and the stomach. Truly, a celebration of Pune’s spirit at its finest!





Anirudha Ambekar Sucheta Ambekar Anant Farms

24/12/2024

🎵 The magical 70th Sawai Gandharva Bhimsen Mahotsav 2024!

This year was even more special as it marked my 17th year attending this extraordinary festival — a pilgrimage that continues to enrich my soul. With over 10,000 people in attendance, I am certain this is the largest gathering of Hindustani classical music aficionados, a testament to the timeless appeal and unifying power of our rich musical heritage. Let me share some unforgettable moments from these five days of pure classical bliss:

Day 1

The festival opened with the mesmerizing Carnatic violin by Dr. L Subramaniam and his son Ambi, setting a soulful tone. The evening peaked with Pt. Ajoy Chakraborty’s heart-stirring rendition of Raag Bihag. His "चिंता ना करे, अल्लाह करम करे" transported the audience to spiritual bliss, while "झुम झाम धुम धाम – घर आई गोरी गोकुल नगरी" had everyone swaying in delight. He concluded with the evocative "बैठे सोचे ब्रज बाम, सूना लागे मोरा धाम, नाही आये घन श्याम, घीर आयी कारी बदरी."

Day 2

Few artists combine mastery with modesty like Pt. Venkatesh Kumar, whose divine music reflected his pure devotion to the art. The 71-year-old maestro from Dharwad left the audience spellbound with Raag Maru Bihag and Kaunsi Kanada. His affectionate treatment of the slow-tempo "रसिया, आयो ना" in Maru Bihag brought approving nods, while "मन मे रहो मोरा जियरा" showcased his exceptional artistry.
His majestic rendition of "राजन के राजा श्री रामचंद्र/ जगत उद्धारण जन प्रतिपालन" in Kaunsi Kanada created a deeply spiritual atmosphere, followed by the moving "काहे करत मोसे बरजोरी." He ended with two devotional pieces, "कैलास वास गौरीष ईशा शंभो" and "विठाबाई माझ्या पंढरीची आई," leaving the audience in awe.
Earlier, Anupama Bhagwat made a memorable debut, exploring the emotional depth of Raag Jhinjhoti. Dedicated to her late guru Bimalendu Mukherjee and reflecting on the loss of Ustad Zakir Hussain, her performance balanced celebration and separation, deeply moving the audience.

Day 3

The all-women ensemble 'Mohini' opened the day with grace. Purbayan Chatterjee, true to his promise, paid tribute to Shakti without explicitly naming Ustad Zakir Hussain. His Mishra Pahadi compositions, "सैयां बिन घर सुना लगे, याद पिया की आये" and "केसरिया बालमा," were deeply evocative. Hearing him sing a few lines was a delightful surprise.
Arati Ankalikar ji’s exploration of Raag Nand culminated in the eternal abhang "अवघा रंग एक झाला," an emotional tribute to her guru, Gaan Saraswati Kishori Amonkar.

Day 4

Anand Bhate took the audience on a spiritual journey with his sublime Raag Puriya Kalyan. His "जोहार मायबाप जोहार" resonated deeply, leaving everyone in awe. The highlight of the day was witnessing Kaushiki Chakraborty perform alongside her 13-year-old son Rish*th Desikan in Raag Bihag. The pride in Kaushiki’s eyes as she guided her son through a slow composition was as moving as the music itself — a moment of tradition passed down through love.
Kaushiki’s playful exploration of "झुम" reached emotional depths, supported brilliantly by Tanmay Deochakke (harmonium), Satyajit Talwalkar (tabla), and Murad Ali Khan (sarangi). The performance concluded with a light composition and the meditative chant "Hari Om Tatsa."
The day ended on a high with Rakesh Chaurasia’s mesmerizing flute performance.

Day 5

The grand finale began with Sanjeev Abhyankar's soul-stirring Raag Ahir Bhairav. Performances by Shashank Subramanyam (flute) and R Kumresh (violin) added depth to the day. A touching tribute to Prabha Atre by her students brought the festival to a heartfelt close.
Reflections

This year, the festival carried extra significance as many artists paid homage to the late Ustad Zakir Hussain. His absence was deeply felt, but his spirit lived on in every performance, transcending technical brilliance to reach emotional and spiritual heights.
Every year, Sawai is a journey — not just through music but through the soul. This year reminded me of why I’ve returned for 17 years. The sight of over 10,000 people united by their love for Hindustani classical music was profoundly moving. Each day offered moments that felt eternal, from the simplicity of Pt. Venkatesh Kumar’s craft to the emotional bond between Kaushiki and Rish*th.
Music, as always, transcended its form to become a bridge to spiritual bliss. Until next year, Sawai! 🎶

Do watch short clips of key moments I have captured...

Sawai Gandharva Bhimsen Mahotsav Ajoy Chakrabarty Kaushiki Chakraborty Purbayan Chatterjee