03/08/2026
Last message from Nirmal Purja "Nims Dai"
-------
" THE MISSION SHIFTS. THE COMPASS HOLDS.
This was never the plan. Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits. That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here , only one remains “Cho Oyu.” Then I become the FIRST person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen.
This wasn’t planned. The Hattrick project was the focus because it carried a bigger mission. But opportunities don’t scream: they whisper to those already working in silence.
Here’s the secret I’ve carried through every expedition: I never competed with anyone else. My only battle was against the man I was yesterday. Every single day, pushing my own limits. Because the moment you look sideways: at what others are doing, saying, achieving: you drift off your compass. Your heading is YOURS. Guard it fiercely.
They criticized me when I climbed the 14 without O’s during Project Possible. If you haven’t seen what that took, watch 14 Peaks on Netflix. That film is the unfiltered truth. I was there doing multiple rescues of climbers left behind by other expeditions, raising the funds myself, leading from the front, fixing our own lines, dealing with the Shishapangma permit with China, being at hospitals for my mum’s operation and so much more. And now? Now I’m heading for the double without oxygen: triple in total. The noise hasn’t stopped. I just stopped listening.
To those who still doubt: I already climbed all 5 of Pakistan’s 8000ers in just 26 days. Leading. Guiding. Without oxygen. Breaking the records of those who broke mine with oxygen. The receipts are there.
Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one. The moment my foot leaves basecamp, it’s 100%. Always has been. Always will be.
This one is dedicated to everyone who carried me here. Supporters. Critics. All of you.
