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The Audacious Path, Havelock (2026)

19/06/2026

Today was the closest to death I ever got.

It’s also the only two days we made a potentially deadly mistake.

In the morning, we got the weather report and saw that there was a big storm supposed to be coming in the next day, which could potentially block us from getting over Goat’s Pass.

We discussed going farther than the hut everyone was aiming for and camping to make the next day quicker.

This would enable us to get passed all the river crossings that could block us if they got too high.

In the end, we decided to play it by ear and see how we felt when we got to Kiwi West Hut.

Overall, the day went fantastically.

Maddy and I mostly kept together and chatted while Owen went ahead.

The other people we’d met, Anna and the Czech couple wizzed ahead too.

By time we got to Kiwi West hut, it was full, not just by our group but by some hikers going southbound.

We asked them about the conditions and they warned us of a big river crossings we’d have to do across the Taramakau River.

We decided to go on another 6kms or so to get a head start on tomorrow as we’d discussed, which meant we’d cross that river tonight.

I’d read in one of the hut books that someone we’d walked with had slipped in a river, lost his hiking pole, and only been able to save himself a bit downstream, so that was in the back of my mind.

The river crossing was just at the end of the 6kms, so by time we got there, we were tired.

Owen, being the most experienced of our group, scouted a safe place to cross and went to the other side.

But we hadn’t crossed that many rivers so far, and none this deep, so he didn’t really know my experience level with rivers (which was pretty much none).

Me and Maddy started to cross slowly following all the pointers he gave us.

Fave the flow and crab your way across. Never cross your feet. Lean towards the flow on tour polls.

The pressure against my legs was too much, and I was starting to slip.

I could feel the panic rising.

Half way across I froze.

Maddy asked if we should go back.

I said it was too late.

I was too far in to turn around.

Sensing my panic, Owen threw off his backpack and ran to me.

“BREATHE DANIELLA! BREATHE!”

I felt my foot slip agin, and he grabbed my arm.

He repeated this over and over while standing in front of me blocking the water flow.

Both me and Maddy realised that we were indeed not breathing.

As I began to breathe more deeply, the panic subsided and I slowly inched my way across, eventually making it to the bank.

I literally started jumping for joy and hugging them both.

I made it!

I was alive!

The euphoria stuck with me for hours, but even worse, the fear stuck with me all night as I knew tomorrow we had more crossings to do.

Did I have the skill level?

Could I do this?

And dear Owen for jumping to my rescue.

I’m so glad we stuck together!

As we put up camp on the other side of the bank just high enough to avoid any rising rivers (just in case though rain wasn’t predicted), a massive wind blew and we heard several trees around us fall.

The entire river bank was lined by massive trees.

Not a great place to sleep.

But alas, we had nothing left in us after the crossing, and we desperately needed sleep.

Last minute, we realised that Maddy had lost her tent along the way, so we ended up sharing mine (luckily a 2 person).

It was one of the nights where I felt most alive.

Near death, dear friendship, and my first girl’s sleepover in a tent in probably 3 decades.

16/06/2026

Today was one of my favorite days on the trail.

Maddy and I had bonded the day before and we’d also met another friendly chick, Anna.

Today, the three of us spent most of the day walking together and chatting.

It was SOOOO nice having some ladies to talk to!

These ladies were the same age as me and going through similar life experiences.

It was such a light uplifting experience.

At one point, we came upon some natural hot springs.

Owen and a couple who’d been at the hut the night before with us all went ahead, leaving us three ladies.

Knowing we only had 3km to go, we took our sweet time.

After the hot pools, we came across a perfectly clear body of water which was inviting though very chilly.

Of course, the instigator that I am, I suggested skinny dipping.

I mean, why the heck are we doing this trail thing if not to skinny dip!?

Anna was first in, head under water and all.

Then Maddy, then me.

Full honesty: me getting in was poor form.

I only went in to my belly button.

Free will.

No one could force me, and having been homeschooled, I’m not prone to caving to peer pressure.

A shame really. 🤣

Anyway, we got to the hut and I roped in everyone to play a game of Yahtzee.

Pretty sure Owen lost. 😅😜🤣

13/06/2026

This was by far the scariest section on the entire trail, a section I will talk about and remember for decades.

As we entered the section, we passed by a chick packing up her tent and had a chat.

She had met several people who either started the section the day prior and said the next river was too high to cross, or they we’re north bound and said it was the hardest section to go through overall.

They had warned her to turn back, but not easily deterred and a hard skinned kiwi used to crazy conditions, she set up tent hoping other crazies would pass by and give her hope it was doable.

The river you see doesn’t look that high, but at the deepest bit, it was almost thigh high and running super fast.

It’s so hard to describe the feeling you feel with that much pressure against your legs and a giant backpack on.

When we made it safely across, we decided to wait for the chick we’d passed to ensure she safely crossed too.

We ended up sticking together, and she ended up being one of my favorite people on the trail (don’t worry Owen, you’re up there too).

Maddy was her name.

Between jobs and looking for a solo adventure.

Same age, and like me, had a supportive partner at home feeding her weather updates and safety info.

Not gonna lie… it was super nice to have another female around to chatter with.

Owen is not very… talkative. 😅

After that first river, the day was pretty easy.

We were still entering the foothills of the peaks we were about to conquer.

When we got to the hut, it was the most crowded I’d had in weeks.

A Czech couple and another kiwi chick.

Only Maddy agreed to play Yahtzee with Owen and I though.

Anyway, I was excited for tomorrow.

Looks like I’d have another buddy for this section.

Then it was off to sleep for a big day tomorrow.

10/06/2026

We decided to take a day off.

We’d walked 16 days nonstop without a break and it was time (even though Owen wanted to keep walking).

Some people planned to keep going, but it had been raining nonstop, and the next section contained numerous rivers.

One guy went ahead alone, which we thought was brash and irresponsible.

We later heard he fell in the river, though luckily he was able to save himself minus one lost hiking pole.

First things first: accommodation.

We don’t normally book in advance because we never know how long it will take to walk a section.

We were lucky that we were able to find a cheap room despite most places being closed for Christmas - quite the opposite of what we expect in the States.

Then it was off to the hot pools.

Sorry guys… lots of you ranted and raved about what a treat it was.

I found myself way too over stimulated by the pure amount of people and pool options to truly enjoy it.

Anyway, after a bit of a soak, it was off to get everything I needed, which turns out was underwear mostly.😅

Every night, I’d gotten into the habit of washing my underwear and then changing into a clean, dry pair.

The wet pair would be hung above the fire place.

And three days in a row now, I’d left my underwear at the hut.

I was down to my last pair!

I also stocked up on food and some treats.

Then off to bed to call my family and partner before going into a deep sleep.

Up until now, I’d been told I just passed through the hardest sections and it was easier and easier moving forward.

Not sure where these people got this idea from, but I was about to head into the hardest sections yet.

But that was tomorrow’s problem…

06/06/2026

What I somehow managed to not record is that today was in fact…

Christmas.

And not exactly how I expected to spend Christmas.

It started when we were walking.

For reasons I am still unsure of, I started to feel like I was hallucinating and on drugs.

I felt cross eyed, a little nauseous, and unable to drink enough water.

Luckily my friends stayed with me and the feeling eventually went away after several hours.

But then there was the rain.

It rained nonstop and got worse as we got closer to Boyle.

By time we arrived there, it was pouring.

Two other hikers had already tried to hitchhike into Hamner, but being that most people were probably with family, they gave up after 1.5 hours.

So 5 of us in total ended up seeking shelter at the with an awesome volunteer named Jo.

One chick walked in shivering and wet, and Owen worked to quickly warm her up with tea and dry clothes to prevent hypothermia.

It was overall not the celebration and feast we had hoped for, but Jo made us delicious pizzas and shared a bottle of wine with us.

Then we all piled into the dedicated TA room, and started to wash and dry our clothes.

Clean clothes is a luxury on the trail.

The rain had worn most of us out, so we each sat in our bunks reading, watching the new season of Stranger Things, or talking to family.

I wouldn’t say I was miserable but I was disappointed we didn’t get to enjoy the day with good food.

But anyway, we’d try to hitch a ride into tomorrow and hopefully I’d be soaking in a spa!!

03/06/2026

I’d met an Austrian woman named Johanna back when I road the Timber Trail section.

We got along well - she was good company.

And then many weeks later, I ran into her again right before the Waiau Pass.

She was a people avoider, even more than me.

She seemed to have a deep connection with nature, and preferred to sleep alone in the middle of nowhere in her tent rather than sleep on a comfy hut mattress.

She had calm energy and perspective way past her age.

I was excited to see her and to spend the day hiking together to the next hut, which it seemed she would stay at with Owen and I.

She’s one of the two I had a snowball fight with by the way.

We set a short day for ourselves, partly due to the rain, partly due to logistics of organising which day to get into town, and partly because we’d heard the hut a bit farther onwards was not worth our while.

The only disappointment to the day was the rain.

Rain meant high rivers, and the next section started out with a big river crossing.

So in the midst of organising how far we would go, we were also trying to time the weather so we could keep moving.

Remember I’m on a deadline to get back to work.

I was given 4 months that my employer would hold my job for me.

I only had one month left to go before I needed to be back at work.

But that was later’s problem.

For now, I was excited to be dry in a hut earlier than expected.

Owen and I had gotten into a routine where we arrive, he cuts firewood (regardless of whether or not we actually burn a fire).

Then we eat.

Play Yahtzee.

Go to sleep.

By the way, the Owen cutting firewood thing comes from me impressing upon him the importance of the NZ hikers code.

Leave the hut as you found it or better.

You burn wood, you cut wood and you ensure it’s in a place safe from rain in case someone comes in desperately needing to warm up.

Owen took that seriously and every where we went, Owen and I cleaned and cut wood more than anyone else.

Every hut we went through came out better after we went through.

And anyone who was with us learned to do the same.

Imagine what the huts would look like if we all did that?

31/05/2026

Today was one of the most magical days on the trail.

For so long, we had long crazy days with heaps of challenge but not a lot of great views.

Today was the opposite - lots of great views and easy walking.

It was the first day I was able to just able to amble along and enjoy the views without fear of death or serious injury.

And so we took it easy.

Owen and I don’t normally walk together during the day (he is much much faster), but today, we chatted, laughed and took numerous naps right in the middle of the trail.

It was brilliant.

Despite of lazy walking, we were at the hut in no time.

A massive hut in a great location, we were sure we’d be fighting for a bed.

Turns out we were the only people at the hut !

So we read books, chopped firewood, and played Yahtzee before a very very early sleep.

As the sun shone through the window, my achy body quickly drifted into a peaceful sleep.

Tomorrow, with any luck, we’d be soaking at the hot springs in Hamner Springs as sleeping in a real bed.

One could hope, but destiny had a better idea for us tomorrow….

25/05/2026

In the trail notes, they described the Waiau Pass section as going up “in a direct fashion”.

They were not lying.

I thought maybe it’d zigzag a bit.

But oh no, have I not lived here long enough to know that is not the kiwi way?

It’s not the first time I have ascended a steep mountain in NZ and thought… this could have been more gradual.

To that, I always get the response, “We are not weak”.

And to that I respond, “That’s because you’re amateur trail builders.”

Just kidding. I’m gonna ruffle some feathers with that one.😅

A little more than half way up, I said screw it, I’m having lunch.

Updated my social media. Posted something to you guys.

Little did I know that Owen, and our new friend, Johanna, were at the top waiting for me.

When I finally got to the top, I am sure they were ready to go, but it wasn’t really their choice.

Because…

I hadn’t see snow in 10 years and I initiated a snow ball fight!!!

I was so damn giddy, I dropped my pack and just started chucking them.

The giddiness spread, and for a solid 10 minutes, we were running around like kids throwing snowballs at each other.

It was a BLAST!

Problem was, I mistakenly thought the hardest part was done.

It mostly was, but going down was both hard on my knees and there was one point where you’re literally scaling a vertical rock wall.

I couldn’t figure out my footing and probably felt a bit scared for the first time on the trail.

Luckily Owen and Johanna were able to help me find footings from below.

Young whipper snappers don’t know how much easier it is for them! 🤣

Only slightly disappointing part of the day was arriving at the hut to a bunch of hunters.

It’s not the hunting that bothers me… I grew up in a family of hunters.

But their stuff was spread out everywhere and they were noisy.

All good though, it’s part of the experience.

Supposedly tomorrow would be an easy going hike with beautiful views. I couldn’t wait!!!

20/05/2026

The minute I woke up, I said to Owen, let’s see if we can make it to Blue Lake Hut.

He thought I was nuts.

It could potentially be a 12 hour day if we we walked an average pace.

But so far, we’d been walking above average.

We agree to make it to West Sabine Hut and then decide from there.

Remember that ? How we agreed in advance to wait there? 🤣

I’ll forgive you for going onwards because you shared your chocolate with me. 🤣🤣

Part of the reason we decided to go on is because the guy we’d met the day prior.

Young. Charismatic. Lovely.

Grossly unprepared. A mooch. A hazard to all around him.

It all started at breakfast.

He didn’t eat much and I was concerned, but didn’t say anything.

Not my business.

Then at the first hut, he started making comments about being low on food.

He mentioned that he’d gotten food donations off people at the beginning of the trail the day prior.

Turns out they weren’t his friends. He’d only just met them.

But at the second hut it escalated.

Owen had already taken off, so I had a bad feeling when I arrived.

The guy was debating if he stayed or kept going down the trail that led out of the mountains (a different direction to where I was going).

He kept saying he was low on food.

He then asked me as I sat munching on my plentiful snacks, “Daniella, if I only have enough to eat snacks now or dinner tonight, which one would you do?”

I replied, “Neither. I would never put myself or anyone around me at risk by not having extra food, especially this close to food sources.”

Yah, I know it’s sassy, but hopefully someone here wakes da F up.

You do not walk into dangerous mountains where weather could change at any second and lock you into your shelter without spare food.

Every single one of us has chosen the exact amount of calories we need plus some emergency supplies to get us through each section.

When you ask us for food because you’re poor, badly prepared, or simply a mooch, you are taking my emergency supplies, thereby putting me at risk.

NOT COOL.

But I’m also not an a$$hole, and after gently lecturing him, I gave him a handful of peanuts.

Continued in comments.

18/05/2026

One of the guys I had walked the previous section with, Matt, left us today.

He was off to his own solo adventure.

Owen left early to head in the same direction as me, though knowing him, he might end up going further than me.

I left late so I could charge up all my devices and take advantage of the cell service to call family and assure them I wasn’t making dumb choices.

Which meant I was walking alone today.

Today was easssssy.

Other than the heavy pack stuffed to the brim with our food packages we had collected.

I stopped often, walked slowly as I chatted with my sister, and even took a short trail nap.

And yet somehow, 1km out from the last hut… who do I come upon?

None other than the good ole Owen rolling a cigarette.

How this man storms up mountains in no time while also being a smoker blows my mind.

But he was a polite smoker.

Kept it away from me.

Looks like we’d be sticking together a little bit longer.

Now of course, we had to carry on tradition and play a game of Yahtzee.

Just as we were about to sleep, a young Italian guy walked in.

He was lovely and charismatic, but something didn’t seem quite right.

Instantly he was talking about being low on food.

I’d seen him at the entrance to the section, so he’d had an opportunity to stock up.

And where were his friends he’d been with?

Hrm… wonder how this will pan out.

Anyway, it was off to sleep as tomorrow we’d be making a steep trek over our first big pass.

The Audacious Path

19/06/2026

16/06/2026

13/06/2026

10/06/2026

06/06/2026

03/06/2026

31/05/2026

25/05/2026

20/05/2026

18/05/2026

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