MPCJR Auto supply

MPCJR Auto supply Welcome To My Fan Page Im Moreno Clarite Jr The Owner and CEO Of This Page,Do you have a passion in business

26/08/2026
opening soon
26/08/2026

opening soon

With Kabugok – I just earned their Kabugok badge! 🎉
23/08/2026

With Kabugok – I just earned their Kabugok badge! 🎉

Steering System – Functions and Components
22/08/2026

Steering System – Functions and Components

Thank you Lord for my new additional tools in our MPCJR AUTOWORKZ
18/08/2026

Thank you Lord for my new additional tools in our MPCJR AUTOWORKZ

08/08/2026

Feeling blessed

The Proper Way to Wire Dual Horns to Your Ignition Switch (ACC Switched Relay Diagram) 📢⚡️Upgrading your truck, project ...
01/08/2026

The Proper Way to Wire Dual Horns to Your Ignition Switch (ACC Switched Relay Diagram) 📢⚡️

Upgrading your truck, project car, or bike to loud aftermarket dual horns (Hella Supertones, Denso, or PIAA)? Never tap directly into your factory horn wire or ignition switch without a 4-pin relay! High-power horns will quickly fry your ignition contacts or blow your main fuses.

Here is a clean, bulletproof 12V wiring schematic using an Ignition-Switched (ACC) setup!

🔥 WHY THIS SETUP IS A MUST FOR YOUR BUILD:
👉 KEY-ON SAFETY: The horns ONLY work when your ignition key is turned to ACC or ON. Zero risk of random people honking your horn while parked!
👉 ZERO DRAIN: Prevents passive battery drain when the vehicle is turned off.
👉 MAXIMUM VOLUME: Direct 12V power from the battery through a 15A fuse delivers full amperage straight to the horns for maximum sound output.

🔧 GARAGE PRO-TIP:
Always ensure your chassis ground points are sanded down to bare metal for a solid ground connection. Bad grounds are the #1 cause of weak-sounding dual horns!

📌 SAVE THIS WIRING DIAGRAM FOR YOUR NEXT PROJECT CAR OR TRUCK BUILD!

The Clutch: A Comprehensive Guide to its Components and Functionality_The clutch is a critical component in manual trans...
26/07/2026

The Clutch: A Comprehensive Guide to its Components and Functionality_

The clutch is a critical component in manual transmission vehicles, enabling drivers to smoothly shift gears and control the vehicle's speed. Let's delve into the parts of a clutch and their functions:

1. _Clutch Disc (Friction Plate):_ The clutch disc is the central component, covered with friction material on both sides. It connects and disconnects the engine from the transmission.

2. _Pressure Plate:_ The pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, engaging and disengaging it from the flywheel.

3. _Flywheel:_ The flywheel is attached to the engine's crankshaft, providing a smooth surface for the clutch disc to engage and disengage.

4. _Release Bearing (Throwout Bearing):_ The release bearing applies pressure to the pressure plate, disengaging the clutch.

5. _Clutch Master Cylinder:_ The clutch master cylinder converts non-hydraulic pressure from the clutch pedal into hydraulic pressure.

6. _Clutch Slave Cylinder:_ The clutch slave cylinder receives hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder, applying it to the release bearing.

7. _Clutch Pedal:_ The clutch pedal is connected to the master cylinder, allowing drivers to engage and disengage the clutch.

In conclusion, understanding the components of a clutch and their functions can help you appreciate the complexity and importance of this critical vehicle system.

Professional Insight: The Critical Nature of "Joint Play"​In professional diagnostics, the most common failure point in ...
18/04/2026

Professional Insight: The Critical Nature of "Joint Play"
​In professional diagnostics, the most common failure point in a suspension system is the degradation of integrated rubber bushings and ball joints. A Ball Joint or Tie Rod End is designed to operate with zero "axial play." Even 1mm of movement inside the joint socket can lead to significant alignment shifts under braking loads. This "play" causes the tire to oscillate, leading to a phenomenon known as "feathering" wear on the tread. If you hear a "clunk" while turning over a speed bump, the joint's internal nylon seat has likely failed, and the metal-on-metal contact is a sign of imminent separation.
​Common Suspension Issues & Professional Solutions
​Loose or "Vague" Steering: If there is too much "dead space" in the steering wheel before the car reacts, the Tie Rod Ends or the internal gears of the Rack & Pinion are likely worn.
​Solution: Inspect the dust boots on the tie rods; if they are torn, road grit has entered the joint. Replacement of the tie rod ends followed by a laser alignment is the standard fix.
​Continuous Bouncing After Bumps: If the car continues to oscillate after hitting a dip, the Suspension Strut Assembly has lost its hydraulic damping ability.
​Solution: Check the strut body for oil leaks. If "misting" or fluid is present, the internal seals have failed. Struts should always be replaced in pairs (front or rear) to maintain balanced handling.
​Humming or Growling Noise from Wheels: A consistent drone that gets louder with speed usually points to a failing Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly.
​Solution: Lift the vehicle and check for play by rocking the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. If movement is felt, the bearing must be replaced immediately to prevent the wheel from seizing or detaching.
​Maintaining the structural integrity of your vehicle's foundation is the expertise we bring to every job at Auto Experts

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