13/03/2025
There is much about my life at 52 I didn’t plan or hope for, but the one thing I hold onto is a level of freedom. That freedom has led me to a in , a small city in southern where tonight, fifty meters from three - yes three - coffin shops I get to indulge my favourite pastime, discovering traditional food that is new to me - all on my own. I love solo dining, conversation has ruined so many dinners in my life and really gets in the way of indulgence. I have two loves in dining. Cooking for people, standing back and watching others indulge, and sitting on my own indulging. All other forms of dining are vastly overated.
Tonight there are four things in front of me. A stew, a salad, bread and a beer. Who hasn’t had that before? How boring.
These four cornerstones of culture can open so many doors to history, tradition, place. The stew is Mućkalica Leskovaćka a hyper local traditional dish typically with left overs from yesterday’s grilled meats. This city is the capital of grilled meats over open coals and hosts a weeklong festival celebrating such things in late August, sadly I am here in March. Grilled pork (fattier cuts are more appreciated), bacon, onions, roasted peppers, tomatoes, garlic, paprika powder, and hot chili peppers are cooked slowly together. It is utterly delicious, slightly smokey, rich, uncious. The salad is šopska salata “shopkeeper salad” with chopped fresh tomatoes and cucumber and finely grated fresh cow cheese. It’s the perfect accompaniment with its freshness and creaminess from the cheese. The bread is Lepinja bread, a fresh spongy flatbread popular across the Balkans, perfect for mopping duties. The beer is, of course, Serbian with, of course, an utterly unreadable cyrillic label.
Glorious, and wonderfully unsharable.
Now sated and complete, two large platters of roast meat have just landed in front of a table of three Serbian chaps next to me. I’m full yet aching with food envy. Have I taken my statin today?
Time for a lie down.