11/04/2022
Yves Saint Laurent with his Les Yeux d’Elsa jacket and John Galliano with his backward suit for Christian Dior are among the many designers who have paid homage to Elsa Schiaparelli. Daniel Roseberry, who became creative director of the house in 2019, belongs on that list too. Roseberry’s approach has been largely focused on Surrealism, which has allowed him to assert his own vision for the house. That made his decision to include a version of Schiaparelli’s first hit, a bow sweater, in his autumn/winter 2022 ready-to-wear collection really stand out.
Designed in 1927, the bow sweater arrived into a fashion landscape increasingly focused on serving the needs of sleek and dynamic modern women, which brought knitwear to the fore. “Three-quarters of daytime fashions offered in Paris are of the sports type,” reported Vogue in 1921. “Simple, practical, and youthful, they constitute an influence that is more and more felt outside the realm of active sports in dress for general daytime and resort wear and for travel.” Schiaparelli’s sweater came with a trompe l’oeil twist. Ninety-five years on, the knit is still eye-catching.
In 1927 Elsa Schiaparelli was a 37-year-old divorcée and single mother trying to eke out a living (while wearing clothing gifted to her by Paul Poiret). Born into an aristocratic Roman family, Schiaparelli shocked her parents, first by publishing a book of her own poetry when she was 21 and then by refusing to accept the hand of the man her parents wanted her to marry. Unfortunately, the man she settled on left her not long after their daughter was born. Though hers was at times a hand-to-mouth existence, it wasn’t unglamorous. Gabrièle Buffet-Picabia, a writer involved with the Dada movement, invited her to Paris. There, Schiap, needing to earn a living, began to dabble in fashion.
An Inspiring Visit
What set Schiaparelli on her way in the field was a visit from an American friend who was wearing an unusual sweater that the designer would later describe in her autobiography, Shocking Life, as “definitely ugly in colour and shape, and though it was a bit elastic it did not stretch like other sweaters.” She asked her friend where she had found the pullover and was directed to a local knitter.
https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/history-of-elsa-schiaparelli-bow-sweater