Iron Indian

Iron Indian This is our personal blog on our 4 street/race cars, ranging from High 8s to High 10s in the 1/4 mile.

Always something to work on in the Iron Indian garage. Some good, some bad. I recently noticed quite a bit of missing co...
09/05/2026

Always something to work on in the Iron Indian garage. Some good, some bad.

I recently noticed quite a bit of missing coolant suddenly on the . Of course no obvious leaks externally I could find. Upon further inspection I discovered the coolant was in the oil pan leaking from a cylinder. I wasn’t sure if it was a head gasket, sleeve, or a crack in a water jacket.

It appears the issue was a Cometic head gasket failure itself around cylinder #8 area. Which Cometic head gasket failures seem to be not uncommon in the Coyote world after doing some research on my own. As you may remember, I had a similar experience on the LS platform with these same brand head gaskets awhile ago on . From this point forward, I’ll never run Cometics in anything I own period. Or even buy a motor that has these head gaskets installed to avoid future headaches like this. Just my personal experience and opinion.

Moving on, To get this motor back to perfection again, a new sleeve was installed on #8 because of deep rust putting on that cylinder that wouldn’t clean up with a hone. The cylinders were then touched honed and the block decks cleaned up. A new set of piston rings and main bearings were installed to finish up the bottom end. Last but not least, I opted to install OEM Ford GT500 head gaskets on this motor for round 2. These head gaskets were highly recommended by Coyote guys, especially those with previous issues with Cometic head gaskets.

Other than shipping and a small parts fee, TKM Performance really took care of us on this situation. Definitely a stand up company to do business with for your motor needs. From start to finish this unexpected project took right at a month to complete from pulling the motor on day one, shipping the motor to TKM, TKM performing their tasks, TKM shipping the motor back to me, and me putting the car back together and getting it to run again. Considering the timeline, pretty fast turn around time!

Now to break in the refreshed motor so we can get this back to the track again soon.

If you own a GMT-360 with Electronic Adjustable Pedals, and you happen to need a new brake pedal pad, this thread is for...
08/31/2026

If you own a GMT-360 with Electronic Adjustable Pedals, and you happen to need a new brake pedal pad, this thread is for you.

Those that follow me know I’ve been looking for a replacement brake pedal pad for one of my Trailblazer SS ( ) for a while now. New old stock from GM has been discontinued for many years and there is no inventory left I can find in the country on inventory. Not to mention there are no direct replacement aftermarket brake pedal pad replacements available for GMT-360s with adjustable pedals listed.

Pictured below are a comparison to regular GMT-360 pedal pad vs an adjustable brake pedal pad for reference. As you can see there is a significant difference in size. The adjustable pedal pads are much larger (taller) than the standard pedal pads by about 5/8 or an inch. I personally prefer the bigger pedal myself.

After literally trying a dozen existing pedal replacements through Dorman Products, I finally found something that works that exists! Just needs some minor tweaks to fit perfect. I’m using Dorman PN: 20788. Which is a brake pedal pad /clutch pedal pad listed for a 1990-2002 GM Kodiak or Top Kick variant according to the catalog. To make this pedal work, the first step is to shave off the protruding ni***es off the back side of the pedal pad as pictured with a Dremel tool. Next since appearantly the pedal fl**ges on the Kodiak are much thicker than the pedal fl**ge used on the GMT-360s with adjustable pedals, you have to make up that space some how. There are many ways to do this, however I wanted to do it in a way I didn’t permanently alter the pedal fl**ge, just incase a real aftermarket replacement ever became available. Simple put, I covered the fl**ge with 30 lbs 3M tape double sided tape. Which for me got the thickness just right for my application. I could have probably left the red cover over the tape and not used the sticky side at all, however I choose to use it for extra security and it was available.

The results? Works perfect for my setup. Pedal has been tested and used numerous times, everything works like it should. Only downside is the physical looks of the pedal looks completely different. But honestly, how many people are going to notice that or even care? Form and function out weighs this I think.

Summary. If you have a GMT-360 with Non Adjustable pedals you have an OEM and aftermarket replacement pedal pads readily available all over. GM PN: 14030895 and Dorman PN: 20722. For the adjustable pedal guys, NOTHING is available for you guys. However you can use Dorman PN: 20788 and with a couple small modifications outlined above, you can successfully use this pedal pad on your adjustable pedal equipped GMT-360 with success.

Hope this helps a few out with adjustable pedals GMT-360s besides the Trailblazer SS guys. Good luck.

Guys with VP Racing Fuels 3 or 5.5 Gallon jugs, this nozzle I found is a game changer! I’m not sure how long VP has offe...
08/26/2026

Guys with VP Racing Fuels 3 or 5.5 Gallon jugs, this nozzle I found is a game changer! I’m not sure how long VP has offered this nozzle, but I wish I learned about it sooner!

For years I have used just the regular VP nozzle with a 45 degree adapter and of course used the vent on the tank itself. Often times you’ll spill a little fuel and sometimes you can make a little mess. This Trigger Fluid Control System nozzle features fluid control button and a built in vent tube. With this setup you do not need to use the vent on the tank anymore. Results? No mess at all! Not to mention being able to get the tank (especially when full) in the right position before releasing the fuel. Now you have control with a button.

I’m sure there are some Amazon knock offs out there for a few dollars cheaper, however I’m very happy with this product has performed so far. This will be very handy at the track and on drag and drive adventures.

Sometimes it’s the little things like this that makes all the difference.

One more post going back to memory lane, I promise. Here is the car I upgraded to from my first car on my previous post,...
08/21/2026

One more post going back to memory lane, I promise.

Here is the car I upgraded to from my first car on my previous post, and probably the biggest reason I love roots superchargers to this day. Around August of 2002 I purchased a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Supercharged coupe. It was bone stock and old person owned. It had the 240hp 3.8 Series II Supercharged V6 which had an Eaton M90 Superchager straight from General Motors. It was loaded with sunroof, leather, heated seat, lumbar, Heads Up Display, Drivers Info Computer, Digital Dual Climate Control, Bose, 12 Disc CD changer, Polished Torque Stars, etc. I think every option you could get for a Grand Prix that year.

The first week I got it I swapped my chrome 16s from my 1993 Grand Prix on to this one before I sold it. I also tinted the windows that first week. A few weeks later the bolt on mods began (CAI, Pulley, DHP tune) and I was ready to race. Going from something slow to something significantly faster with a hell of a lot more potential was a game changer for sure. I got to finally race on the street and the strip and be somewhat competitive. (For a street car at the time anyway)

I ended up doing a lot of mods over the years under the hood (SFPHQ pulleys, headers, 3” exhaust, 1.9 Rockers, Full Intercooler, ICCU, DHP Powertuner, Alky, etc), not to mention exterior mods. (F1 Ram Air Hood, SLP spoiler, Shaved Key hole on decklid, different wheels, etc) I owned that car a little over 10 years before letting her go with over 200k on it. Not sure how much HP it ended up having, (never dynoed it) however it was a solid high 12 sec car in the 1/4 mile.

Only cruised the GTP for a few years before the 12th street cruising scene died down which was a sad time for me. However with work picking up and traveling a lot, I really didn’t have the time anyway. From there I mostly went to the track. (Thunder Valley Raceway Park Noble, Oklahoma) Main reason I sold the GTP, was because it was Front wheel drive and racing that kind of platform kinda sucks in my opinion. I also purchased a couple years earlier (2010) and was starting to play with it more and I enjoyed racing it more. I already had as well. (2008)

Sometimes I regret selling that car. It was a very good car considering how many years of abuse I gave it. It never failed on me though because I did take of it. For several years it was my only car too and it never let me down. I ended up selling that car as it sat. (Paint and body were perfect, driveline as a little tired but still ran great) The next owner had big plans for it after his purchase. Unfortunetly that car got totaled not long after I sold it to the new owner. Sad to say that this car is gone forever. I don’t think I’d ever build another one either. That was the only GTP for me and I enjoyed it while I had it.




Bring cruising back to 12th street!!
cruising 12th street in Moore discussion

Let’s play a game, what was YOUR first car?Mine? It was a 1993 Pontiac Grand Prix SE. It had the mighty 140 hp 3.1 MPFI ...
08/16/2026

Let’s play a game, what was YOUR first car?

Mine? It was a 1993 Pontiac Grand Prix SE. It had the mighty 140 hp 3.1 MPFI V6. 17 seconds of blistering power… yeah it was severely under powered but it cleaned up well and wasn’t a terrible first car. All I ended up doing to it was install chrome KMC 16” wheels, CAI, Exhaust, Chip, and a CB, that was about it. I ran this car many miles cruising 12th street in Moore in the late 90s / early 00s until I upgraded cars a bit. More on that another day.

Bring cruising back to 12th street!!
cruising 12th street in Moore discussion


Did a little bit of Test and Tune at Thunder Valley Raceway Park Noble, Oklahoma. Friday night. Unfortunately, appears...
08/11/2026

Did a little bit of Test and Tune at Thunder Valley Raceway Park Noble, Oklahoma. Friday night.

Unfortunately, appears to have a throttle body issue I need to figure out, otherwise that was a one and done pass for that night. Luckily, she drove home just fine. Just need to figure out why she’s doing what she’s doing.

At least there was some good that came from the night. Ever since I did the the Sonnax valve fix (mentioned in the previous thread) on , she has been driving great. Quite a few street miles driven not to mention a pretty flawless night at the track. Everything ran like it should, especially for the DA and the humidity. I still can’t thank Jim Cam enough for his help on this deal.

Photo credit: Real Good Racing ' racing team and performance photography', thanks for the shots!

Anyone who runs a GM 4L80 transmission with a Transbrake and a Triple Disc Torque Converter, you may find this post usef...
08/06/2026

Anyone who runs a GM 4L80 transmission with a Transbrake and a Triple Disc Torque Converter, you may find this post useful. Especially if you are having some odd drivability issues.

My story… For about a couple years now I’ve been chasing not only a drag issue in drive/reverse gear but also a low idle issue in gear or shifting between gears. All this time I was lead to believe that this was all in the tuning since my setup on is a bit complicated to say the least. Also I always believed the issue could be on the motor side, maybe even something small mechanical related I was overlooking. I honestly had no idea the issue was transmission related all this time, until literally last week! Huge shootout and thanks to Jim Cam who has spent countless hours graciously helping me get this TBSS lined out remotely and even in person one afternoon. Jim is the one that actually discovered the threads regarding this specific issue with the 4L80 transmission. I honestly didn’t believe it at first since I literally had no other transmission issues to lead me believe anything was wrong with it. Not to mention the converter and transmission were suppose to be built to work with each other. (Built, tested, and dynoed together before I took delivery) Obviously I was wrong.

Here is the fix. First off, check out the two links listed below. See if any issues you maybe having with your 4L80 are maybe similar. Read carefully.

https://580performance.com/blogs/news/4l80-torque-converter-clutch-drag-idle-surge

https://www.circledspecialties.com/blogs/tech-news/4l80-torque-converter-clutch-drag

As you just read, the solution is fairly simple. Order the Sonnax part number 34200-14K l**e regulator valve. I ordered mine through Rock Auto. This part can be easily replaced by dropping the transmission pan and doing your regular pan drop service. You can access the bottom of the 4L80 pump with the filter removed from the pan area. When installing this new Sonnax part, I would also strongly suggest replacing the two rubber o-rings on the boost sleeve if you can find them. Even though my o-rings showed wear, I took a chance and reused them reluctantly. I took my chances because I was very skeptical this was going to fix anything honestly. Once you reassemble everything, install a new filter, and bolt the pan back on, you can refill the transmission accordingly and hopefully gain positive results from doing this fairly simple modification. I know I certainly did.

On the pictures, the OEM 4L80 l**e regulator valve is on the left, and the Sonnax replacement is on the right. The difference is the extra l**e passages on the Sonnax part. A picture of the breakdown and location of the l**e regulator valve is attached on the pictures. To think, this little part has literally caused me so much grief for all this time. Frustrating to say the least.

With that said, I’m not pointing fingers at anyone or anything like that, however I think the info below needs to be more readily availible to anyone doing a 4L80/Transbrake/Triple Disc Converter setup. I know I’ve never heard about any of this before and I’m sure I’m not the only one. Regardless, I know I’ll be doing my best to spread awareness on this issue as best as I can. I know I’ve personally wasted a lot of time, energy, and money on this issue. Not to mention friends, tuners, etc trying to help me get this thing straightened out. It’s been a huge headache to say the least.

I really hope this helps someone out there. Please share this post or at least the info on this post so someone doesn’t have to go through this same mess I’ve had to go though all this time. Good luck.






Recently my Pioneer Electronics (North America) DMH-W3000NEX headunit in developed a spot in the middle of the screen....
08/01/2026

Recently my Pioneer Electronics (North America) DMH-W3000NEX headunit in developed a spot in the middle of the screen. Nothing hit it or touched it at all, it just literally showed up one day. Unfortunately this head unit is about 6 months out of its warranty window, just my luck lately.

I called Pioneer for parts and they wanted $200 plus shipping for a new screen. Luckily they gave me the part number to the screen I needed. After some research I found the same screen for $100 shipped to my door on eBay which I purchased.

Installation was a pain but very doable if you are careful with the tiny ribbon cables. You have to very carefully lift up on some tabs to move the ribbon cables. To clarify, pictured is the old screen I removed, I installed the new screen with Nitrile gloves. Everything went fairly smooth considered how small everything was. I’m happy to say everything works as it should now.

Hopefully my other three Pioneer headunits (X2 DMH-W3000NEX and X1 DMH-2600NEX) don’t develop this problem anytime soon and this was a fluke.

Here some pictures of and the at the 12th Street cruise in Moore, OK on July 18th. Great turn out! If you’re in the ...
07/27/2026

Here some pictures of and the at the 12th Street cruise in Moore, OK on July 18th. Great turn out! If you’re in the OKC area, it’s definitely worth checking out. I used to cruise this strip every Friday night back in the good ol’ days.

Started out cruising in a 1993 Pontiac Grand Prix SE (first car) then I stepped up to a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Back in the days where a low 13 sec / high 12 sec street cars were fast. Oh how times have changed since the late 90’s/early 00’s. Crazy!

Photo Credits: Oklahoma Hustle Media , Harris


Bring cruising back to 12th street!!
cruising 12th street in Moore discussion
Brian Smith

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