Short Guys Beta Works (2025)

04/09/2025

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As we've discussed in a previous short, I do carry a quick link on my bail carabiner for a number of reasons, but to use it to bail from a sport climb isn't one of them. Here's why.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

We do YouTube Shorts like this, short films of our family adventures, and plenty of how-to and educational videos to help you and your family get outside!

This specific video can also be found YouTube at: https://youtube.com/shorts/21uBbciQNm4

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Music is "Biscuits and Gravy” by Will Harrison

01/09/2025

Find the full length video, here:
https://youtu.be/XxTsrOJrIRE

When we have a damaged section of our rope and need to rappel (abseil) off the route, we can either go through a procedure to pass the knot while on a double-strand rappel, or we can switch to a single-strand rappel and avoid the knot pass altogether. But our setups into a single-strand rappel come with tradeoffs. The full video walks through four methods along with some pros and cons for each.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

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For more information on this topic, go to:
https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/all-blogs/0256damagedroperappels

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos on the Short Guys Beta Works YouTube channel. https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Again, find the full video, here:
https://youtu.be/XxTsrOJrIRE

28/08/2025

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When we are rappelling off of two ropes, we need to identify the pull strand and the rappel strand at each transition and then remember that designation when we reach the next rappel station. This simple trick can help us keep the full strand identified, even if we should forget.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

We do YouTube Shorts like this, short films of our family adventures, and plenty of how-to and educational videos to help you and your family get outside!

This specific video can also be found YouTube at: https://youtube.com/shorts/2OSl6xT48g4

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Music is "The Adjuster” by American Legion

25/08/2025

Find the full length video, here:
https://youtu.be/TeAkEGVNIrs

Because our entire family of four are climbers (to varying degrees), we have climbed as a team of four, on occasion. This is an unusual occurrence for most climbers, but for families with two kids of similar age, it happens fairly regularly. The same methods that can efficiently get a family of four up a multi-pitch route can get any other four-person team up a route when splitting the team into two twosomes is not an option.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

To subscribe to our channel:
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For more information on this topic, go to:
https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/all-blogs/02554personclimbingteam

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos on the Short Guys Beta Works YouTube channel. https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Again, find the full video, here:
https://youtu.be/TeAkEGVNIrs

21/08/2025

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I like the cheap price and small aperture opening of a quick link to help create rappel anchors for alpine route descents. But the reasons I started carrying one, and the reasons I most frequently use one on a climb might surprise you.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

We do YouTube Shorts like this, short films of our family adventures, and plenty of how-to and educational videos to help you and your family get outside!

This specific video can also be found YouTube at: https://youtube.com/shorts/9yIpPJBxOik

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Music is "Texas Groove” by Andreas Dahlback

18/08/2025

Find the full length video, here:
https://youtu.be/weppbvZ_0uc

Given how often I and my twin sons climb together, we've had to get fairly efficient at belay stance transitions. One such transition that (hopefully) happens almost every climb is the transition from climbing to rappelling down the route. If we can make these transitions fast and safely, we save time to climb more or more readily beat the weather or darkness setting in. The full video goes into detail on one climbing-to-rappelling transition that works for a team of three.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

To subscribe to our channel:
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For more information on this topic, go to:
https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/all-blogs/02543persontoptorappel

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos on the Short Guys Beta Works YouTube channel. https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Again, find the full video, here:
https://youtu.be/weppbvZ_0uc

14/08/2025

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Our Petzl GriGri belay device instructions warn against using HMS carabiners for fear that they become cross-loaded. But we're not concerned about the forces breaking the carabiner, device, or harness belay loop. We are concerned about hindering the camming action.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

We do YouTube Shorts like this, short films of our family adventures, and plenty of how-to and educational videos to help you and your family get outside!

This specific video can also be found YouTube at: https://youtube.com/shorts/tccgVuwchgA

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Music is "3rd Ave. Blues” by Roots and Recognition

11/08/2025

Find the full length video, here:
https://youtu.be/8AEGfRLr41s

My twin boys are new multi-pitch climbing leaders. That means they need to trust each other and I need to trust them, as well. How did I enter them into this new climbing discipline? The full video goes into detail around some of the work around exposure to, practice of, and eventual attempts at leading multi-pitch that are relevant to any new multi-pitch leader.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

To subscribe to our channel:
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For more information on this topic, go to:
https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/all-blogs/0253newmultipitchleader

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos on the Short Guys Beta Works YouTube channel. https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Again, find the full video, here:
https://youtu.be/8AEGfRLr41s

07/08/2025

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Descending from mountain summits can feel like an endless set of steps that can greatly fatigue our quadriceps (thigh muscles) above the knee. By switching up our plane of motion, we can recruit other muscle groups to help give our quadriceps a break.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

We do YouTube Shorts like this, short films of our family adventures, and plenty of how-to and educational videos to help you and your family get outside!

This specific video can also be found YouTube at: https://youtube.com/shorts/DbZwzG3asig

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Muscles in Sagittal Eccentric Step: https://www.physio-pedia.com/Muscle_Activity_During_Gait

Music is "You're In Trouble Deep” by Anders Bothén

04/08/2025

Find the full length video, here:
https://youtu.be/zshchb2Ebp4

Whether going from sea level to moderate altitude or from moderate altitude to high altitude, our bodies need time - and water - to adjust and adapt to the reduced oxygen we will take in. The full video gives an overview of the physiology, the potential illnesses, and the preventative tactics that all come into play when we experience significant altitude changes.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

To subscribe to our channel:
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For more information on this topic, go to:
https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/all-blogs/0252acclimatization

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

This short video references a clinical study on risk factors for altitude related illness: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3678789/

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos on the Short Guys Beta Works YouTube channel. https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Again, find the full video, here:
https://youtu.be/zshchb2Ebp4

31/07/2025

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Traversing pitches bring risks that more vertical climbing does not. As a lead climber on a traversing pitch, we need to think not only about protecting ourselves on the crux but our follower, as well, and we each have different needs for gear placements.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

We do YouTube Shorts like this, short films of our family adventures, and plenty of how-to and educational videos to help you and your family get outside!

This specific video can also be found YouTube at: https://youtube.com/shorts/VJDjMqIoR_c

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Music is "Hustlin Man Blues” by Will Harrison

28/07/2025

Find the full length video, here:
https://youtu.be/PXGnpEyxDpQ

With twin boys, this dad spends a lot of time climbing in a team of three, and we most frequently use double ropes. Double rope systems can create tangles that can dramatically slow the team's progress. So, here is the first of three techniques that help us avoid or quickly resolve rope management issues. The other techniques are in the full length video.

A video can introduce concepts and even provide tutorials, but it cannot cover all of the variable situations and context of outdoor environments. Learn about something here, but then seek qualified instruction to master it.

To subscribe to our channel:
https://www.youtube.com/c/ShortGuysBetaWorks?sub_confirmation=1

For more information on this topic, go to:
https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/all-blogs/02513personropemanagement

To see all of our video and blog content, including gear lists, trip itineraries, links to the equipment we carry with us, and our additional thoughts on all of it, you can visit: https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com

Disclaimer: Please see the link for our disclaimer policy for all of our videos on the Short Guys Beta Works YouTube channel. https://www.shortguysbetaworks.com/disclaimerandcopyright

Again, find the full video, here:
https://youtu.be/PXGnpEyxDpQ

Short Guys Beta Works