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In many parts of Japan, the arrival of winter is signaled not by the calendar date, but by the appearance of hanging per...
21/11/2025

In many parts of Japan, the arrival of winter is signaled not by the calendar date, but by the appearance of hanging persimmons under the nokish*ta (roof overhangs). These are hoshigaki, made from astringent persimmons that are inedible in their raw state. By peeling and hanging them to dry in the cold, dry breeze for weeks, they undergo an amazing transformation from bitter to sweet. This is the patient wisdom of the countryside at work, minimizing what could easily go to waste by sustainably harnessing wind and time.

越前和紙 | EchizenwashiThe town of Echizen in Fukui Prefecture has been a center of sustainable handcrafted washi paper for ...
01/09/2025

越前和紙 | Echizenwashi
The town of Echizen in Fukui Prefecture has been a center of sustainable handcrafted washi paper for over 1500 years. While that is hard enough to fathom from afar, visiting a paper production facility allows for true understanding of a process that is much more than the sum of its parts.

Witnessing washi in the making is a concert of sorts, with sounds and rhythms unique to this water-rich process. The steady back-and-forth rhythm of a pair of craftspeople working in sync, moving the large "suki keta" frame steadily back and forth through water, above water, filtering water to reveal a delicate sheet nearing final form.

Connecting this physical process to its spiritual roots, the nearby Okamoto Otaki Shrine--itself a divine work of masterful carpentry--is dedicated to the goddess of washi. Indeed, theirs is a tradition of beauty, harmony, and utility.

On the slopes of the Tachikui mountains in the city of Tamba-Sasayama are kilns that have been continuously produced sin...
01/07/2025

On the slopes of the Tachikui mountains in the city of Tamba-Sasayama are kilns that have been continuously produced since medieval times. This tradition, known as Tamba ware--one of Japan's Six Ancient Kilns--has been praised by luminaries such as Bernard Leach and Soetsu Yanagi. Indeed, an authentic culture of craft remains in Tamba to this day.

For such a singularly illustrious ceramics heritage in a country renowned for its crafts, Tamba feels completely hidden from view, like an uncontacted tribe in a far-flung remote location. However, Tamba, located in east-central Hyogo Prefecture, is an easy trip from travel hubs such as Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara. The small city of less than 50,000 keeps its doors wide open to anyone who enters, whether visiting the local castle ruins, the Museum of Ceramic Art, or today's potters themselves. 

We've come to know this place and its makers well. If you're curious to visit this mist-shrouded mountain town on your next trip to Japan, let us know! We'd be glad to bring you there.

The wonderful city of Toyama, with its eponymous bay on its north side and massive Tateyama mountain range to its south,...
28/05/2025

The wonderful city of Toyama, with its eponymous bay on its north side and massive Tateyama mountain range to its south, is a worthwhile visit and an excellent base from which to begin an adventure through Japan's Hokuriku region. From the Kengo Kuma-designed Glass Art Museum to a delightful, well-preserved Edo-era port town, Toyama is a city that beckons, with few foreign travelers who answer the call.

At just two and a half hours from Tokyo via bullet train, Toyama is a radical departure for leisure and adventure. That is, radically refreshing. Excellent food, crafts, cultural history, and natural beauty--stay tuned as we reveal more about this region soon!

With the Setouchi Triennale currently underway, many visitors to the region naturally have the art islands on their mind...
09/05/2025

With the Setouchi Triennale currently underway, many visitors to the region naturally have the art islands on their minds and itineraries. Wonderful as they are, we recommend veering eastward to nearby Shodoshima, the Inland Sea's second-largest island. It is a fascinating place, with thriving local industries producing some of the best soy sauce and olive oil in Japan, and there are beautiful art installations on the island worth visiting. In a sense, Shodoshima is like a microcosm of Shikoku, with its own 88-temple pilgrimage route and spectacular natural formations like Kankakei Gorge that make this island a real jewel of the Inland Sea.

For more on Shodoshima, see our write-up on our website: Exploring the Quiet Pulse of the Seto Inland Sea.

Are you planning your trip to Japan? Contact us from the link in bio.

With the Setouchi Triennale currently underway, many visitors to the region naturally have the art islands on their mind...
09/05/2025

With the Setouchi Triennale currently underway, many visitors to the region naturally have the art islands on their minds and itineraries. Wonderful as they are, we recommend veering eastward to nearby Shodoshima, the Inland Sea's second-largest island. There are thriving local industries producing some of the best soy sauce and olive oil in Japan, and there are beautiful art installations on the island worth visiting. In a sense, Shodoshima is like a microcosm of Shikoku, with its own 88-temple pilgrimage route and spectacular natural formations like Kankakei Gorge that make this island a real jewel of the Inland Sea.

For more on this island, see our write-up: Exploring the Quiet Pulse of the Seto Inland Sea.

Planning your trip to Japan? Contact us from the link in bio.

In the rustic temple town of Kita Kamakura, set within a residential patch in the thickets of Yamanouchi, sits the singu...
06/03/2025

In the rustic temple town of Kita Kamakura, set within a residential patch in the thickets of Yamanouchi, sits the singular NIWA–the area’s premier boutique stay. The historic house, beautifully renovated, abuts the mountainside. Besides the property’s irori-equipped sauna, tea house, and outdoor bath, it also features a yagura cave, harkening back to the time Kamakura was the capital of Japan.

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