30/01/2025
Heading east from Mycenae the land gradually rises from the Argos plain. Wild hill country and jagged peaks beyond. Believe it or not, there has been a road heading this way, to the vicinity of the classical healing sanctuary of Epidaurus, for some three and a half thousand years. Seen today in the well-built bridges and tracts of stone lined roadways that still survive.
In those distant days of the Bronze Age, Epidaurus, just like many religious sites of the classical age, must have been an important place too. Seen in archaeology at the hill-top shrine of Apollo Maleateas dating back to the Third Millennium BC, and in myth.
On the other side of Epidaurus to the Argos Plain lies the Saronic Gulf, an integral coastal node to the power of Mycenae, whose tendrils stretched far and wide across the Aegean. Here, on the edge of that great foundational sea, stands the classical port of Epidaurus Limera, where pilgrims and travellers of old arrived from all corners of the known world. Just above town, The tell-tale chamber tombs and even a probable acropolis by the shore suggest Bronze Age predecessors.
Around half way along that roadway linking up the ancient powers, stands perhaps its greatest surviving exemplar. The Bridge at Arkadiko. Still wide enough for a car or chariot to cross over. Its adjacent tholos tomb is one of the most impressive found anywhere in Greece. No doubt the remnants of settlement sites once existed nearby amidst the adjacent lowlands, farmed to oblivion over the past three and a half millennia. But one place remains.
Overlooking one of the most important highways in the entire Mycenaean world, the Kazarma Acropolis still stands guard. Though we know almost nothing about this majestic hill top fortress, coated in Byzantine masonry and classical rubble today as it is, beneath all that almost certainly is to be found a citadel of the age of Agamemnon. Only future excavations may reveal the secrets of this lost citadel of the Bronze Age world.
If you want to learn more you should tune in to my new documentary on Saturday 1st February. It’s over 6 hours long and covers no less than the entire history of the Mycenaean Greek World.