16/10/2024
The surf session you plan for is sometimes not the surf session you get.
The current surf conditions include side shore winds, fog, and a variety of swells with and increasing tide for most of the morning hours.
After giving the local twenty miles a good thorough look, I ended up surfing the first place I had checked earlier. Apparently I will never learn.
My concern with the mornings intersection of wind, swell and tide was that while a rather interesting peak would form and pitch out for a few yards, the rest of the ride was sort of thick and mushy.
If I wanted thick and mushy I would spend more time contemplating my midsection.
I have ridden this type of surf before and the trick is to get in just the right position for that first pitch. The problem being that I end up getting pitched more often as not. Lucky for me I had brought my big UDT fins along with my hand platter. I have decided to call it a hand platter because it's twice the size of and average hand plane. The larger size (13 X 20) let me position myself at that point where the peak would pitch and barrel for those sweet few yards.
You don't always get what you want but some times you get what you need
