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eMontana - Adventure Climbing Online magazine about climbing and adventure. "We love original stories!"
Especially about sandstone climbing and world class Czech climber Adam Ondra. S.

Mitac & J. Freiwald

1923: A group of pioneers came from Poland, which was not yet Poland. And they climbed the King, who was not yet the Kin...
18/10/2023

1923: A group of pioneers came from Poland, which was not yet Poland. And they climbed the King, who was not yet the King, but the Christmas Tower. Delve for a moment into the history of the first Adršpach Tower, which was not even the first. You can't argue with history…
2023: Watch our new video about a centenary ascent of this famous sandstone tower.
Standa and Jakub

1923: They came from Poland, which was not yet Poland. And they climbed the King, who was not yet the King, but the Christmas Tower. Delve for a moment into the history of the first Adršpach Tower, which was not even the first. You can’t argue with history… A HARMLESS ACT History repeats itself...

Yes, meeting Adam Ondra in Ádr climbing with Pete Whittaker is understandable. But to see local legend Špek just next to...
11/10/2023

Yes, meeting Adam Ondra in Ádr climbing with Pete Whittaker is understandable. But to see local legend Špek just next to them, how he is belaying one of the strongest boulderers in the world? Up in the route at the French 5c? This is more from the genre of science fiction...
Read our new interviews with Adam, Pete, Tom Randall, Will Bosi and Špek.
Standa

Yes, meeting Adam Ondra in Ádr climbing with Pete Whittaker is understandable. But to see Špek just next to them, how he is belaying one of the strongest boulderers in the world? Up in the route at the French 5c? This is more from the genre of science fiction. EXCHANGE STAY A dirty training cellar...

"Dude, we've been under a lot more stress than you during this day," Anton's friends at the top of Wilder Kopf were reli...
19/06/2023

"Dude, we've been under a lot more stress than you during this day," Anton's friends at the top of Wilder Kopf were relieved. They waited for him at the top the tower, he shone his headlamp on the sloppy holds, and meanwhile climbed the route of difficulty VIIIc (6b+) by Bernd Arnold and Herbert Richter. Anton soloed his 12th route and the celebration could begin... Similar feelings - a combination of stress and admiration - were shared by the author of this article, as working on this text stirred strong emotions. He wanted to get it done quickly so he could get it out of his head a little. Anyway, the thought will remain, and when you too climb one of these routes, you will probably remember the feat of the 24-year-old medical student... It is, after all, one of the craziest things that ever happened on the sandstone…
Standa
(In the opening photo, Anton free-solos Arnold's "Lineal" IXa (6c+) on the Meurerturm, photo: Gregor Schröter)

„I TOOK IT AS A CELEBRATORY DAY, SO I DRESSED ACCORDINGLY. DURING SOLOING, YOU CLIMB LIKE YOU’RE DANCING. YOU’RE GRACEFUL AND YOU’RE ENGAGING A LOT OF FOCUS AND SENSES. „SO I CHOSE MY WHITE H**P SHIRT…“ ANTON SCHRÖTER DANCED CLOSE TO HIS LIMIT… TO ENTRUST LIFE TO THE SANDSTONE Tick ...

They adapted their lives to climbing. They do the same thing, yet they both live very different lives. Eliška Adamovská ...
05/06/2023

They adapted their lives to climbing. They do the same thing, yet they both live very different lives. Eliška Adamovská trains three times a day, her schedule is packed from early morning until evening. She's working towards a nomination for the Paris Olympics. Anča Šebestíková is always somewhere in the mountains and says about her training, "For my goals, I actually just need to be really good at climbing outside."
Enjoy our new article about being top competition or trad climber,
Standa

One is waiting for an expedition to Pakistan, the other is training for the Olympics in Paris. Anička Šebestíková and Eliška Adamovská are united by their high commitment to the same sport. And yet they have completely different lifestyles… SAME SPORT, DIFFERENT LIFE Doing a joint interview ...

"They say Nico is up there," the rumour spread through the wall. And indeed, after a while, the headlamp and the shaggy ...
10/05/2023

"They say Nico is up there," the rumour spread through the wall. And indeed, after a while, the headlamp and the shaggy hair of the Belgian climber emerged from the darkness...
How is he? Read a short article about meeting a bigwall legend Nico Favresse. Frantisek Bulicka (the author of the text) had the luck to spend few days with him.
Standa

Smoking pot behind a restaurant with Grandpa Chongo bouldering with Beth Rodden and her talented son, or Pepa’s encounter with Alex Honnold and his wife Sanni. In Yosemite, one can never run out of famous climbers to meet. You just never know exactly how to act when someone like that appears righ...

"I'm glad the 'Fish' is getting more repeats, but it shouldn't be underestimated. It's still hard, technical alpinism. O...
15/03/2023

"I'm glad the 'Fish' is getting more repeats, but it shouldn't be underestimated. It's still hard, technical alpinism. On the Marmolada an 8+/9- feels also a little different," laughs the first-ascentionist from the 1981 Igor Koller. Watch our new video from the series Lines and their Stories that we shot in the Dolomites. About 1200 meters of climbing...

Get inspired for your climbing season,
Standa, Jakub and Lukas

„I’m glad the ‚Fish‘ is getting more repeats, but it shouldn’t be underestimated. It’s still hard, technical alpinism. On the Marmolada an 8+/9- is also a little different,“ laughs the first-ascentionist Igor Koller. 1200 METERS WITH NO BOLTS The second night that we spent on the wall ...

Three ringbolts for 70 meters of climbing doesn’t seem much – but some climbers just love it airy. Markéta Dařinová and ...
23/11/2022

Three ringbolts for 70 meters of climbing doesn’t seem much – but some climbers just love it airy. Markéta Dařinová and Terka Dudová climbed one of the iconic Elbe classic routes from the 70s. Who made the first ascent of the route and how did it get its name that translates as “ferryman’s wrath”? Read our new article and watch the new original video.
Standa

Three ringbolts for 70 meters of climbing doesn’t seem much – but some climbers just love it airy. Markéta Dařinová and Terka Dudová climbed one of the iconic Elbe classic routes. Who made the first ascent of the route and how did it get its name that translates as “ferryman’s wrath”? ...

The verdict was clear: “You've spent too much time in Yosemite.” In 2005, climbers filled the courtroom to support their...
31/10/2022

The verdict was clear: “You've spent too much time in Yosemite.” In 2005, climbers filled the courtroom to support their beloved guru. Still, the pioneer of slacklining and developer of intricate bigwall techniques was evicted from his home. Where is he in 2022? Read the investigative report prepared by Denisa Krásná.
Standa

The verdict was clear: “You’ve spent too much time in Yosemite.” In 2005, climbers filled the courtroom to support their beloved guru. Still, the pioneer of slacklining and developer of bigwall techniques was evicted from his home. Where is he in 2022? FEED THE CAT I traveled to Yosemite in M...

Elbe Valley and Elbsandstein. These two world-class sandstone climbing areas are located in close vicinity (the Czech Re...
22/09/2022

Elbe Valley and Elbsandstein. These two world-class sandstone climbing areas are located in close vicinity (the Czech Republic and Saxony), yet, people usually talk about each of them separately. It almost feels like if these areas had nothing in common and were located in different galaxies...
It might seems so but the goal of this article is definitely not to build walls between climbers and areas. In fact, it strives to do the exact opposite!
Read our new piece written by Vondřej Horáček and enjoy climbing on both sides of the border,
Standa

Elbe Valley and Elbsandstein.These two world-class sandstone climbing areas are located in close vicinity, yet, people usually talk about each of them separately. It almost feels like if these areas had nothing in common and were located in different galaxies… HISTORY VS. PRESENT If you want an ex...

Sam Maštálko trying one of the oldest 7c+ in the world. More here:https://www.emontana-magazine.com/alter-traum-oybin-at...
19/09/2022

Sam Maštálko trying one of the oldest 7c+ in the world. More here:
https://www.emontana-magazine.com/alter-traum-oybin-attempt/
The slightly overhanging ‘Alter Traum’ (RP Xb, 7c+ approx.) in Zittauer Gebirge (Saxony, Germany) was first ascended by Werner Schönlebe in 1982. “It’s also pretty deserving of the grade, considering that it’s the first Xa on sandstones,’ says Honza Kendík, who we filmed during an attempt in August this year.
We plan to head back to Oybin to film once more in the autumn – for a third time, hopefully with better friction.
Standa
(photo: Standa Mitac)

Stories about doing hard sport routes on the brink of what is possible usually revolve around the climber. This one, how...
22/06/2022

Stories about doing hard sport routes on the brink of what is possible usually revolve around the climber. This one, however, is not just a narration through the eyes of Zen-master Mišo Burian, but also his belayer Katja and the crew who filmed him... "Betom" (XIc/8c), one of the hardest modern climbs in the Elbe Sandstones.
Standa

“It’s been almost a year so far – it takes patience” This route with four bolts also requires good friction. “If you’re able to get yourself in a good state of mind, you’ll be able to climb it. Just like anything.” BE + TOM The idea was born about five years ago in the pub ‘U Ko...

Güllich, Steck, Edlinger, Huber, Hirayama... “ Wow, I can see them climbing! And they can become my friends.” When young...
01/06/2022

Güllich, Steck, Edlinger, Huber, Hirayama... “ Wow, I can see them climbing! And they can become my friends.” When young Toni Arbonés started climbing in the 90s, he was stoked beyond any measure. “No food? No problem. The only thing that mattered was spending time at the crag.” Not much has changed since then... Read our new interview with Toni Arbonès – true father of sport climbing in Siurana, Catalonia.
Standa

Güllich, Steck, Edlinger, Huber, Hirayama… “ Wow, I can see them climbing! And they can become my friends.” When young Toni Arbonés started climbing in the 90s, he was stoked beyond any measure. “No food? No problem. The only thing that mattered was spending time at the crag.” Not much...

From one crack to another. Rosa Windelband in the classic "Bergfinkenweg" VIIIb (6b) from the post-war era (Karlheinz Go...
16/05/2022

From one crack to another. Rosa Windelband in the classic "Bergfinkenweg" VIIIb (6b) from the post-war era (Karlheinz Gonda and Gerhard Junghans, 1949), Rokokoturm, Elbe Sandstones. Read more about these bold climbs here:
https://www.emontana-magazine.com/meisterwegs-sandstone-saxony/
Happy climbing,
Standa (author of the picture)

Unlike Europe, there is no cutting edge climbing gear or mountain rescue in Pakistan's Karakoram. What the Pakistanis la...
27/04/2022

Unlike Europe, there is no cutting edge climbing gear or mountain rescue in Pakistan's Karakoram. What the Pakistanis lack in equipment, however, they make up for in enthusiasm. Last year, James Price spent three months in the region: climbing big lines while teaching the locals basic technical skills. There was no organisation funding his efforts, no sponsors – just hard earned savings.
For his altruistic approach, inspirational climbs and philosophy on his Karakoram expedition he earned our annual “Big Heart” 2021 prize.
Enjoy reading,
Jakub

Unlike Europe, there is no cutting edge climbing gear or mountain rescue in Pakistan’s Karakoram. What the Pakistanis lack in equipment, however, they make up for in enthusiasm. Last year, James Price spent three months in the region: climbing big lines while teaching the locals basic technica...

Climbing season in Adrspach begins this weekend on Sunday. Climbers can start their crack adventures from the 1st of May...
25/04/2022

Climbing season in Adrspach begins this weekend on Sunday. Climbers can start their crack adventures from the 1st of May (the central part of the area). The rest of the rocks opens on the 1st of July – as every year. How does the climbing feel like? Read here:
https://www.emontana-magazine.com/first-time-climbing-in-adrspach/
Good luck, Standa
(Šimon Janošec in Cikán’s route „Čardáš“ VIIIb/6c fr. Photo: Standa Mitáč)

Czech climber Pavel Krupka has climbed all the Saxon sandstone towers (There are 1100 of them). Recently he added his cl...
11/04/2022

Czech climber Pavel Krupka has climbed all the Saxon sandstone towers (There are 1100 of them). Recently he added his climb number 20 000.
Read a short interview with Pavel here:
“Trying To Have the Most Ascents Is Not What Climbing Is About,” Said Someone Who Has Done 20,000
https://www.emontana-magazine.com/pavel-krupka-collecting-sandstone-towers/
Enjoy your day,
Standa
(towers Rohnspitze and Domwächter, Affensteine. Climber Jarda Marsik in „Direkte N-W Kante“ RP Xa on tower Rohnspitze. Photo: Pavel Zofka)

Have you read our new interview with Swiss crack climbing legend Didier Berthod?https://www.emontana-magazine.com/ave-ca...
05/04/2022

Have you read our new interview with Swiss crack climbing legend Didier Berthod?
https://www.emontana-magazine.com/ave-caesar-portalet-7c-didier-berthod-interview/
We were talking about his bold route "Ave Caesar" on Petit Clocher du Portalet, about the 10 years he'd spent in the monastery and about his future personal challenges.
Does he see any relation between climbing and spirituality?
"When I’m climbing I feel like an artist. Generally, I always strived to do beautiful things. I don’t want to waste my energy on doing nonsense. I want to do things that matter and are great, full of love, ethical… I also always make sure to spend enough time with my friends. I want to be more human through climbing. And then to use climbing experience in my daily life. Climbing to make others happy. (he laughs) I simply like to do things my way. Follow my own way through this world. I like sharing everything and showing people the beauty in this world. And the values…

Jesus Christ set us free. And many people do not get that he even set us free the reins of religion… Catholicism used just the truths that were handy and, once again, built an institutionalized religion… I think many people misinterpret the original Christian message. Of course, I am a catholic priest, but I still think that each of our lives is a mystery of its own kind."

Read more at eMontana Magazine,
Standa

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