07/12/2021
[2/3] Grenache took off in South Australia largely because of the similar Mediterranean adjacent climate and for many decades was the most planted variety in the entire country.
Grenache was first brought to Australia by famed viticulturist James Busby, along with several other varieties, in 1832. It was quickly adopted by winemakers in South Australia after vines were planted in the Barossa, McLaren Vale and
Clare Valley.
“Grenache is thin-skinned, early-budding, late-ripening, and well suited to hot, dry climates like most of South Australia. There are some more than 100-year-old, own-rooted bush vines. A legacy of the country’s former fortified stronghold,” said Kustos.
In the early days of the Australian wine industry, when a majority of the product was fortifieds, Grenache was amongst the most widely used varieties due to its high yield when grown as an un-trellised bush vine.
“Grenache used to be the work horse variety for fortified wine production,” Kustos said.
“It grew all over the country and was a winemaker’s darling due to its high crop/yield ability. However, if the vine is irrigated and cropped heavily, it may lose these characteristics. Not surprisingly, Grenache became synonymous with mass produced, diluted red wines.”
Judy Kelly, co-owner of the Adelaide Hills based Artwine Estate, specialises in alternative varieties and has several Grenache vines in the Clare Valley.
“We have beautiful old dry-grown bush vines on our Clare Valley vineyard that we believe are a hundred years old,”
she said.
As tastes changed and table wine began to rise to prominence, attention shifted to cooler regions that specialised in varieties like Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.
After a dip in popularity in the ‘70s, the government encouraged producers to pull their vines and either replace them with varieties that were more in vogue, or clear the land for development. Thankfully, many producers opted
not to.
“Clare Valley only started keeping records of vines planted in 1932 – so prior to that we are unsure but believe they were planted before then and fortunately survived the government encouragement vine pull of the ‘80s,” Kelly continued.
“Grenache, like many reds, needs warmth to ripen so Clare Valley to us is perfect. It’s slightly cooler but the vines are extremely happy in their environment and being dry-grown makes them sustainable.
“We believe that old vine Grenache is superior to any younger vines and fortunately SA is blessed with many old bush vine vineyards.”
Since 2010, a change in style has led Grenache to re-enter the forefront of South Australian winemaking.
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Grenache Uncorked: A varietal renaissance
Read FREE online: www.winetitles.com.au/grenache-uncorked-a-varietal-renaissance/
The story of Grenache is not dissimilar from that of the ugly duckling. It was long misunderstood but has seen a resurgence in recent years that has brought it to the forefront of Australian winemaking. Journalist Harrison Davies explores how the stars aligned for this long ignored variety to enter the spotlight.
Subscribers to the Grapegrower & Winemaker can read the Uncorked in full each month online and in print. Subscribe online here: www.winetitles.com.au/gwm