31/07/2025
In the sun-drenched soils of McLaren Vale and the cool, rolling hills of Gumeracha, Mediterranean grapes have found new ground - and a new voice.
This edition of our Winemaker Focus turns to Stephen Pannell - one of Australia’s most thoughtful, forward-facing producers. Under his two labels, S.C. Pannell and prōterō, he explores what happens when Mediterranean varieties meet South Australian terroir.
At S.C. Pannell, McLaren Vale’s coastal warmth and ancient geology echo the landscapes of the southern Mediterranean coast. Fiano, Nero d’Avola, Grenache - these aren’t just suited to the region, they thrive in it. The result is wines with balance, texture, and real Mediterranean soul - made not to imitate, but to respond - to their climate, their site and their table.
Further inland, at prōterō, the conversation shifts to elevation. Gumeracha’s cool days and long ripening season draw comparisons to the hills of Piemonte. Here, Nebbiolo takes centre stage. Five clones, planted in 1999, now yield wines of fine-boned structure and quiet power - a study in tannin, restraint, and site expression.
These are wines shaped by sun and soil, but also by philosophy. They ask questions. They evolve in the glass. And like their Mediterranean cousins, they shine brightest alongside food, friends, and slow afternoons.
Available by the glass, 375ml or bottle. Salute.
