12/12/2025
Urdini Lakes and Zeleni Rid Loop Hike
⛰️ INTRO ⛰️
If you are a time-pressed hiker exploring Bulgaria’s Rila National Park, chances are you have opted for the Seven Rila Lakes hike. No one will blame you for this. These glacial lakes—along with Rila Monastery, Musala and Malyovitsa—are perhaps among the most popular natural sites in Rila and the whole of Bulgaria. And for good reason. The cirque where the lakes flaunt their shades of blue is a place of ineffable natural beauty and grandeur. I myself have visited them multiple times and would not hesitate to admire them again at a future opportunity.
However, over the last decade or so, the Seven Rila Lakes seem to have fallen prey to their splendour and popularity. In summer, they can get overrun by hordes of tourists and hikers from far and wide. Queues for the chairlift can be ludicrously long. Do not be surprised if you are approached by a friendly, or downright dodgy, local who offers you a 4x4 ride to the trailhead at a somewhat steep price while you are standing in line. And later, when you reach the shores of the lakes, it can get crowded and noisy. While most visitors are generally respectful, there are some who would not scruple to swim in the lakes (which is strictly prohibited for a number of legitimate reasons), leave behind garbage, plastic bags or cigarette butts, listen to loud music on their Bluetooth speakers and behave in a rather boisterous manner.
If you have come here at the height of summer in search of solitude and peaceful communion with nature, you may find yourself in the wrong place. Luckily, Rila is replete with beautiful glacial lakes which cluster together in jaw-dropping cirques scattered across the mountain’s length and breadth. Better yet, they remain under most visitors’ radar. One such group of lakes is the Urdini Lakes. Wild, secluded and not nearly as accessible, they are a great alternative to the famed Seven Rila Lakes. If you return via Zeleni Rid (Green Ridge) rather than retrace your footsteps, you will be treated to more beautiful views.
In this post, I will give you detailed practical information about a 1-day loop hike I did last summer—as well as some personal reminiscences of these overlooked yet magnificent gems.
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🌲 WHY YOU SHOULD GO? 🌲
Hands down, this is among the best hikes I have ever treated myself to in Rila. It introduces you to a corner of the mountain where visitors are few and far between—truly wild and remote.
Throughout the hike, you are surrounded by pristine nature, and your senses are never at rest as the trail unfolds through varied terrain: dense forests, a rumbling river, placid purling brooks, a gloomy narrow ravine, a verdant flower-strewn valley, waterfalls, the six dark blue glacial Urdini Lakes, and, once you have climbed up to Razdela, endless breathtaking vistas towards Malyovitsa, one of Rila’s most rugged sections, the Seven Rila Lakes, the two Chanakgyolski Lakes, the pointed peak of Haramiyata, Otovitsa Ridge and the distant silhouettes of Golyam Kalin and Malak Kalin.
If you are lucky enough, you may even spot a herd of timid yet inquisitive chamois which will keep a watchful eye on you from afar.
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💡 PRACTICAL INFORMATION 💡
↗️ Elevation gain: 1,690 m
↘️ Elevation loss: 1,704 m
↔️ Distance: 31.6 km
🏔️ Altitude range: 1,519 m—2,646 m
🥾 Difficulty: It depends on your fitness level but I would say the hike is hard due to the long distance and high elevation gain and loss. Good physical fitness and endurance are necessary. There is no loose scree or scrambling, nor perilous sheer precipices. Some sections however are rather steep and could get muddy and slippery in rainy weather.
🔰 Trail markings: The trail is well-marked with visible trail blazes except for the section in the Urdina River Valley and the Urdini Lakes cirque. Still, even there, it is easy to follow and see despite the lack of marking. Nevertheless, I would recommend using GPS and/or bringing a good old paper map.
⏱️ Total moving time (no rest): 9 hours 12 minutes
🕰️ Total time (with rest, meals and photography): 12 hours 49 minutes. It is worth noting that I am a very slow hiker. I love taking my time snapping photos and looking for different angles, savouring the views, snacking and generally enjoying myself insofar as conditions allow. Therefore, the hike could take you much less time provided you keep a brisk pace and avoid dawdling unnecessarily. Still, regardless of your pace, you should dedicate a full day to it.
🟫 Trail surface: At the very start, there is a short section of asphalt road. From then on, it is mostly soft earth. There are occasional sections of slightly loose stones which may vary in size. Note that in the Urdina River Valley the trail follows the river closely, at times running right beside it. Numerous streams on both slopes of the valley flow into the main river. So, after heavy rain or during the spring thaw, I assume the trail and the adjoining meadows might get soggy and squelchy.
⚠️ Dangerous sections: The trail generally follows a safe course. It does not traverse dangerous sections or loose scree nor does it run on the edge of sheer cliffs. There are two notable exceptions, though. Firstly, the narrow, steep ravine between Yavorova Polyana and the upper, exposed part of the Urdina River Valley is prone to avalanches. In a famous accident on 7 February 1983, an avalanche there killed some special forces officers while they were going on a ten-day winter camping trip. Today, you can still see the memorial at the exact spot. Bear this in mind if you attempt the hike in winter. The second treacherous section is roughly just 3—4 meters long and is situated between Lake Malkata Panitsa and Lake Triagalnika—approximately here: 42.17561° N, 23.32781° E. The trail hugs a very steep stone slope where extra caution and sure-footedness are strongly advised.
🏕️ Gear: No rock climbing gear is necessary. This is just a hike on a trail. Still, make sure you wear adequate clothing and comfortable hiking shoes that you have already broken in. I am not going to list the gear items you should bring. I leave this to your discretion, mountaineering experience and knowledge. I just advise that you bring everything necessary depending on the season and weather conditions. Once again, you will have to be self-sufficient for a whole day as this area is remote and rarely explored by visitors. Rescue teams and huts may be hours away.
☀️ 🍂 Best time of year: Summer and early autumn. I did this hike on 6 July 2024. The weather was excellent and the meadows in the Urdina Valley were clad in luxuriant verdure and strewn with brightly colored wild flowers. It was stunning. Regardless of when you come, always check the weather forecast in advance. Needless to say, the weather in the mountains can undergo dramatic change in a matter of minutes. Even at the height of summer.
🚰 Drinking water: Throughout most of the hike—except for the Zeleni Rid section—water is abundant. There is the Urdina River racing down the valley, there are the numerous streams that feed it and, of course, the six Urdini Lakes.
HOWEVER, whether this water is safe to drink I am NOT qualified to say. Since I was unsure and had no water purification tablets or filters in my backpack, I saw fit to err on the side of caution. So, I refrained from drinking from the abundant water sources. Nature may be pristine but this is no guarantee that the water is not contaminated with disease-causing germs. For example, herds of horses roam free in the mountain and take good care to fertilize it!
I brought 3 liters of water which proved to be insufficient. By the end of the hike, I was already severely dehydrated and weak and, oh, how I craved reaching a spot where I could refill my bottle and gulp as much as I could!
You can fill your bottles or bladders at the water fountain in front of Malyovitsa Central Mountain School, known in Bulgarian as “ЦПШ Мальовица” (42.21021° N, 23.38846° E) where the hike begins, or, ideally, bring your own.
🍫 Food: There is a restaurant at the Alpinist Hotel (42.21041° N, 23.38835° E). But, firstly, I have never tried it; secondly, according to Google Maps, it opens at 08:00 a.m., which might be a bit too late for such a long hike; and last but not least, I do not find it judicious to lug restaurant portions around mountain trails. Therefore, plan well and bring your own food. The hike is long and hard, so you will need calories aplenty. There are no places on the trail where you can buy food.
🧭 🗺️ Navigation: While markings are generally good and following the trail is mostly straightforward, there are junctions where the path diverges and you may take the wrong direction. So, I strongly recommend bringing a GPS device or a paper map or using a hiking GPS app on your phone. I find my bearings with a paper map and an app called OsmAnd Maps. Make sure you download your maps so you can use them offline—mobile signal is unreliable.
⛺ Shelters and huts: There is the Alpinist Hotel at Malyovitsa Central Mountain School (42.21041° N, 23.38835° E). This is where the hike begins. There are two rough-and-ready shelters along the trail. One is in the Urdina River Valley and is right next to the trail. You cannot miss it. Unfortunately, I am unable to share its geographic coordinates as it is not shown on the map. If you need to see what it looks like, check out my post about the Urdina Valley. I included two photos of it. The other shelter is situated on the ridge of Zeleni Rid and is called “Kire Chougouno” or “Кире Чугуно” in Bulgarian (42.20639° N, 23.35861° E). It is not situated by the side of the trail but it is very close to it and you will not miss that one either. Some years ago, it was renovated and rumour has it that it is quite cozy. The views from here towards Vitosha and Lakatishka Rila are spectacular.
There are no huts on this route. The closest huts are:
1. Vada Hut (Bulgarian: хижа „Вада“): 42.22840° N, 23.36296° E;
2. Ivan Vazov Hut (Bulgarian: хижа „Иван Вазов“): 42.18968° N, 23.28337° E;
3. Malyovitsa Hut (Bulgarian: хижа „Мальовица“): 42.18873° N, 23.37428° E;
4. Seven Lakes Hut (Bulgarian: хижа „Седемте езера“ or хижа „7-те езера“): 42.20758° N, 23.32408° E;
5. Rilski Ezera Hut (Bulgarian: хижа „Рилски езера“): 42.21984° N, 23.32168° E.
Once again, they are not on the trail or even close to it. They are a few hours away. Nonetheless, this information may come in handy in case of an emergency or inclement weather.
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⛰️ ROUTE ⛰️
The hike comprises the following 5 stages:
➤ STAGE 1: Malyovitsa Central Mountain School > Yavorova Polyana
➤ STAGE 2: Yavorova Polyana > Urdina Valley > Lake Golyamata Panitsa
➤ STAGE 3: Lakes: Golyamata Panitsa > Lake Botanicheskoto Ezero > Lake Malkata Panitsa > Lake Triagalnika > Lake Souhoto Ezero > Lake Ribno Ezero.
➤ STAGE 4: Lake Ribno Ezero > Zeleni Kamak > Razdela (and a bit beyond).
➤ STAGE 5: Return: Razdela > Zeleni Kamak > Kire Chougouno Shelter > Yavorova Polyana > Malyovitsa Central Mountain School.
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1️⃣ STAGE 1
Distance: 3 km
Elevation gain: 4 m
Elevation loss: 191 m
The hike begins at Malyovitsa Central Mountain School (42.21021° N, 23.38846° E). The best way to get there is undoubtedly by car. At least, I did it thus. I made an early start from Sofia where I live, drove for approximately 1 h 40 minutes, left the car at the parking lot and set off. You can also take a bus from Sofia to Samokov. To the best of my knowledge, there are some minibuses which can take you from Samokov Bus Station to Malyovitsa Central Mountain School. But do not take my word for it. Information online is scarce and contradictory. So, do your research well in advance!
Once you set off, you need to retrace your steps a little—walk back for 400 meters along the paved road where you came from. On your left, an obscure path towards Vada Hut hides shyly in the trees roughly here: 42.21419° N, 23.38611° E. You can easily miss it, so keep your eyes peeled. It is marked with red and blue blazes. Leave the paved road and take that path. Initially, it descends but soon it levels out. The markings are well-maintained and visible and following the trail is a breeze. Keep following it until you reach Yavorova Polyana (42.22068° N, 23.37409° E). Here, you will find wooden tables and benches, so you can take a breather ahead of the steep ascent.
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2️⃣ STAGE 2
Distance: 7.33 km
Elevation gain: 802 m
Elevation loss: 51 m
So far the trail markings have been red and blue. Here, at Yavorova Polyana, the trail branches off: the right-hand branch has red markings and leads you to Vada Hut whereas the left-hand branch has blue markings and takes you to the Urdina River Valley. Make sure you take the left-hand branch—the one with blue markings.
Keep following the trail for around 0.5 km until you reach another important junction roughly here: 42.21650° N, 23.37401° E. The right-hand branch has blue markings and takes you to Zeleni Rid (Green Ridge). The one on the left has no markings. This is the one you have to take. It will lead you to the Urdina River Valley. Of course, since this is a loop hike, you can go right and ascend Zeleni Rid first and then descend via Urdini Lakes and the Urdina River Valley. However, I started with the Urdina River Valley as I had heard ascending Zeleni Rid can feel like a never-ending slog.
In a few minutes you will reach a wooden bridge. Go over it and across the river. Congratulations! You are now in the Urdina River Valley and this is where the true ascent commences. Throughout this stage the trail follows closely the meandering course of the Urdina River. There is no marking but the trail is well-trodden and easy to see.
Initially, the incline is steep. You will negotiate the trail’s curves in what feels like the bottom of a narrow gloomy forested ravine wedged between two high ridges—Zeleni Rid on your right and the Kalboura Ridge on your left. Until you are above the tree line, you will be enveloped by thick shade and cool bracing air. The river will be racing down on your right in a deafening rumble sending spray high into the air and occasionally onto the trail itself.
Once you are above the tree line, the terrain turns gentler. If you are doing the hike in summer, your eyes will be rewarded bountifully: verdant high-mountain meadows strewn with wildflowers of all hues imaginable; the limpid Urdina River, which, due to the gentler incline here, flows serenely in its shallow, sinuous basin; the tiny brooks that feed into it; the odd waterfall splashing in ceaseless revelry onto the rocks; the two ridges framing the valley, their cliffs towering on both sides; the distant peaks ahead, towards which you stride steadily.
And I had this entire cornucopia of natural splendour all to myself. Not a living soul was in sight save for a herd of chamois that kept scrutinizing me from a safe distance and then inadvertently sent small rocks rolling down the slope in their exuberant prancing and frolicking. The Urdina River Valley is pristine and secluded and, in all honesty, it is one of the most magnificent places I have seen in Bulgaria to this day. A minuscule paradise offering balm and tender caresses to an aching soul enervated by Sofia’s noise, hustle, bustle, and toxic fumes. To get a foretaste of the valley and what awaits you there, check out my earlier post about the Urdina River Valley: https://tinyurl.com/mr3tbsmu.
Towards the end of this stage, the trail becomes a bit steeper but only for a short while. Once you rise to the challenge, the first of the Urdini Lakes bursts upon you as if out of the blue. Here, plant your feet firmly in the ground, turn around and take in the behemoth of a valley sprawled beneath you. This is where you came from and now you deserve to pat yourself on the head for the feat you have just pulled off.
This marks the beginning of the third stage of your hike.
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3️⃣ STAGE 3
Distance: 2.77 km
Elevation gain: 179 m
Elevation loss: 111 m
Now, the trail will acquaint you intimately with the Urdini Lakes.
The first time I caught sight of the lakes—and consequently spent considerable time admiring them, mouth agape, beguiled by their unpretentious beauty—had been some eleven years earlier. I had been in my mid-twenties, had already made my fair share of unwise juvenile decisions and an important life-changing event was set to take place a week later. I was a bit nervous. Quite naturally, I had felt an insurmountable urge to flee to the mountains and roam and ruminate in solitude for three days straight. As I was thus bringing order to my agitated mind ahead of the momentous occasion, I summited Damga Peak, and the Urdini Lakes peered up at me from some 300 meters below. Thus perched at 2,670 meters on that brisk morning, I made a solemn pledge that I would one day visit their shores.
And visit them I did.
Urdini Lakes constitute a group of six glacial lakes situated in a cirque in Rila’s northwest. They lie undisturbed at the foot of the ridge which runs in a slight curve all the way from Razdela (42.19149° N, 23.31686° E) to Malyovitsa (42.17382° N, 23.36302° E) not far from the Seven Rila Lakes. Depending on the map or GPS app you use, the lakes go by different names. The list below shows their names in Bulgarian and their English transliterations, along with their geographic coordinates, and in the order you see them on this loop hike, provided you started with the Urdina River Valley and descended via Zeleni Rid:
🔷 Golyamata Panitsa (Bulgarian: Голямата паница): 42.17777° N, 23.32948° E
🔷 Botanicheskoto Ezero / Oudavnika / Oudavniko (Bulgarian: Ботаническото езеро / Удавника / Удавнико): 42.17602° N, 23.33230° E
🔷 Malkata Panitsa (Bulgarian: Малката паница): 42.17440° N, 23.32908° E
🔷 Triagalnika (Bulgarian: Триъгълника): 42.17857° N, 23.32294° E
🔷 Souhoto Ezero / Plitkacho (Bulgarian: Сухото езеро / Плиткачо): 42.18511° N, 23.33322° E
🔷 Ribno Ezero / Ezero Damga / Damgsko Ezero (Bulgarian: Рибно езеро / езеро Дамга / Дамгско езеро): 42.18569° N, 23.32580° E.
Lake Golyamata Panitsa is the lowest and largest of the six and is the first one to welcome you to the cirque. At one end, the lake drains through a narrow groove in the ground, tumbling into a raucous waterfall that rushes down the valley to join the other tributaries of the Urdina River. Its dark-blue waters coruscate regally as the wind stirs languid ripples across its surface. This, together with your tired feet, may tempt you into sitting and having your first real rest. Snugly ensconced between steep slopes, the lake, however, offers no level ground. So, resist the urge to stop, however sore the need to do so may feel, unless you are willing to chase your lunch as it rolls down towards the water. Instead, muster some more strength and follow the trail to the shores of the second lake—Botanicheskoto, also known as Oudavnika or Oudavniko.
Here, you are granted more favourable conditions for a proper meal: the shores slope gently, rocks have given way to soft grass, and to top it all, you are rewarded with a vertiginous vista towards the Urdina River Valley and the jagged peaks of Rila’s Malyovitsa section. Absolutely ideal!
Once you have gobbled up your lunch, continue upwards.The trail leads you up to Lake Malkata Panitsa and after that to Lake Triagalnika. Another short yet steep ascent ensues. Before you know it you find yourself huffing and puffing at the eastern shore of Lake Ribno Ezero at the foot of Damga Peak.
If you want to reach the shores of Lake Souhoto Ezero, you would have to leave the main trail and turn right roughly at this junction: 42.18535° N, 23.32623° E. Then hike for 670 meters to the lake and then retrace your steps to Ribno Ezero. You have now returned to the main trail. Since the afternoon was well underway and I was running out of water, I saw fit to skip Souhoto Ezero and continue towards Zeleni Kamak and Razdela.
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4️⃣ STAGE 4
Distance: 2.6 km
Elevation gain: 308 m
Elevation loss: 18 m
Now brace yourself for a tough climb: you will have to gain about 220 meters of elevation over a single kilometer. To me that was the most arduous section of the whole hike: it was ruthlessly steep and I was already sapped and parched.
But once you manage to slog your way up to the crest, all hard ascents for this hike will be behind you. You are now on Zeleni Rid!
Pause for a few minutes to give credit to your stamina and the stunning panoramic views. Look south and you will see the Urdini Lakes gleaming tranquilly far below yourself at the foot of the curved ridge stretching from Damga Peak to Dodov Vrah and Malyovitsa. Look north and you will be greeted by the two Chanakgyolski Lakes snuggling cosily in the afternoon shadow cast by Haramiyata’s pointed pinnacle. Look east to see Zeleni Kamak (42.19229° N, 23.33107° E), a somewhat inconspicuous rounded peak shooting up on your right.
Here, you have a choice:
☑️ You turn right and embark on the long descent back to Malyovitsa Central Mountain School.
OR
✅ You turn left and hike for about 2 kilometers on an easy path towards Razdela (42.19149° N, 23.31686° E) and a little beyond for a beautiful view towards the Seven Rila Lakes, then you backtrack to Zeleni Kamak and embark on the descent to Malyovitsa Central Mountain School.
Since I had not been to the Seven Rila Lakes for years, I went for the second option. I really wanted to catch a glimpse of them.
I trotted off in a hurry as it was getting late. Moving here felt like effortless ultrafast gliding compared to the slow progress I had made down in the valley and the cirque. In no time, I reached Razdela.
Razdela is a vast rounded saddle where multiple ridges and mountain trails intersect. Otivishki Rid, Malyovishki Rid and Zeleni Rid converge at this very point as well as trails that can take you to various parts of Rila’s northwestern section: the Seven Rila Lakes; Ivan Vazov Hut and the two jagged peaks called Golyam Kalin and Malak Kalin that tower opposite the hut; Rila Monastery; Malyovitsa Hut; peaks along the Otovishki Rid; the Chanakgyolski and Urdini Lakes; the Urdina River Valley.
For the best views of the Seven Rila Lakes, however, you should venture a bit further than Razdela, along Otovishki Rid. The furthest I got was here: 42.19431° N, 23.31178° E. If you continue further along Otovishki Rid, you will get views towards the lakes from a different angle.
I didn’t. With the afternoon wearing on, I had to turn back and head for my car via Zeleni Rid.
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5️⃣ STAGE 5
Distance: 12.3 km
Elevation gain: 202 m
Elevation loss: 1137 m
On the way down, pressed by severe thirst, a critically low supply of water, and a day dying fast in a fiery sunset spectacle, I resolved to gallop as fast as I could. That proved to be easier said than done. Zeleni Rid offers some of the best views towards Rila’s Malyovitsa section. The jagged, precipitous cliffs were painted yellow and eventually red by the sun’s sunset brush and, together with Zeleni Rid’s green meadows and the grazing herds of horses, formed a majestic masterpiece. Towering right across the Urdina River Valley, they looked so close but also sufficiently far for one to get a proper panorama of the whole string of peaks. I paused multiple times and uttered endless gasps of admiration.
As you lose elevation, grass and rock give way to higher vegetation, then to juniper and mountain pine that extend their arthritic boughs across the trail, intent on snagging your shoelaces and trousers or tripping you over.
Right before you dive into the forest, there is a welcome sight—the Kire Chougouno shelter (42.20639° N, 23.35861° E). It is a tiny cabin with a bench outside and a view towards Lakatishka Rila and Vitosha. I wished I had taken more water, my rug and a sleeping bag. I would have had a mighty memorable night sleeping there on my own.
Once you go below the tree line, the slope becomes steep and trying on the knees. To me, it felt endless. The trail finally levels out once you reach the junction I mentioned in Stage 2 (approximately here: 42.21650° N, 23.37401° E). Now, turn left and you should recognize the path. This is the path you came from before you crossed the small wooden bridge on your way to the Urdina River Valley. It will take you back to Yavorova Polyana.
Again, Yavorova Polyana is a junction. Take the right turn (blue and red markings) towards Malyovitsa. The left branch (red marking) takes you to Vada Hut and this is NOT where you are going.
Keep following the red and blue markings until you cross the Malyovitsa River over the bridge. Now, there is another junction here: 42.21801° N, 23.38348° E. It is barely noticeable and is easy to miss. At least, I missed it and had to retrace my footsteps. At this junction, turn right (blue and red markings). The trail gets steep but this is the final effort. Shortly, you emerge on the asphalt road. Once there, turn right and keep walking on it until you reach Malyovitsa Central Mountain School.
If you are parched and have completely run out of water, you can refill your bottle at the water fountain in front of the Alpinist Hotel.
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