21/08/2026
Day 1230 of full time vanlife
Our time in this incredible country will soon be over, but not before perhaps our favourite area so far - the Arolla valley in Val d'Hérens.
Checked into our campsite - once again very impressed, and while we don’t normally spend so much on camping, we feel the cost-to-quality ratio in three of the four places we have stayed is just right. The fourth place, remember that one - the farmer’s scrap yard? Yeah, he should really have been paying us.
Another free bus to the start of our trailhead, winding up through tiny roads, passing sleepy mountain hamlets. Soon we are on the hoof, and once again there isn’t really a gentle introduction to the hike up to Lac Bleu - it’s straight up, Nigel at times thinking he’s being chased down by some kind of asthmatic badger. As he turns to check on Nicola, the only words he can get out of her are ‘can’t breathe’.
Lac Bleu is one of those places that seems almost too vivid to be real. At 2,090 metres, the small lake sits in a hollow among larch and Arolla pine, its impossibly blue-green water contrasting sharply with the rugged mountains surrounding it.
We sit and try and take in the beauty around us. Sometimes it can be all too easy to walk to a place, have a quick look, make an image or two, and move on. We are, however, trying to be a bit more aware of the privilege we are living by doing this, and moments like this we know we need to slow down and properly take in. Perhaps some would even call it mindful.
Or perhaps we just tell ourselves that while secretly trying to re-inflate our lungs !
Our hike wasn’t done, mind you, not by a long shot, as we planned to get much higher, once again a relentless type-2 upward stomp. Soon we spotted our target for the day - a giant Swiss flag flapping in the wind. That would be our turnaround point, at around 2400m (which would also mark our highest hike to date). After a brief snack stop, we returned to the lake, now much busier than before, finding a shaded spot to enjoy our customary boiled egg sandwiches before making our way out towards Arolla village. This, on paper, looked like it would be a gentle amble through alpine meadows and down easy gradients shaded by the forest. Switzerland, however, didn’t get the memo and instead toyed with us on several occasions, dropping the trail down to almost the valley floor, before forcing us back up steep, narrow single tracks.
After around 90 minutes of hiking (and about 85 minutes of swearing from Nicola), we soon reached the village, and with it the promise of a cold beer and some ice cream. We sat under the cover of a large patio umbrella just as the first spots of rain started to bounce off the canvas, the distant rumble of thunder echoing through the valley.
A few hours later we were back at the van (via the bakery, of course), and it was time to make another plan for the following day, which may or may not involve a rather scary bus ride to reach our trailhead.
That, however, will have to be a story for next time…