19/05/2026
Days 1109 - 1112 of full time van life
A morning coffee watching the waves roll over the rocks behind Muxia lighthouse before we ready the van and continue our journey south. On the way we stop over at the most westerly point of Peninsular Spain Cabo Turin. The weather is once again rather drizzly, so it’s a quick stop before moving further south. Next stop, Fisterra, often the extended finish spot for many Camino walkers. Last time we were here, it was in the height of summer, and the place was completely mobbed. Today, it’s us and the market stall sellers, although Nicola still manages to spend some money on bits and bobs (not to mention a few more bits). As a side note we both much preferred Muxia as a finish spot to the Camino.
We are heading towards an island situated off the western coast, but first, we stopover at a little river beach that sits on Rio Seco just outside Vilarello. It’s quiet, and we spend the evening chilling, although given we like to support local ventures such as this, we grab ourselves a couple of cold ones from the tiny bar. He rewards our business with a couple of free meaty tapas … we think it’s pork. We hope it’s pork.
The following morning we cross the long 2km bridge over to Ille de Arousa, the only island municipality in Galicia. We first visited the island in 2021 and had been staying on a campsite on the mainland. Nigel headed out for a run and on the way back, he stopped in for a coffee and croissant. Unbeknown to him, the OJ served up also contained some bubbles. Bonus. We will try the same cafe tomorrow but best check the alcohol content as we have many miles to cover.
There is official approved parking just as you get onto the island, so we decided to make a day of things. First up, we get our spandex on and head out on a 7ish mile run around the north of the island, passing picturesque harbours, tiny coves, and friendly locals.
Back to the van for a spot of lunch before we are back out on the hoof, this time choosing to walk around the south part of the island, which is less built up. Deserted beaches, sandy forest paths, and azure waters are our companions. Last time, the campsites were packed, and so was pretty much every inch of sand. Today, we could have picked any number to call our own, and we sit in the shelter of a few large boulders— the sun warming our skin, the experience lifting our souls.
Back to the van, and while there are no services to speak of in the car park, it should be a quiet night. The sun sets, and just as the last of the pinks slide over the horizon, the phone rings. A call from back in Ireland, and one that will change absolutely everything !!
But that, as always, will be a story for next time…