Madrid No Frills

02/07/2025

Spain has the largest number of domestic workers in the EU – over 600,000 – who are mainly in Madrid and Barcelona. Many live in their employers’ homes, making them especially vulnerable. In Spain, 96% of domestic workers are women, and 45% are migrants, and around 70% of migrant domestic workers find themselves in an irregular situation.

In a quiet restaurant in Barrio Quintana, Annelis sits across from me filling out a survey on gender-based violence. Her chipped nails a silent witness to the relentless hours she’s spent scrubbing floors and bleaching bathrooms. When her employer recently complimented her manicure while backhande...

30/06/2025

The Filipino community in Madrid has played a vital role in my investigation into labour rights for migrant domestic workers. Drawing on existing contacts in the community: friends, students, colleagues and embassy connections, I’ve been invited to some spectacular events!

It's been amazing to see Filipino culture represented so vibrantly across the city, especially around the anniversary of Filipino Independence Day. They have been a tremendous source of warmth and joy, and nostalgia for my own Indian diaspora community back where I'm from, one which I don't have here in Madrid.

While my investigation focuses on the prevalence of gender-based violence against migrant domestic workers, and how Spanish law both protects and fails them, it is also about something broader: the complex, often uplifting experience of migration. It’s about community, resilience, and the bonds that form in unfamiliar places. It’s about building new families, finding a sense of home, and unlocking opportunities for future generations – opportunities many never had themselves.

Migration is never easy, but it's often undertaken with hope. Sometimes people are fleeing persecution, poverty, climate crisis, war or genocide. But these same people are also moving towards democracy, freedom, and the chance to become their best selves – these stories deserve not only attention, but celebration.

I'm still looking for participants for my survey but also deeper conversations. If you or anyone you know would like to talk, please message me or email me at [email protected]. You can read more about my investigation linked below, where you can also find the survey in English and Spanish. Thanks for your help! 💜

👉🏾 https://madridnofrills.com/investigation-domestic-workers/

28/06/2025

Feliz Día del Orgullo 🌈❤️‍🔥 May everyone feel this seen 💪🏾💃🏾🏳️‍⚧️🏳️‍🌈💜✊🏾

25/06/2025

Where are tourists definitely welcome?

☀️🍹 𝗕𝗲𝗻𝗶𝗱𝗼𝗿𝗺!👙🥘

Following my Guardian Opinion piece about Spain's tourism and housing crisis, my latest story is exactly the rethink I'm talking about.

Unlike Madrid, Benidorm was designed and built to handle industrial numbers of tourists, and it has long accommodated both Spanish and international travellers without displacing residents at the same rate as elsewhere.

The “live like a local” model has backfired in Spain's big cities such as Madrid and Barcelona, but Benidorm has absorbed demand with ease while still offering an authentic Spanish experience.

https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2025/jun/25/benidorm-spain-auhentic-side-of-the-resort

23/06/2025

Dalisay* arrived from the Philippines age 18 and has been working here as a domestic worker for the past 20 years. When she first arrived, she worked for a Spanish family and had a terrible experience.

“They made me cook their food but didn't give me any time to eat my own, so I had to eat in secret. I would go to my room, into my own bathroom and sit on the toilet with my plate so that they couldn't smell my food. I felt trapped.”

Dalisay’s experiences of abuse extended to gender-based violence by her next employer. “He'd wait until his wife was on a business trip and then he would walk around the house naked. I often think, if I hadn't quit when I did, worse things would have happened. But I escaped.”

Since beginning my investigation into gender-based violence against migrant domestic workers, I have already heard a dozen stories of abuse. But I've also heard of many positive experiences in the sector, including for Dalisay.

“I now live in my own apartment and work for numerous families. I'm much happier having my own privacy and independence, and am treated very well by my current employers. I've helped raise a baby, who is now nine years old – I have so much love for them. They celebrate my birthday with me. They are like family to me.”

If you are anyone you know works as a domestic worker, and would like to talk, please send them my anonymous survey (link below), or please put them in touch with me directly. Thank you 🙏🏾💜

*Dalisay's name has been changed to protect her identity.

https://madridnofrills.com/investigation-domestic-workers/

21/06/2025

A crowd gathered last night in Callao to mourn the latest victim of police racism in Madrid: 35-year-old Abderrahim, who had lived in Torrejón de Ardoz for 19 years. His life was cut short Tuesday night when an off-duty police officer pinned him to the ground, using a deadly and controversial chokehold which should be banned. The 58-year-old municipal officer claimed Abderrahim had stolen his phone. We can all agree the response was disproportionate – a word which has long described Madrid's policing.

Abderrahim is believed to have died from strangulation and the officer is being charged with reckless homicide, but has been released on bail. But, would there be any accountability if the incident hadn’t been recorded?

Thankfully, multiple bystanders captured the scene on video, and those clips have since gone viral. They're the reason I'm writing about the incident now, and the reason so many protesters turned up last night. This is why it is crucial that we keep recording what we witness – especially when it involves police violence.

Abderrahim’s death is not an isolated incident, it reflects a pattern of excessive force. Though he had a history of mental health challenges and prior police encounters, no one imagined his life would end this way.

The people of Madrid demand justice for Abderrahim and a full, transparent investigation. But we are also asking: how is it possible that, more than seven years after the death of Mame Mbaye, who was also 35 at the time, and just weeks after another violent police intervention in Lavapiés, nothing has changed?

Police continue to profile and target ethnic minorities. Until police racism ends, we will keep recording. It is not only our right under Spanish law, it is our responsibility as a society that is capable of demanding more for our marginalised neighbours.

For more information about your legal rights when recording police violence, see my IG post from 5 June: https://www.instagram.com/p/DKhIkAUovw9/?igsh=dnZiM2lpMWp2aXB0

📸 Alberto Astudillo

18/06/2025

I've just published an opinion piece in the Guardian on the recent anti-tourism protests across Europe. I talk about Lavapiés, where I've lived for 12 years and witnessed the violence of gentrification, and also the disappearance of affordable hotels.

🔫 𝗣𝘂𝘁 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝘄𝗮𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝗽𝗶𝘀𝘁𝗼𝗹𝘀 𝗱𝗼𝘄𝗻

Tourists aren’t inherently bad, and they shouldn’t be told to go home. But after coordinated anti-tourism protests across Europe last weekend, it’s easy to feel uncertain. With headlines blaming visitors for everything from overcrowding to housing shortages, even the most conscious travellers may start to wonder if they’re no longer welcome. But this growing backlash, while rooted in real frustrations, doesn’t tell the whole story.

As southern Europe’s cities and islands have surpassed a tipping point, some are calling for an outright ban on tourist flats – starting with those that are unlicensed. That may be necessary, but solving the housing crisis will take more than just tighter regulations and housebuilding – the other half of the equation is addressing the lack of decent, mid-range places for tourists to stay. Spain continues to build hotels, but too many new developments are glitzy four- and five-star projects that cater to luxury travellers. This shortage of modest, comfortable accommodation mirrors the broader shortage of affordable housing for residents.

With tourism representing 12% of the country's GDP, we have to be realistic. This is a country that wants tourism and tourists want to come. We need the PP to stop playing with our homes and lives (exiting the council would be great), and instead install a government that will physically build a city that accommodates both residents and tourists.

🏗️ Build houses, build hotels, build train lines and make them 24 hours. Building a Madrid – and a Spain – that works for all of us 𝗶𝘀 possible.

Visitors could be more sensitive, while the authorities should seek sustainable solutions for residents and tourists. But just staying at home is no answer, says travel writer and multimedia journalist Leah Pattem

11/06/2025

This is Annelis. She’s participating in my survey about gender-based violence against domestic workers. She’s one of many women I hope to meet in the coming months of my investigation – women who feel empowered to step in front of the camera and share their experiences.

She was called out by her boss for having beautiful nails, who suggested she was earning too much money to afford a manicure. What her boss didn’t realise is that she painted her nails herself just a few days ago. Already, with all the bleach and scrubbing, her nails are chipped and broken.

Similar comments were made about her outfit, which she bought on sale at Zara last year. Annelis wonders if survivors of gender-based violence are expected to look like victims.

So far, I’ve received an incredible response to my survey. Annelis is already sharing it with her friends, and so many of you are too. I still hope to gather many more responses from women and trans women to build a clearer picture of the daily realities faced by domestic workers – both documented and undocumented.

𝗪𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗶𝘀 𝗴𝗲𝗻𝗱𝗲𝗿-𝗯𝗮𝘀𝗲𝗱 𝘃𝗶𝗼𝗹𝗲𝗻𝗰𝗲?

Gender-based violence (GBV) encompasses any harm inflicted on a person because of their gender. This includes physical violence (such as pushing, slapping, hitting, or hurting), emotional abuse (like insults, humiliation, coercive control, financial manipulation, isolation, intimidation, or stalking), sexual violence (including r**e, attempted r**e, being forced to witness sexual acts, or sexual harassment), and abuse facilitated by technology (such as online stalking).

Please help raise awareness by sharing my survey, which is available in both English and Spanish. Links are below. Simply sharing this survey increases visibility for domestic workers, and every completed response helps bring their stories to light. Thank you for your support ✊🏾💜

https://madridnofrills.com/unprecedented-survey-to-track-gender-based-violence-against-spains-undocumented-domestic-workers-launches-today/

04/06/2025

Carrying a paper copy of my gender-based violence survey, I visited the offices of Sedoac yesterday, in Orcasitas. I was there to meet Edith, who is a member of the first domestic workers association that has offered to help me with my survey 💜

“You’ll find that about 80% of your respondents will say they’ve been victims of gender-based violence,” she told me. “I hope it’s less, but this is the reality we are facing as domestic workers.”

Today, I’m launching the first ever attempt in Spain to create a database on gender-based violence experienced by undocumented migrant domestic workers, who have never been considered in data on this subject before.

Please read more about it and share this with any domestic workers you may know in Spain – documented or undocumented, currently working or who have worked as a domestic worker in the last 10 years. Thank you 🙏🏾

Carrying a paper copy of my gender-based violence survey, I visited the offices of Sedoac yesterday, in Orcasitas. I was there to meet Edith, who is a member of the first domestic workers association that has offered to help me with my survey.

31/05/2025

𝗖𝗼𝘂𝗻𝗰𝗶𝗹'𝘀 𝗱𝗶𝘀𝗮𝘀𝘁𝗿𝗼𝘂𝘀 𝗻𝗲𝘄 𝗵𝗼𝘂𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗹𝗮𝘄 𝗶𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗱𝗲𝗮𝘁𝗵 𝗼𝗳 𝗠𝗮𝗱𝗿𝗶𝗱 𝗮𝘀 𝘄𝗲 𝗸𝗻𝗼𝘄 𝗶𝘁

Madrid’s right-wing city council has just approved what it claims is a “solution” to the city’s housing emergency. The PP argues that it will separate tourists from residents by banning individual illegal tourist apartments within residential buildings while paving the way for entire buildings to be converted into tourist-only accommodation, and enabling the conversion of commercial units to ground-floor tourist flats.

The new law will allow thousands of centrally located buildings to shift from residential to tourist use with just a simple license change. Some 2,831 buildings – around 17% of those in Madrid Centro – could be transformed under the new rules.

An additional 6,637 residential blocks may also be converted with a time-limited license capped at 15 years – though this limit could easily be extended if the PP remains in power. In effect, the council is rezoning vast parts of the capital, deepening the housing crisis by shifting large swathes of the housing stock from long-term rental use to short-term tourist lets.

In the centre alone, there are 1,200 single-owner buildings (vertical properties) that could now be converted into de facto aparthotels, like Tribulete 7, San Ildefonso 20 or Mesón deparedes 88. Across the city, a further 315,000 homes may be eligible to become legal tourist flats.

Independent street access has long been a requirement for obtaining a tourist license, but new licenses had not been issued for some time. However, that has now changed, with the council allowing for a further 66,000 small businesses to be converted.

The new policy also does nothing to address the existence of more than 15,000 illegal tourist apartments in Madrid, with no increase in the number of inspectors.

The current council has no intention of solving Madrid’s housing emergency. Instead, they are accelerating the disappearance of residential life in the capital and replacing us with tourists.

Article & links: https://madridnofrills.com/councils-disastrous-new-housing-law-is-the-death-of-madrid-as-we-know-it/
📸 Elisa Gonzalez
🗺️ PSOE Madrid

21/05/2025

It's not every day I find myself in a no frills bar in Logroño – in real life and also in the local newspaper! It was just sat on the table among Logroño's abuelos having verdejos on a sunny Wednesday morning 🥂

I was invited by Fernando Sáenz to give a talk for , about MNF and the future of no frills bars. Yesterday, I explained to some of the most influential members of Spain's gastronomy sector that we're losing so many of our community spaces to illegal tourist apartments that neighbours are losing the ability to organise. Spain's bars have always been community spaces, and so perhaps we should formalise this arrangement. From an owner's perspective, bars and restaurants could consider collaborating with neighbourhood associations and local movements, especially on quieter days like Monday or Tuesday. Neighbours bring an additional income to the hostelería sector and at the same time have the space to organise social movements, especially neighbours who are facing eviction which is so prevalent in Lavapiés.

To support your local bar is to support your own community which, in turn, ensures the survival of your local bar 💪🏾

28/04/2025

El Gran Apagón (The Great Power Cut) 🕯️

While the world wondered all day what we'd been up to during over 11 hours of a historic power cut, just now they're finally getting an answer.

Some of us were stranded on trains, trapped in lifts or stuck in traffic jams — but the emergency services never failed. At Atocha station, thousands endured what might have been the worst day of their year, while others managed to find small moments of joy: catching up on journaling, entertaining their kids, making the best of an unexpected end to their holiday in Madrid. Traffic lights were out, but cars didn't speed. Drivers slowed and pedestrians crossed in an unspoken agreement of safety.

In my barrio of Lavapiés – one of the last places in Madrid to regain power – the weight of the world lifted. It was like a summer fiesta, warm beer, notes and coins, and an even greater sense of community. Plazas turned into playgrounds for kids and adults alike. Every square I passed had a guitarist, and I spotted groups of friends gathered sketching the scenes unfolding around them. Benches overflowed, with even more people seated cross-legged on the pavements, laughing and drinking beer like it was a Saturday.

Despite having no way of organising as we couldn’t call or text, we all found each other. Just walking the streets was enough to find our friends and neighbours, gathering and listening to a stranger’s radio (first photo).

The food in my fridge has spoiled, I've lost a day of work, and there are many questions still unanswered about energy stability, dependency and Spain's future. But we survived today and it was unforgettable – for some, in a good way.