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El Capitan has a new queen: Sasha DiGiulian. The American climber has just spent 23 days on El Cap to free climb the Pla...
02/12/2025

El Capitan has a new queen: Sasha DiGiulian. The American climber has just spent 23 days on El Cap to free climb the Platinum route, 39 pitches up to 5.13d. She is the first woman to free climb this route, which was opened in 2016. Her determination paid off after several attempts and nine days stuck on the wall by a storm. Following in the footsteps of Lynn Hill, Sasha DiGiulian proves that women are continuing to revolutionize climbing in Yosemite.
https://alpinemag.com/el-capitan-sasha-digiulian-free-climbing-23-days-platinum/

The documentary film Girl Climber spotlighted the boldness and vulnerability of an exceptional climber: Emily Harrington...
21/11/2025

The documentary film Girl Climber spotlighted the boldness and vulnerability of an exceptional climber: Emily Harrington. Directed by Jon Glassberg, this inspiring movie describes her journey to free climb El Capitan in less than 24 hours. Girl Climber explores Emily Harrington’s doubts and perseverance within Yosemite’s “boys’ club,” between falls that end badly and her friendship with Alex Honnold.
https://alpinemag.com/girl-climber-movie-emily-harrington-el-capitan/

He began his mountaineering career in the USSR mountaineering championships before continuing it amid the smoking ruins ...
12/11/2025

He began his mountaineering career in the USSR mountaineering championships before continuing it amid the smoking ruins of the former Soviet Union. Alexander Odintsov will receive of the 2025 Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award, a fitting tribute to the man behind some of the greatest first ascents in the Pamir and Karakoram ranges. A bridge between two eras, Alexander Odintsov experienced the sacrifices required by heavy expeditions—Jannu in 2004—before continuing to explore legendary walls (success on Latok III, failure on Masherbrum) in a modern style. A Russian climber awarded by the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement – a premiere.
https://alpinemag.com/piolet-dor-lifetime-achievement-award-2025-alexander-odintsov/

It is one of the great faces of an 8,000-meter peak that had remained untouched until now. The 2,000-meters southwest fa...
02/11/2025

It is one of the great faces of an 8,000-meter peak that had remained untouched until now. The 2,000-meters southwest face of Manaslu, 8163 m. has just been climbed in alpine style by a Russian team : Andrei Vasilyev, Sergey Kondrashkin, Natalia Belyankina, Kirill Eizeman et Vitaly Shipilov. The journalist Anna Piunova tells us about this epic adventure, completed at the end of October. A bold first ascent as rare as it is outstanding: eleven days of climbing and four days of descent. Exclusive report.
https://alpinemag.com/first-ascent-manaslu-south-west-face-by-russian-team-alpine-style/

By climbing for the first time this virgin summit of 7468 m, from the 13th to the 16th of October, French Benjamin Védri...
20/10/2025

By climbing for the first time this virgin summit of 7468 m, from the 13th to the 16th of October, French Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean managed to solve one of the last great Himalayan problems in alpine style. Located in the Kangchenjunga region (Nepal), Jannu East offers a monstrous face of 2300 m of elevation – equivalent to twice the Grandes Jorasses. Many roped parties had measured themselves there until then, in vain. We were able to reach Benjamin Védrines live from Nepal. His voice is filled with a joy that makes us hear his smile. “It’s the ascension of a lifetime. With Nicolas, we lived a dream.” A dream he tells us more about it here.
https://alpinemag.com/benjamin-vedrines-nicolas-jean-jannu-east-first-ascent-interview/

One of the greatest skiing challenges has just been accomplished. The Tibetan side of Everest was the goal of a major Na...
16/10/2025

One of the greatest skiing challenges has just been accomplished. The Tibetan side of Everest was the goal of a major National Geographic expedition: to accompany skier Jim Morrison in his project to ski down the Hornbein Couloir on the north side of Everest, where French snowboarder Marco Siffredi disappeared in 2002. The feat was accomplished on October 15, in front of Jimmy Chin’s camera. With or without bottled oxygen, Nat Geo does not specify.
https://alpinemag.com/everest-ski-north-face-hornbein-couloir-jim-morrison/

One of America’s most talented climbers, Balin Miller, died in Yosemite on the final pitch of Sea of Dreams, an aid rout...
06/10/2025

One of America’s most talented climbers, Balin Miller, died in Yosemite on the final pitch of Sea of Dreams, an aid route on El Capitan that he was climbing solo. Originally from Alaska, Miller had made headlines with unprecedented solo ascents, such as the Slovak Direct on Denali last spring.
https://alpinemag.com/death-young-alpinist-balin-miller-el-capitan/

There are hardly any words to describe the passion that animates Carlos Soria, except undoubtedly the love of the mounta...
29/09/2025

There are hardly any words to describe the passion that animates Carlos Soria, except undoubtedly the love of the mountain. At 86 years old, Carlos Soria has just reached the Manaslu, 8,163 m. This mountain holds a special place in his life, since more than half a century ago, in 1973, he had made his first attempt there. In 1975, Soria had participated in the Spanish expedition that allowed his country to sign its first ascent of an 8000, but he himself had not reached the summit at that time.
https://alpinemag.com/spanish-carlos-soria-reaches-summit-manaslu-52-years-after-first-attempt/

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