08/11/2025
First day on the Nakasendo ⛩️
In 2024 I stumbled across an article about Japan’s old hiking routes. The first photo in the article was of a misty mountain village with cobbled streets - I was totally sold!
A year later, we’re here, setting off along the Nakasendo Trail, the ancient route that once linked Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto.
A lot of it is now regular roads, but once you reach the mountains, it’s a lot of stone paths, cedar forests, and old “post towns.” Years ago, this was the highway for samurai, merchants, and feudal lords (how cool is that?!) 🇯🇵
We took the bullet train from Tokyo to Nagoya, then to Nakatsugawa, and began walking to Magome… only to realise later you’re meant to take a bus to the start, not skirt the highway. Whoops 😅
Accommodation in the old towns fills up fast, so we ended up in a very 90s family hotel which had a wee onsen and an awesome dinner setup 🍱