20/06/2025
HU - RO - EN
HU:
Olajvisszajelző lámpa
A Hajdúböszörményi Veterán Jármű Találkozó előtt posztoltunk két képet, melyen az volt látható, hogy alacsony fordulatszámnál felvillan a piros alacsony motorolaj nyomás jelző lámpa.
Ennek több oka is lehetett, először rögtön a legrosszabbra gondoltunk, hogy elromlott az olajszivattyú. Szerencsére nem lett volna nagy macera kicserélni, de ahhoz le kellett volna venni az olajteknőt.
Reménykedtünk, hogy nem ez a hiba, így némi gondolkodás után eszünkbe jutott, hogy akkor is lehet alacsony az olajnyomás, ha túl híg a motorolaj. Az meg nemrég volt cserélve, a hígabb verzióra, mert nyárra azt ajánlotta a nagykönyv. Ellenőriztük a motorolaj szintet, amikor is feltűnt, hogy az megszaporodott. Több olaj van benne, mint amit beletettünk. Hengerfejes nem lehet az autó, mert akkor forralná a vizet, és a víz is elmenne belőle, meg az olaj is fehéres kicsapódásos lenne, megvizsgáltuk. Az olajnak benzin szaga volt. Ez meg egy dologtól lehetett, hogy a benzinpumpában lévő membrán átszakadt. Nem nagy mértékben, mert akkor nem ment volna a motor, de épp annyira, hogy mindig egy kis benzin kerüljön az olajba.
A Szahara közepén nem szerettünk volna még egyszer így járni, ezért azt találtuk ki, hogy a régi hagyományos membrános mechanikus benzinpumpát lecseréljük egy független elektromosra, így többé nem fordulhat elő, hogy benzin kerül a motorolajba. Rendeltünk is a helyi alkatrész boltban egy elektromos benzinpumpát. Minden elektronikai tudásomat felhasználva, és a Google-t segítségül hívva egy relé segítségével be is kötöttük az új pumpát. Pumpált is rendesen, annyira, hogy egyszer csak a karburátor felső torkán kezdett ömleni a benzin. Ez így nem lesz jó, túl erős. Hogyan lehetne ezt szabályozni? Autószerelő ismerőssel is egyeztettünk, de nem volt olyan megoldás, ami minden fordulaton pont megfelelő benzinmennyiséget adott volna.
Rendeltünk hát az internetről egy nagyon olcsó benzinpumpát, olyat, amit az MHV Vlogon is használtak. Ehhez elvileg semmilyen külön szabályozó nem szükséges, és direkt régi karburátoros autókhoz fejlesztették ki. Átkötöttük, működött. Egy próbakör Vácra, gyerekek nélkül, majd gyerekekkel együtt. Szépen ment. Persze előtte még kapott egy olajcserét. A könyv szerint kb 3 liter motorolaj szükséges az autóba, annyi is volt beletöltve, de a cserekor majdnem 5 liter jött le. Szerencsére hamar észleltük a problémát, és nem jártunk az autóval, így a motor nem ment tönkre a nem megfelelő kenés miatt.
Másnap az üzemanyag rendszer további elemét javítottuk. Megvételkor észleltük, hogy benzin csepeg a differenciálműre. Ez okozott egy kicsit nagyobb fogyasztást, de ezenkívül semmi mást. Lebontottuk a csomagtér gumiborítását, az alatt volt egy kerek fém fedél, ami alatt a benzin szintjelző és a két benzincső helyezkedett el. Meg is lett a hiba. A visszatérő ág törött volt. Először azt hittük, hogy csak megrepedt, de levétel után láthatóvá vált, hogy ketté is volt törve, és az előző tulajdonosnál úgy javították, hogy egy segédcső segítségével toldották, majd szigetelő szalaggal körbetekerték. Ez így nem maradhatott, ezért pár ezer forintért vettünk új benzincsövet, és kicseréltünk minden csövet. Ezzel a teljes üzemagyag rendszer felújításon esett át. Azóta a fogyasztás is a gyári értékek alatt van.
RO:
Lampa de avertizare a presiunii uleiului
Înainte de Întâlnirea Vehiculelor de Epocă din Hajdúböszörmény, am postat două poze în care se putea vedea că, la turații joase, se aprindea lampa roșie de avertizare a presiunii scăzute a uleiului de motor.
Aceasta putea avea mai multe cauze. Prima noastră bănuială, cea mai rea, a fost că p***a de ulei s-a defectat. Din fericire, nu ar fi fost mare bătaie de cap să o schimbăm, dar ar fi trebuit dată jos baia de ulei.
Am sperat că nu aceasta este problema, așa că, după puțină gândire, ne-am amintit că presiunea uleiului poate fi scăzută și dacă uleiul de motor este prea subțire. Tocmai fusese schimbat cu o versiune mai fluidă, recomandată pentru vară, conform manualului. Am verificat nivelul uleiului de motor și am observat că era mai mult decât am pus inițial. Era mai mult ulei decât turnasem. Nu putea fi garnitura de chiulasă, pentru că atunci ar fi fiert apa, nivelul apei ar fi scăzut și uleiul ar fi avut depuneri albicioase – am verificat toate acestea. Uleiul avea miros de benzină. Singura explicație posibilă era că membrana din p***a de benzină s-a spart. Nu complet, căci altfel motorul nu ar mai fi funcționat, dar suficient cât să permită trecerea unei mici cantități de benzină în ulei.
Nu am vrut să riscăm să pățim același lucru în mijlocul Saharei, așa că am decis să înlocuim p***a mecanică de benzină tradițională, cu membrană, cu una electrică independentă. Astfel, nu mai exista riscul ca benzina să ajungă în uleiul de motor. Am comandat o pompă electrică de benzină de la un magazin local de piese auto. Folosindu-mi toate cunoștințele de electronică și cu ajutorul Google, am conectat noua pompă cu un releu. A p***at bine, ba chiar prea bine, până când benzina a început să curgă prin partea superioară a carburatorului. Așa nu e bine, e prea puternică. Cum să o reglăm? Am consultat și un prieten mecanic auto, dar nu am găsit o soluție care să ofere cantitatea potrivită de benzină la orice turație.
Așa că am comandat de pe internet o pompă de benzină foarte ieftină, de tipul celor folosite și de MHV Vlog. Teoretic, aceasta nu necesită niciun regulator suplimentar și a fost special concepută pentru mașinile vechi cu carburator. Am făcut conexiunile, a funcționat. Am făcut o tură de test spre Vác, mai întâi fără copii, apoi și cu ei. A mers frumos. Bineînțeles, înainte de toate i-am făcut și o schimbare de ulei. Conform manualului, mașina are nevoie de aproximativ 3 litri de ulei de motor, atât am și pus, dar la schimb au ieșit aproape 5 litri. Din fericire, am descoperit problema din timp și nu am circulat cu mașina, așa că motorul nu s-a deteriorat din cauza lubrifierii necorespunzătoare.
A doua zi, am reparat o altă componentă a sistemului de alimentare. La cumpărare, am observat că benzina picura pe diferențial. Asta ducea la un consum mai mare, dar în rest nu provoca nimic grav. Am îndepărtat garnitura de cauciuc din portbagaj, sub care era un capac metalic rotund. Sub acel capac se aflau senzorul de nivel al combustibilului și cele două conducte de benzină. Am descoperit problema: conducta de retur era ruptă. La început am crezut că e doar fisurată, dar după ce am dat-o jos, am văzut clar că era ruptă complet și fusese „reparată” de fostul proprietar cu o bucată de țeavă ajutătoare și bandă izolatoare. Așa nu putea rămâne. Am cumpărat conducte noi de benzină cu câțiva lei și le-am înlocuit pe toate. Astfel, întregul sistem de alimentare cu combustibil a fost recondiționat. De atunci, consumul este chiar sub valorile din fabrică.
EN:
Oil Warning Light
Before the Hajdúböszörmény Veteran Vehicle Meeting, we posted two pictures showing that the red low engine oil pressure warning light was coming on at low RPM.
There could have been several causes for this. At first, we feared the worst — that the oil pump had failed. Luckily, replacing it wouldn’t have been a big hassle, but it would have required removing the oil pan.
We hoped that wasn’t the issue, so after some thinking, we remembered that oil pressure can also drop if the engine oil is too thin. The oil had recently been changed to a thinner type, as recommended by the manual for summer use. We checked the oil level and noticed it had increased. There was more oil in the engine than we had poured in.
It couldn’t have been a blown head gasket, because that would have caused the engine to overheat, the coolant level to drop, and the oil to turn milky — none of which were the case. We examined it, and the oil had a gasoline smell. This pointed to one thing: the diaphragm in the fuel pump had ruptured. Not completely — otherwise, the engine wouldn’t have run — but just enough to allow small amounts of gasoline into the oil.
We didn’t want to risk this happening again, especially not in the middle of the Sahara, so we decided to replace the old traditional mechanical fuel pump with diaphragm with an independent electric one. That way, fuel couldn’t mix with the engine oil anymore. We ordered an electric fuel pump from a local parts store. Using all my electrical knowledge (and with Google’s help), we connected the new pump with a relay.
It pumped well — too well, in fact. At one point, fuel started pouring out of the top throat of the carburetor. That wouldn’t do — the pump was too strong. How could we regulate it? We consulted a mechanic friend, but there wasn’t a solution that could deliver the right fuel amount at all RPMs.
So, we ordered a very cheap fuel pump from the internet, the same type used in the MHV Vlog. This one supposedly doesn’t require any additional regulator and was designed specifically for old carbureted vehicles. We swapped it in, and it worked. First, we did a test drive to Vác without the kids, then with them. It ran beautifully. Of course, we changed the oil again beforehand. The manual says the engine takes about 3 liters of oil — that’s what we poured in — but nearly 5 liters came out during the oil change. Fortunately, we spotted the issue in time and didn’t drive the car much, so the engine didn’t suffer damage from poor lubrication.
The next day, we repaired another part of the fuel system. When we bought the car, we noticed gasoline was dripping onto the differential. That led to slightly higher fuel consumption but nothing more serious. We removed the rubber lining from the trunk, underneath which we found a round metal cover. Underneath that were the fuel level sensor and the two fuel lines. That’s where we found the problem: the return line was broken. At first, we thought it was just cracked, but after removing it, we saw it was completely snapped. The previous owner had “repaired” it with a helper pipe and electrical tape. That wasn’t acceptable, so we bought a new fuel line for a few bucks and replaced all the lines. With that, the entire fuel system was refurbished. Since then, fuel consumption has even dropped below factory specs.
