20/01/2026
~ Umaid Bhawan | Chittar Mahal ~
One of the most iconic palaces in the world, Umaid Bhawan stands an an exemplary example of Rajput architecture - blending Art Deco and Indo Saracenic architecture and design with local sensibilities, creating a monument for a millennia. I was fortunate to get a tour of the place by Manveer, my friend and an employee of the hotel with expertise in its history.
Umaid Bhawan is said to be the first art deco building in the country, with the likes of Manik Baug and the Morbi Palace. For someone interested in the raging deco style, this palace is a dream - as it perfectly blends the local culture and tradition of the Rathore clan with that of deco - horses, eagles, helmets, peacocks, and more! The palace also pays homage to its first owner, the Maharaja Umaid Singh of Jodhpur, and his obsession with flying - “the latest of our recreations” as he used to say - with flying planes carved into the railings and parapets, as well as those of boar heads capture while pig sticking.
The palace, like many built before, is divided into two sections - the Janana and the Mardana, with separate entrances. The former is connected to the swimming pool, and other public rooms via galleries - so women could watch ceremonies and durbar unobserved. The central cupola is said to be a hundred and five feet high - with the palace having a hundred and forty seven rooms - truly a magnificent structure of its time - with noble beginnings - constructed to provide relief work during the famine.
So many deco elements to observe here - and once can easily get lost in time studying this fabulous palace. Some arrogantly called it ‘Fascist’ architecture - taking into account the scale and opulence of the palace - but according to me, this is false - directly applying their guilt of the Holocaust and Hitlers’ N**i ideology to an Indian context - which is unfair and incorrect. We shall discuss this in length in the future. And without doubt my favourite part are the ‘deco murals’ by Polish artist Stephan Norblin. Thinking about it makes me drool and dream, and so I shall decided an entire post to this, very soon! CONTINUED IN COMMENTS.