16/09/2025
A team of three climbers from Kashmir, led by Yasir Khan, with Saqib Shafi and Wahid, set out from Sarbal, a village in Sonmarg, to summit Crystal Peak (4,700 meters) in Durinar Valley, a mountain last climbed in 1945 by Jackson, Tripp, and Levy, as far as we know, who named it for the pound-sized crystals they found. Our main goal was to promote mountaineering in Kashmir, and this untouched peak, with no recorded ascents in 80 years, was an epic challenge. We trekked to Barafsar, Kashmir’s highest alpine lake at 4,606 meters, arriving around 7:00 PM to set up base camp. The next morning, we summited Eastern Pinnacle and Mount Valehead, first climbed in 1933 by L. Watts’ group, and also explored part of the Kazim Pahalin Bal ridge line, returning to base by 10:30 AM. Then we rested for a bit, had some snacks, and at 12:25 PM, we pushed for Crystal Peak via the northwestern ridge. We tackled a loose, steep gully, scrambled over tricky pitches, and navigated big, unstable rocks. The final 100 meters was rock climbing with solid holds. With no recent records, we charted the route ourselves, reaching the summit at 2:45 PM. On the summit, we had a beautiful panoramic view of surrounding peaks and valleys like Satlanjan, Liddewath, and the Matterhorn of Kashmir, Mt. Kolahoi. We built a small cairn to mark the moment and were back at base by 5:25 PM. After a good sleep, we descended to Sarbal the next day and headed home, stoked to have reopened Crystal Peak’s route after 80 years. Any leads about the ascent history will be appreciated.
