13/07/2026
Day 15 of cycling across Italy on the Via Francigena
From Velletri to Terracina
Today’s distance: 70km
Total distance: 905.5km
Today was one of the easiest (cycling) days on the via Francigena so far. The road we took was flat (yay!), straight (literally no turns for miles and miles, kinda boring but I liked it), and narrow (which was kinda sketchy with all the cars and trucks flying past). It was such a nice change of pace from the killer hills of Toscana and Lazio.
We arrived in Terracina, which is on the Tyrrhenian Sea, around noon and found a great spot for lunch. It was like a cafeteria where you go down the line and point at what you want but the options are all the freshly caught seafood from the sea outside. It was delicious.
The pilgrim accommodations in this city are closed for renovations so we’re staying in a B&B instead just outside the history city center which meant a steep climb after lunch. But it was worth it. Very comfortable. Luca and I are working out how to balance our contrary opinions towards using the air conditioner (I love it, he hates it).
We spent the late afternoon wandering around town. Terracina is an ancient Roman city with many spots where you can still see ancient ruins including temples, the amphitheater, and even the Via Appia. In many ways it reminds me of being in Kotor, Montenegro. Especially with all the cats. It’s gorgeous. There are some other tourists but it still feels very local and authentic here.
We had gelato outside the duomo before dinner. The owner passed around a tray of salami for people to try. Luca said to eat it like a candy (i.e., really savor it) and wow what a difference it made in the flavor. I now kinda feel like I’ve wasted every other sausage I’ve ever eaten.
Tomorrow we’re going to visit Luca’s aunt. Apparently she lives in (or near?) a region famous for the best mozzarella in the world?? Idk but I’m very excited to try it.
