Yasuhiro TV

29/10/2025

A Detailed Engineering Diagram of a Robust Bed Rail System with Integrated Slat Support and Fastening Points 🛏️📐

This comprehensive isometric drawing meticulously illustrates the design and construction of a single bed rail, highlighting its various components, precise dimensions, and functional features engineered for stability and support within a bed frame.

🛠️ Main Bed Rail Structure
The primary component is a long, light beige-colored rail that forms the backbone of the bed's side. This rail is designed for robust structural integrity.
* Plug Holes: It features three prominent circular holes along its length. These are specifically designed to accommodate 3/4-inch (approximately 1.9 cm) hardwood dowel plugs.
* Plug Depth: The plugs are intended to be 3 cm deep.
* Purpose: These plugs serve as reinforced anchor points, ensuring that screws from a bedrail clip can securely fasten through them, providing a strong and stable connection to the bed posts.
* Placement: The lowest plug hole is centered 7.4 cm from the bottom edge of the main rail. A measurement of 3.5 cm is indicated from the outer surface to the center of the plug, likely guiding drilling depth or plug insertion.

🪵 Slat Support Rail
Attached to the bottom of the main bed rail is a distinct, long hardwood rail, depicted in a rich brown color. This component is crucial for supporting the bed's slats.
* Dimensions: This support rail measures 4.2 cm in width and 1.8 cm in height.
* Length: It spans a significant length of 199.2 cm, which also indicates the overall length of this bed rail assembly.
* Attachment: It is securely screwed to the bottom of the main rail to provide a stable and continuous platform for the bed slats.

🧱 Slat Retaining Blocks
Positioned on top of the hardwood support rail are several smaller, light beige blocks. These blocks are strategically placed to ensure the bed slats remain in position.
* Purpose: Their primary function is to keep the slats from sliding around, thereby maintaining the integrity and stability of the mattress support system.
* General Dimensions: The blocks are generally specified as 1.8 cm (height) x 2.4 cm (width) x 8.8 cm (length).
* Specific Lengths & Spacing: The diagram shows examples of blocks with lengths of 7.2 cm and 8.8 cm, suggesting potential variations or specific placement requirements. The clear spacing between these blocks, which would accommodate the bed slats, is indicated as 16.0 cm.

🔗 End Connection Piece
At one end of the main bed rail, a vertical, light yellow component is depicted, likely representing the interface for connecting to a bed post or headboard/footboard.
* Overall Height: This end piece has an overall height of 19.7 cm.
* Slot/Groove: It features a prominent vertical slot or groove, with its upper edge positioned 15.0 cm from the bottom of the piece. This slot is typically where the bedrail clip would engage with the bed post.
* Width: The width of this end piece is 3.6 cm.
* Additional Details: Small circular holes are visible within this end piece, likely for additional fastening, alignment pins, or specific hardware.
* Bottom Dimensions: Additional measurements of 1.8 cm and 2.4 cm are shown at the very bottom right, likely indicating specific thicknesses or heights of components in that particular region of the end piece.

✔️ Summary:
This image provides a comprehensive technical blueprint for a robust bed rail system. It meticulously details a long main rail designed with reinforced plug holes (3 cm deep, 3/4" diameter) for secure bedrail clip attachment. A sturdy hardwood support rail (4.2 x 1.8 x 199.2 cm) is screwed to the bottom to carry the bed slats. Small, precisely dimensioned blocks (e.g., 1.8 x 2.4 x 8.8 cm) are strategically placed on the support rail with 16.0 cm spacing to prevent slat movement. The design also includes a detailed end connection piece (19.7 cm high, 3.6 cm wide) featuring a vertical slot (15.0 cm from bottom) for seamless integration with bed posts, ensuring overall structural integrity and mattress stability.

29/10/2025

This detailed illustration showcases an ingenious DIY solution for workshop organization and dust management, specifically designed to keep a dust collection hose and power cord out of the way while working.

🖼️ Image Details:

* The Workbench: At the center of the image is a robust wooden workbench, characteristic of a woodworking shop. It features two traditional vises: one on the left side with two vertical spindles, and another on the right side with a single horizontal crank handle. The workbench provides a stable surface for various tasks. 🪵🔨
👉 The Sander and Dust Collection System:
* Sander: A red and grey random orbital sander is depicted resting on the workbench, ready for use. 🪚
* Dust Collection Hose: A flexible, light brown hose is connected to the sander, designed to extract dust during operation. This hose forms a large, graceful arc above the workbench. 💨
* Dust Collector/Shop Vac: On the floor to the right of the workbench, a compact, grey, wheeled dust collector (likely a shop vacuum) is shown. It's connected to the dust collection hose and has its power cord plugged into a wall outlet. 🔌🧹
* The Wall-Mounted Arm – Construction & Functionality:
* Material: The core of this organizational system is a wall-mounted arm, explicitly labeled as being "made from 3/8-in. plywood." This indicates a lightweight yet sturdy construction. 🏗️📏
* Hinging Mechanism: The arm is attached to the wall using "butt hinges," which are clearly visible on the right side. These hinges are crucial as they "let arm swing flat against wall when not in use," offering an excellent space-saving feature for smaller workshops. 🚪🔄
* Hose Suspension: The dust collection hose is suspended from the plywood arm using a clever combination of "zip ties and springs." The springs likely provide a degree of tension relief and flexibility, allowing the hose to move smoothly as the sander is maneuvered across the workbench. 🔗🌀
* Cord Management: A thin cord, presumably the power cord for the sander, is also managed by the arm. It is held in place by "eyebolts" strategically positioned along the arm's length. This keeps the cord from tangling with the hose or interfering with the work surface. 👀💡
* Overall Setup: The entire system is designed to elevate the dust collection hose and power cord above the work area, preventing them from dragging across the workpiece, getting tangled, or becoming a tripping hazard. The arm is mounted high on the wall, suggesting it's positioned to clear the user's head and provide ample clearance for sanding large items. ⬆️👷‍♂️

📝 Summary:

This image illustrates a practical and space-saving DIY workshop solution: a wall-mounted, hinged arm crafted from 3/8-inch plywood. Its primary function is to suspend and manage a dust collection hose and power cord for a sander, keeping them clear of the workbench and work area. The system utilizes zip ties and springs for flexible hose suspension, and eyebolts for neat cord routing. A key feature is the use of butt hinges, allowing the entire arm to swing flat against the wall when not in use, making it ideal for optimizing space in any workshop. This setup significantly enhances safety, organization, and efficiency during woodworking tasks. 👍🧼

29/10/2025

This detailed blueprint illustrates the construction of a versatile woodworking jig, likely designed as an adjustable stop block or fence system for a table saw, router table, or similar workshop tool. Its primary purpose is to enable precise, repeatable cuts and operations, significantly enhancing accuracy and efficiency in your projects. The design incorporates robust joinery and adjustable components for maximum utility.

📏 Jig Components & Dimensions Explained

The jig is comprised of three main parts, labeled A, B, and C, along with various fasteners.

Part A: The Adjustable Fence/Stop Block Body 🚧

* Overall Length: 8¼
👉 Height:
* Overall height of the curved sections: 2
* Height of the straight base section: 1
* Thickness: (Implied by the dado in Part B, typically 3/4" stock, but not explicitly dimensioned for thickness on Part A itself).
👉 Features:
* Curved Sections: Designed to be sanded to a ⅜" radius after laminating (suggesting these sections might be built up from multiple layers or shaped from thicker stock). ✨
* Mounting Holes: Three vertical holes are drilled through Part A to secure it to Part B, allowing for adjustment.
* Hole Type: 1/4" diameter (implied by the 1/4" fasteners).
* Spacing (from left to right):
* First hole: 3/4" from the left edge.
* Second hole: 2" from the first hole.
* Third hole: 1¾" from the second hole.

Part B: The Cross-Member Support 🏗️
This component acts as the primary structural support, connecting Part A to the miter gauge slot runner (Part C).

* Overall Width: 1¾" (as seen in the Bottom View).
* Overall Length: 7" (visible section, extends further under Part A).
* Thickness: (Implied to be 3/4" stock, given the 1/2" deep dado).
👉 Features:
* Dado: A precisely cut groove on the top surface to receive Part A.
* Width: 3/4
* Depth: 1/2
* Mounting Holes (for Part A): Three vertical holes align with those in Part A.
* Hole Type: 1/4" hole, countersunk on the bottom surface to accommodate flat-head machine screws. 🔩
* Mounting Holes (for Part C - Bottom View Details):
👉 Top Screw Hole:
* Type: 1/4" hole, countersunk.
* Location: 1" from the top edge of Part B (when viewed from the bottom).
* Middle Screw Holes (two):
* Type: 9/64" shank hole, countersunk (for wood screws).
* Location: 1¼" from the top edge of Part B (when viewed from the bottom).
* Spacing: The two holes are centered within the 1¾" width, with an implied spacing between them (not explicitly dimensioned, but visually centered around the "Location of C").
👉 Bottom Screw Hole:
* Type: 1/4" hole, countersunk.
* Location: 2¼" from the bottom edge of Part B (when viewed from the bottom).

Part C: The Miter Gauge Slot Runner 🏃‍♂️
This component is designed to slide smoothly within a standard miter gauge slot on a table saw or similar machine.

* Stock Dimensions: ⅜" thick x ¾" wide x 12¼" long. 📏
* Purpose: "to fit miter-gauge slot" – ensuring a snug, low-friction fit.
👉 Features:
* Kerf: A saw cut along its length.
* Width: 1/16
* Length: 4½
* Purpose: This kerf likely allows for slight compression or expansion to fine-tune the fit within the miter slot, or to accommodate a wedge for locking.

🔩 Hardware & Fasteners List

* For Attaching Part A to Part B (Adjustable Connection):
* 1/4" Flat Washer: Used under the wing nut.
* 1/4" Wing Nut: For hand-tightening and quick adjustments.
* 1/4" F.H. Machine Screw: 1¾" long (Flat Head, implying it sits flush in a countersunk hole).
* For Attaching Part B to Part C (Permanent Connection):
* #6 x ¾" F.H. Wood Screw: Used for the two middle holes in Part B's bottom view.
* 1/4" F.H. Machine Screw: ⅝" long (Used for the top and bottom holes in Part B's bottom view, securing Part C).

📝 General Construction Notes & Tips

* Sanding: Remember to sand the curved sections of Part A to a ⅜" radius after any laminating or shaping process. ✨
* Countersinking: All screw holes are designed to be countersunk, ensuring that screw heads sit flush or below the surface for a smooth finish and to prevent interference.
* Dado & Kerf Precision: Accurate cutting of the 3/4" dado (1/2" deep) in Part B and the 1/16" kerf (4½" long) in Part C is crucial for the jig's functionality and precision. ⚙️
* Stock Selection: Part C specifies "3/8 x 3/4 x 12 1/4" stock (to fit miter-gauge slot)," emphasizing the importance of selecting material that precisely matches your machine's miter slot dimensions.

💡 Summary

This woodworking plan provides a comprehensive guide for building an adjustable stop block jig. It meticulously details the dimensions, joinery (dados, kerfs), and hardware required for each of its three main components: the adjustable fence (A), the cross-member support (B), and the miter gauge slot runner (C). The design emphasizes precision with countersunk holes, specific screw types, and a kerfed runner for optimal fit. By following these instructions, woodworkers can construct a highly functional tool that will significantly improve the accuracy and repeatability of cuts in their workshop, making complex tasks simpler and more efficient. 🎯✅

29/10/2025

Measurement DIY Table Saw Woodworking

29/10/2025

Table Saw Cart Modified

29/10/2025

Is that a fair price? 🧐

Customer insisted I use the screws she had. I knew it wouldn’t work but hey the customer is always right.. now she’s mad bc she paid $1,200 for me to mount it and it fell. Looks like she’ll be paying another 2,500 for me to patch the drywall and rehang it the right way this time

28/10/2025

Simple Design Table Saw DIY Woodworking

28/10/2025

Dust Collection Workbench

28/10/2025

DIY Table Saw Portable Cart

28/10/2025

Small Garage Workshop

28/10/2025

Briefcase Style Toolboxes

27/10/2025

The image is a visual guide or chart showcasing a variety of router bits used in woodworking. It's designed for clarity and ease of understanding, illustrating the shape of each bit and the resulting profile it creates in the wood.

Key Features:

1. Organization: The image is organized into rows and columns, making it easy to browse and compare different bit types.

2. Visual Representation:
* Router Bit Depiction: Each router bit is depicted in a stylized, simplified manner. The body of the bit is usually silver or gray, and the cutting edges (the part that shapes the wood) are highlighted in yellow. This makes it easy to visually distinguish the shape and function of each bit.
* Cut Profile Depiction: Next to each router bit, there's a light tan or beige area representing a piece of wood. A cut or profile is shown in the wood, indicating the shape the bit will create when used. This is crucial for understanding the purpose of each bit.

3. Labeling: Each router bit and its corresponding cut profile is clearly labeled with a name describing its function or the shape it creates (e.g., "Chamfer Bit," "Roundover Bit," "Dovetail Bit"). The labels are essential for identifying and selecting the correct bit for a specific woodworking task.

4. Bit Types: The image showcases a wide range of router bit types, including:
* Edge Forming Bits: (Chamfer, Roundover, Edge Forming, Rabbeting, Beading, Roman Ogee, Cove, Double Roundover, Classical Cove, Half-Round, Stair Tread, Table Edge, Ovolo, Fluting Bits) Used to shape the edges of wood.
* Joinery Bits: (Dovetail, Dado, Straight, Miter Lock, Drawer Lock, Tongue & Groove, Finger Joint, Box Joint, Reversible Glue Joint Bits) Used to create joints between pieces of wood.
* Specialty Bits: (V-Groove, Cove Box, Keyhole, Multi-Profile, Corner Rounding, Slot Cutter, Butterfly Spline, Bevel Router, Molding, Vase Router, Sign-Making, Bowl & Tray, Slatwall, Window Sash, Inlay, Engraving, Bullnose, Raised Panel Router, Reversible Ogee Bit, Tapered Ballnose Bits) Used for creating specific decorative effects or functional features.

5. Color Palette: The image uses a limited color palette of mostly light shades – silver/gray, yellow/gold, and light tan/beige. This clean, consistent palette enhances clarity and avoids visual clutter.

Specific Bit Types and Their Functions (Examples):

* Chamfer Bit: Creates an angled edge.
* Roundover Bit: Rounds off the edge of the wood.
* Dovetail Bit: Cuts a dovetail joint, a strong and interlocking joint often used in drawers.
* Dado Bit: Cuts a groove (a dado) in a piece of wood.
* Straight Bit: A basic bit for cutting straight lines and grooves.
* V-Groove Bit: Cuts a V-shaped groove.
* Ovolo Bit: Cuts an Ovolo profile.
* Finger Joint Bit: Creates a finger joint for edge gluing.

Overall Purpose:

The image serves as an informative resource for woodworkers, carpenters, hobbyists, and anyone using a router. It allows them to quickly identify and understand the different types of router bits available and their specific applications. It is a practical reference guide.