DTailoress

09/06/2025

✨ Horizontal Body Measurements: Get These Right or Your Fit Will Fight You! ✨

Ever drafted a pattern that looked perfect on paper but ended up looking like a hot mess on the body? 😩
Yeah… that’s probably because your horizontal body measurements were wrong.
Let’s fix that today. Once and for all.👇

🔹 What Are Horizontal Measurements?

They’re the measurements that go around your body, from side to side.
Think of them like invisible belts wrapping around your bust, waist, hips, neck… all those crucial curves that make or break a fit.
Horizontal/round/width = circumference.

B – Bust

📏 What it means: Measure around the fullest part of your bust/chest.
🎯 Why it's important: Crucial for shaping tops and dresses. If this is off? Expect popping buttons and pulling seams.

RUB – Round Under Bust

📏 What it means: Wrap your tape just under your bust (where your bra band sits).
🎯 Why it's important: Used in empire waistlines, fitted bodices, corsets, and crop tops. It defines upper body shaping.

ROB – Round Over Bust

📏 What it means: Measure around your chest, above your bust (just under your armpits).
🎯 Why it's important: Helps balance bust shaping, especially in fitted tops, suits, and jackets.

W – Waist

📏 What it means: Measure around your natural waist,the smallest part of your torso (usually just above the belly button).
🎯 Why it's important: This is your control point for almost every outfit: skirts, gowns, pants, and bodices.

H – Hip

📏 What it means: Measure around the widest part of your hips/butt.
🎯 Why it's important: For shaping skirts, trousers, and dresses. Wrong hip measurement = disaster.

HD – Hip Depth (Vertical, but included here for combo use)

📏 What it means: From waistline down to the fullest part of your hip.
🎯 Why it's important: Helps in balancing top-to-hip ratios in skirts, pants, and dresses.

RT – Round Thigh

📏 What it means: Measure around the fullest part of one thigh.
🎯 Why it's important: For shorts, trousers, and jumpsuits. Too tight = can’t walk. Too loose = shapeless.

RL – Round Lap

📏 What it means: Slightly lower than thigh, where your leg folds when seated.
🎯 Why it's important: Important for fitted pants and seated comfort ,especially for tailored trousers.

RK – Round Knee

📏 What it means: Measure around your knee (standing straight).
🎯 Why it's important: For pencil skirts, pants, or dresses that taper to the knee.

R3Q – Round Three-Quarter

📏 What it means: Measure around your calf, between knee and ankle.
🎯 Why it's important: For shaping midi skirts and pants that stop mid-calf.

RA – Round Ankle

📏 What it means: Measure around the narrowest part of your ankle.
🎯 Why it's important: Used when drafting slim trousers, jumpsuits, or palazzo trousers with ankle cuffs.

RN – Round Neck

📏 What it means: Measure around the base of your neck.
🎯 Why it's important: For designing collars, neckline shaping, and comfortable turtlenecks.

N–N – Ni**le to Ni**le

📏 What it means: Horizontal distance between the apex (center) of each breast.
🎯 Why it's important: Vital for bust dart placements and princess seam shaping. No one wants lopsided busts 😩

RA – Round Armhole

📏 What it means: Wrap the tape around your shoulder and underarm to measure full armhole.
🎯 Why it's important: Helps shape armholes that won’t cut or gape. Especially for sleeveless designs.

RE – Round Elbow

📏 What it means: Measure around the elbow (slightly bent).
🎯 Why it's important: Ensures sleeve fit around the joint especially for ¾ or long sleeves.

RWR – Round Wrist

📏 What it means: Measure around your wrist.
🎯 Why it's important: For fitted cuffs, bangles, and long sleeves. No squeezing or sagging!

RB – Round Bicep

📏 What it means: Measure around the fullest part of your upper arm.
🎯 Why it's important: Prevents tight sleeves that won’t lift. Especially for fitted styles.

RS – Round Sleeve

📏 What it means: Total round of the sleeve opening.
🎯 Why it's important: Affects sleeve width and fit too tight? You won’t be able to move comfortably.

SL-L – Long Sleeve Length

📏 What it means: From shoulder tip to wrist.
🎯 Why it's important: For accurate sleeve cutting, especially in jackets and gowns.

SL-S – Short Sleeve Length

📏 What it means: From shoulder tip to desired short sleeve length.
🎯 Why it's important: For shaping cute tees, puff sleeves, or classic short sleeves.

Strap to Strap

📏 What it means: Horizontal distance from one shoulder strap to the other across your chest.
🎯 Why it's important: For strap tops, tank tops, off-shoulder designs, and neckline balance.

If you get these wrong, every draft you make will lie to you and your clothes will fight your body like an unpaid debt. 😭

⚠️ Beginner Mistakes to Stop Making:

❌ Measuring over sweaters or thick clothing (you’re not building armor 😩)
❌ Pulling the tape too tight (this is measuring, not waist training, sis!)
❌ Leaving it too loose (unless you're making a parachute, NO.)
❌ Guessing or rounding up (tailoring is not vibes and inshallah 😭)

‌ Pro Tips for Clean, Pro-Level Measurements:

✅ Wear fitted clothing or just measure over underwear.
✅ The tape should be snug but not squeezing. You should be able to slide one finger under.
✅ Write them down IMMEDIATELY. Don’t trust your memory, even if you just took them 2 seconds ago.
✅ Double-check. Always.

Drop “MEASURED 💯” in the comments if you're going to check yours today.
📌 Which one confuses you most ...bust or hip? Let’s chat in the comments.
Check our previous post for Vertical body Measurements
👭 Tag someone learning to sew.
📍 Follow this page for daily beginner-friendly drafting tips, tricks, and practical breakdowns.

07/06/2025

✨ STOP MESSING UP YOUR DRAFTS – LEARN THESE VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS FIRST

Let me tell you a secret…
You could draft the prettiest pattern on earth,
But if you get your vertical measurements wrong, your outfit won’t fit right. 🤷🏽‍♀️

Today, let’s break it down together like real fashion besties ✂️

👗 WHAT ARE VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS?

These are measurements that run up and down the body – they tell you length.
They’re ESSENTIAL when you want your clothes to match your body proportion.

SH–B (Shoulder to Bust)
📏 What it means: Measure from the top of your shoulder straight down to the fullest part of your bust.
🎯 Why it's important: This helps you place your bust darts or princess seams in the perfect spot so your top fits your b***s nicely and doesn’t look weird or saggy.

SH–UB (Shoulder to Under Bust)
📏 What it means: From the top of the shoulder down to the point just under your bust (where your bra band sits).
🎯 Why it's important: Essential for creating empire waistlines (those tops or dresses that cut right under the bust). Also helps shape the garment so it hugs your upper body well.

SH–W (Shoulder to Waist)
📏 What it means: From shoulder tip to your natural waist (the smallest part of your torso).
🎯 Why it's important: Used to make sure your blouse, dress, or bodice ends exactly at your waist—no awkward cuts or rides up.

SH–H (Shoulder to Hip)
📏 What it means: From the shoulder straight down to the fullest part of your hip.
🎯 Why it's important: Controls the drop or flare of fitted tops, peplum blouses, and dresses—so your curves are respected not disrespected.

SH–K (Shoulder to Knee)
📏 What it means: From shoulder down to the knee cap.
🎯 Why it's important: Perfect when drafting gowns, pencil skirts, or fitted dresses that stop at the knee—this way, they’re not too short or too long.

SH–3Q (Shoulder to Three-Quarter)
📏 What it means: From shoulder to mid-calf (just between knee and ankle).
🎯 Why it's important: For drafting midi dresses or skirts—the classy, in-between length that gives rich aunty vibes.

SH–A/T (Shoulder to Ankle/Toe)
📏 What it means: From shoulder to your ankle or toe (for floor-length measurements).
🎯 Why it's important: Used for drafting full-length gowns, maxis, abayas, jumpsuits, or palazzo trousers.

SH–CL (Shoulder to Chest Line)
📏 What it means: From shoulder down to the upper part of your chest, above the bust.
🎯 Why it's important: Helps with placing chest darts and drawing princess lines that shape your top beautifully.

SH–EL (Shoulder to Elbow)
📏 What it means: From shoulder to your elbow (arm bent slightly).
🎯 Why it's important: Helps you get your sleeve length correct—especially for ¾ sleeve styles.

SH–WR (Shoulder to Wrist)
📏 What it means: From shoulder down to your wrist.
🎯 Why it's important: For long-sleeved clothes. You don’t want sleeves that stop awkwardly before your wrist.

HL (Half Length)
📏 What it means: Another name for Shoulder to Waist. Used for both front and back bodice drafting.
🎯 Why it's important: It’s a foundation measurement—you can’t create a correct blouse or dress without it.

TL (Top Length)
📏 What it means: From shoulder to where you want your top to stop.
🎯 Why it's important: For designing tops, blouses, or tunics—lets you choose if it's a crop, regular top, or longer blouse.

FL (Full Length)
📏 What it means: From shoulder down to wherever your outfit will end—ankle, knee, or floor.
🎯 Why it's important: Needed for drafting full garments like dresses, gowns, kaftans, or jumpsuits.

Crotch Depth
📏 What it means: Sit on a flat surface and measure from your waist down to the surface—this gives your body’s crotch depth.
🎯 Why it's important: Very important for trousers, shorts, and jumpsuits. If it’s wrong, your pants will either ride up (camel toe, oops!) or sag weirdly.

HU (Hip to Under Butt)
📏 What it means: From the fullest part of your hip to the fold under your butt cheek.
🎯 Why it's important: Helps with short outfits like bum shorts, rompers, and tight skirts so they don’t ride up and get uncomfortable.

SCH – Sleeve Cap Height

📏 What it means: Vertical distance from the top of your armhole curve down to the bicep line.
🎯 Why it's important: Crucial for sleeve head shaping,ensures the sleeve fits into the armhole smoothly.

🚫 COMMON BEGINNER MISTAKES:

❌ Measuring vertically with curves instead of straight lines
❌ Guessing instead of using a measuring tape
❌ Ignoring body posture and stance
❌ Using someone else's measurements for your own draft

✅ PRO TIPS:

✅ Always measure on a standing person, with straight posture
✅ Use a flexible, non-stretch tape
✅ Write your measurements down immediately (Don’t trust memory boo 🧠🚫)
✅ Measure more than once to confirm accuracy

📣 WANT MORE DRAFTING MADE EASY?

I teach DAILY for free right here on this page
🎯 Save this post
💬 Comment “NEXT” if you want me to drop the next tutorial
🔁 Share with your tailor friends – don’t gatekeep good knowledge!

02/06/2025

How Many Yards Do You REALLY Need?

🧵 DETERMINATION OF YARDS OF FABRIC NEEDED (FOR DIFFERENT STYLES)

When sewing, calculating how many yards of fabric to use is important to avoid shortage or wastage. Below are examples using common skirt and bodice styles:

1. 👗 Mermaid Skirt

✅ The fullest part of a mermaid skirt is the hemline (the flared area).

📐 Formula & Calculation:
HIP = 40 inches
HIP × 2 = HEMLINE inches + ALLOWANCE
40 inches × 2 = 80 inches + 4 inches allowance = 84 inches
84 inches ÷ 36 inches (1 yard ) = 2.33 cm
33cm converted into inches is a 12 inches
2.33cm = 2 yards 12 inches
✅ Final Answer: It can be approximated to 2½ yards(or round up to 3 yards if you need extra)

2. 👗 Pencil Skirt

✅ The fullest part of a pencil skirt is the hip.

📐 Formula & Calculation:
HIP = 40 inches
40 inches + 4 inches allowance = 44 inches
44 inches ÷ 36 inches (1 yard ) = 1.22 cm
22cm converted into inches is a 8 inches
1.22cm = 1 yards 8 inches
✅ Final Answer: It can be approximated to 1½ yards(or round up to 2 yards if you need extra)

3. 👚 Upper Bodice (e.g., Top or Blouse)

✅ The bust is usually the fullest part of the upper body.

📐 Formula & Calculation:
Bust = 35 inches
35 inches + 4 inches allowance = 39 inches
39 inches ÷ 36 inches (1 yard ) = 1.08 cm
8cm converted into inches is a 3 inches
1.08cm = 1 yards 3 inches
✅ Final Answer: It can be approximated to 1½ yards(always better to have a little extra)

4. Basic Sleeve (Straight Sleeve)

✅ The fullest part of the sleeve is the bicep area (upper arm).

📐 FORMULA & CALCULATION:
Bicep = 16 inches
16 inches × 2 (for both sleeves) = 32 inches
32 inches + 4 inches allowance = 36 inches
36 inches = 1 yard
✅ Final Answer: 1 yard ( double up to 2 yards if the sleeve is gathered, puffed or flared)

📝 NOTES TO REMEMBER:

✅ 1 yard = 36 inches

✅ Always consider allowance (2–6 inches depending on the style and preference)

✅ Round up if:

You're cutting on bias

You’re using patterns with gathers, pleats, or flares

You're a beginner (room for error!)

✅ Approximate if:

You want a rough idea

You’re estimating for bulk purchase

✅ Fullest parts to consider:

Lower body: Hip

Upper body: Bust (or tummy area in case of pregnancy)

📌 TIP:

It’s better to have a little extra fabric than to run short halfway into cutting. Extra can be used for facings, linings, belts, or matching accessories.

If you want a free printable version of this fabric calculator? Comment “FABRIC GUIDE” and I’ll send it
📌 Save this before you waste another inch of fabric and tag a fashion lover
Which of these always confuses you when buying fabric ( Mermaid, Pencil, or Sleeve ) ?
Let’s talk👇

23/05/2025

23/05/2025

TAILORS & FASHION STUDENTS: STOP STRESSING OVER DECIMALS

When drafting patterns, don’t let confusing numbers slow you down.

If your measurement has a decimal like:25, .5, or .75 — just round UP. Always.

This makes your math easier and your draft cleaner.

APPROXIMATE like this:

• 34.25 → 35
• 35.5 → 36
• 33.75 → 34
• 28.1 → 29 (yes, even small decimals — round up!)

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REAL DRAFTING EXAMPLES:

Bust = 35.5 → approx. 36 → 36 ÷ 4 = 9 inches
Shoulder = 14.25 → approx. 15 → 15 ÷ 2 = 7.5 inches
Waist = 30.75 → approx. 31 → 31 ÷ 4 = 7.75 inches

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WHY ROUND UP?

• It’s easier to divide whole numbers
• You avoid getting stuck on decimals
• It gives you extra allowance — better than clothes being too tight!

---

Round ➕ Divide ➗ Draft ✂️ — that’s your beginner-friendly rhythm.

When I started out, decimals like 36.75 used to freeze my brain.
Now? I see a decimal and I round UP, divide, and draft fast.

This is how you draft smarter, not harder.

Was this helpful?
Comment “YES” if this made your drafting math easier.

19/05/2025

✂️ WHY ACCURATE BODY MEASUREMENT IS THE FOUNDATION OF PERFECT TAILORING 👗

Let’s be honest:
If your measurements are off, your garment won’t fit,no matter how skilled you are at drafting or sewing.

📌 WHY ACCURATE MEASUREMENTS MATTER:

✅ They ensure the garment fits your unique body shape,no guesswork.

🚫 They prevent unnecessary adjustments during sewing.

⏳ They save time, fabric, and frustration.

♻️ They help you create reusable patterns with confidence.

⚠️ COMMON MEASUREMENT MISTAKES TO AVOID:

❌ Pulling the tape too tight or too loose

❌ Standing stiff, slouched, or overly posed while measuring

❌ Measuring over thick clothing instead of light layers

❌ Ignoring body curves like the bust point, waist dips, or hips

📏 OTHER KEY MEASUREMENTS TO CONSIDER (BEYOND THE BASICS):

➕ Upper & Under Bust – For fitted tops, corsets, bras, and princess seams

➕ Back Width & Back Length – For balance and comfort

➕ Armhole Depth & Sleeve Length – Avoid tightness or sagging

➕ Neck Circumference – For collars and neckline finishes

⭐ PRO MEASUREMENT TIPS FOR TAILORS:

✔️ Use a flexible cloth tape,not stiff or metal

✔️ Measure in front of a mirror or ask a helper

✔️ Always label & date your measurements,bodies change.

🧠 MEASUREMENT SAFETY RULE:

When in doubt, round up slightly.
✂️ It’s easier to take in a garment than to let it out,especially when there’s no seam allowance.

📝 NOTE:
"Measure twice, cut once."
Always double-check your numbers before you start drafting.

20/04/2025

✂️✨ WELCOME TO DTAILORESS
MY CREATIVE LEARNING CORNER BUILT JUST FOR YOU.

I’m Edel-queen, founder of DTailoress.
A passionate Fashion Designer and Copywriter...your personal guide to mastering the art of fashion drafting step by step, day by day.

WHAT’S IN THE NAME - DTAILORESS?

It’s more than a name. It’s a method.
D - Details - because great drafting is clear and precise
Tailor - my craft and calling
Ess - my feminine crown of excellence

I teach with structure, like school.
No rush, no confusion. Just easy-to-follow lessons built like a curriculum.

WHAT YOU’LL GET HERE

This isn’t one of those “learn to draft in 5 minutes” pages.
This is a beginner-friendly space where real skills are built from the ground up.

Here’s what you’ll find:
✅ Simple daily drafting tutorials
✅ One clear topic per day no overwhelm
✅ Written guides that explain, not just show
✅ A calm, encouraging environment to learn at your own pace
✅ And a chronicle of my copywriting journey so you can grow with me as I explore the world of Tech

WHY I TEACH THIS WAY

Most beginners don’t fail because they’re not smart.
They fail because online fashion content is usually:
❌ Too fast
❌ Poorly explained
❌ Incomplete or confusing

Here, we slow it down so you can speed up later with confidence.

A BIT ABOUT ME

I live in Imo State, Nigeria. I run a made to order fashion service for clients who want stunning, stylish, well fitted outfits.

And because I believe in staying relevant in a digital world, I also share episodes from my Copywriting journey teaching you how to combine fashion with tech for smarter work, better content, and bigger income.

WHO THIS PAGE IS FOR

Fashion beginners who want to learn drafting from scratch

Aspiring designers who need structure, not stress

Clients who want custom outfits made with love and precision

Creatives ready to mix style and tech and grow their digital skills

WHAT I WANT FOR YOU

To feel confident.
To draft your own blocks,not rely on free templates.
To finally become the fashion designer and digital creative you dream of being.

IF YOU’VE EVER SAID:

“Drafting is too hard.”
“I just want someone to explain it slowly...”
“I want to learn TECH but don’t know where to start...”

THIS IS YOUR HOME.

LET’S CONNECT AND GROW

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/

TikTok (Fashion): https://www.tiktok.com/

TikTok (Tech):
https://www.tiktok.com/

LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/edel-queen-ohale

Follow me for daily drafting and tech inspiration
Send a DM if you want to order your own custom outfit or eBooks



Check comments below for my community links 👇

11/04/2025

Contouring necklines can make a huge difference in how they sit and flatter your body.

In pattern drafting, the perfect place to contour and tighten any neckline is the bust point (apex).
Here’s why 👇
The bust point is the center of your body’s curves, so when you contour there, you’re ensuring the neckline fits properly around your shape. This creates a smooth, flattering fit that hugs the body without gaping or pulling.

If you contour to the armhole or along the shoulder, you risk losing the natural shape and causing the neckline to sit incorrectly. Plus, it might become too loose or even misshaped.
So no matter the neckline design, remember to anchor your contour to the bust point,whether you’re working on a V, boat, scoop, or any other neck design.
Save this pro tip for your next project and share it with other sewmates .