Roads and Kingdoms

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Roads and Kingdoms

Food, travel, journalism—and a new way to be part of it. R&K Insiders. http://roadsandkingdoms.com
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Roads & Kingdoms is an independent journal of food, politics, travel and culture. Now launching The League of Travelers, the world's deepest culinary tours

03/06/2026

In the Picos de Europa mountains of Asturias, a dwindling few master cheesemakers till make Gamonéu cheese using a method passed down for generations.

It starts with a raw blend of cow, goat, and sheep’s milk from herds that graze on high-altitude pastures. After the wheels are shaped and salted, they are lightly smoked over a wood fire and then hauled up a mountain to be placed into natural limestone caves. There, they age for at least a month, developing their distinct, sharp flavor from the wild molds and yeasts inside the caves.

We’ll visit these secret caves on Day 3 of our Asturias: From Sky to Sea journey alongside one of the last traditional Gamonéu cheesemakers, together with Asturian fixer and filmmaker Alejo Sabugo (), and R&K host and journalist Rafael Tonon ().

See the itinerary at the link in bio.

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02/06/2026

Reale () is what people have come to call a “destination restaurant,” though the term hardly captures the sense of arrival that comes with getting there. The journey through the hilly slopes and vineyards of Abruzzo pays off in slow revelation: a turn here, a climb there, until a former monastery in the Sangro Valley appears.

The latest subjects of our Food Chain column by Rafa Tonon (), siblings Niko () and Cristiana Romito () have spent over two decades building something quietly radical. Niko’s three-Michelin-star kitchen operates as a place of investigation, considered by many to be one of the finest culinary destinations on the continent. Cristiana shapes the dining room with the same precision: formal but never stiff, mirroring the logic of the kitchen.

Join Insiders at the link in our bio to read the full story and see where the chain leads next.

01/06/2026

“Brooklyn is at its best when it’s having fun for its own sake and serving its own people,” says Clay Williams (), the James Beard Award-winning photographer and Black Food Folks () co-founder who shares his recommendations for our city guide series The Fix.

Clay grew up in Bed-Stuy when it was, as he puts it, “not the place folks went—in the era of Do the Right Thing.” He spent nearly 30 years there before rising rents pushed him out around 2014, and has spent the dozen years since in Sunset Park, one of the few corners of Brooklyn that has so far resisted the full force of gentrification. As a photographer and organizer, he works today to document—and help preserve—Brooklyn’s rich, multiethnic food culture.

Swipe for a few of Clay’s picks for The Fix. Link in bio to join Insiders and access a new member-only guide every week.

28/05/2026

Oostduinkerke, a village on the southwest coast of Belgium is the last place on earth where the practice of horseback shrimp-fishing still goes on as it has for centuries.

Known locally as paardenvissers, a tight-knit group of just a dozen or so households still take their Brabant horses into the shallow waters of West Flanders for three hours around low tide. The horses wade chest-deep parallel to the shoreline, dragging chains along the seabed to startle local brown shrimp up into funnel-shaped nets.

On day four of our journey through Belgium, we will witness this disappearing tradition with Willem Hiele (), one of Europe’s most fascinating chefs, whose eponymous restaurant and guesthouse (where we’ll spend two glorious nights) is currently number 62 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

The Holy Belgian Beerlands runs Nov 9-14, 2026, led by three of the world’s leading experts on beer—legendary brewmaster Garrett Oliver (), celebrated food writer Eugenio Signoroni () and Roy Milner () of Blackberry Farm Brewery ().

Link in bio to view the full itinerary and secure your spot.

27/05/2026

You may think you know what Goa is about, but you have no idea.

This November, the pioneering Kerala-born chef Thomas Zacharias (), founder of the food-systems platform The Locavore (.in), is leading us south to explore a side of the state unknown even to most Indians.

The Other Side of Goa — Nov 8–15, 2026.

Joined by Roads & Kingdoms executive editor Charly Wilder (), Chef Zac will introduce us to the hidden foodways and ancestral traditions of the Konkan Coast. We’ll explore ancient Khazan tide-farming systems on Chorao Island, cook hay-smoked mackerel at a Hindu farmstead, and spend a day with master distiller Hansel Vaz for a Feni tasting at a table set in the middle of a forest pond.

Limited spots. Visit the link in bio for the full day-by-day itinerary and booking.

26/05/2026

Next up in the R&K 50, our definitive, unranked global restaurant list: La Br**ca (), tucked away in the Graveglia Valley of Liguria, Italy.

“Nothing here is anything less than extraordinary,” writes the acclaimed Italian food writer Eugenio Signoroni (). “The Circella family’s osteria is a true monument to hospitality, to its land, and to wine.”

At La Br**ca, safeguarding the rugged Ligurian hinterland is a way of life. Sergio and Pierangela Circella run the front of house and kitchen, respectively, while their son Simone cooks with uncle Roberto, carrying on the long artisanal labor and ancestral recipes passed down by Nonna Franca.

The menu shifts entirely with the daily availability of local farms. It’s a kitchen defined by texture and time, where you’ll find daily mortar-pounded pesto, handmade herb ravioli in a rich local hazelnut sauce, and Tomaxelle (veal rolls) braised in a deeply savory tomato gravy. Downstairs, Simone’s twin brother Matteo manages a legendary wine cellar that boasts more than 2,800 treasures.

Read the full R&K 50 in our first print issue, available for purchase at the link in bio.

22/05/2026

“A gastronome who is not an environmentalist is a fool, but an environmentalist who is not a gastronome is a sad one.”

You’ll read many quotes from the great Carlo Petrini, father of the movement, in the wake of his death yesterday at age 76. “But this one captures, better than most, the spirit with which he loved to make revolution,” writes his longtime student and collaborator Eugenio Signoroni () in an essay for our members-only newsletter.

“There is no change without pleasure. No justice without joy. No reform without beauty. And it was never a celebration without music.”

Read the rest of the piece, remembering the life of Carlo Petrini, at the link in our bio.

22/05/2026

Forget New York. Is Hanoi the real city that never sleeps?

That’s the contention of pioneering distiller and researcher Daniel Nguyen (), who helps us navigate the city In the latest installment of our city guide series The Fix.

From morning rituals at wholesale wet markets to the holy culinary trinity of bia hơi, pho, and century-old bánh mì, Daniel guides us through a city where centuries of Sino, French, and Soviet architecture layer over an indomitable 24-7 creative energy.

Swipe for a first look at Daniel’s picks. Link in bio to join Insiders and unlock the full guide.

21/05/2026

In less than a decade, Ikoyi () has established itself as one of the most distinctive restaurants in London—no small feat in a dining scene as crowded and fast-moving as the British capital.

The latest focus of our Food Chain column by , Ikoyi owes much of its sucesss to the kitchen led by Jeremy Chan (), which has evolved without fear of risk, refining a style—and, above all, an identity—that resists easy categorization.

Join Insiders at the link in our bio to read the full story and see where the chain leads next.

18/05/2026

In the James Beard-nominated feature “Caracas Cocuy Crawl,” published in our first print issue, Brazilian journalist Rafael Tonon () tracks the high-proof revival of an ancestral spirit that, for decades, was forced into the shadows of Venezuelan culture. Reported before the January 2026 U.S. capture of Nicolás Maduro dramatically reshaped the country’s political landscape, the story captures Caracas in a moment of uneasy reinvention.

Long dismissed as a rustic moonshine, cocuy emerged during the country’s socio-economic crisis as a symbol of defiance and reconnection. Accompanied by illustrations by Iranian artist Roham Fayazi (), the piece maps a city rediscovering its taste for itself—from clandestine distillers in the semi-desert to the sleekest bars in Las Mercedes—as Caracas bartenders and chefs swap imported labels for a spirit that balances smoke and herbal notes in a way nothing else does.

Read the full story in our latest print issue, available now via the link in bio or through Insiders membership.

Adres

Rotterdam

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