27/04/2026
Suddenly losing the track in the first hour of a 15km day may seem an ominous sign to some, but to be honest, this was the kind of back country tramping I enjoy. The messy windfall fell awkwardly along the already narrow track. Going around was easy enough, and turned out even easier to lose the track.
It took about 45 minutes to get back on track. I wasn't too worried as the GPS showed me walking parallel to the 'track' and heading towards Waipai Swamp. A glimpse of blue sky popped through the trees and I figured I was at my first landmark. Although relieved I didn't have to bush bash anymore, I was a bit deflated at my lack of progress on the NZTopo50.
After a quick snack break, I carried on, rewarded with some clean track to get my confidence back. The terrain itself wasn't hard, just overgrown. Ferns often covered the already narrow path, and the orange markers were few and far between. When you're only 152cm, ferns at half a metre (some over a metre tall) changes how you move through the bush. Sections with steep drop-offs on one side don't usually bother me, but when you can't see if your next step is a solid one, going fast isn't the best option.
By the time I reached Lake Ruapani that afternoon, I already knew that I probably wouldn't make it to Sandy Bay Hut that night. I made the most of the daylight that was left and planned to make it out of the bush, and camp somewhere near water. Puna Hokoi was my camp for the night - welcomed with a hiss by a juvenile possum nearby.
I woke up to mist rising from the water and frost all around me. It had been a chilly night, especially when my 43 year old bladder refused to wait until daylight. I had to get up three times! After packing up camp and defrosting my boots (couldn't even untie the laces for 10 mins), I took one more look at my camp for the night, grateful for the unplanned adventure.
After a full day in the thick bush, it was nice to see the sunlight shimmering on Lake Waikareiti. You can tell this track was well used - it was clean, plenty of markers and so much easier to navigate. After less than three hours, the car park popped out of nowhere. My dusty, faithful chariot, Betty the RAV, patiently waiting to take me home.