LongWhiteGypsy (2026)

28/11/2025

Ready for a different kind of adventure.

This one’s been on the list for a year, and I hope I can do myself proud.

Wish me overcast skies and a tailwind 🤞

08/11/2025

I am utterly heartbroken 💔

It’s hard to describe how this makes me feel. This place isn’t just special to me. It’s home. It’s my whenua. It’s a huge part of where and why I became who I am today.

For 20+ years this place has been a source of awe, interest, imagination, education and peace for me.

It’s heartrending to see a wall of flame encroach onto tracks and paths I’ve walked so many times. I know these grasses, these rocks, these sands, these hills better than I know myself.

Today, I feel like I’m losing a part of myself.

But it will regrow. Mother Nature will re-heal and re-sow this whenua just like it has many times before.

God speed to all those helping to fight this terrible tragedy on the ground and from the air. We’re all behind you ❤️

📸 photo credit Niamh Skogstad via Stuff.

08/07/2025

Today marks 7 years since I posted the very first video on YouTube.

Along every step of the way, I have had your support - you have been through it all with me, and in so many cases you have been the reason for pushing past my barriers, often against all odds, to achieve great heights outside of my comfort zone.

I’ve grown so much since this journey began, and I have you all to thank for that. I know I have inspired so many of you to get out there and push your own boundaries too, and I am truly honoured to have played a part in that.

Let’s celebrate together by looking back on some of my highlight moments:

1. Cape Rēinga, 4 Nov 2019 (TA SOBO)
2. Pouakai Circuit, 1 Apr 2018 (my first attempt at an overnight hike)
3. Tarawera Trail, 10 Feb 2019 (our first 5+ hour trek, outside of the TAC)
4. Tama Lakes Track, 31 Dec 2018 (my first proper solo day hike)
5. Waihohonu Track, 1 Aug 2020 (my first and only overnight hike with Dad)
6. Island Bay Wellington, 31 Jan 2020 (TA SOBO)
7. Whakapapaiti Valley Track, 1 Feb 2020 (my first overnight trip since the TA)
8. Sawdust Bay, Rakiura Track, 18 Dec 2020 (my second ever solo tramp)
9. Tongariro Northern Circuit, 6 Apr 2021 (my fav ever tramp, and my second home)
10. Blyth Hut, 15 Jan 2022 (my first tramp where I encountered not a single soul)
11. Tama Lakes Track, 25 May 2020 (returning to a fav with a better camera)
12. Ho**er Valley Track, 20 June 2023 (my first hike at Mt Cook)
13. Lake Rotoiti Circuit, 9 Dec 2023 (my first multi-day trip in Nelson Lakes)
14. Anne Hut, St James Walkway, 31 Mar 2023 (finally completing the St James)
15. Tasman Lake Track, 20 Jun 2023 (three hikes in a weekend)
16. Mueller Hut Campsite, 4 Jan 2025 (bucket list hike)
17. Mt Sunday (Edoras), 4 Nov 2023 (early birthday hike to a long-awaited destination)
18. Lake Matheson Sunset, 12 Aug 2024 (to get THAT photo)
19. Castle Hill, 13 Aug 2023 (playing among the limestone tors)
20. Caples Valley, Greenstone Caples Track, 22 Apr 2025 (my most recent tramp).

03/07/2025

One excellent thing about living in the big smoke now?

Many more opportunities to go to events such as this one, where I get to network with people from my community.

Exactly what the doctor ordered, and I can’t wait to hear from Victoria from this evening - her story is so incredibly inspiring and brave and should remind us all how much strength we have inside us!

30/06/2025

Gettin’ back into it.

Making more effort to squeeze (literally) as much of my preferred life into my actual life as I can.

Opened the latest issue of at my local coffee shop on day job lunch break today and look where it fell open…

Who knows where this cracker of a campsite is?

21/03/2025

TA SOBO 2025 Day 5
Twizel to Lake Ohau

I do not recommend being in and around the Mackenzie region over Christmas / New Year.

Our arrival to Twizel was met by closed doors and an abandoned reception at the Twizel holiday park, and a lack of any other options. After a panicked message on the TA Facebook forum, however, a local trail angel came to our aid and we could relax for the rest of the day.

Most TA hikers walk the next section through to Ohau, but I was here and I had a bike, so I decided to carry on following the A2O route on two wheels. I’d be solo today - Petra wasn’t feeling too good, so she would hitch back to Tekapo to pick up my car, ready for stage 3 of our adventures.

It was drizzly and rainy at 7.30am when I left Twizel. The gloom so oppressive that I found myself wishing I didn’t have to do this ride today.

By the time I reached the dam at Lake Ruataniwha, however, the drizzle had stopped although the skies were overcast still. At least it was only 35km to the lodge at Lake Ohau where I’d leave my bike and the TA for this season.

A long, straight and rather boring canal road took me through to the Lake Ohau control gates. I stopped to scoff a scone and have a quick drink. It was cold, and the wind resistance along the last section had taken a bit of energy.

I was ready to settle in for the final boring 12kms or so through to the village, when I crossed a weir and came onto the most beautiful gravel track along the lake edge. There was no one around for miles, and I felt I had the place entirely to myself.

The 7km Lake Ohau track follows the southern edge of the lake and is quite possibly one of the most beautiful short tracks in this region. With Ben Ohau rising commandingly across the water, and surrounded by the remnants of this summer’s lupin season, it promises to be even more gorgeous in the height of spring.

For today, though, I’d found a very wide grin, and it wasn’t leaving my face. I whizzed along at high speed, giggling like a kid. All too soon, it was over, and I found myself considering for a brief moment whether to go back and do it all again.

Alas, the bike needed to be returned by lunchtime, and Petra would be waiting for me so with a small sigh I got back on the bike and hit the road.

A short but fast road ride later and I was at Lake Ohau village, a reasonably small lakeside settlement comprised entirely of baches. Popular in summer for its watersports, tramping and outdoor activities, Lake Ohau really comes into its own during the winter months when it draws swathes of skiers and winter tourists, ready to hit the slopes.

Right now, it was sleepy and quiet, barely a soul disturbed me on the remainder of the ride through to the lodge, where I ascended the first and only hill of the trip and locked my bike into the racks outside the lodge, bidding it a final farewell.

Sitting in the lodge parlour, as I waited for my ride, I reflected on what the last two days had meant to me.

I’ve come a long way since the days of my youth, giving up at the first sign of trouble or when things got a little bit too difficult.

Now, when faced with a change of plans, my attitude more often than not is to make the most of it, recalibrate and reset, look for another alternative and make the best of a bad situation. It was that attitude that had led me to turn the ‘failure’ of this latest TA section hike into a completely different adventure, one that still allowed me to connect to the TA route, but in a slightly different way. By letting go of rigid expectations, I’d actually had a lot of fun.

And even then, I had no idea where it would lead.

For now, I was satisfied and excited for the days ahead. Petra and I had no plans to leave the Mackenzie yet. And our biggest adventure was still to come…

18/03/2025

TA SOBO Day 4
Tekapo to Twizel

The next day, Petra and I caught a ride to Methven, where we ate lots of greasy food and then waited for my parents to collect us. We dropped her at Ashburton so she could carry on south, and I bid her a brief farewell with a promise to see her again soon.

Three days later I was pulling into Tekapo village, reunited with Petra, and with a plan afoot.
I’d decided not to continue on along the TA route from Coleridge, as it would have involved four days of walking through the Hakatere region to the Rangitata River. It promised to be a highly exposed route, challenging at my current level of fitness, and not suitable for someone still recovering from a bad case of sunburn.

Considering my options, and with a little input from Petra, who was no longer enjoying the trail and keen to make a change, I decided instead to pick up again at Tekapo with the famous 58km bike along the Tekapo Canal to Twizel. It had all the hallmarks of adventure, with the comfort of still being in civilisation at the end of the day.

And so it was that on New Years’ Day, Petra and I collected our hire bikes from the lovely (and super helpful) Annie at BeSpoke Bike Tours NZ, and headed off on our way.

I simply cannot put into words how much I enjoyed this ride. And how much it has literally set wheels in motion since.

Within the first 15 minutes I was having a whale of a time, whizzing along the gravel backroads of Tekapo to the beginning of the canal. From there basking in the endless skies and bright blue wonder of the Mackenzie region, by far my favourite place in the country with the exception of the Central Plateau (and my second home), enjoying Petra’s company and this new kind of adventure.

It was a total of 55kms to bike through to Tekapo it seemed impossible, but we stopped often for photo and rest breaks, including once right next to the state highway.

Aoraki slowly became more and more visible on the snow-capped spine of the southern alps that grew ever larger as the day passed. The canal was our constant, ever-present on our right, ensuring we wouldn’t lose our way. Soon we were whizzing downhill towards Lake Pukaki, and despite the fun I was starting to feel the effects of the effort on already hot and burnt skin.

A quick dunk in Pukaki whilst we broke for lunch was enough to get me through the next couple of hours as we wound our way along the lake shore on gorgeous single track to the Pukaki Visitor centre and eventually the start of the Pukaki Flats Track.

Here, the sky truly opened up in the majesty of the tussock-covered and barren landscape of the Mackenzie high country. I whizzed along a short section of single track through a gorgeous forest before fangirling hard as this once-huge LOTR fan had her own Pelennor Fields adventure.

By the time we reached Twizel I was exhausted but satisfied. The only thing that remained was to find a place to stay.

Which, at such a busy time of year, proved much more difficult than we were ever to suspect.

05/03/2025

TA SOBO Day 03
Trustpower Camp to Lake Coleridge

I barely slept a wink. I could feel my body fighting the burn, using up precious energy. So when I woke, I was exhausted.

I faced a 28km walk through to Lake Coleridge. All on gravel. My body ached, not just from the sunburn, but also from the few hours of gravel walking I’d already done yesterday.

Quick calculation: At a pace of 5km/hr it will take me almost 6 hours to reach Coleridge. I wasn’t sure I could manage 5km/hr though, which meant I was probably facing a 7-8hr day. In the bright sunshine.

I’d have no choice but to cover my legs with the only long layer I had - my rain pants. The heat of the sun was already becoming apparent. But I had no choice. I had to do this.

I forced breakfast into a worried stomach. Packed my tent and gear into my pack. Suited up. And headed out.

Straight into a hill climb. But at the top the Harper valley stretched out in front of me and I took a brief moment to consider how far I’d come the previous day.

A TA trail walker road sign gave unfriendly vibes, the head portion bearing the marks of what looked suspiciously like bullet holes.

I’d met two bike packers at camp last night. We’d swapped adventure stories and I’d revelled in tales of their two-wheeled expeditions. One of them made no bones about telling me the owner of Glendale Station, which I’d been walking through since lunchtime yesterday and would continue through today, had a notorious aversion to hikers and bikers.

I walked. And walked. And walked. The sun rose higher, but for now I was walking eastward and it was in front of me.

On and on I went. And as the sun rose higher, the snaking line of the dusty and corrugated road underfoot shone brilliant and blinding white as it wound its way into the distance.

Past Lake Henrietta. Then Lake Selfe. The road was busier now, and I inhaled a cloud of dust each time a ute went barrelling past, throwing up a hand in gratitude for the odd one which slowed down to a crawl as they passed.

My watch beeped 7km as I rounded a bend and found the only small bit of shade so far. I sat on the inside corner to take a breather, take my shirt off and cool down for a moment.

I wanted to focus on taking this walk in 7km increments. But I was disheartened. It had taken 2 hours to clock this first leg.

With the strength of mind only a TA thru hiker knows, I picked myself up and carried on.

On past Lake Evelyn with a singular focus in mind - to make it to the Homestead Road intersection, where I planned to take another break.

Only a few kilometres further, the road crossed a bridge over the Ryton River. The afternoon sun was behind me now and burned mercilessly through my rain pants. One way or another, I was getting down into that stream. Luckily, a gate made for easy access.

The briefest thought I may very well be trespassing passed through my mind before I dropped my pack, took my pants and shirt off and waded thigh-deep into the fast-flowing river. Throwing handfuls of the cool water over my legs, I stood in the freezing flow for what felt like an age before I couldn’t take it anymore. I dunked my shirt in the water, then headed back up the track towards the road and another decent hill climb.

Time dragged. Minutes felt like hours. All the while, the sun got hotter. Traffic was increasing, holidaymakers towing boats and jet skis. I considering throwing out a thumb but thought better of it. I could do this. I just needed to harden up.

An hour later I found another patch of shade. My watch battery was dead, but I didn’t need it to know I was crawling along. I’d barely made it half way. There were still 15 gruelling kilometres left to walk.

I had to face facts. It was time to ask for help.

My first attempt at catching a ride went flying by in a cloud of dust.

The second stuck.

Before long I was whizzing along in the back of a van towards Coleridge. I’d hoped to pick up the Lake Hill track, but my rescuers kept driving, thinking they were doing me a favour by taking me all the way to the village. I was grateful for it, but only later.

Arriving at the Powerhouse Lodge, I felt a failure. I’d made a huge mistake, one that was going to cost me the rest of this adventure.

Even unexpectedly reuniting with Petra didn’t do much to cheer me up. Or the sweating can of coke. Or the steaming bowl of hot chips.

But slowly, as the afternoon and then the evening wore on, although the redness in my legs developed further, a plan began to form.

It might not have been what I had originally planned, but it promised to be just as epic.

09/02/2025

TA SOBO 25 Day 02
Hamilton Hut to Trustpower Camp

I resolved to start the new day in the same place I’d left it. I was in absolutely no rush to get anywhere. It was likely to be only a 4-5 hour walk to the next camp, and the day was dawning sunny and beautiful.

A leisurely breakfast, followed by an even more leisurely chat with Petra and Anurag resulted in the swapping of IG handles and final goodbyes.

It was after 9am by the time I left. And disaster almost struck immediately when I realised I’d left my trekking poles back at the hut! Thankfully, it was only a short backtrack.

I took the quick side trip to Mirror Tarn on the way back to the main track. Dropping my pack, I headed up a steep incline and then whipped round a small loop which offered a couple of glimpses of the otherwise unspectacular tarn.

Back at the junction I hefted my pack on again… and promptly headed off in the wrong direction.

I realised within a kilometre or so, and laughed my way back to the main route.

The track quickly emerged into the wide Harper river valley, and I found myself on the 4WD track which crossed and re-crossed the river on its way down.

It was beautiful and crystal clear river-hopping. And I was having the time of my life.

Until I found myself knee-deep in boggy marshland trying to sidle around a stand of matagouri. The complete lack of markers and a not always easy-to-see 4WD track was testing my patience, so I opted to just follow the obvious instead - the river.

The sun was out but there was a chill to the wind which, coupled with the fact I was in and out of the river, led to my decision not to apply sunblock straight away. The lack of the telltale burning sensation at my lunch stop a couple of hours later also convinced me sunblock probably wasn’t quite necessary yet.

Feeling much stronger mentally than yesterday, my mind was nevertheless occupied with the thought of two ‘major’ river crossings that I was facing solo. First, the Harper below the Pinnacles, which turned out to be straightforward and not much more than ankle deep.

Second, the Avoca. I was haunted by the voices of the Arthur’s Pass DOC ranger and Anurag, both of whom had said the Avoca was deep and swift.

And here I was, having to cross it all alone.

I walked upstream a short way before deciding to cross on a downstream angle just at the confluence of two small forks. Halfway across I thought I’d picked a good spot, until the riverbed dropped sharply away and I found myself almost mid-thigh deep struggling to stay upright.

I had to force a thought through my mind. Slow and steady. Don’t move until you have two solid points of contact.

In no time, I was on the opposite bank, feeling slightly silly. This was one of the more minor crossings of the TA South Island route. Nevertheless, it was major for me, and I was glad to get through.

Feeling like camp wasn’t far now, I made my way back to the 4WD track, where all of a sudden a procession of 4WDs began passing me. This continued on for the next hour or so as I made my way to the Trustpower Campsite at the end of the long gravel road.

By the time I arrived, I was exhausted. Although the distance and time walked was less than the previous day, the amount of time spent on gravel was hard on the body.

I hobbled around camp, and lay in my tent for a couple of hours recovering.

Only to discover as I finally emerged for dinner, that I had in fact burnt my legs to a crisp.

This hike just got a whole lot harder.

03/02/2025

It’s been over a month, and after taking a well needed break, I’m finally ready to start posting from my summer (mis)adventures.

TA SOBO 25 Day 01
Cora Lynn Rd to Hamilton Hut

As most of you know, my plan was to do some back to back sections on the TA. I only had 11 days of leave, so I decided to walk from Arthur’s Pass through to the Rangitata River - approx 8 -9 days with a rest day at Lake Coleridge between.

The weather was rainy and overcast on the way to Arthur’s, which matched my mood. I’d barely spoken to my parents and was fighting back tears by the time they left me at the drop off on Cora Lynn Rd.

The tears started almost as soon as they were out of sight. And didn’t stop until I reached Lagoon Saddle 3.5hrs later.

I was spiralling so much that I barely considered my initial plan to stay at Lagoon Saddle A-frame for the night. There was a risk the Harper River was running high and I’d have to backtrack. But I didn’t care.

If I stopped walking now, there was also a real risk I’d get myself into some serious trouble.

I thought about this a lot as I began the descent from the saddle, through some of the most beautiful lush beech forest I’ve hiked in a while. Provided Long Creek was crossable, my plan was now to camp at Windy Creek.

But there wasn’t a soul around. For all I knew, I was the only person in this valley.

Somewhere between Lagoon Saddle and Long Creek, though, a familiar feeling washed over me. It was that ‘TA’ feeling, the one where every part of the track is unnecessarily difficult and challenging, but you have to keep moving forwards anyway because what other choice is there.

I recognised it immediately and was comforted. Then a clear thought passed through my head. “I know how to do this.”

It was the moment I’d been waiting for, four years in the making. An old friend, holding out a hand just the right moment, pulling me back from the edge of oblivion.

By the time I reached Windy Creek I felt more settled, my feet were lighter and swifter. But I knew that camping alone risked being blindsided by another breakdown as the comfort of the day’s last light faded.

Strangely, though, after 5 hours of walking I was still feeling energetic. I simply didn’t feel like stopping.

So I didn’t.

On towards West Harper Hut, not nearly as ‘creepy’ as everyone made out, although the sandflies were nightmarish.

On along the verdant banks of the Harper whilst small and then larger droplets of the wet stuff fell from pregnant clouds above, then stopped almost as quickly.

On over the Harper swingbridge, and then the smaller one crossing the Hamilton River.

And shortly thereafter to reach Hamilton Hut, over 19km and 6 hours later.

It was a big day for my first one out the gate. But as soon as I arrived I realised why I was there.

Inside, were my people.

Three NOBO TA hikers, already deep in discussion, debriefing the day and contemplating the next. I slotted in like the missing piece of a puzzle.

Later, another SOBO hiker turned up - Petra. We told stories, galvanised by our shared struggles on this trail, until sleep beckoned.

As I closed my eyes on the day, I couldn’t help the overwhelming feeling that this was exactly where I was supposed to be. The lullaby of the trail singing me gently to the deepest sleep I’d had in weeks.

30/12/2024

[oops - reposting because the sound was missing from the previous one 🫣]

Well we’re here. Final post of 2024.

A couple of weeks ago I was looking at my 2023 wrap up reel and realised…

It’s not until we reflect on the things that have happened that we appreciate how far we’ve come.

Like so many others, I find this time of year incredibly difficult. To us, it’s a reminder of all the things we haven’t achieved… which is why it’s so important to remember what we HAVE achieved.

This year I feel like I’ve finally found the joy in hiking for hiking’s sake. I’m less negative on the trails and more excited to just get out there and do it. It’s still hard, but I don’t have the same anxiety about going it alone as I once did.

I’ve also been reflecting a lot on something super personal that came up for me for the first time in December 2023.

At a time where women of a certain age are either expected to be dutiful homebodies popping out kids and managing successful careers, or else strong independent solo types who don’t need to rely on a partner to survive, there’s a massive stigma around admitting one simple thing.

So I’m gonna be vulnerable and admit it right now for all of us single 30-something women out there:

That even though society says we SHOULDN’T need a significant other to complete our lives, it’s actually okay to just WANT one.

After years of battling with that very concept, I’m finally ready to admit it. To myself, and to all those other strong wahine out there in the same boat.

This year I decided to start opening my heart and life for that special someone again. I’ve put myself out there more this year than in the last 10.

I haven’t found him yet. I might not for many years. But despite the effort I know it will be, and the heartbreak that will find me along the way, I’ll keep searching.

Because even though I know I CAN do life alone, I no longer WANT to.

I’m inviting the universe to send love my way. Because I think after all this time, I’ve proven I deserve it.

And you do too.

From my heart to yours, whoever you are and wherever you are in your journey, know that I have your back. Be brave. Choose happiness for yourself.

Happy New Year 😘

29/12/2024

A much more positive update today!

Sorry yesterday was left (unintentionally) on a negative note, but I’m doing great and I’m so grateful for all your support!

You guys are what keeps me going, and I’m so lucky to have you all ❤️❤️❤️

LongWhiteGypsy

28/11/2025

08/11/2025

08/07/2025

03/07/2025

30/06/2025

21/03/2025

18/03/2025

05/03/2025

09/02/2025

03/02/2025

30/12/2024

29/12/2024

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