23/12/2024
Reviving Abra’s Natural Dye Industry: Tradition, Sustainability, and Community
By: Lira Maranan
Photos courtesy of Abel Ti Itneg
The province of Abra, with its rich cultural heritage, is home to the indigenous Itneg people, renowned for their traditional weaving and dyeing arts. For centuries, these communities used natural plant-based dyes not only for their textiles but also for traditional tattooing. Indigo and sapang wood, for instance, played crucial roles in creating vibrant colors that carried deep cultural meanings. However, this age-old practice, once a source of livelihood and a symbol of Itneg identity, faced disruption during historical events like the liberation period in 1945 when much of Abra’s thriving industry was destroyed.
A Legacy of Resilience
In the mid-20th century, there was a renewed interest in preserving and reviving these traditional arts. A pivotal moment came in 1959 when the Katutubong Filipino Foundation partnered with the Philippine Textile Research Institute to launch the Katutubong Kulay project. This initiative aimed to revitalize the natural dyeing practices and support local artisans and farmers. Although not directly led by Luis Agaid Sr., the project flourished under his leadership in the local natural dyeing scene.
Despite these efforts, by 1995, the project had slowed down, leaving Abra's natural dye industry in a state of hiatus for nearly a decade. It wasn't until 2015 that Luis Agaid Jr., inspired by the legacy of his father and encouraged by community members and friends, began the difficult task of reviving the industry. He collaborated with government agencies such as the Philippine Textile Research Institute, the Department of Science and Technology (DOST-CAR and Abra), the Department of Labor and Employment (DOLE), the Technical Education and Skills Development Authority (TESDA), the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI), and the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA). This collaboration provided essential support, training, and equipment that laid the groundwork for a sustainable resurgence.
The Natural Dyeing Process
Abra’s natural dyeing process is a testament to the harmonious relationship between the community and the environment. The production begins with the collection of local plants used for dyes, such as malatayum (indigo) for blue, sapang wood for red, tawa-tawa leaves for yellow, bangka-bangkaan for green, talisay leaves for black, mahogany bark for brown, and annatto seeds for orange. The raw materials are then boiled and subjected to fermentation, a process that can take up to 48 hours in large drums. The pigments that settle at the bottom are collected, dried, and turned into powder, which artisans can use for dyeing fabric.
While labor-intensive, the entire process showcases sustainable practices. Farmers collaborate with weavers and dyers to ensure a consistent supply of raw materials, while workshops and training programs focus on passing these skills down to the youth. The Namarabar Indigo Natural Dye Cooperative, for instance, plays a vital role in promoting community-based production.
Sustainability and Regeneration
Abra’s natural dyeing industry is not just about creating beautiful textiles; it’s about fostering a sustainable way of life. The process of using plant-based dyes is eco-friendly, as it avoids the harmful chemicals associated with synthetic dyes. Moreover, the collaboration with local farmers ensures that the industry contributes to the community’s economic stability while promoting regenerative agricultural practices. By relying on native plants, the dyeing process supports biodiversity and encourages the cultivation of native flora, which has ecological benefits such as soil health improvement and erosion prevention.
The natural dyeing process also leads to minimal waste. The by-products from dye production can be composted, contributing to a closed-loop system that aligns with sustainable living principles. This system exemplifies how traditional practices can be adapted to modern sustainability goals, showcasing Abra as a model for other regions looking to balance cultural preservation with environmental responsibility.
Impacts and Community Involvement
The revival of natural dyeing in Abra has had significant socio-economic impacts. Through training programs led by Luis Agaid Jr. and supported by various government agencies, over 68 community members, including youth and elders, have been equipped with the skills needed to continue this tradition. These training sessions not only teach dye production but also emphasize the importance of preserving the cultural meanings behind the colors and designs. For example, indigo symbolizes the beauty of the sky and the creativity of the Itneg people. Red represents their heroes and their defense of their land, and yellow stands for friendship.
The resurgence of this practice has also led to increased demand for traditional woven products. Designers, both local and international, have taken an interest in Abra’s naturally dyed textiles. The main markets now include countries like Singapore, Austria, and Vietnam, with showcases in Marikina highlighting these unique, sustainable products.
Challenges and the Future
Despite its successes, the natural dyeing industry in Abra faces challenges. Climate change, for instance, affects the availability and quality of raw materials. Financial constraints, particularly during the COVID-19 pandemic, posed significant hurdles. However, the community’s resilience and the support from government and non-government organizations have helped them navigate these difficulties.
Looking ahead, there is a strong push for further research into different types of indigo, including Japanese and Indian varieties, to enhance the sustainability and diversity of natural dyes. The key to the industry’s longevity lies in community collaboration and continuous support for local artisans. As Luis Agaid Jr. aptly put it, “We need to love our culture and collaborate with other cultures for improvement, not imitation but true partnership.”
Abra’s journey in reviving its natural dyeing industry is a story of resilience, sustainability, and cultural pride. It stands as a testament to how traditional practices, when supported by modern initiatives and community efforts, can create a sustainable and regenerative future for generations to come.🌱
*You may contact them through their page Ta Itneg, Mr. Luis Agaid at +63 997 705 0250, or via email at [email protected].