Eng'r ToTz

Eng'r ToTz MARINE ENGINEERING KNOWLEDGE AND IDEAS
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30/08/2025

boiler testing

Case Studies of Machinery Problem Analyses & Solutionsby Chief Engineer Samson TormisA must-have guide for marine engine...
30/08/2025

Case Studies of Machinery Problem Analyses & Solutions
by Chief Engineer Samson Tormis

A must-have guide for marine engineers, students, and seafarers who want real-life case studies and practical problem-solving insights onboard! 📘⚓

✅ Covers common machinery problems
✅ Detailed troubleshooting & analysis
✅ Solutions from real ship experiences

📖 Grab your copy now!
📩 Message me directly for details.

From Inbox: Generator issue (MAN Diesel Engine D2840 LE 301 10 Cylinder, V-Type.Sir good day po..hihingi sana ako sayo n...
29/08/2025

From Inbox:
Generator issue (MAN Diesel Engine D2840 LE 301
10 Cylinder, V-Type.

Sir good day po..hihingi sana ako sayo ng advice at sa mga kabaro natin

Yung AE # 3 kasi dito nagba vibrate at nagpa fluctuate ang load at low load ( 15% )

Wala po pyrometer or any data na pwede makuha maliban sa RPM, Lub. oil pres. at Cooling water temperature po

Kakapalit palang po sir ng mga injectors.

Diesel po pala ang gamit sa generator na ito.
V-type 10 cylinder

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Salamat sa malinaw na details at pictures sir . Base sa notes at symptoms na binigay mo, ito ang analysis:

Situation Recap:

Engine model: MAN Diesel D2840 LE 301, 10-cyl, V-type.

Issue: AE3 nagva-vibrate at load fluctuates kapag nasa low load (≈15%) lalo na kapag tatlong gensets naka-parallel.

Pero:

AE3 ok kapag nasa 50–60% load (walang vibration, stable).

AE3 idle → no vibration.

AE3 + AE1 or AE2 (2 units in parallel, 22–25% load each) → stable.

Problema lumalabas lang kapag tatlong gensets sabay at mababa ang load sharing.

Injectors: bagong palit.

Fuel pump: na-renew na nung last drydock, ~2,500 running hours.

Possible Causes:

1. Low Load Instability (Hunting at 15% load)

Mga diesel gensets ay hindi ideal sa very low load. Nagiging unstable ang governor control, kaya nagiging “hunting” ang fuel rack → vibration at load fluctuation.

Kaya kapag tumataas na sa 50–60% load → nawawala, kasi mas stable ang governor response.

2. Governor / Load Sharing Control issue

Governor droop setting o load sharing module (isochronous load sharing unit, Woodward / DEIF / ComAp depende sa setup) maaaring hindi tugma sa AE3.

Kaya kapag 3 gensets na, lumalabas ang mismatch sa load sharing line.

3. Torsional Vibration / Coupling issue

Kung AE3 lang ang nagvi-vibrate at hindi AE1/2, baka may elastic coupling damper issue o engine mounting alignment.

Pero dahil nawawala siya kapag mataas ang load, mas malamang governor control kaysa mechanical.

4. Fuel Rack or Control Linkage

Kahit bago ang injectors, baka may “stickiness” sa fuel rack linkage → nagiging jerky ang fuel supply sa low load.

Recommended Actions:

Test AE3 alone at different loads

Already done (50–60% load ok). Try at 20–30% load kung stable siya mag-isa.

Kung stable → mas mataas ang chance na governor/load sharing control ang may problema.

Check Load Sharing Unit (LSU) / Governor settings

Inspect kung synchronized ang droop %, gain, stability ng AE3 governor compared to AE1 & AE2.

Kung electronic → check parameters sa control system.

Kung mechanical governor → check linkages, buffer screw, compensation spring.

Check Parallel Line / Load Sharing Signal Wiring

Loose connection o grounding sa parallel line signal (kadalasan 0–5V or 0–1A signal) pwedeng mag-cause ng hunting kapag naka-parallel lahat.

Mechanical Checks

Inspect engine mounts & flexible coupling damper ng AE3.

Kahit fuel-related ang main suspect, dapat ma-rule out din ito.

Practical Advice Onboard:

Subukan muna patakbuhin AE3 + AE1 (or AE2) at 20–30% load each ng matagal → observe kung lalabas pa rin vibration.

Kung stable sa 2 gensets pero nagloloko kapag 3 gensets, halos sure load sharing governor calibration problem.

Pwede niyo rin i-test by isolating LSU signal ng AE3 (run in droop mode only) at parallel → check kung mawawala hunting.

In short sir, AE3 is mechanically ok (new injectors, stable at high load).
Ang issue ay governor/load sharing tuning mismatch na lumalabas lang kapag 3 units sabay at low load.

Westfalia separators (like OSD, OTC, or older OS series) have a slightly different design from Mitsubishi Selfjector, bu...
29/08/2025

Westfalia separators (like OSD, OTC, or older OS series) have a slightly different design from Mitsubishi Selfjector, but the essential alarms and protections are quite similar, since all centrifugal oil separators are critical to engine safety and MARPOL compliance.

Here’s a detailed breakdown:

Typical Alarms on a Westfalia Centrifugal Oil Separator

1. Bowl Speed Low / Not Reached Rated Speed

Separator cannot separate oil properly if RPM is below setpoint.

2. Motor Overload / Overcurrent

Protects motor and drive system from mechanical overload or bearing failure.

3. High Vibration Alarm

From sludge imbalance, misassembled bowl, or damaged bearings.

Will often trip the separator to avoid catastrophic damage.

4. Sealing Water Failure

On water-sealed models, alarm if pressure/flow insufficient for bowl sealing.

5. Operating Water Pressure Low

Discharge mechanism won’t work if hydraulic water is missing.

6. Sludge Discharge Failure / Sludge Tank High Level

Bowl fails to open during cycle, or sludge tank nearly full.

7. High / Low Feed Oil Pressure

Protects against pump failure or blocked filters.

8. No Oil Feed Alarm

If oil is not entering the separator, separation is ineffective.

9. High Oil Temperature Alarm

Protects against overheating from the fuel oil heater or control fault.

10. Low Oil Temperature Alarm

If oil is too cold (viscosity too high), separation becomes inefficient.

11. High Water Content in Oil (with Water Transducer, ALCAP system)

Triggers when separated oil has more water than allowable.

12. Overflow Alarm

If clean oil tank overflows due to wrong separation or valve malfunction.

13. Leakage Alarm (Oil or Water in Separator Housing)

Protects against unnoticed internal leakage.

14. Bearing Temperature High (on some models)

Bearing thermocouples give alarm if overheating.

15. PLC / Control System Fault Alarm

If separator controller detects program or I/O fault.

Just like Mitsubishi, Westfalia separators are also tied into the Engine Control Room alarm system, but Westfalia units often use their own Separator Control Unit (SCU) with LED/alarm display.

Differences compared to Mitsubishi:

Westfalia ALCAP system automatically adjusts oil/water interface (no gravity disc). Hence “Water Content Alarm / Water Monitoring Unit alarm” is more important here.

Mitsubishi often uses “gravity disc type” or “selfjector system” whereas Westfalia relies on electronic water monitoring for precise separation.

As a 3rd Engineer, it’s very important to be familiar with the alarm system of the Mitsubishi Selfjector (SJ) since it d...
29/08/2025

As a 3rd Engineer, it’s very important to be familiar with the alarm system of the Mitsubishi Selfjector (SJ) since it directly affects fuel oil and l**e oil purification safety.

A Mitsubishi Selfjector is equipped with protective alarms and safety trips to prevent machinery damage and contamination of clean oil. While the exact alarms may vary slightly depending on the model (SJ15, SJ20, SJ30, etc.) and automation system, the standard alarms usually include the following:

Typical Alarms on a Mitsubishi Selfjector

1. High Sludge Tank Level Alarm

Prevents overflow if sludge discharge is not taking place or sludge tank is full.

2. Bowl Speed Low / Bowl Not Reaching Rated Speed

Indicates the centrifuge bowl is not at proper speed, separation will be ineffective.

3. Bowl Not Engaged / Clutch Slip

Alarm if clutch fails to transmit torque properly.

4. High/Low Oil Pressure Alarm (for operating / sealing oil system)

Protects bowl hydraulic operation (sealing / opening).

5. Sealing Water Pressure Low (for water-sealed models)

Prevents unseparated oil/water mixing due to improper sealing.

6. Operating Water Failure

If water required for sludge discharge cycle is insufficient or pressure drops.

7. Sludge Discharge Failure Alarm

If the bowl fails to open/close properly after discharge cycle.

8. High Temperature Alarm (feed oil, separating temperature)

Ensures oil does not overheat, which can damage purifier internals.

9. Low Temperature Alarm (feed oil, heater outlet)

Ensures oil is at correct viscosity for proper separation.

10. High Vibration Alarm

Protects against imbalance (sludge accumulation, damaged bowl, poor assembly).

11. No Oil Feed Alarm / Low Flow Alarm

If feed pump not delivering oil to separator.

12. Overflow / Leakage Alarm

Clean oil tank overflow or purifier leakage detected.

13. Motor Overload / High Current Alarm

Trips purifier to protect motor and clutch.

14. High Water Content in Oil (optional, with water transducer)

Protects against excessive water carry-over into clean oil.

On most ships, these alarms are also integrated into the Engine Control Room (ECR) alarm system, so the operator gets notified immediately if separation is not safe or effective.

⚠️ Note:

Some Mitsubishi Selfjector models are “gravity disc type” while newer ones are “ALCAP (automated water monitoring)” type. The ALCAP system usually has additional water content monitoring alarms/trips.

The actual list should always be verified with the Operation Manual & PMS alarm list for your specific model on board.




28/08/2025

yanmar generator. kung bakit palaging mg high level ang fuel oil leak,nagbunot lang ng fuel oil injector tapos ngaun lag...
28/08/2025

yanmar generator. kung bakit palaging mg high level ang fuel oil leak,nagbunot lang ng fuel oil injector tapos ngaun lagi nlang nag alarm ng fuel oil leak?

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Sige sir, try natin i-analyze step by step kung bakit after niyo magbunut ng fuel injector sa Yanmar generator bigla na ngayon laging nag-aalarm ng fuel oil leakage (high level alarm).

Possible Causes:

1. Injector sealing problem

Baka hindi na-seal ng maayos ang copper washer / sealing washer sa injector tip kaya may fuel blow-by papunta sa cylinder head leak off space → magdudulot ng leak alarm.

Kung reused na yung washer, madalas hindi na siya tight seal.

2. Fuel return / leak-off line restriction

Sa Yanmar, lahat ng fuel leakage sa injector at pump bumabalik sa leak off tank / drain line.

Kung may bara, kinked pipe, o partially closed valve, iipon ang fuel sa leak off system kaya tataas agad level at alarm.

3. Wrong installation ng injector

Kung hindi tama ang torque (masyadong mahigpit o maluwag) nagkakaroon ng gap → fuel leak.

Check din kung naka-align ng tama yung injector fuel return fitting.

4. Fuel pump plunger & barrel leakage

Baka sakto lang sa timing ng injector replacement, kaya lumala ang leak ng mismong pump plunger.

Kapag worn-out na, masyado nang malaki ang leakage papunta sa leak off line.

5. Defective injector

Baka yung pinalitan na injector ay hindi maayos ang internal sealing → sobra ang leak sa leak off line.

Recommended Checks:

Re-check kung tama ang pagkakabalik ng injector (washer condition, torque, sealing).
I-check ang leak off piping kung may bara o restriction.
Observe alin sa fuel pump / injector ang may sobrang balik (madalas mainit ang fuel return kung heavy leakage).
Kung tuloy-tuloy pa rin, isolate per injector (tanggalin leak line connection isa-isa) para makita kung aling cylinder ang may abnormal na balik.

Madalas , kung bigla siyang naging lagi high level alarm after injector removal, unang suspect talaga ay washer/sealing issue o hindi perfect ang seating ng injector.

From inbox:sir tots may xperience na po ba kyo sa air gas compressor pra sa SCR?ang oil kc nagiging spalto  na lagi nag ...
28/08/2025

From inbox:
sir tots may xperience na po ba kyo sa air gas compressor pra sa SCR?ang oil kc nagiging spalto na lagi nag overheat limang beses na sya ganito sir tots, ung langis lumalabas na sa air filter nya at nag overheat naprang spalto na po, ginagamit nmin pag gamitin na ang scr ano po ang cause nito nsa 5 times na sya nag overheat

✅✅✅✅✅

Oo sir, may idea ako sa kaso na ganyan. Base sa kwento mo, yung air/gas compressor para sa SCR (Selective Catalytic Reduction) ay nag-ooverheat at yung langis nagiging parang spalto (carbonized / burnt oil) — ibig sabihin sobrang taas ng discharge temperature niya kaya naglaluto yung oil sa loob ng compressor.

Mga common causes kung bakit nagiging ganito:

1. Cooling System Problem

Kung water-cooled ang compressor, baka barado / mababa ang flow ng seawater o FW sa jacket → nagdudulot ng mataas na cylinder temp.

Kung air-cooled, baka marumi yung cooler fins o barado na ang oil cooler.

Check mo rin kung may airlock o insufficient cooling water pressure.

2. Lubrication Issue

Kapag mali ang grade ng compressor oil, mabilis siyang mag-carbonize lalo na kung hindi synthetic type.

Kapag hindi na-circulate nang maayos ang oil (barado oil filter / oil pump issue), mas mabilis siyang uminit.

3. Overloading / Continuous Duty Beyond Design

Usually yung SCR compressor pang-supply lang ng combustion air o urea atomizing air — hindi siya designed for long continuous heavy duty. Kapag mataas ang demand ng SCR at tuloy-tuloy ang andar, nag-ooverheat.

4. Valve Issue

Kung may leak sa suction o discharge valve, tataas ang discharge temp kasi nagbabalik-balik ang hangin.

Resulta nito: sobrang init sa cylinder → oil coking.

5. Wrong Operation / Setpoint

Check mo rin kung tama ang cut-in/cut-out pressure setting. Kapag sobrang taas, lagi siyang strained.

Countermeasures na pwede mong gawin onboard:

Linisin at i-check ang cooling system (cooler, FW/SW strainer, air cooler fins).

Gamitin ang recommended oil (synthetic compressor oil para sa high-temp / air gas compressor for SCR).

Inspect oil separator element (baka barado kaya tumutulo oil sa filter).

Check suction/discharge valves, piston rings at cylinder liner kung may leak o scoring.

Kung kaya, i-monitor discharge temp trend at siguraduhin hindi lumalagpas sa design (usually 180–200°C max depende sa compressor).

Sir , follow-up ko lang:
Anong model ng compressor gamit niyo para sa SCR? (Tanabe, Sauer, Hamworthy, o iba?) para mas mabigyaan natin ng detilyadong sulosyon.

Handling Electro-mechanical Governor of Marine Engine The speed of the marine engine is controlled by an instrument know...
28/08/2025

Handling Electro-mechanical Governor of Marine Engine

The speed of the marine engine is controlled by an instrument known as governor, which can be of – hydraulic, electro-hydraulic or electronic governor type.

The most famous types of governor used for both main engine and generator engine is the electro-hydraulic type marine governor. It’s because of this little instrument that the engine speed can be smoothly controlled from a remote space (bridge or engine control room).

The different components of a governor allows for a steady state speed control, along with achieving the required variation in the load.

Following are the important parts of the governor:

– Synchronizer k**b: This k**b is used for controlling the speed of the engine with a single unit (Main engine) and controlling the load for engines with multiple unit (generator)

– Speed droop k**b: The speed droop k**b helps in creating the stability and also divides the load equally among multiple generator engines running parallel

– Load limit k**b: This k**b controls and limits the load on the engine by restricting the travel of the governor shaft, which is connected to the fuel shaft of the engine

– Synchronizer indication k**b: This k**b does not have any control function and it is used to show how many turns the synchronizer k**b has rotated

When handling the electro-hydraulic governor of a marine engine, following things to be kept in mind:

1. Ensure the governor travel/ output shaft connected to the fuel shaft is provided with sufficient over-travel at each end of the terminal shaft. Failing to do so will either prevent it from giving more fuel at maximum fuel position or will shut down the prime mover when the shaft is in minimum fuel position

2. Ensure the oil level and quality is correctly maintained. The viscosity of the oil inside the governor at normal operating temperature should be in the range of 20 cst to 65cst. The recommended continuous operating temperature of the governor oil is 60 Deg C to 93 deg C.

3. Never manually force the prime mover fuel linkage to increase the fuel without the first turning the load limit k**b to maximum position of “10” else it will damage the governor’s internal parts

4. Ensure to apply as little compensation (through compensation needle provided for controlling the speed/load variation) as possible as higher compensation setting will lead to more fluctuation in speed with load change

5. For generator system running in parallel, set the speed droop at sufficiently high setting to avoid interchange of load between units while running

6. Synchronizer k**b can be used to adjust the system frequency and to distribute the load between the units

7. Ensure to keep a check on the synchromotor for insulation and proper operation provided on the top of the governor, which transfers the remote signal to the governor for increasing or decreasing the engine speed

8. Ensure to check the tightness of the foundation bolts of the governor along with the tightness of the cable for synchro-motor. The governor is a high speed rotating instrument and excessive vibration with loose foundation will damage the interior parts

9. While testing the governor after overhauling, ensure all linkages are proper and oil level is upto the mark. Hold the output shaft with a serration wrench (monkey spanner) to manually control the speed in case the governor malfunctions

10. Never attempt to adjust the settings or the internal parts of the governor until you are thoroughly familiar with the proper procedure

It is very important that ship engineers are familiar with the planned maintenance of the governor. In no circumstances an engine with faulty governor should be operated as it may result in over-speeding of the engine and fatal accidents. Over to you..

From Inbox:Sir good day po. Pwede po ba mag tanong??. Dapat po ba laging naka engage ang lambda control kahit normal run...
27/08/2025

From Inbox:
Sir good day po. Pwede po ba mag tanong??. Dapat po ba laging naka engage ang lambda control kahit normal running na ang engine?? Salamat po.

✅✅✅✅✅✅✅✅
Good day sir

Magandang tanong po iyan.

Lambda control (tinatawag din na exhaust gas oxygen trim o lambda regulator) ay system na ginagamit para i-maintain ang air–fuel ratio ng makina sa optimum condition.

Purpose niya:

Automatic adjustment ng fuel rack o governor para tumugma ang fuel quantity sa scavenging air pressure / turbocharger air supply.

Para maiwasan ang over-fueling (black smoke, mataas na exhaust temp, knocking) o under-fueling (loss of power, mataas na scav air pressure pero mababa power).

Nakakatulong din sa emission compliance (IMO Tier II/III).

Kung dapat ba laging naka-engage:

Oo, sa normal running ng generator engine, dapat naka-engage ang lambda control.

Dahil siya ang nagbabantay ng real-time air–fuel ratio at gumagawa ng fine adjustments.

Kapag naka-bypass/off, engine governor lang ang basehan ng fuel injection at hindi na iko-compensate ang pagbabago sa load, ambient condition, o turbo performance.

Pwede mag-resulta sa imbalance: mataas na exhaust temp, cylinder overload, o usok.

Kailan lang pwedeng i-bypass/off:

Kapag troubleshooting/maintenance (halimbawa, suspect ka na mali reading ng lambda sensor, o may defect ang actuator).

Kapag may fail condition (system alarm/fault) at kailangan patakbuhin ang makina sa manual fuel regulation.

Rule of thumb:
Kung walang alarm at nasa normal condition ang makina, keep lambda control engaged. Kapag may problema sa sensor o control unit, saka lang siya i-bypass habang ini-investigate.




From inbox:hellow po sir. isa po ako sa follower mo sir. pa hingi po sana ng opinion sir about sa compressor ko . Tanabe...
27/08/2025

From inbox:

hellow po sir. isa po ako sa follower mo sir. pa hingi po sana ng opinion sir about sa compressor ko . Tanabe VLHH-64A model po sir. away po kase mag karga sa air reservior tk. napalitan kuna lahat po ng Air valve sa 1st and 2nd stage sir saka suction saka delivery v/v sir . ayaw po talaga sir. sana po matulongan nyo po ako sir. maraming salamat po sir.

Ito po yung mga parameters nya sir. Mataas ampere saka pressure ng 1st stage sir. Maraming salamat po godbless

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Salamat sa pics, sir..
Base sa sintomas mo — mataas ang ampera at tumataas ang 1st-stage pressure pero ayaw mag-charge sa air receiver — malaki ang chance na may bara o “dead end” sa pagitan ng 1st-stage discharge at 2nd-stage suction/discharge. Ibig sabihin, todo trabaho ang 1st stage (kaya mataas amps), pero hindi nakaka-abot ang hangin sa bote.

Below is a quick, step-by-step check na puwede mong gawin sa Tanabe VLHH-64A (general twin-stage layout):

Fast checks (in order)

1. Basahin muna ang gauges habang umaandar

Normal: 1st stage ≈ low/medium bar (interstage), 2nd stage umaakyat hanggang cut-out (hal. ~25–30 bar depende sa set-point).

Kung 1st stage > normal (hal. tumatakbo pataas) at 2nd stage halos zero → may restriction papuntang 2nd stage.

2. Crack test sa interstage drain/relief

Dahan-dahang i-crack ang interstage drain/relief habang tumatakbo.

Malakas at tuloy-tuloy na bugso = nagpu-pump ang 1st stage pero hindi makapasok sa 2nd stage → isipin: baradong intercooler/line o mali/closed ang 2nd-stage suction valve/unloader.

Mahina = may problema mismo sa 1st stage (hindi ito ang iyong sintomas ngayon).

3. Intercooler/line blockage check

Hawakan/thermal check: Mainit na mainit ang outlet ng 1st stage pero malamig/di-pantay ang intercooler outlet → posibleng barado ng oil/scale/condensate.

Siguruhing bukas ang cooling water sa intercooler; barado/closed water side → sobra ang interstage temp at puwedeng mag-trip.

4. 2nd-stage suction valve & unloader

Dahil pinalitan mo na ang valves, double-check orientation (madalas na mali: baligtad ang plate/stopper, o maling kapal ng gasket kaya hindi nagli-lift).

I-check kung nakabukas (stuck open) o nakasara (stuck closed) ang unloader ng 2nd stage:

Stuck CLOSED / hindi nagbubukas ang suction → tataas ang interstage pressure (exactly your symptom).

Stuck OPEN → iikot lang ang hangin; madalas mababa ang interstage pressure at hindi tataas ang 2nd stage.

Test: tanggalin ang pilot air/supply, i-manual operate ang unloader plunger (dapat smooth at bumabalik). Linisin ang carbon/oil gum.

5. Bypass test (pang-diagnose lang, short duration)

Kung ligtas at may fittings kayo: temporaryong i-bypass ang intercooler (1st-stage discharge diretso sa 2nd-stage suction) for a few seconds with very close watch sa temp/pressure.

Kung biglang umakyat ang 2nd-stage pressure → barado ang intercooler/line.

Kung wala pa rin → balik tumingin sa 2nd-stage suction valve/unloader.

6. 2nd-stage discharge path

Delivery check valve (NRV) papuntang bottle maaaring stuck closed.

Crack a union bago ang NRV: kung may pressure at bugso doon pero walang pressure sa bottle side, NRV/line to bottle ang sira.

Pakinggan din ang safety valve sa aftercooler/2nd discharge: baka leak o laging naka-lift.

7. Rings/packing

Kung sirang 2nd-stage rings, makikita mo mataas ang interstage pressure, mababa ang 2nd-stage pressure, at mas mainit ang interstage. May oil mist sa vent/drain. Compression test/leak-down sa 2nd stage kung kinakailangan.

8. Simple but common

Suction filter/strainer ng 2nd stage (kung hiwalay) barado.

Auto drain ng interstage nakabukas (ito kadalasan magpapababa ng interstage, pero i-verify pa rin).

Direction of rotation (lalo na after electrical work).

Aftercooler barado/NRV after aftercooler stuck.

Ano ang pinaka-likely sa case mo

Dahil mataas ang 1st-stage pressure at amps, top suspects ko:

1. Baradong intercooler/interstage line (oil sludge/scale/condensate).

2. Maling assemble o stuck CLOSED na 2nd-stage suction valve/unloader.

3. NRV to bottle stuck closed (kung umaakyat ang 2nd-stage gauge pero walang pasok sa bottle).

Quick action plan

Record: amps, 1st-stage P, 2nd-stage P, intercooler outlet temp.

Gawin ang interstage crack test.

Inspect/clean intercooler (air side); back-flush kung kaya.

Pull and re-inspect 2nd-stage suction valve (orientation, lift, spring/stopper) at function test ng unloader.

Test/clean delivery NRV papuntang bottle.

Safety: lock-out/tag-out, relieve pressure bago magbukas ng lines/valves, i-cool down muna, at mag-PPE.

Kung maari, paki-update mo ako ng tatlong reading habang tumatakbo:
(a) 1st-stage pressure, (b) 2nd-stage pressure, (c) discharge temp o kahit feel ng init sa intercooler inlet/outlet. Doon tayo magdi-decide kung alin ang uunahin baklasin.

27/08/2025

what type of engine??

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