25/02/2025
■ OLD ISTANBUL RAMADANS AND MY MEMOIRS, 1890s
[Ahmed Semih Bey recounts his memories of old Istanbul Ramadans in the 1890s and 1900s]:
"Since Istanbul was the center of the caliphate, great attention and care were given to Islamic principles and etiquette. Especially during the sacred month of Ramadan, mosques, minarets, oil lamps, and illuminations were of great importance. The practice of illuminating the mosques and minarets on Istanbul’s seven hills was first introduced during the reign of Sultan Selim II. During the reign of Sultan Murad III, this practice was extended to the nights of Miraj and Barat. Sultan Ahmed I ensured that the minarets were adorned every night of Ramadan, and during his time, mahyas (illuminated messages) were invented, and chandeliers were hung inside mosques. Sultan Abdulhamid II, who placed great importance on oil lamps and mahya, used to say, "I must show respect for and oversee the traditions of my ancestors."
Apart from these, the cannon batteries in Tophane and Sarayburnu would light up the surroundings with flames. It had also become a tradition for the empty sides of ships to be illuminated, for colorful lanterns to be hung from their masts, and for fireworks to be set off. The arrival of the Sultan by boat from Sarayburnu to Tophane and the procession of the Night of Power were like a scene from a divine realm.
THE SWEET HUSTLE AND BUSTLE IN HOMES
During the three holy months, especially in Ramadan, three main matters would preoccupy the country, particularly in Istanbul: worship, illumination, and entertainment. All three would please the people. Government offices would operate in shifts and would close early during Ramadan. There would be ample time for people to go to mosques before iftar (fast-breaking evening meal), perform prayers, listen to Qur'an recitations and sermons, shop at stalls, and enjoy festivities after breaking their fast.
As soon as the three months began, households would undergo thorough preparation. I still remember my father’s cousin, Mrs. Tevhide, sitting in a rocking wicker chair, giving orders to her loyal servant. She would have jam jars and syrup bottles brought to her side, instruct the preparation of charcoal braziers, have ladles washed in boiling water, have pre-cut and cleaned fruits arranged on trays, inspect rose petals one by one with her own hands, have sugar weighed, measure the amount of water to be added to the pots, and personally supervise the boiling of sweets, jams, and syrups for hours and even days.
An elderly woman named Mrs. Ayşe and a younger woman named Mrs. Mehbur would prepare such exquisite stuffed vegetables that those who tasted them would be enchanted. The delicious meals prepared in such homes could not even be found in grand mansions, as they were slow-cooked for hours over charcoal.
The rice puddings in these homes were also among the finest. A light scent of smoke would add a unique flavor to the palate. There were various kinds of güllaç desserts—some with cream, some with hazelnuts, some with more milk, some with less. As this dessert had many enthusiasts, three or four large platters would always be kept ready on grand dining tables.
TESPIHÇI GAFFAR'S AJAM PILAF
The amber-scented Ajam pilaf, prepared by Tespihçi Gaffar after hours of effort, could not even be found in palaces. How could one describe it? It was a delicacy as if it had descended from the heavens—a refreshing delight for the taste buds. After preparing his pilaf, the late Gaffar would say, "This blessed pilaf is not meant to be eaten hastily! It should be savored slowly, enjoyed deeply. Well done to me, bon appétit to you!" May God have mercy on him.
Every home’s pantry and storage rooms would come alive with activity. First, the entire pantry would be scrubbed clean with soapy cloths. Bottles, jars, dishes, and food cabinets would be inspected. Once the cleaning was done, the shelves would gradually be stocked in preparation for Ramadan. This was not only a tradition among the wealthy but also among middle-class and even modest households. The location of the large pantries, whether in the harem (women’s quarters) or the selamlık (men’s quarters), followed no strict rule.
Women had their own responsibilities: cleaning tableware, tablecloths, napkins, and towels, making repairs, and ensuring nothing was missing. These tasks were among the most important household duties during the three holy months, and strangely, they seemed to bring energy and joy to those who carried them out. Another major chore was cleaning prayer rugs and carpets—a challenging task that involved washing them with vinegar, soap, or sulfuric acid, then treating them with mothballs in preparation for Ramadan.
THE PEACE THAT ENVELOPED EVERYTHING
The three holy months would immerse Istanbul in a kind of spiritual joy. From homes to mansions and palaces, from noblemen to servants, everyone was occupied with Ramadan preparations. Everyone, rich or poor, would prepare their provisions according to their means, stock their pantries, and arrange their sweets, jams, and pickles. Nuts and dried fruits were also indispensable, creating another layer of preparation. In short, the preparations to gather the food that would break the fast were shaking Istanbul to its core.
The poor, knowing they would benefit from these preparations, rejoiced. Because it was permissible for anyone to attend the iftar of any household. Especially, opening iftar tables for the poor had become a tradition for mansions. Ramadan was seen as a time for charity and benevolence, and the wealthy sincerely sought to assist those in need.
For reasons I cannot fully explain, Ramadan had a profound impact on the moral fabric of society. It instilled tranquility and obedience in people. Special care was taken not to hurt others, to avoid anger, to refrain from speaking ill, and to abstain from all forms of wrongdoing. Those who neglected this moral discipline were condemned.
THE SIGHTING OF THE CRESCENT AND THE DECLERATION OF RAMADAN
When the crescent moon of Ramadan was sighted, the news would be taken to the gate of the Shaykh al-Islam, who would confirm that the moon was faintly visible. The matter was then presented to the Caliph of the Earth, meaning the Sultan, and Ramadan was officially declared. Mosques would light their lamps and mahyas (illuminated messages), while night watchmen beat their drums. The Tarawih prayer would begin that very night, and after the prayer, people would go about as they pleased.
Tea houses in Şehzadebaşı, open shops, shadow plays, Karagöz performances, and storytellers would be filled with people. Bathhouses would remain open. The streets would be crowded with people strolling, laughing, and enjoying themselves until the time for suhur. During the daytime, they would engage in worship and devotion. Government offices would close early. Eating in public was prohibited, and even those who were not fasting would refrain from eating and drinking in front of those who were. Law enforcement would apprehend those who acted disrespectfully. Even Christian officials working at the Sublime Porte would honor this rule, drinking water in secret if they felt thirsty.
Many people carried copies of the Qur'an in their pockets and went to mosques to recite it. The handwritten copies of the Qur'an were truly exquisite. Another striking feature of Ramadan was the abundance that seemed to spread everywhere. Rich or poor, everyone would be full and cheerful.
IFTARS GIVEN TO THE PUBLIC IN PALACES, MANSIONS, AND DERVISH LODGES
Iftar dinners in the palaces of the princes were quite special. However, the palaces of the princesses would fill with guests. To carry the meals from the private kitchens of the palaces to their places—I am telling it as it was—there were 5,000 waiters. Sultan Abdulhamid would personally attend to the thousands of guests who came to his palace for iftar, and he would respect and consider it a religious duty for people to visit each other and break the fast together. Therefore, during Ramadan, everyone without exception was happy, cheerful, and free. Former and current grand viziers, former and current ministers, marshals, viziers, chief judges, in short, the poor and the rich would fill the mosques and bazaars, listen to Qur'an recitations in mosques, and pray side by side.
On the Night of Power, the Sultan would go to Tophane Mosque by boat. His imperial barge was rowed by sixteen oarsmen. In the palace, he would attend special religious lessons and sermons. During Ramadan, the palaces of Sultan Abdulhamid's daughters would be particularly lively. Both in the harem (women’s quarters) and the selamlık (men’s quarters), tables were set up continuously, and a large room next to the kitchens was used to serve iftar meals to the poor, along with "tooth rent" gifts. The Sultan’s beloved eldest daughter, Zekiye Sultan, hosted particularly special gatherings at her seaside palace. Her husband, Damat Nureddin Pasha, was widely admired, and his presence added a special charm to the atmosphere. These gatherings were large, joyous, and warm. The amount Zekiye Sultan distributed in gifts and monetary donations during Ramadan often exceeded 2,500 gold coins. Many of us have witnessed the Sultan, after receiving the expense reports from her steward Hacı Akif Pasha after every holiday, express gratitude, saying, "Praise be to God."
During summer Ramadans, the Bosphorus would take on an even more vibrant charm, as many statesmen hosted iftar gatherings at their waterside mansions, drawing numerous guests. Among the Sufi lodges, the Mevlevi tekkes in Bahariye, Topkapı, and Galata were particularly renowned for their iftars, which featured exquisite meals. These lodges had their own specialized cooks, as well as disciples and adherents who assisted in meal preparation. The wealthy and the poor, the noble and the humble, would all gather at the same table and eat as honored guests of the lodge's master. These Sufi lodges were well-funded, with their own dedicated endowments and allocations. Their ceremonies were truly divine scenes. It would be so crowded, yet not a sound would be heard. Except for the ney (a traditional reed flute), kudüm drum, and naats (poetry in praise of the Prophet), no other sound would be heard, and in the semahane (whirling dervish hall), a faint rustling, like the sea hitting the shore, would reach the ears. During Ramadan, other lodges were also open every night, all hosting iftars, but the Mevlevi lodges were the foremost.
GRAND VIZIER FUAD PASHA'S STAY AT MY GRANDFATHER'S HOUSE AFTER HIS MANSION BURNED DOWN
When the mansion across from Şehzade Mosque burned down, Grand Vizier and Serasker Fuad Pasha at my grandfather's house for a while. It was the month of Ramadan, and during this time, Fuad Pasha's guests would visit our house. Every evening, twelve tables were set for the iftar guests, and ten trays of food were also given to the poor. Since Fuad Pasha's head chef, his assistants, and apprentices worked alongside our cooks, hosting and serving such a large crowd was not difficult.
According to the customs of the time, dates, olives, and water were served to guests on trays. After breaking the fast, the evening prayer would be performed. Then, guests would move to the tables, which was considered healthier. Between the prayer and the meal, Fuad Pasha would sometimes visit the poor and give them gifts. Out of curiosity, he would also check to ensure the poor's meals were no different from his own.
During those blessed days, the meals served at the tables were roughly as follows: several soups, two or three types of meat, kebabs, köfte, stuffed turkey or chicken, stuffed vegetables, stuffed grape leaves, various pastries, baklava, milk desserts, and revani, among others. Each dish had its own specialized chef.
In those days, not only the chefs but also the pantry keepers were skilled. They would become especially active for Ramadan, boiling jams, making preserves, and preparing sujuks, pastrami, and cheese in tins. In short, they competed to ensure they did not disappoint their masters. Our veteran pantry keeper, Dimitri, would spend an hour making lemonade. But those who drank his lemonade— as the late Necib Bey would say—would be enchanted. The pumpkin desserts made by my uncle's chef, Izzet Ağa, were so exquisite that, in common terms, they would make you lick your fingers. Izzet Ağa's Baghdad dessert was also famous for its delicacy. The Baghdad dessert was made by cooking apricots filled with cream in boiling milk until they turned pink. Bon appétit to those who eat it, and love to those who made it!
The guests of Mustafa Pasha of Izmir, the author of the unparalleled and excellent history book Netayicü'l Vukuat, would talk for days about what they ate and drank, making listeners envious. The guests who visited Mustafa Pasha's mansion in Vaniköy would say, "Which tooth would tire from such exquisite meals that it would need a tooth rent?" They had refined tastes. I once knew a gourmet. This gentleman's iftars were so perfect that Sultan Abdulhamid would sometimes tell his pantry keeper, "Let the chefs go there and learn," if he didn't like a meal. However, Sultan Abdulhamid was not at all a food enthusiast.
HACI KÂMİ EFENDI'S IFTARS
For some reason, Beyazıt Mosque was always more crowded than others. Those who were invited to iftar in the mansions and homes of the true Istanbul quarters would leave the house five or ten minutes before the call to prayer in the mosque, prayer beads in hand, reciting prayers or verses as they walked or rode in their carriages.
The famous and truly beautiful Arabian horse belonging to Hacı Kâmi Efendi, the Gate Steward of the Two Holy Sanctuaries (Harameyn-i Şerifeyn), would almost lower its back as if to greet its master the moment he approached the stirrup. The moment Hacı Kâmi Efendi leaped onto his horse, his display, as if he were a youthful and vigorous cavalier, greatly delighted the spectators. At that time, he was over seventy.
Hacı Kâmi Efendi’s iftar feasts were so exquisite and delicious that they were unmatched in all of Istanbul. He lived in his mansion in Fatih year-round and performed both his morning and evening prayers at the Fatih Mosque. He woke up early and went to bed early. He slept on a sitting mat in a large hall, never using a quilt. His cheeks were rosy, his beard snow-white, his skin fair, his muscles firm, his body agile, his teeth intact and beautiful. He was always cheerful.
He was one of my grandfather’s closest friends and showed our family great affection and kindness. He insisted that we spend the iftar of Laylat al-Qadr (Night of Power) at his mansion and waited for us. We, too, looked forward to that blessed night. After breaking our fast and performing the evening prayer with him at the mosque, we would go to his mansion and indulge in his wonderful dishes.
The tableware, trays, towels, napkins, embroidered hand cloths, porcelain plates, coral-handled spoons, delightful appetizers, crystal pitchers, and glasses—everything matched perfectly in color and elegance, delighting not only the eyes but also the soul.
When we left for Beirut in 1895, we had left him in good health. When we returned in 1902, Hacı Kâmi Efendi had taken his last breath. May God have mercy on all of them. The late Hacı Kâmi Efendi was truly a blessed, benevolent, and loyal man. May his place be in paradise.
SUHURS
Ramadan wasn’t just about iftar; there was also suhur (pre-dawn meal). These pre-dawn meals had no formal structure. Light meals were eaten. Cold cuts, vegetables, pasta, and definitely hoşaf (compote). People would enjoy it, saying 'hoş âb' (pleasant water). One of the beauties of summer Ramadans was that Taraweeh prayers in palaces and mansions were performed on prayer rugs, spread on the grass or in gardens. Iftars were also held in these gardens. It was customary to wait for the watchman's drum before returning home. When the watchmen sang a couple of tunes and recited couplets, they would offer quite amusing jokes and hints, pleasing the listeners. Street vendors selling sesame simits and cheddar cheese in narrow and wide boxes would spread throughout the streets at night, selling simits. People would scramble for them. Those crispy simits were absolutely exquisite. Among them was a man who sold halva, revani, and macun (sweet, colored paste) from trays on his head, and he had an exquisite voice. He would almost make Bebek Bay echo with his voice. It was well-known among the residents of Bebek that Ahmed Cevdet Pasha would stop his writing and open his window to listen to this man as he passed in front of his mansion. Another famous aspect of Bebek was the call to prayer rising from the seaside mansion of Valide (Mother) Pasha, mother of Egypt's Khedive (Viceroy) Abbas Hilmi Pasha. The finest hafizs from Egypt and Istanbul would compete to recite the call to prayer and salawat, mesmerizing all who heard them. Another attractive feature of Valide Pasha's iftars was feeding hundreds of the poor and the impact of tooth rent (gift or money). They would eat their fill and receive generous amounts of tooth rent..
SISTER YADIGAR'S CHIOS PIE
One of our relatives, Mrs. Âdile, who lived in her mansion in Çukurçeşme, was someone we would always visit and greet by kissing her hand, with a sense of duty. Later, we never neglected her son, Talat Bey, either. We especially loved and respected our dear aunt, Mrs. Neyyir. Their iftars during the blessed month of Ramadan were always exceptional. This was because the meals were prepared by Sister Yadigâr, who not only cooked but also personally decorated the plates and served them. Sister Yadigâr was a dark-skinned, extremely cute woman, almost beautiful, with a constant smile on her face. Since Mrs. Âdile was from Chios Island, she taught her Yadigâr to make Chios pies and sweets, which, as my late father used to say, were so extraordinary that they would make you lick your fingers. The Chios pies were so famous that even the late Gazi Osman Pasha would send messages with entreaties, requesting one, often including a two-and-a-half-lira gold coin and a note for its delivery. As we tasted the food she prepared, poor Sister Yadigâr would laugh so much.. May God have mercy on her; who knows where she rests now..
During Ramadans, a general sense of sincerity would envelop the atmosphere. Acts of brotherly love, socializing, and companionship would take place, and friendships would be shown. Even Christians would act with care during Ramadan, respecting those fasting.
GREAT DISCOUNTS IN THE MARKETPLACE
During Ramadan, eyes would shine, and faces would smile. No one would run out of money. Salaries would increase. Debts would be settled, and a sense of relief would prevail. Markets and trade would lower the prices of food in an astonishing manner. Municipal officials carefully inspected merchants’ scales, look at whether the goods were fresh or spoiled, and punish those found guilty of misdeeds. Shops, bakeries, greengrocers, and street vendors were all subject to scrutiny and couldn’t escape from it. Especially the meat market in Fatih was not only the cheapest in Istanbul but perhaps in the whole world. Another control here was the fear of God. Butchers would never cheat, and they would sell only the freshest goods. They had plenty of customers.
THE IMPRESSIVE BEAUTY OF THE BOSPHORUS
When its value and uniqueness in the world were known, the Bosphorus would experience a different state. It would also make others experience it. As the great Nedim said, 'Before it, there were many melodies and poems.' It was like a delicate beloved. People cherished it, treating it with utmost care, fearing even the slightest harm. The seaside mansions that adorned its bosom would almost lean towards the ground, as if not to cover its beauty, not to burden it, and to avoid being an instrument to any ugliness. How beautiful the Bosphorus was, oh Lord! How charming were the seaside mansions on its shores! There was no equal in the world. And for this reason, it had many foreign and local lovers. They were truly in awe of it, deeply enamored.. I repeat... They would cherish it with utmost care..
IFTARS OF THE EGYPTIAN KHEDIVE AND ELMASIYE DESSERT
The most magnificent iftar I ever witnessed on the Bosphorus was at the seaside palace of Ismail Pasha, the Egyptian Khedive (Viceroy), in Emirgan. Cars drove through the park. The garden and park were illuminated with gas lamps and decorated with lanterns. The dish I looked forward to the most during these meals was the dessert called Elmasiye. At Ismail Pasha’s palace, the Elmasiye was not served like the one we know, but was instead given inside ice. However, I could never scoop the Elmasiye with a spoon. It would simply slip away. Yes, it was difficult to serve. But it was certainly a dish from the heavens. Whenever my grandmother served less food on my plate, Lady Çeşmiafet Kadınefendi would say, 'No harm, let him eat his fill. We’ll have him perform a Taraweeh prayer, and he’ll become as light as a bird,' and she would especially give me a higher rank among the children. I was the only child permitted to play with the younger members of the royal family. I can say that during Ramadan, the poor of Emirgan, İstinye, and Boyacıköy did not cook at home. They would all break their fast, eat, pray, and receive tooth rent (gift or money) at the places reserved for them at Ismail Pasha's seaside mansion. Many even had provisions sent to their homes.
THE FIFTEENTH OF RAMADAN
The fifteenth of Ramadan would stir the entire city of Istanbul. On that blessed day, the public would be allowed to visit the Sacred Beard (of the Prophet) at Hırka-i Şerif Mosque. Thousands of people, men and women, would pour out of their homes into the streets, almost surrounding Topkapı Palace and Hırka-i Şerif Mosque. The Sultan would come to Topkapı Palace, while the Kadınefendis and Sultan Ladies would go to Hırka-i Şerif Mosque.
Sultan Abdulhamid Khan used to come by land at first but later by sea from Yıldız Palace. He would pray at Hagia Sophia. In the afternoon, he would go to the Noble Chamber of the Sacred Mantle (of the Prophet), and, with the people included in the protocol standing behind him with their hands clasped, he would perform the visit to the Sacred Mantle. While this religious ceremony continued, the Sultan would stand for hours, carrying out this beautiful service with great devotion. He never seemed to tire and always appeared cheerful. After the visit, if the weather was pleasant, he would stroll through the palace gardens and pavilions; if it was unfavorable, he would sit in his chamber and wait for the evening. The land route leading to and from Istanbul, passing through Dolmabahçe, Fındıklı, Tophane, Galata Bridge, and the Sublime Porte, took on a majestic aura. Soldiers lined the route, and people gathered at their windows, on walls, and in trees, greeting the Sultan with cries of 'Long live my Sultan!' as he passed before them, also applauding.
Sultan Abdulhamid held the visits to the Sacred Mantle in deep reverence and regarded them as highly important. When I was first honored with attending this ceremony, the Sultan was speaking to the Grand Vizier. Somehow, he handed me two destimâls (handkerchiefs). On the second handkerchief I received, it was written:
"The scent of grace bestows a garment like Joseph's,
This handkerchief has been touched to the pure mantle of the Prophet."
***
(Note 1: "Destimâl" is a handkerchief inscribed with a poem, which has been touched to the Prophet's Mantle and was gifted to visitors by the Ottoman Sultans during their visit to the Noble Chamber of the Sacred Mantle.)
(Note 2: "Tooth rent" was a tradition in the Ottoman Empire during iftar dinners. It carries the meaning: "You have been my guest, and you have tired your teeth by eating the food that earns me reward in the sight of God, so this is your tooth rent." The gifts given as tooth rent included silver plates, amber rosaries, precious stones, silver rings, and gold coins wrapped in velvet bags.)
![■ İSTANBUL'DA HIDIRELLEZ MESİRELERİ, 1890'LAR ❤️[Ahmet Semih Bey 1890'larda Hıdırellez mesirelerini anlatıyor]:"Hıdırell...](https://img4.medioq.com/653/640/662583246536408.jpg)
