12/10/2025
Borderless: Tokyo’s New One-Star Kibun Is Not Just About Fusion
【食記】料理無界，東京新晉一星「氣分」，不是你想象的日法融合
Before Kibun’s Michelin Star recognition this year, I had always believed it to be one of Tokyo’s most underrated restaurants.
I first discovered Kibun because of Chef Ugo’s signature dish: bōzushi. Its extremely neat layers of ingredients the mesmerizing cross-section always reminds me of the textbook-perfect Pâté en Croûte by Chef Karen Torosyan, the 2-Michelin-star chef of Bozar in Brussels.
The bōzushi ingredients change with time, and on my visit, it featured takabe fish. Caught from June to September, opaque fat gradually transitioned to blushing pink flesh, with the translucent rice grain glistening under the light, all neatly rolled in kombu. The fragrance of ginger, vinegar, and sansho pepper lifted the flavor elegantly, while the refined fattiness lingered delicately on the tongue.
At just 35, Chef Ugo has trained at multiple Michelin two- and three-star restaurants across France, Kyoto, and Tokyo. After two formative years at Kyoto’s three-star Kikunoi Honten, he joined ESqUISSE in Tokyo and became the head chef in 2020. Kibun, which opened in 2024, was selected by the Michelin Guide within six months after its opening—and now, it has officially earned its first star.
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不久前發佈的2026東京米其林指南中，某個熟悉的名字出現在新晉一星的名單之中，讓我驚喜得一下子從椅子上彈起。它是 「氣分」（Kibun），一家隱藏在東京西麻布的現代料理餐廳。外觀極為低調，入店卻別有洞天。而餐廳白木板前後方的，是法國主廚Ugo。
年僅35歲的主廚Ugo曾於法國、京都與東京多家米其林二星與三星餐廳修業，說得一口流利的日語。在京都名店「菊乃井本店」磨練兩年後，他來到銀座的二星新派法餐廳ESqUISSE，自2020起擔任主廚。「氣分」開業於2024年，半年內便入選米其林指南，今年終於摘得一星，可謂勢頭正旺。
說起來注意到「氣分」的緣由，是因為不經意間看見主廚Ugo的代表作 —— 棒壽司。食材堆疊分明，一刀切下橫截面極為療癒，整齊得讓我甚至想到比利時二星主廚、有著「烤派之王」美譽的Karen Torosyan的各種派餅切面。
氣分的棒壽司除了是招牌，也是節氣的代表，其中的食材根據季節不斷變化，而當天使用的是「高部魚」。每年的6-9月是高部魚的季節，入秋產卵季之前正是它最肥美的時候。乳白油亮的魚脂漸變至粉嫩的魚肉，半透的米芯散髮著柔光，最後再以昆布捲起。生薑、醋與山椒的清爽香氣令人食慾大開，高雅清爽的脂香縈繞在舌尖。肥美程度完全不輸同期正風靡的秋刀。
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#東京 #東京米其林 #氣分 #東京グルメ
