05/08/2026
香港 Amber，是很多饕客喜歡的餐廳，那支鴨肝覆盆子棒棒糖至今仍被老饕記在心上。重訪這次，只想確認一件事：時間有沒有讓記憶失真。
鎮店之寶先講：北海道海膽配龍蝦凍、花椰菜慕斯、魚子醬，這道菜從 2005 年開幕就在菜單上。2016 年主廚一度想撤掉，熟客發起 抗議留住它。2019 年全面轉型去乳製品後，花椰菜慕斯改用椰子油和杏仁奶重新研發，鮮味完全沒打折。
其他幾個記憶點：
- 豌豆奶凍，入口先涼後化，質地竟然接近豆花，連那股豆香的餘韻都很像。這種借植物性食材模擬乳製品口感的手法，看不出破綻，也吃不出勉強。
- 沙丁魚的油脂被昆布的鹹鮮吊得更亮，水晶梨負責清口，紫蘇油的香氣在鼻腔繞一圈才散去，湯底熬得濃而不膩，鮮味堆疊得很扎實。
- 豆漿味噌奶油，帶著明顯的堅果香氣，尾韻還藏著一絲類似醬油的鹹香，厚實卻不搶戲，是那種會讓人忍不住一口接一口的麵包。
- 甜點收在孜然泡沫配巧克力，辛香把甜膩收得乾淨。
Amber 從二星走到三星，走了十六年。好餐廳不需要用力證明自己，時間會證明一切。
全文請透過 IG 首頁連結。
Amber, Hong Kong is a favourite among many food lovers, and its foie gras raspberry lollipop is still fondly remembered by regulars today. This revisit set out to answer one question: has time distorted the memory?
Start with the house signature: Hokkaido sea urchin with lobster jelly, cauliflower mousse and caviar, on the menu since Amber opened in 2005. In 2016, the chef briefly considered retiring it, sparking a fan-led protest to keep it on. When Amber went fully dairy-free in 2019, the cauliflower mousse was reworked with coconut oil and almond milk — the savoury depth hasn’t lost an ounce.
A few more highlights:
- Pea panna cotta: cool at first bite, then melts away, its texture landing surprisingly close to douhua, right down to the same lingering bean fragrance. A masterclass in using plant-based ingredients to mimic dairy, with nothing forced about it.
- Kombu-cured sardine: its oils brightened further by the kombu‘s savoury salinity, crystal pear resetting the palate, shiso oil lingering in the nose. The broth is reduced to a concentrated depth without tipping into heaviness, its umami built up in solid layers.
- Soy milk miso butter: distinctly nutty, with a trace of soy sauce in the finish, rich without ever overpowering — the kind of bread you can’t stop reaching for.
- Dessert closes on cumin foam with chocolate, its spice cutting cleanly through the richness.
Sixteen years, two stars to three. A great restaurant doesn‘t need to prove itself — time does that on its own.
Full Article Link in Bio.
Amber By Richard Ekkebus Richard Ekkebus
#香港米其林
