
13/07/2023
Material traces of Azerbaijan's Zoroastrian past are harder to come by. Some scholars believe that one of Azerbaijan's national icons, the 29m-tall Qız Qalası (Maiden's Tower) – a 12th-Century Unesco-inscribed monument set in Baku's historical Old City – could have Zoroastrian origins. When standing under the tower, two different layers of bricks can be clearly seen, and some historians posit that the lower part of the building could have had a previous life as a dakhma, a Zoroastrian funerary tower, where dead bodies were purified through excarnation.
Human remains would be placed above the towers and left for vultures to eat so the land would remain uncontaminated – another sacred element in Zoroastrianism. According to scholar and researcher KE Eduljee, dakhmas were designed to ensure that corpses and their fluids don't come into contact with the earth or run into rivers, thereby polluting the soil and rivers and spreading disease. This practice developed in small mountain valleys where arable land was scarce and disease would decimate an entire village.
Persians made Zoroastrianism the official state religion in modern-day Azerbaijan in the 6th Century BCE and altars, temples and towers dotted much of the area until the end of the Sasanian Empire in the 7th Century AD. As Zoroastrianism spread across Asia and the Caucasus, thousands of fire temples were built to protect the religion's sacred flames. But as Islam took hold in the 7th century AD, many of these ritual spaces started to disappear.
Today, Azerbaijan's population is predominantly Shia Muslim, but its two remaining ateshgah fire temples offer the best evidence of the nation's enigmatic Zoroastrian history. At Khinaliq, a small, stone pyramid stands on its rooftop and four open, arched entrances frame the green hills that rise into snowy peaks all around. The current structure is relatively recent – a sign points to its construction financed by London-based World Zoroastrian Organisation in 2016, on what are believed to be the ruins of a former altar local residents had always referred to as "ateshgah" (literally: "house of fire" in Farsi).