BPS Gear

27/09/2019

Our new camping knife, available soon

17/09/2019

The 10 Essentials for Outdoor Adventures

Every man has a different idea of what constitutes a “necessity” when venturing out into the wilderness. For one man, a fire source and a good blade may be all that is required, while for the next, GPS and a full outdoor kitchen setup might be considered indispensable. While experienced hikers, climbers, and other adventurous sorts most likely have their packing list down to a science, those who are just beginning to branch out into the wilderness can certainly benefit from a standard, universal checklist.

This list shows basic necessities that every hiker, climber, camper, and adventurer should have on hand while in the wilds. The list is by no means exhaustive and should therefore not be looked at as a packing checklist. For example, it does not mention such essentials as a proper sleeping bag and tent or a good set of boots. What the Ten Essentials provides is a list of items which you will likely find yourself in need of when the unexpected occurs. With these items in your pack, you will find yourself much more capable of responding well to all variety of desperate situations. First listed in The Mountaineers publication Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills nearly seventy years ago, the original list is beginning to show signs of age, but is still quite applicable today.

Map
Compass
Sunglasses and sunscreen
Extra food and water
Extra clothes
Headlamp/flashlight
First aid kit
Fire starter
Matches
Knife

In a recently updated version of the list published in 2003, The Mountaineers have moved away from the specific articles listed in the original Ten Essentials, opting instead for a “systems” oriented list. In doing so, they have specified the ten essential systems which must be available in the event of an emergency, thus allowing the reader to decide which items within each system fit their potential needs the best. For example, the first system, Navigation, could be represented in a climber’s pack by a topographical map and compass, or by a full feature GPS unit and spare batteries.

Navigation
Sun Protection
Insulation
Illumination
First Aid
Fire
Repair Kit/Tools
Nutrition
Hydration
Emergency Shelter

Sure, you may not need some of these articles when just venturing out for an afternoon hike, but keep in mind that the unexpected can and does occur. Trail markers vanish, bad weather appears from nowhere, and all other forms of disaster conspire in an effort to keep you from getting home in time for dinner. Armed with the Ten Essentials, however, you’ll be more than equipped to deal with these situations and even prepared for an unplanned night or two in the wilds while you sort out the situation. It happens.

Let’s take a more in-depth look at these systems and examine what articles fit the bill for each:

Navigation: As mentioned above, the navigation system could include traditional forms of orienteering such as a good topographic map of the area you are in and a compass, or it could include a GPS unit. Just remember, should you choose to rely solely on GPS, you put yourself at risk of poor signal coverage, dead batteries, water damage, and other mishaps that could leave you without a navigational aid.

Sun Protection: Sun protection of some sort is a necessity no matter where you intend on hiking or what the weather conditions are like. SPF 30 sunscreen that blocks both UVA and UVB rays is the standard, although you can always go stronger if you think it is necessary. In addition to this, proper sun protective clothing (long sleeves, hat, etc) is a good idea, and of course you’ll want to pack some sunglasses.

Insulation: Most experts agree that you should pack or wear enough layers that in the event that you unexpectedly have to sleep outside you will be warm through the night. Remember, layers insulate much better than large outerwear does and are easier to shed individually as the temperature rises and drops.

Illumination: The standard for hikers and climbers alike has always been the headlamp. A good headlamp will provide you with adequate lighting while allowing you to keep both hands free. Modern LED headlamps can be quite bright and have long battery lives. In addition, a handheld high lumen flashlight can provide you with a much brighter light when things go bump in the night.

First Aid: A proper first aid kit is indispensable, and yet it is also the most often neglected. Your kit should be kept in a watertight container and should hold the following:

Assorted adhesive bandages
Roll bandages (gauze)
Large triangular bandages
Medical tape
Painkillers
Antiseptic
Soap
Needle and thread
Scissors
Blister care
Safety pins
At least a three day supply of any prescription medication you may be on


Fire: There are a lot of options when it comes to fire. Two of these, waterproof matches and a keychain fire striker, should be considered an indispensable part of any kit since they are light, small, and reliable. In addition to these, you can also consider tinder kits, emergency flares, windproof lighters, etc.

Repair Kit and Tools: First and foremost, your repair and tool kit should contain the most important outdoor tool, a good knife. Personal preference plays a large role here, but you should be sure to have something sturdy enough to chop firewood with, and yet not so large or heavy as to be unwieldy.

Nutrition and Hydration: These are the two most self-explanatory systems and really depend on where you will be and what you will be doing. If you are hiking in a local state park that only covers a couple square miles, you likely won’t find yourself in the kind of bind where you need to carry three days’ worth of food and water. If you’re planning on wandering about in Denali National Park for a bit, however, you better prepare for the worst and pack an extra couple days’ worth of food and water. As an alternative to packing loads of water, consider purchasing either chemical water treatments or a water filter if there will be water available in your environment.

Emergency Shelter: This is a tricky one, and again depends on location and season. At minimum, you want to have an emergency blanket, or “space blanket” with you. They take up virtually no space and will help you maintain your core temperature. Other considerations are a lightweight tarp either for ground cover or to use as a shelter from wet weather or sun, a collapsible tent, or solid knowledge of how to make a lean-to utilizing nature’s bounty.

Other Items to Consider

There are other considerations as well. For example, if you are in a tropical climate, you will undoubtedly want to bring insect repellent, or otherwise suffer the consequences. Signaling and communication devices, such as a cell phone, GPS locator, whistle, mirror, etc, could be extremely useful in a pinch. In bear country, you definitely don’t want to find yourself in the woods without a firearm or bear mace. These, along with other considerations, provide solid evidence that although the Ten Essentials are critical, there is one essential not listed that you absolutely cannot go without…Knowledge.

The Ultimate Essential

Without a sound knowledge of the environment you are entering and how to survive in it, you are only asking for trouble. Find out what the wildlife is like, how quickly weather patterns change, what type of environmental hazards are present (i.e. poison ivy, venomous snakes, hungry cannibals with a penchant for head shrinking) before you even begin to pack, and you will know what you do and don’t need. Just remember, the best way to be prepared is to expect the unexpected.

04/09/2019

BS2FT camping&bushraft knife

Join our FB page to find out more - https://www.facebook.com/bpsdecentgear/

26/08/2019

Bladed Bushcraft Tools

No one can survive in the bush without at least one bladed tool. They are a must, plain and simple, and since there is such a variety of bladed tools that have many different uses, having more than one is ideal.

In fact, in the old days the most essential tools for bushcraft included three blades – a large knife, a small knife, and an axe or hatchet. Some bushcrafters also include a saw in the essential blades, so I will cover it here.

Large Knife (Machete)

If you could only take one blade with you into the bush, it would have to be a large knife or a machete. Really, a machete is just one heck of a big knife.

A large knife can handle a lot of jobs you would give to a small knife and a lot of jobs an axe could handle. Some might say it is a hybrid of a knife and an axe, which is why it is the ideal choice if you can only have one blade. A large knife can be used to:

Clear brush
Cut branches
Cut small logs
Dig
Skin and butcher game
Defend yourself against wild animals (that includes people!)
Pry or as a drawknife

Small Knife
A good solid small knife (fixed-blade or folding) is going to provide you with years of use, provided you spend the extra money for a high-end knife and you properly care for it. The beauty of the fixed-blade knife is in its versatility and its maneuverability. With a small knife you can:

Whittle and carve wood
Cut small branches
Skin and gut game
Prepare food
Prepare traps and snares
Defend yourself

You can use your imagination to come up with loads more uses for your blade. The important thing to know about a small knife is that its smaller blade allows for precision work that would be difficult with a larger blade.

I will add here that having two separate blades, a large one and a small one, is far better than getting a medium knife that you think will do it all. A medium knife will be able to handle many of the jobs a small or large knife can handle, but will not do it as well. That means you will lose efficiency and/or accuracy.

Axe/Hatchet
An axe or hatchet is another must-have for any serious bushcrafter. You can do a lot of things with an axe and it can handle some of the heavier jobs of which a knife is capable. Axes are used to:

Fell trees
Chop wood
Cut notches in wood to build a structure
Butcher large game
Dig
Hammer posts and stakes

If you think that you can use a knife to do the job of an axe or hatchet, please think again. There is no tool that is designed more adequately than an axe or hatchet for chopping wood. In a pinch you can use a large knife for axe-worthy jobs, but it won’t be easy.

Saw (Folding or a Pocket Chainsaw)

A saw is another bladed tool that is useful for bushcraft. It is a highly specialized tool that is used to cut wood for the purpose of building – well – anything. Whether you are building shelter, furniture, or ladders a saw is the idea tool, but I’ll be honest here. You can get by just fine without a saw if you have the other three blades.

Multi-Tools

Multi-tools are so important for survival than many preppers actually have them in their EDC kit. It only make sense to include one in your bushcraft kit as well. Leatherman makes awesome multi-tools, I wouldn’t buy any other brand unless I was on a really tight budget.

Carving Tools
You never know when you’ll have to make your own survival equipment on the go. For example, you might have to carve yourself a knife or a bowl. An inexpensive carving tool could be a great addition to your BOB.

(Optional) A Tactical Shovel
In case you need to do some digging (such as a Dakota fire hole), a foldable shovel is something you should have (and spare your knife or machete).

19/08/2019

How to Cook Outdoors: Hunter’s Stew

When we hunt for our own food, we can rest assured that the animal has led a free and natural life, that has come to an instant and humane end. Deer have been hunted in the woodlands of Britain for thousands of years and, as such, their meat forms a very natural part of our diets.

Venison is one of the leanest and healthiest of red meats, and a casserole provides a great way of cooking it outdoors. The Hunter’s Stew is a hearty, warming meal that is perfect for the cold evenings of winter and early spring. The dish shown here was cooked in a small Dutch Oven suspended over the fire, and served two people.

Ingredients:

2 x small venison steaks
1 x handful of flour
1 x k**b of butter
1 x large onion
2 x cloves of garlic
6 x rashers of bacon
1 x handful of mushrooms
2 x sticks of celery
2 x carrots
1/2 bulb of fennel
1/2 bottle of Merlot
2 x bay leaves
1 x sprig of thyme
1 x tablespoon of honey

Method:

1. Cut the venison into large chunks. Roll the pieces in flour until covered.

2. Melt the butter in a pan and add the meat. Cook until browned.

3. Dice the onions and add them to the pan along with the garlic. Cook until softened.

4. Add the mushrooms and chopped bacon and fry them off.

5. Add the chopped celery, carrot and fennel. Cover with wine and bring to the boil.

6. Add the thyme and bay leaves.

7. Simmer until the dish has reduced and thickened.

8. Remove the pan from the fire and stir in the honey. Serve with warm, crusty bread or creamy mash.

13/08/2019

Using the Fire Starter to Make a Fire

1 Scrape the magnesium bar. The magnesium bar is a really remarkable camping or survival tool. Magnesium is an incredibly flammable material, and in certain circumstances ignited magnesium has known to reach temperatures of over 5,000 °F (2,760 °C). Obviously, something that burns with this intensity can rapidly create a powerful fire.

If you are using a knife, try to use the back of the blade if you can; you don't want to damage the knife edge, and you are also not trying to cut slivers out of the bar. You want small flakes that will ignite easily.

It can be difficult to determine the quantity of magnesium necessary to start a fire. Too little and you won't succeed in starting a fire; too much and you'll have a 5000 degree fireball in your face. That said, it might be good to start small and then, only if that fails, add more scrapings.

2. Strike the flint to create spark. Usually one side of these magnesium bars contains a flint strip. Scrape that with your knife to create a spark.
The quantity of spark will be determined by the amount of force applied, the speed of the strike, and the angle of attack (degree at which the blade runs along the flint).
Do not stab or slash at the flint. Drag the blade across the flint or, if you prefer, drag the flint over the edge of the knife while keeping the blade steady. The latter method may be safer.

3 Encourage the development of a flame. If the kindling immediately ignites and catches fire, congratulations. If it instead smokes and smolders, you may need to gently blow onto the kindling until embers ignite into proper flames.

4 Maintain the fire. Use larger branches after the fire has become established. Watch it closely to make sure it does not burn out of control or sparks do not spread to nearby fuel sources.

5. Extinguish the fire before you leave. Make sure you douse the fire in water and stir the ashes until you are sure all embers are put out

06/08/2019

How To Use Paracord

Paracord has gained some popularity in the past few years, mostly in the form of bracelets and pouches. There are many different types, styles, and colors out there. So what exactly is it, what makes it different from rope, and what are some of the different uses for it? In this show, I’ll explain what it is and some of the different uses for it for both survival and decorative purposes.

What is paracord?

Paracord is short for parachute cord. It was originally designed to be used for skydiving. Skydivers use paracord to tie their parachute to their backpack. The most common type of paracord is 550 paracord. The 550 means that one strand will hold up to 550 lbs. There are other types like 450 paracord, 350 paracord, and 90 paracord which are thinner than 550 but will hold less weight. Paracord is different from rope in three main ways. The first is that 550 paracord has 7 smaller strands inside of it. These strands can be pulled out and used in emergencies as well. The second difference is that it’s made of braided nylon which is a plastic. This means that it will melt if you hold a flame near it. Most rope is made out of cotton or other organic materials and will just burn if they come in contact with a flame. This ability of paracord melting can be helpful when you’re making something like a bracelet or a pouch. You don’t have to tie it off like you would normal rope. All you have to do is cut it, melt the end, and press it down. The melted cord will keep the bracelet or pouch from coming untied. The last difference is that it is stronger, lighter, and thinner than most rope which makes it useful for many different things. Be careful when you buy paracord. Some cord may look like paracord but it won’t have seven strands inside of it.

What can you do with paracord?

Emergency uses:
In an emergency, you can use paracord to build a shelter. After you take your bracelet apart you can use the cord to lash some logs together and create a makeshift tent. You can also use it carry heavy loads like whatever gear you need, buckets of water, or if you have enough of it, a person if they’re injured. Another emergency use for paracord is snares for hunting if you’re lost in the woods and need to find food. You can use the inner strands as a makeshift fishing line or for emergency sewing as well.

First Aid Uses:

You can also use paracord for first aid. For example, in an extreme emergency, you can use it to tie a tourniquet. If you’re unable to stop severe bleeding by applying pressure, a tourniquet may be needed to stop someone bleeding to death. You can also use it to tie a sling or a splint. A sling is used a keep your arm immobile and relaxed if it’s been sprained or broken. You can wrap something like a shirt around the person’s arm to prevent rope burns. Then tie the rope around their arm and back behind their head to keep their arm immobile and to prevent any further damage. A splint is similar to sling except is used more for keeping the limb straight and you can tie it on someone’s leg as well as their arm. If you can find a stick that is relatively straight you can tie it to a person’s arm or leg to keep it straight if it’s broken.

Practical and decorative uses for paracord:

Some more practical uses for paracord are things like pouches for phones, knives, and Altoids tins. Altoids tins are great for making pocket-sized kits. You make first aid kits, fire starting kits, and survival kits out of Altoids tins and with the added paracord pouch you’ll have rope whenever you need it. You can also use paracord to make grips your hiking stick or knife as well as straps for a bag and monkey fists that fit on a keychain. A monkey fist is a length of cord tied around something round like a marble to make it heavy. You can then tie the monkey fist to a length of cord and throw it over a branch in case you need to keep your food away from bears.

Finally, of course, you can use it for making bracelets and even necklaces. When you wear the bracelet you’ll always have a paracord with you if you need it. There are a ton of different designs for bracelets and necklaces and you even add emblems and beads to them to customize

29/07/2019

How to Choose a Camping Knife

Ideally, the only need for a knife while camping would be for cutting food. Sometimes, however, a sharp blade is a necessity when you find yourself in a jam.

Whether you need to cut, dig, slice, hunt, pry, or signal, there are several uses for a sturdy camping knife, and even more brands and types to sift through. Here are a few things to consider for your next purchase.

Know What You Need

A survival or camp knife is different than a multi-tool one. Multi-tool knives, as the name states, have multiple tools and uses. Camp knives can also be used in various situations, but typically come with one main function and a durable, often smooth (not serrated) blade that's crafted to last.

Fixed Blade vs. Foldable

Camp knives come in two main categories, both of which have benefits. A fixed blade is more durable, but may be dangerous for a family camping trip as the only coverage will be a sheath. A foldable knife is ideal for both everyday use and camping trips.

If you do opt for a fixed blade, make sure that the knife uses a full tang construction, meaning the blade continues as one piece of metal from the end to the handle construction. This often increases the strength and sturdiness of the overall knife.

Size

If a knife is too big, you won't be able to use it for small detailed tasks. But if it's too small, you won't be able to chop or hammer. Aim for a knife that runs between 9 and 11 inches when open.

When it comes to the handle, a small one can give you blisters, while a large one won't allow the precision you may need. If you have the option, head to the store

Handle Matters

Just because the blade is top notch doesn't mean the handle isn't important. Don't skimp—your hands will thank you when you avoid blisters.

Look for hardwood, plastic, or bone craftsmanship. Additionally, check out the pommel, or the base of the knife, which you can use for hammering in the wilderness if it's solid and sturdy.

Blade Materials

A blade needs to be durable, but other factors come into play as well. Carbon steel blades can last long, but will rust if you don't take care of them. Stainless steel blades won't rust, but do come in different and varying qualities of grade (aim for 440 or higher). Opt for a sharp, strong point rather than a rounded one, as this can come in handy when trying to pry or spear.

29/07/2019

How to Dice an Onion

By keeping the root end intact, this method ensures that you can quickly dice an entire onion without creating a mess. Keep in mind that the more narrow your incisions, the finer the dice.

Step 1: Slice off the top of the onion, about ½ an inch into the surface.

Step 2: Rest the onion vertically, slice in half through the root end, and peel back the outer layer.

Step 3: Make vertical incisions down to the root end

Step 4: Make horizontal incisions down to the root end.

Step 5: Dice the onion accordingly and repeat with the remaining half.

29/07/2019

Some really old stuff found. It would be good challenge to bring it to new life!

26/07/2019

The BK04M’s medium-sized knife is slightly upgraded than BK-04 from the BPS Knives company with leather sheaths, namely, an improved handle design. The knife of the tourist knife is made more ergonomic, it is better in the hand and looks brutal. Knife with Leather sheath perfectly fit into a backpack or bag, does not take up much space and at the right moment will always be at hand. Travel knife with knives BPS Knives BK04 is not afraid of moisture and damp, it can be used in the forest, fishing, hiking and picnics. The blade made of stainless steel 50Х14МФ (5Cr14MoV) is well-resistant to moisture and is easy to repair. The handle is made of walnut, impregnated with linseed oil, covered with natural beeswax and polished. Keep it clean, clean it after use and wipe it dry, it will help keep the travel knife BK04 in working condition. After using the knife, trim the cutting edge on the skin with a polish paste or diamond stone, remember, it’s always easier to hurt a dull knife than a sharp one. The sheats are made of genuine leather (4 mm thick), stitched with strong threads and secured with rivets.

26/07/2019

Should You Use a Dangler on Your Knife Sheath?(vs the belt loop)

Danglers. Some people love them, some people hate them. Here are all the reasons you should try using a dangler, and also how to make one.

What is a dangler?

A dangler is a piece of material, in most cases leather, but could be fabric, that is attached to the belt loop of your knife sheath to allow it to be carried lower on your waist and dangle freely.

Pros of a dangler.

The first reason you might want to use a dangler is when you are carrying a big backpack with a hipbelt. If you just use your belt loop, the handle of your knife would most probably be beneath the hipbelt.

When you are wearing a lot of layers of clothing. You wouldn’t want to go through several layers of fabric before getting to your blade.

If you use a detachable dangler you will be able to put your knife on your belt without undoing the belt.
When lying in a hammock, the dangler allows you to flip the knife to one side so it doesn’t poke you in the hip

Cons of a dangler.

Well, it dangles, so it can get pretty annoying while you are walking.

Your sheath could get caught in a branch or something, and three is a risk of losing your knife.

It is harder to pull the knife out with one hand.

How to fix some of the cons

First off, if your sheath isn’t really doing a great job at holding your knife securely, you should probably reconsider adding a dangler to it. The possibility of your knife falling out greatly increases. I would recommend either a really well-made leather sheath that leaves just the butt of the handle out of it, or using some kind of a snap to be sure that your tool is secure in there.

You can also stop the dangling altogether if you tie the end of your sheath to your leg, like on those rambo knives :D. Some sheaths actually come with a hole at the end just for that purpose. Just run a piece of paracord or elastic and you’re ready to go. If your sheath doesn’t have that, you can wrap the paracord around it, and then around your leg.

If your sheath is well-crafted you should get used to getting your knife out with one hand. Then again, if you just tie it to your leg, this problem gets solved.

26/07/2019

26/07/2019

6 Important Survival Knife Features

Survival Knife Feature #1: Size

Does size matter? Yes, but when it comes to your survival knife, bigger is not always better. If your blade is too big, you sacrifice the ability to effectively use it for detailed tasks such as dressing small game or carving precision snare sets.

On the flip-side, a small blade does not perform well with more rugged tasks such as batoning and chopping. Batoning is when you strike the back of your knife blade with a heavy object to drive the knife through thick or stubborn wood. This allows the blade to be used for splitting wood and cutting through large limbs and trees.

Having used many survival knives, I’ve found the ideal size to be around 9-11 inches in length.

Survival Knife Feature #2: Fixed Blade

A fixed blade knife is more durable and reliable than a folding knife. While I love a good folder for Every Day Carry (EDC), a fixed blade has the upper hand when it comes to meeting the demands a survival situation might present.

A joint of any kind is a weakness. Minimize the risk of damaging or losing your key survival resource by choosing a knife that is better suited for pounding, chopping, thrusting, prying, and rigorous cutting.

Survival Knife Feature #3: Full Tang

Not only should your survival knife be a fixed blade, but it should also be FULL TANG. “Full tang” indicates that the blade and handle are constructed from one continuous piece of metal. Scales or grips are typically attached to the handle portion for a more comfortable grip. A full tang knife is much more robust than partial tang styles such as the half tang, push tang, or rat-tail tang. As you can see in the photo below, the profile of a full tang blade is much more substantial than its rat-tail friend.

Over time, partial tang knife blades can loosen and develop “play” in the handle–especially under demanding tasks such as batoning, prying, and chopping. If a partial tang blade comes loose from the handle it can be very difficult (and dangerous) to use effectively. In contrast, a full tang knife blade is still very functional even if the scales come off. It can be wrapped with cordage for added comfort and grip.

There is absolutely no advantage in choosing a partial tang blade over a full tang design for your survival knife. It’s difficult to break a solid piece of continuous metal. An easy way to spot a full tang knife is to look for the metal tang sandwiched between the knife’s scales. Below are a few examples. *Note: Not all full tang knife blades have an exposed tang as shown in these examples.

Survival Knife Feature #4: Sharp Pointed Tip

This may seem obvious, but I’ve seen many “survival knives” with angled, rounded, hooked, or straight cut flat tips. Despite any contrary argument, there are many compelling reasons why your survival knife should have a sharp pointed tip. The first is self-defense–against man or beast. Anything other than a sharp spear point tip compromises your ability to effectively thrust or stab your knife as a weapon–especially through thick fur/hide or layered clothing.

Similarly, a spear point knife can be used as a hunting weapon–either by itself or lashed to a pole to create a longer reach spear. I keep the allen wrench (which came with my knife) in my knife sheath pocket at all times. This allows me to remove the scales and lash the full tang blade almost seamlessly onto a staff as a spear-point.

On a more practical note, I find myself using the sharp knife point for all kinds of tasks while teaching survival classes and training in the field. Below is a short list of tasks in which a sharp pointed knife tip excels over other styles:

Detailed prying and picking
Cleaning/dressing small game such as fish
Drilling/Notching
Clothing/Gear Repairs
Splinters!
Processing some wild edibles such as pine nuts, acorns, walnuts, and hickory nuts
Accessing live bait in hard to get areas

Survival Knife Feature #5: Single-Edged Blade with Flat Ground Spine

Your survival knife should not have a double-edged dagger style blade. A double-edged blade is just not necessary for the vast majority of (if not all) survival uses. Actually, it can be a disadvantage.

Not only do I recommend a single-edged blade, but I prefer for the back side (spine) of my survival knife to have a flat 90 degree grind. A flat ground spine is ideal for striking a fire-starting ferro-rod. Rounded or beveled spines make this almost impossible.

I regularly use my survival knife to baton through large pieces of wood. Whether splitting firewood or constructing make-shift shelters, a sharpened back edge would make this function nearly impossible.

I also frequently use the back edge of my knife as a thumb rest for added leverage and control during tedious carving projects such as feather sticks or notching triggers for traps and snare sets. Projects like this would be difficult and dangerous with a double-edged blade.

Survival Knife Feature #6: Solid Pommel

The “pommel” is the bottom of the knife’s handle–also referred to as the butt. I regularly use the pommel on my survival knife for light duty pounding and hammering. It’s perfect for driving in shelter stakes. I’ve also used my knife point to chip out crude ice fishing holes by pounding the pommel with a heavy stick to drive the blade into the ice. Some knives are designed with a rounded or hooked pommel that is not ideal for hammering. I believe in getting the most uses possible from your knife. A well-designed and substantial pommel only adds to your list of capabilities.

Bottom Line
Use the above 6 criteria as a benchmark for choosing a potential survival knife. Only you can decide the features on which you are and are not willing to compromise. Beyond this, pretty much everything else comes down to personal taste.

There are many survival knives on the market that include these 6 survival features, yet look nothing like each other. There are countless styling options that come down to personal preference and have little bearing on survival functionality. Some of these features include:

Blade Steel (Carbon or Stainless – varying options with varying results)
Handle Material (Rubber, Micarta, Bone, Antler, etc…)
Color or Finish
Lanyard Holes
Decorative Milling
Jimping
Serrated or Non-serrated Blade
Sheath Design and Style
Knife Designer/Manufacturer/Brand
Blade Style
With or Without Finger Guards
Blood Groove
Conclusion

A survival knife is not a magic wand nor does it have inherent magical saving powers. The true value is in the skill of the one who wields it. Skill only comes from practice and repetition. You don’t buy a survival knife to decorate your man cave–it is a tool that’s meant to be used. Since the beginning of mankind, the cutting blade helped to shape how our ancestors hunted, fought, built, and survived. From cavemen with sharp rocks to a soldier in modern warfare, there will never be a relationship quite like that between a man and his blade. Choose yours wisely.

Remember, it’s not IF but WHEN!