12/04/2022
Before we moved to town back in August and I was furiously Googling and searching through The ‘Gram and other social medias of all things Buffalo, I came across an announcement of a new restaurant coming to Elmwood Avenue. When I first saw the concept, I thought that if they can stick the landing and make it good, this will easily be a favorite. For me, it was the most highly anticipated restaurant opening since our days in the Vegas desert. Two weeks ago, the day before Snowpocalypse struck, they finally opened their doors for the first time. Against better judgement, I didn’t wait my usual 6 week minimum for a new restaurant to start to find its sea legs, and we went yesterday. And now I must report that Parivaar Pub wasn’t good. It was - and please pardon my French, but I have no other words in my lexicon that adequately describe the experience - fanf**kingtastic!
Parivaar walks the tightrope of fusion with the deft of a Flying Wallenda. The bold Indian flavors presented in Westernized / Americanized vessels like pizzas, wings, sandwiches, and subs are done in a way as if this is the way it should’ve always been. While Parivaar delivers food that can serve as a gateway to more traditional presentations of Indian food for those uninitiated in the Masala Arts, it more than deserves to stand alone as a cuisine on its own merits.
The Kashmiri Chicken Wings get the party started right. The thick, luscious, vibrantly-spiced curry is right at home with Buffalo’s favorite chicken appendage. Interesting with the chicken itself is that it didn’t feel like the big brined and injected wings found throughout our beloved region, but more of that fresh off the farm, unadulterated bird. Only time will tell how public reception and the almighty product sourcing dance will dictate what these wings are six months from now, but the Kashmiri curry is ready to ship as is.
I’m a tried and convicted Chana Masala ju**ie, and Parivaar may have one of my favorite versions that I’ve had, yet. Paired with a beautifully and brightly seasoned salad of lettuce, cucumber, tomato, and red onion, it was a perfect pairing to the thick, tomato-forward and warmly spiced tender chickpeas. In my scorebook, this is a guaranteed order-every-time dish.
Getting into the real Indian / American fusion part of the menu, the Rogan Josh Pulled Lamb Sandwich is a destination sandwich. The lamb is melt in your mouth tender and warmed perfectly by the slightly cinnamon-forward, beautifully layered tomato curry. Fresh lettuce, tomato, and onion is the perfect juxtaposition to the lush lamb, but what truly brings the room together is the carpet of melted sharp cheddar cheese on top. It’s an extraordinary sandwich. It’s the kind of sandwich that makes you upset because you’ll feel compelled to order it every time at the sacrifice of tasting other assuredly delicious things on the menu. Oh what problems to have!
But even with how fabulous the Rogan Josh Sandwich is, the star of the show was the Keema Pizza. Before it came out I was wondering if they were going to roll with more of a naan-style flatbread or more of a traditional pizza crust. Fortunately for all of us, whatever magician is working in the kitchen figured out a way to give us both at the same time. With the butteriness of a naan and the thickness and chew of a Buffalo-style crust, it’s the best of both worlds. It’s a game changer, is what it is. And then you get to what’s on top, with a creamy garlic and ginger sauce, perfectly spiced ground lamb with peas, bits of goat cheese that cut through with some funky love and red onion and cilantro to bring much welcomed freshness. Dare I say…this pizza was a revelation. So thoughtful and well-executed, if Ravi Shankar himself went into the pizza business instead of the sitar business back in the day, this would be it. If pizza can be virtuosic, the Keema Pizza is it.
The paint is barely dry on the walls and Parivaar is already crushing it. I can’t wait to see where they go from here. To be honest, I don’t think I’ve had food this solid at a restaurant only open for 2 weeks before. They are smartly rocking a limited menu at the moment as they find their rhythm, build their customer base, and get their liquor license in hand, which should be any day now as of the writing of this gush of praise. As they grow, the menu will grow, specials will become a thing, and they will eventually roll out Sunday Brunch (!!!!!). My only advice is to hurry up and get to Parivaar right away before we all have to wait in a line around the block together and say we knew ye when.
🦬❤️
