01/14/2025
Covering food in Charleston around the turn of this decade meant saying goodbye to Nathalie again and again: I followed her to her 80th birthday party at the Beard House, and waved when she and Jack drove away to Raleigh (assertively driving over the farewell banner they were meant to drive beneath), and reported on the many, many items sold at her estate sale. I’ll let the first few grafs of that 2021 story stand as my thank you for now, with new words to come as I grapple with this being the final goodbye:
“My longstanding excuse for not having a battalion of kitchen gadgets is I work as a restaurant critic. What good is a melon baller to someone who dines at home two or three times a month?
But the better excuse is that I’ve always had access to Nathalie Dupree’s pantry.
I’m hardly alone in being able to make that claim. In addition to the countless friends and neighbors who knew they could pop by Nathalie and Jack Bass’ house on Queen Street to borrow a set of cookie cutters, The Post and Courier’s photo department had a standing invitation to borrow whatever they needed from Nathalie’s vast inventory.
If you’ve spied a mixing bowl or printed tablecloth in the background of a beauty shot in the food section, it was most likely a piece acquired by Nathalie for a cooking class or recipe testing. Perhaps it had appeared previously on one of her television shows, or was given to her by an equally famous food authority, such as Julia Child or James Beard. The items in Nathalie’s kitchen collection are outnumbered only by the stories behind them.
Indeed, there are so many items that whenever I asked to borrow something, the answer was never, “Yes,” but always, “What kind?” When I set out this past summer to make a peach pie, despite not having any tools beyond a measuring cup, I had to settle on whether I wanted a straight dowel pin or the French tapered type; a short pin or a long pin; a pin made from wood or a pin made from metal. Don’t get me started on the plate choices.”
Nathalie’s generosity, unwavering support, and good humor will be missed tremendously. Thank you.