The Food Section

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The Food Section is home to original, inclusive, and independent reporting about restaurants, bars, farmers, fishermen, food artisans -- and everything else that influences how and what we eat and drink in the American South today.

So charmed by the reverse guestbook  featuring handwritten entries for rare and weirdo wines from the restaurant’s growi...
02/20/2025

So charmed by the reverse guestbook featuring handwritten entries for rare and weirdo wines from the restaurant’s growing collection, with orders limited to one bottle per table.

This is a Pableaux post of another kind. When I stayed at his place in Summer 2021, months before launching my own publi...
01/27/2025

This is a Pableaux post of another kind. When I stayed at his place in Summer 2021, months before launching my own publication, he impressed upon me the importance of not just sharing what I saw, but making sure what my readers saw was beautiful.

Those realms aligned for Pableaux because of how he viewed the world, but we spent night after night looking at his books and talking about design. I’m humbled and honored to say the look of TFS tracks directly back to those sessions, outtakes of which are posted here. We had the last of those convos just last week, so still processing the loss of his kindness, generosity, and unmatched gusto. Thank you, friend.

Covering food in Charleston around the turn of this decade meant saying goodbye to Nathalie again and again: I followed ...
01/14/2025

Covering food in Charleston around the turn of this decade meant saying goodbye to Nathalie again and again: I followed her to her 80th birthday party at the Beard House, and waved when she and Jack drove away to Raleigh (assertively driving over the farewell banner they were meant to drive beneath), and reported on the many, many items sold at her estate sale. I’ll let the first few grafs of that 2021 story stand as my thank you for now, with new words to come as I grapple with this being the final goodbye:

“My longstanding excuse for not having a battalion of kitchen gadgets is I work as a restaurant critic. What good is a melon baller to someone who dines at home two or three times a month?

But the better excuse is that I’ve always had access to Nathalie Dupree’s pantry.

I’m hardly alone in being able to make that claim. In addition to the countless friends and neighbors who knew they could pop by Nathalie and Jack Bass’ house on Queen Street to borrow a set of cookie cutters, The Post and Courier’s photo department had a standing invitation to borrow whatever they needed from Nathalie’s vast inventory.

If you’ve spied a mixing bowl or printed tablecloth in the background of a beauty shot in the food section, it was most likely a piece acquired by Nathalie for a cooking class or recipe testing. Perhaps it had appeared previously on one of her television shows, or was given to her by an equally famous food authority, such as Julia Child or James Beard. The items in Nathalie’s kitchen collection are outnumbered only by the stories behind them.

Indeed, there are so many items that whenever I asked to borrow something, the answer was never, “Yes,” but always, “What kind?” When I set out this past summer to make a peach pie, despite not having any tools beyond a measuring cup, I had to settle on whether I wanted a straight dowel pin or the French tapered type; a short pin or a long pin; a pin made from wood or a pin made from metal. Don’t get me started on the plate choices.”

Nathalie’s generosity, unwavering support, and good humor will be missed tremendously. Thank you.

Fitting conclusion to five days of Texas disc golf which involved throwing over cattle, into Alamo-shaped structures, an...
12/28/2024

Fitting conclusion to five days of Texas disc golf which involved throwing over cattle, into Alamo-shaped structures, and around a ton of brush—an activity powered primarily by breakfast tacos, klobasneks, and H-E-B lunches. tour completed!

One last sandwich on the way out of town and on to a whole week off. Thanks for the heads up,
12/21/2024

One last sandwich on the way out of town and on to a whole week off. Thanks for the heads up,

I had so much fun today covering the Tupperware Blowout Sale in Hemingway, home to the company’s last stateside manufact...
12/07/2024

I had so much fun today covering the Tupperware Blowout Sale in Hemingway, home to the company’s last stateside manufacturing facility: Once it closes next month, all production moves to Mexico and China. Tupperware reps are coming by the busload from as far away as Texas to stock up on bowls and storage containers, but I was taken with the selection of sales prizes; kind of sorry I didn’t buy the bathrobe. (The Tupperware sweatbands are all mine.)

Totally abashed about failing to visit La Pizzeria for a couple of years, especially after being greeted with a “We have...
11/17/2024

Totally abashed about failing to visit La Pizzeria for a couple of years, especially after being greeted with a “We have those clams you like so much”—and even more so after being reminded why I do.

Birthday lunch in Miami. Let’s get cracking on 48!
11/10/2024

Birthday lunch in Miami. Let’s get cracking on 48!

Democracies don’t function without journalists, and journalists don’t function without pizza—at least on election night....
11/05/2024

Democracies don’t function without journalists, and journalists don’t function without pizza—at least on election night. Bonitta Best of was one of several hardworking editors I met along the delivery route for Campaign for Better Election Night Pizza. Remember: No matter what happens tonight, media orgs need your financial support to hold the winners accountable. Subscribe!

My main takeaway from the first day of Helene reporting is natural disasters batter dreams and bind together families, b...
10/30/2024

My main takeaway from the first day of Helene reporting is natural disasters batter dreams and bind together families, but mostly they lay bare financial struggles—which were never far from the surface in Southern Appalachia. The massive (and well-documented) overlap between climate change consequences and income inequality is heartbreaking and enraging.

Arrived in Asheville for a few days of WNC reporting, and was totally unprepared for how outwardly normal things would l...
10/30/2024

Arrived in Asheville for a few days of WNC reporting, and was totally unprepared for how outwardly normal things would look beyond the downtown core, where restaurants are keeping abbreviated hours. The plates are paper, and the cups are plastic, but the seats are filled, the mood is cheerful, and the jerk tofu is as good as ever.

While none of that diminishes the epic proportions of this crisis, it’s undeniably heartening to see mountain resilience up close.

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