Welding Craze

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The bucket corner gusset fillet cracked at the toe due to a sharp transition. I removed the failed weld toe region and r...
05/11/2026

The bucket corner gusset fillet cracked at the toe due to a sharp transition. I removed the failed weld toe region and reshaped the corner into a small radiused transition so the new weld would not restart cracking at a notch. I rebuilt the fillet in layered passes to restore leg size and throat continuity. After finishing, I dressed the toe line to remove undercut while keeping the final bead profile clearly visible. I left the joint unpainted and uncovered so the radiused toe transition is fully exposed.

The rod guard on an excavator stick cylinder had cracked loose after a rock wedged between the guard and the stick. I re...
05/11/2026

The rod guard on an excavator stick cylinder had cracked loose after a rock wedged between the guard and the stick. I removed the guard, cleaned the mount pad to bright metal, and fit a new guard bracket with a wider foot. The stick was preheated to 300°F and welded with E8018 C3 using short fillet passes. The final weld was left unpainted and fully visible. The bead had a low smooth crown, even leg size, and clean toe blending into the bracket and stick plate.

Plug welds around the hanger showed edge seepage and early cracking. I drilled out the failed plugs and cleaned through ...
05/11/2026

Plug welds around the hanger showed edge seepage and early cracking. I drilled out the failed plugs and cleaned through the openings until fusion could be verified. Each plug was refilled to full depth, not just a surface cap. After cooling, I ground all plug faces flush so the crowns are smooth and measurable. The weld area was left unpainted and uncovered so the plug crowns and weld face texture remain clearly visible.

A V groove seam crack reopened at the toe. I stop drilled the crack ends and removed the failed section, then opened a u...
05/11/2026

A V groove seam crack reopened at the toe. I stop drilled the crack ends and removed the failed section, then opened a uniform V groove to bright steel. After preheat, I welded a straight root pass with controlled travel and built the fill using consistent stacked stringers and clean slag removal. The cap crown was even and the toes were dressed only to eliminate sharp notches. I left the repair unpainted and uncovered so the entire weld face shows clear root to cap ripple definition in the photo.

The float box corner fillet cracked at the toe and the transition was too sharp. I removed the cracked toe zone down to ...
05/11/2026

The float box corner fillet cracked at the toe and the transition was too sharp. I removed the cracked toe zone down to clean fusion surfaces and reshaped the transition into a smooth toe line. I rebuilt the fillet in two heavy layers for correct throat size without a bulky stiff hump. After the final pass, I dressed the toes to remove undercut while keeping the bead profile visible. The repair was left unpainted and uncovered so both layers and the toe blend are fully visible for inspection.

The dipper plate butt weld cracked near the cap toe after cycling. Inspection showed backside fusion weakness. I removed...
05/11/2026

The dipper plate butt weld cracked near the cap toe after cycling. Inspection showed backside fusion weakness. I removed the failed weld metal from the face, then back gouged until both groove sidewalls were clean bright steel. I preheated the section and sealed the root from the backside first, then filled from the face using straight stacked stringer passes. The cap crown was built evenly and lightly dressed so the weld texture stays readable. The joint was left unpainted and uncovered for a clear photo of the full weld profile.

The boom side plate groove weld cracked at the toe and showed an open line at the root. I removed the failed groove meta...
05/11/2026

The boom side plate groove weld cracked at the toe and showed an open line at the root. I removed the failed groove metal to bright steel and beveled into a clean consistent channel for full fusion. After preheat, I welded a tight root seal with straight stringers and then stacked controlled fill layers to restore the groove throat. The cap was crowned evenly and the toes were dressed only enough to remove undercut. I left the weld unpainted and uncovered so the final weld face is fully visible for inspection photos.

05/11/2026

Is stick welding still in use?

05/11/2026

What do you make when you’re welding on personal time?

The bottom corner on a mining shovel dipper had cracked where the side plate, floor plate, and wear strip meet. I gouged...
05/11/2026

The bottom corner on a mining shovel dipper had cracked where the side plate, floor plate, and wear strip meet. I gouged the damaged weld out to sound metal and cleaned the corner until the root was bright. The dipper shell was preheated to 400°F and welded with E11018 M using stacked stringer passes. I built the weld from the root outward and kept the cap heavy but smooth. The final weld was left fully visible before paint. It had a strong convex face, clean toe wash, and no crater stacking at the corner.

The arch stop block on a forestry skidder had cracked loose after the grapple arch slammed into it while dragging logs. ...
05/11/2026

The arch stop block on a forestry skidder had cracked loose after the grapple arch slammed into it while dragging logs. I cut off the damaged block, cleaned the frame pad, and fit a new stop with rounded corners. The frame was preheated to 325°F and welded with E9018 M. I ran a root pass around the base, then added fill passes to build full throat. The final weld was left bare before paint. The bead wrapped evenly around the stop with a heavy smooth cap and clean toe blending into the frame.

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