09/03/2018
Enjoy this story we printed in August 30, 2018 issue of the C**n Rapids Enterprise. Go to coonrapidsenterprise.com and subscribe electronically for just $25 a year!
DONNA'S CAFE -- How a young couple built cherished memories for a generation of Dedham residents
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Even in the depth of winter when the bitter cold darkness lingered much later in the morning, Dean Ankenbauer was at the cafe by 5 a.m. ready to serve coffee and breakfast to the Dedham farmers. At the end of each day after the last customer had gone, usually by midnight, Dean’s wife, Donna, was able to close up.
How Dean and Donna Ankenbauer labored such demanding hours in their beloved Donna’s Cafe is stunning -- at least by today’s standards -- and yet they did it all while raising three daughters.
Dean and Donna owned and operated Donna’s Cafe for 27 years, retiring in 1984 after Dean became ill with cancer. The business sold in 1985, and Dean died in 1988.
Although the Dedham cafe continued operation under various owners until recently, the original Donna’s Cafe is a cherished memory for a generation of Dedham residents. In its heyday, Donna’s Cafe was a combination of good old-fashioned food, coffee and socializing...along with plenty of Dean’s prankster antics.
“Dean was a hard worker, manager, money maker and a clown -- he loved making people laugh. He enjoyed people...actually we both did,” Donna Ankenbauer told members of the C**n Rapids Rotary Club on a recent Thursday in late July.
Donna left no doubt about the hard work running a small town cafe but she didn’t speak with regret. In fact, she spoke with pride.
“Dean would go to work at five in the morning and I would get the girls up and ready for school, or the babysitter if it was that time of the year -- and then come to work at nine,” Donna recalled. “Dean would go home and then come back and we’d work the noon hour together. Then he’d go home again until five and he and a waitress would do the supper hour. I would come back to work after supper and he’d go home to be with our girls and I would close up at midnight...or even later on Saturday nights after the taverns closed.”
Donna said the family had one vacation in the 27 years they were in business when they won a week’s trip to Lake Okoboji.
“We were there two days and then there was a train wreck by Dedham and the girls who were filling in for us were staying open 24 hours a day to feed the clean-up crews. Dean and I came home and my parents came to stay with the girls in Okoboji.”
“Another time we stayed open 24 hours a day when they built the new grain storage units at the cooperative,” Donna related.
Dean and Donna were born and raised in Dedham. When Dean, 20, and Donna, 18, married in 1952, Dedham was a thriving little burb, with a Catholic Church and a Methodist Church, a Catholic School and a public school, two gas stations, blacksmith shop, two livestock dealers, two grocery stores, hardware store, three taverns, two garages and one little cafe.
The cafe was called “Johnny’s Place” after its owner, Johnny Balukoff. Others just called it the Northside Tavern. As a young newlywed, Dean was working at Johnny’s Place when the state was constructing the new highway (Hwy 141) south of Dedham.
“Workmen would come to Johnny’s Place for lunch so Dean was really busy,” Donna recalled. “I would come help out at noon. We would have the place full and the crews from the highway would stand at the counter to eat. When Johnny sold the place, Dean went across the street to work for Art Hoehne at the Southside Lounge. They had a chicken special one night a week so I’d come help with that.”
The young newlyweds had moved into the back apartment of a wooden building in Dedham’s commercial district. The building was owned by Donna’s father, Leo Stangl, and although it was nothing special, it was an historic structure of sorts, built in 1890 by Fred Toovey, the town pharmacist. Later Dr. Chain had an office there and then Ben Roderick had a barbershop there. Shortly after Dean and Donna moved in, the only other tenant moved out.
“By now, we had three little girls,” Donna recalled. “I said to Dean one day, ‘You know, we have this big building and it’s empty. And we’re working in the cafe for these people who are making money. Why can’t we do it?’
Dean replied, “First of all, you have to have money and no bank is going to loan us any money.’”
“So I got to thinking,” Donna continued. “Dean always bragged about his Grandma Mabel having so much money. So I thought, well, I’d try it. So I went to Mabel and said, ‘Dean and I would like to start a cafe but we don’t have any money. Could we borrow some money from you?’ She just looked at me and said, ‘Absolutely not. You belong at home with your girls.’ I thanked her but I was steaming a little bit.”
Donna was sewing for extra money at the time and one of her clients was Lucille Stangl. Donna let it slip about what happened with Dean’s Grandma Mabel and they laughed about it. The following week while Donna was out in the back alley hanging laundry, Lucille’s husband, Clayton, (everybody called him ‘Fat’) pulled up in his car.
“He said, ‘Hey Donna, you want to start a cafe?’ I said, Yea, but we don’t have any money and no bank is going to give us anything. He said, ‘Come on over to the bank and we’ll get the money’. So Fat borrowed us $2500.”
As luck would have it, a cafe in Templeton had just closed so Dean and Donna were able to buy all the equipment and booths. They worked hard to install the equipment in the front where Donna and Dean lived but when they got all ready to open, they didn’t have any money left to stock it.
“Harold Rice was the banker then and he gave us $500 out of his own pocket to get us started,” Donna said.
And by the end of the year, the new entrepreuners had both Harold Rice and Fat Stangl paid off!
In 1958 when Donna’s Cafe opened, hamburgers were 20 cents, french fries were 15 cents and soda pop was a dime. Meals were a dollar.
Donna said that business was good and they worked hard. Back then, farmers had crews to help one another during harvest season and they would bring them into Donna’s for lunch. Dean would space them out every 20 minutes.
“Carl Schultes crew north of town would be first, then Lloyds and Richardsons by Carrollton and from C**n Rapids, Marvin Penfold, then Yeagers, and from south of Dedham the Owens, and Dale Edwards. We would feed 150 people at noon and loved it,” she said.
Through the years, Dean’s antics at the cafe became legendary. Much of his foolishness centered around an old starter pistol that Dean kept behind the counter. Once when Dedham Mayor Merlin Nair complained that it was cold in the cafe, Dean told Nair to light the oil burner.
It was an old Siegler oil burner that you primed with kerosene,” Donna explained. “When Nair threw the match, Dean was waiting and fired the pistol,” she laughed. “He never complained again.”
Another time a new potato chip delivery man had just refilled the chip display holder and was lifting it back onto the counter when Dean hollered at him and shot the pistol. “Bags of potato chips were all over but eventually he came to enjoy the cafe,” Donna said.
Perhaps the best pistol story was the day when Dean and Donna were busy feeding a large group of C**n Rapids businessmen and bankers in the back dining area.
“I had just finished delivering all their food when Dean went tearing through the room shooting the pistol and hollering, ‘There I finally got that damn rat!’ There was dead silence, then laughter,” Donna laughed.
Iowa Highway Patrol officers were regular customers, dining at the cafe once or twice a week. While Dean wisely holstered the starter pistol, Donna said, he hardly eased off. When his daughters were old enough to help out at the cafe at suppertime, Dean would warn the patrolmen to stay away from his daughters.
“If you ticket my wife or daughters, I’ll p*e in your soup,” Dean loved to tell the officers.
Donna said the cafe was closed on Christmas, Thanksgiving and Easter. Except that it wasn’t. They entertained both sides of their families including aunts and uncles along with several of the town bachelors. One of the bachelors was a little challenged but he’d help with the garbage and his brother paid for his dinners. He was such a regular at holiday dinners that the Ankenbauer’s youngest daughter once thought he was her brother.
“Why did you think that?” Donna wondered.
“Well, he was always at the cafe and got Easter Eggs and Christmas presents,” was the answer.
Dean and Donna raised three daughters who all worked in the cafe. Funny then, how all three ended up in careers as registered nurses!
Donna’s Cafe was the place to go if you were a kid. Both Dean and Donna let the Dedham kids do anything, said Dan Pomeroy, a Dedham native born in 1957 who hung out at the cafe countless times in the 1960s and 1970s.
“As kids in Dedham, they really would let us do anything,” Pomeroy said. “We used to come into the cafe after playing ball at the diamond. If there were out-of-town people in there I imagine they just shook their heads, because we would walk right behind the counter and get our own pop and put our dime down on the counter. Or in the winter if we were out sledding, we’d come waltzing in and throw all our wet gloves on that oil burner to dry them off.”
Donna said she remembered Sunday afternoons when many of the Dedham kids came in and played cards “and thought of ways to torment the town cop, Bill Soppe,” she laughed, saying she never once ratted them out. “They were good kids, just a little ornery.”
Dean and Donna were veterans in the cafe business by the time the Dedham Centennial approached. It was a splendid time for everyone living in Dedham or anyone with some connection to the town. Both Dean and Donna were involved in many activities during the year leading up to the summer of 1983 when the main centennial events were held. Donna was instrumental in getting the Dedham Centennial Book printed and she made sure every family submitted a family history for the book.
But as successful and memorable as the Dedham centennial was, it also marked the beginning of the end for Donna’s Cafe. Less than a year later, Dean was diagnosed with lung cancer.
“I kept the cafe open for about eight months but then decided he needed me worse than I needed the cafe.”
Perhaps the most amazing thing in the story about Donna’s Cafe is what happened to Donna after Dean died in 1988 following his four-year-battle with lung cancer. She was 54 years old.
“When Dean passed away, I thought, what do I do now?,” Donna reflected.
She thought about her three daughters who were all registered nurses. And she thought about the nurses who helped to administer care to Dean when he was ill.
“Everything they did to Dean I thought I could do so I went up to DMACC in Carroll and applied.”
Donna earned her LPN degree, even taking chemistry because she didn’t take it in high school. In 1989 DMACC in Carroll didn’t offer an RN degree so she had to enroll at Boone. She lived in Ames because much of the training was done at Mary Greeley Hospital there.
“Funny part about that was there was a young girl who couldn’t find a place to live so I offered to let her stay with me. It turned out to be Mike and Kay Anthofer’s daughter, Michelle (CRB 1987 grad). We lived together that year and got along good and we graduated together,” Donna said.
Dr. Gary Castle called Donna before she had even graduated to ask if she was interested in working for him at the Village Clinic in C**n Rapids after she earned her degree.
“So I went to work there. Then he said, ‘You have to get your x-ray license so I went to Ankeny at night and got my x-ray license.”
Donna worked at the Village Clinic for 16 years.
“I worked until I was 70 and then I thought I better give it up, so I said, that’s enough, I quit. Then I went up to the McFarland Clinic in Carroll for some reason and a nurse said to me, “Why don’t you work here. I said, I’m 70 years old, and she said, “I don’t care, why don’t you work here? So I applied and I got the job and worked there six years. Then I thought, what if I really screw up? So I quit at 76.”
Now at 84, Donna has no interest in nursing. That can’t be said about the cafe because a few years ago after one of the subsequent owners couldn’t make it go and closed it -- she bought it back! Unfortunately, she hasn’t had much success in finding someone who can successfully manage the business.
“I’d really like to sell it or rent it,” she admitted.
But she doesn’t lose any sleep over it.
“As I always tell my girls, if I die tomorrow, I’ve lived a full life,” she said.