09/16/2025
Here is an interesting post from the February 1991 "MAARC Newsletter." Entitled "TUBE TALK - Interchangeable Types," it was written by Ted Hannah.
"One of the questions that Larry Williams and I are often asked as we sell tubes at our meetings is, "Can I substitute another tube type for the one I can't find?" Quite often the answer is yes--of the hundreds of types that were introduced over the years there are a fair number that are either identical or similar enough that they can be interchanged.
The list that follows is not meant to be complete. For example, it doesn't include the industrial or military (four-digit) equivalents of standard, commercial tubes. (They might be the subject of another article.) Instead, the list gives substitutions for tubes commonly found in the kinds of radios we are most likely to see. Some of these tubes, like the 35/51 and the 39/44, are dual-numbered types, meaning that different companies originally released them under different numbers that were later combined. Others, like the 6C5 and 6J5 and the 6D6 and 78, are so similar as to be virtually the same tube. Notice that the types marked with asterisks have different heater-current ratings from the tubes to be replaced. This is not a problem in parallel-connected heater circuits, but it is when the heaters are connected in series, as they are in ac/dc radios. In those cases, the ones with asterisks cannot be used.
Substituting one type of tube for another is sometimes more involved than simply plugging in the replacement tube, so a few reminders are in order:
• A glass tube that replaces a metal one might have to be shielded if it is in an RF or IF stage, and the associated tuned circuits might require a minor realignment. Shielding might be needed also in some high-gain audio stages. A touch-up of the alignment might also be necessary when going from a glass tube to a metal one in an RF or IF stage, and, oddly enough, the metal tube might need to be shielded in some Zenith models from the late '30s and early '40s. That's because Zenith, like Philco, was so committed to the use of glass tubes that it often did not ground terminal 1 (the tube shell) of the sockets; in many cases there is not even a terminal 1 on the socket. If the terminal is there but is not grounded, you can solder a ground wire to it and dispense with the tube shield (unless of course you wish to use it to preserve the original appearance of the chassis). If, however, terminal 1 is missing, you may need to use the original shield around the replacement metal tube. (Terminal 1 is immediately to the left of the locator key when looking at the bottom of the octal socket.)
• The bases of metal and GT tubes are too large to fit into the shield bases of some Philco radios from the late '30s. Here you will have to use a G-type tube.
• The lead to the grid cap sometimes won't reach to a tube much taller or shorter than the original. When replacing a G type with a GT or metal tube, you can either lengthen the lead or use Joe Koester's method, which is to slip a piece of metal tubing over the grid cap and attach the grid lead to the other end. If the tube is
shielded, the extension won't show.
Finally, this might be a good place to mention the curious case of the widely used 5Y3G and 5Y4G rectifier tubes, which are electrically identical but which have different base connections, making them noninterchangeable. One theory on how this duplication came about is that Philco, I think it was, wanted a rectifier tube that could not be replaced by an identically based one with higher ratings, like the 5Y3G can be replaced by the 5U4G, because such a substitution could overload the power transformer. Thus originated the different-based 5Y4G. But its uniqueness lasted only until the identically based but higher-rated 5X4G came along, and then the system broke down. This explanation makes some sense, but I wonder whether it's true. Another theory is that it was simply a case of one-upmanship on the part of the developers of the 5Y4G/5X4G; this is suggested by New Zealand tube expert John Stokes in his excellent book, 70 Years of Radio Tubes and Valves (1982), p. 111.
Are there any other ideas on this? Does anyone know what really happened?
INTERCHANGEABLE TUBE TYPES:
This tube(s) Can be replaced with
5AR4 GZ34
6A8/6A8G/6A8GT 6D8G*
6AQ5A 6HG5
6AT6 6AV6
6AV6 6AT6
6C5/6C5G/6C5GT 6J5/6J5G/6J5GT, 6L5G*
6C6 77
6D6 78
6G5/6H5 6U5
6HG5 6AQ5A
6J5/6J5G/6J5GT 6C5/6C5G/6C5GT, 6L5G*
6K7 /6K7G/6K7GT 6S7* /6S7G*, 6U7G
6L6/6L6G/6L6GA/6L6GB 6L6GC
6Q7 /6Q7G/6Q7GT 6T7G*
6U5 6G5/6H5
6U7G 6K7 /6K7G/6K7GT, 6S7* /6S7G*
6Z4 (84/6Z4) 84, 84/6Z4
12AT6 12AV6
12AV6 12AT6
25Y5 25Z5
25Z5 25Y5
27 56 #
35 (35/51) 51, 35/51
37 76
39 (39/44) 44, 39/44
44 (39/44) 39, 39/44
47 PZ
51 35, 35/51
76 37
77 6C6
78 6D6
84 (84/6Z4) 6Z4, 84/6Z4
GZ34 5AR4
PZ 47
* = Parallel-connected heater circuits only.
# = In RF circuits, may require realignment or reneutralization.
Notes:
1. The columns are not necessarily reversible. That is, it should not be assumed that a tube appearing in the right-hand column can be replaced by one in the left-hand column. In other words, work from left to right only.
2. In general, a tube with a suffix letter will replace one without a letter or with a lower letter."
As mentioned, this list is not complete and does not include the four-digit equivalents of standard tubes. By example, a 6AQ5 is equivalent to a 6001. Also note that some of the tube substitution books contained some equivalents that are a real stretch.
Sometimes the tube will have a different name because it passed some additional test. By example, the 1614 is a metal 6L6 that underwent a special Joint Army Navy (JAN) test. The AN 08-10-14, June 1944 specification reads "JAN-1614 is a JAN-6L6 which has passed a special radio frequency test. Not all JAN-6L6s are-given this test, but about 95% will pass it." Most of the 1614s I have seen have the 6L6 marking stamped on their base.
Another substitution that come to mind is that of the ultra-rare (and expensive) 6T5 magic eye tube. Although it will not look the same as the round format of the 6T5, a 6U5 or 6G5 tube is a direct, plug-and-play replacement for a 6T5 magic eye tube, as they are electrically the same. The 6U5 is less sensitive but more commonly available.
Another word of caution is that although a tube may be able to be substituted by one with a suffix, such may not be the case the other way around. It totally depends on the tube. As Ludwell Sibley points out in "Tube Lore II" under the section on Sweep Tubes "Many of these tubes went through "A," "B," or "C" variants. The changes were usually trivial (sealing tip on the base, vs. on the top), but occasionally significant (i.e. increased dissipation rating). Almost all the 6L6 tubes would dissipate 19 watts, except the 6L6GC which carries a significantly higher 30 watt rating.
Are there any direct tube substitutions not on this list that come to mind? Let's hear them.