06/03/2026
Banton of Paramount: Haute Couture in Hollywoodâs Golden Age by Howard Gutner
NonFiction, Fashion Design, Biography
Publisher: Lyons Press Published: 5.19.26
Pages: 352
Format: Hardback
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Review:
When Old Hollywood not only dominated public entertainment, but the fashion became a lifestyle, Travis Bantonâs designs were on everyoneâs lips. Howard Gutner who has previously wrote the biographies of the other two members of the Hollywood Fashion big three finishes out his triumvirate with a man destined for the law who chose to create American Haute Couture from New York to Hollywood.
Travis Banton, a born Texan came from a family prestigious in the legal community and was expected to follow in their footsteps, but after high school in New Jersey, he pursued art and design school in NYC. He worked for the premier Lady Duff-Gordonâs fashion design where he learned that making a big production out of fashion (music, setting, âmodelâ characters, and entertainment) was a must. He designed for exclusive wealth, but broke into Broadway and then was tempted out to Hollywood in the 1920âs where he pioneered designing for the actressâ character and had a gift for working with the most temperamental of actresses to wear his work. He was one of the first to have extensive control over his fashions put into his contract and his was the opinion every American fashion journal awaited when he came back from Paris and NYC fashion week.
He made âtalkieâ actresses the absolute word on chic, his Dragon Dress designed for one of his favorite actresses, Anna May Wong, is iconic. Fan and fashion magazines were rivaling Paris fashion at the height of the â30s and Travis Banton was an innovator on the lips of the fashion conscious. Marlene Dietrichâs fabulous furs or feathers, putting the word in to bring Claudine Colbert to Hollywood and âthrow(ing) a bolt of material at Caroleâ Lombard to make her look great, and there was that wary first meet with Mae West after his DA uncle had to toss her in jail⌠he went with her âoverstated and overdoneâ look that made her iconic.
But, his laziness in letting assistants finish the last touches and his alcoholism were sadly catching up to him when he had to leave Paramount and was briefly signed with 20th Century Fox in 1940. He later did some WWII âcanteenerâ wartime womenâs uniform designs, and retired from movie design in 1951 after doing successful period drama costumes on several movies. However, he wasnât done and designed for Television fashion designing for Dinah Shore and Rosalind Russellâs Auntie Mame Chinese Red PJ theater fame. His Rosalind Russell designs sent him out with a bang.
All in all, this delve into the Old Hollywood fashion glam was a feast for the eyes and Bantonâs designs and style has lived on with each old movie on TV or video reproduction, new shows pulling out of storage the old costumes for reuse, and lush, historical biography books like Howard Gutnerâs Banton of Paramount to peruse.
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I recâd a finished print copy from Globe Pequot to read in exchange for an honest review.
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