Owen Bargreen

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Owen Bargreen

An expert's guide to Washington, Oregon and California wines. I write about wines that inspire me.

Wine critic Owen Bargreen offers independent expert coverage on Washington, Oregon and California wines, wineries and will share in-depth written interviews and video interviews on his website, Facebook and Instagram page, https://www.instagram.com/owenbargreen/
Owen has a special focus on wines of Spain and Sauternes.

11/30/2025

Love the new King Estate releases, so consistent and well-priced. Paired with some delicious homemade pork chili 🍲 🍷

11/28/2025

Cuvaison

One of the great spots to visit in Carneros, Cuvaison has been a pillar of consistency for decades now. Winemaker Steve Rogstad has defined this wine program, making world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that focuses on poise and texture. I used to enjoy these impressive early 2000s Chardonnays when I was in graduate school. It is hard to believe that this winery was first founded back in 1969. Then in 1979 they acquired 400 acres of highly prized land north of San Pablo Bay in the Los Carneros district of Napa Valley which is a site that is highly influenced by fog and cooler temperatures from the bay.
The new Cuvaison are outstanding. Check out the 2023 Cuvaison ‘Kite Tail’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is dense, rich and nicely poised. Learn more about this outstanding producer at https://www.cuvaison.com and here are the killer sparkling wine, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir releases by Cuvaison.

2024 Cuvaison ‘Methode Baton’ Sauvignon Blanc- The outstanding 2024 Cuvaison ‘Methode Baton’ Sauvignon Blanc offers pink grapefruit and gooseberry notes on the nose with suggestions of gardenia. The palate is plush and neatly textured with great verve and richness. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2023 Cuvaison ‘Kite Tail’ Chardonnay- The 2023 Cuvaison ‘Kite Tail’ Chardonnay comes from older Wente Clone vines at the estate vineyard. Baked apple and shades of white peach combine with shades of salted Challah bread on the nose. The palate is dense and concentrated with serious poise and power. This is a delicious edition of this wine that is already nicely defined to enjoy now. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2023 Cuvaison ‘Debut Cru’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2022 Cuvaison ‘Debut Cru Pinot Noir comes from the Tai Vineyard and is made from Heirloom Pinot Noir selections. This is soft, round and generous on the mouth with juicy red raspberry and red currant fruits alongside fresh sage and orange rind. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2023 Cuvaison ‘Mariafeld’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Mariafeld’ also comes from the Tai Vineyard and is a Swiss-clone that is dark in color and firm in tannin. This delivers hedonistic dark fruits with wintergreen, wet rock and salty nuances on the palate. Impossible to resist right now, enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2035- 94

11/26/2025

Royer Vineyard
�Today we share one of the outstanding sites in Oregon. Royer Vineyard is owned by proprietors June and Mark Royer. Mark has worked recently as an importer of Champagne and Burgundy. June Royer also has worked in the importing business, importing teas from Taiwan and China.
I have enjoyed wineries that have crafted their wines from this site — particularly those made by Cristom. I met with Mark and discussed his vineyard and plans earlier in the year. This is the second set of releases that I have tasted so far in 2025 and I am massively impressed with what they are doing.
The new wines have loads of potential. I adored the 2023 ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is seamless throughout the drinking experience with great verve and richness. I love the character of the new wines. Learn more at royervineyard.com and here are my reviews from the new Royer Vineyard wines.

2024 Royer ‘Royer Vineyard’ Riesling- The 2024 ‘Royer Vineyard’ Riesling comes from estate vines set on Witzel soils. This utilizes Riesling clone 49, as this begins with honeysuckle water and kerosene notes on the nose with freshly cut limes. The palate is silky and elegant throughout the drinking experience with a refined texture. Enjoy this beauty over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2024 Royer ‘Royer Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2024 ‘Royer Vineyard’ Chardonnay comes from vines set on volcanic soils. This is stony and fresh with a marvelous sense of tension. Ripe peach and Meyer lemon curd flavors combine with suggestions of papaya and nutty undertones on the palate. Complex and delicious, e enjoy now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2025-2036- 94

2023 Royer ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay- The 2023 ‘Reserve’ is a barrel selection wine from vines set on Witzel soils. This is vibrant, deep and concentrated Chardonnay with serious personality. The flavor range is outstanding from cardamom laced pastry crust, lush melon, citrus and tropical fruits as well as salted cashew nut. Gorgeous now, watch this evolve over the next fifteen years. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2023 Royer ‘548’ Chardonnay- The 2023 ‘548’ focuses on single clone Chardonnay set on Nekia soils. This comes off seamless and also very stony throughout the drinking experience, as copious minerals and lip-smacking acidity both greet you on the palate. Kumquat zest, persimmon and shades of bergamot all fill the palate, alongside crushed wet rock and walnut accents. The terroir imparted here is astonishingly good. Very complex and delicious, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2025-2040- 96

11/26/2025

Love this new Horsepower lineup, paired with a beautiful range of cheeses 🐴 🍷 💥

11/24/2025

Horsepower Vineyards

Today we share the amazing wines of vigneron Christophe Baron and his Horsepower Vineyards. Raised in France, Baron and his family had a special affinity for animals, as draft horses worked the Champagne vineyards that he and his family resided over. Today we see that childhood inspiration which that led to creating one of the most coveted lineup of wines in the Pacific Northwest, Horsepower Vineyards. In his Walla Walla AVA vineyards his horses help cultivate vineyards ranging from 3,555 to 4,840 vines per acre with as little as 3' x 3' spacing—planted 1 vine per stake, or “sur echalas” in French. Year after year these are some of the finest wines of the Walla Walla AVA. The tightly spaced Sur Echalas Vineyard produces wines that show incredible underlying tension. They have been stunning wines regardless of vintage — wines that shine even in the most challenging of conditions.
Bionic Wines Director of Winemaking Karin Gasparotti took over last year for Elizabeth Bourcier. Gasparotti is an incredible talent. The new wines come from the warmer 2023 vintage. They are astonishingly good right now and have more texture than the ‘22s, with slightly less finesse. The 2023 Horsepower ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache (OB, 100) is another perfect rendition of this wine. There is not Grenache made like this in the United States. The flavor and aromatic range is second to none. Learn more about about these monumental wines at https://horsepowervineyards.com/horsepowervineyards/ Here are my reviews of the new 2023 releases by Horsepower Vineyards.

2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ Grenache- A stunning new Grenache, the 2023 ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ cobblestone laden vineyard set in the ancient riverbed of the Walla Walla River on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley. Once on the nose the takes on exotic spices alongside blood orange zest, red rose petals and suggestions of smoldering stones with Spanish green olive accents. The palate is rich and concentrated with an unctuous texture and glorious sense of length. Very rocky with great nerve and loads of flavor range, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 99

2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache- A world-class, beguiling wine, the 2023 ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache comes off very nervy and dense with a sensational mouthfeel. Beef drippings, tar, wintergreen and charcuterie notes mingle well with iodine and seaweed notes. The flavor range here is second to none. A perfect wine made in a warm vintage, this finishes exceedingly long and offers texture and weight not achieved from other wines from this region. Generous and broad-shouldered, enjoy this glorious wine now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 100

2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah- Another otherworldly rendition of this wine, the 2023 ’Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah was stored in all natural oak before bottling. The aromatic range is sensational with Oyster sauce, Nori, white pepper dusted bacon and shades of compost with wild blackberry compote. The palate is dense and nervy with great tension and weight, alongside mouth-watering acidity. Very fresh and neatly textured, I’m not sure there is a wine quite like this in the world. Ultra-novel, the dizzying flavor range leaves you spellbound. Enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2035- 100

2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this location that is set on both ancient cobblestones and silty loam soils. Stored for 15 months in natural oak, this shows good nerve on the mouth, loaded with stony character alongside sea salt dusted smoked meats, green peppercorns and shades of cassis and Arabica bean alongside loamy soils and Parma ham. Very meaty and stony, this is a gorgeous rendition of the wine that will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2025-2033- 97
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2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah- An amazing edition of this wine, the 2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this stony location outside of the town of Milton-Freewater. This opens with Hoisin sauce, tar, beef drippings and orang zest alongside shades of Middle Eastern spices. The palate is elegant and refined with a silky mouthfeel and loads of texture and tension. A gorgeous wine to consume now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 97

11/23/2025

Amazing evening out at El Gaucho with some delicious wines. Food quality and service top notch 🍷🥩🔥

11/23/2025

Champagne Taittinger

An amazing champagne house with some serious history, Champagne Taittinger dates back to 1734 when a wealthy textile merchant named Jacques Fourneaux founded a Champagne house named Forest-Fourneaux. During this 18th century he was working with Benedictine monks in learning how to craft sparkling wines. This house remained intact until the 1930s when Pierre Taittinger bought the house and named it after himself, also purchasing the estate vineyards.
After years of developing the brand, Taittinger became wildly popular in the 1950s and today it is one of the largest houses in Champagne, producing roughly 5-6 million bottles annually. Most people are familiar with their great NV Taittinger ‘Brut La Francaise’ (OB, 91) which has really nice range for the price. Taittinger has also been a hit in James Bond movies, as Bond enjoyed Taittinger in “Casino Royale.” Taittinger also founded Domaine Carneros in 1987 which has become one of the finest sparkling wine houses not only in California but North America. They also make a killer, very delicate NV Taittinger ‘Prestige’ Rose Champagne (OB, 92) that you can find on first class Qatar Airways. The Rose is fresh and also shows a gorgeous core of delicate red fruits. Learn more about this famed house at https://www.taittinger.com/en and here are my reviews of the new releases by Champagne Taittinger.

NV Taittinger ‘Brut La Francaise’ Champagne- The NV ‘Brut La Francaise’ combines Chardonnay (40%), with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and comes from 35 different vineyards and vintages. It shows good finesse and a soft mousse. Salted green melon flavors mingle well with wet rock, lemon rind and copious minerals on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 91

NV Taittinger ‘Prestige’ Rose Champagne-The NV Taittinger ‘Prestige’ Rose is a beautiful wine that you can also savor in first class Qatar Airways as I did earlier in the year. It is very pretty in its guava and cranberry fruit profile, loaded with salty minerals. The combination of density and nuance really makes this sing. Drink 2025-2032- 92

NV Taittinger ‘Nocturne City Lights’ Champagne- A slightly sweet champagne composed from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes, the ‘Nocturne City Lights’ delivers candied papaya and kumquat flavors that meld well with cloves, challah bread and suggestions of baking spice laced shortbread. It is nicely rich on the mouth with excellent viscosity. Drink 2025-2033- 92

NV Taittinger ‘Nocturne City Lights’ Rose Champagne- A very pretty salmon hue, the ‘Nocturne City Lights’ Rose Champagne combines Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. It has just a kiss of sweetness on the palate, with salted tangerine, cantaloupe and red cherry fruits that meld well with gravel and diatom accents. Delicious now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 92

NV Taittinger ‘Prelude’ Champagne- The NV ‘Prelude’ Champagne is another stunning rendition of this wine new wine that spent more than than five years on the lees. This combines equal parts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and comes from onlyGrand Cru vineyards. Salted French bread and starfruit flavors combine with dense melon fruits and suggestions of yellow plum on the palate. The richness and viscosity here is really good, as this is best savored now and over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

NV Taittinger ‘Les Folies de la Marquetterie’ Champagne- The NV Taittinger ‘Les Folies de la Marquetterie’ comes from the Les Folies Vineyard, a Taittinger estate. Stored on the lees for four years, this has amazing richness, power and underling tension. Brioche and white peach mark the palate alongside shades of red raspberry and wet gravel underpinnings. A really delicious wine to enjoy now, this will easily hold for another decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2016 Taittinger ‘Brut Millesime’ Champagne- The 2016 ‘Brut Millesime’ Champagne is composed of equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It immediately opens with kiwi and wet rock on the nose alongside orange blossom and fresh ginger notes. The palate is rich and fat with an unctuous mouthfeel and great underlying salinity and tension. Great now, enjoy over the next ten years to come. Drink 2025-2035- 94

11/23/2025

Pommery

It was visionary Madame Louise Pommery, who took over Pommery in 1858. She quickly helped Pommery become dedicated to high-quality champagne, and in 1874, they created the first commercially successful brut (dry) champagne, changing the market forever. The company also transformed Gallo-Roman chalk quarries into extensive, 18 km-long cellars for aging champagne. �They have a range of wines including their top wine, the ‘Cuvee Louise’ which is typically deep, rich and irresistible. I love the new lineup. The NV ‘Brut Apanage’ (OB, 92) has terrific density and mouthfeel. It benefits from some extra aging and is delightful to savor now. The 2006 ‘Cuvee Louise’ (OB, 95) is a fully mature champagne that is right at peak. It is a marvelous wine that I have enjoyed time and time again in the Concorde Room at Terminal 5 for British Airways. Learn more at https://www.champagnepommery.com/pommery-house and here are my reviews of the new Pommery wines.

NV Pommery ‘Brut Royal’ Champagne- The NV ‘Brut Royal’ is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. It is light on its feet with biscuit and yellow plum flavors alongside salty minerals and juicy pear notes. Drink 2025-2030- 90

NV Pommery ‘Brut Apanage’ Champagne- The NV ‘Brut Apanage’ comes from 12 different crus, and is comprised of 45% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It is richer than the ‘Brut Royal’ and comes off juicy and delicious with rich melon and citrus fruits that combine with toasted shortbread and hazelnut notes. Drink 2025-2032- 92

2006 Pommery ‘Cuvee Louise’ Champagne- An amazing wine from a tough vintage, the 2006 ‘Louise’ is dense and fat on the mouth, with only a faint effervescence. Candied ginger, salted and buttered French bread and shades of red raspberry all combine with a terrific viscosity, weight and length. Very salty and heady, enjoy this beautiful wine now when it is right at its peak. A blend of 65% Chardonnay and the remainder Pinot Noir. Drink 2025-2031- 95

11/22/2025

Renato Ratti

For more than 50 years Renato Ratti has been a stalwart in Barolo. Their vineyards spread across approx. 50 hectares, divided among 6 estates, located in La Morra, Mango, Costigliole d’Asti, and Dogliani. Renato Ratti is celebrated as the father of the cru system in Barolo and in 2025 his museum was made. It is located within the ancient cellars of the Annunziata Monastery in La Morra “to give the Alba region a museum dedicated to its wines.” It was, in fact, the first museum in the Langhe region specifically devoted to the history of local winemaking.
I love the wines from this historic winery. They are classically made and focus on nuance and texture. I adored the 2021 Renato Ratti ‘Rocche Dell’Annuziata’ Barolo (OB, 96) which shows ultra-pure red fruits with gorgeous red florals. It is a total stunner that is remarkably good in its youth. Learn more at https://www.ratti.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Ratti wines.

2021 Renato Ratti ‘Marcenasco’ Barolo- The world-class 2021 Renato Ratti ‘Marcenasco’ Barolo is a sensational release. It opens with a heady bouquet of cranberry and mulling spices alongside Mandarin orange zest and gorgeous red florals. The palate is tannic and mineral-laden, with worn leather and damp soil notes alongside peat moss and black truffle shavings. Showing fantastic finesse and texture, enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2026-2043- 95

2021 Renato Ratti ‘Rocche Dell’Annuziata’ Barolo- The 2021 Renato Ratti ‘Rocche Dell’Annuziata’ comes from vines set on blue marl soil with some layers of sand. It is very translucent in the glass, offering a lush mouthfeel. Layers of very pretty red cherry and loganberry fruits combine with kumquat rind, salty soils and shades of red licorice on the palate, with herbal accents. This is very light on its feet and is remarkably delicious to consume in its youth. Drink 2026-2043- 96

11/21/2025

Elentone

Today we introduce the outstanding sparkling wines of Elentone. One of. The awesome houses winery out of Woodinville, Washington, Elentone winemaker Chris Sherry hails from Brighton in southern England. Sherry is an fervent Brighton football supporter and shares the same passion for sparkling wines. He has formerly trained under Morgan Lee at Two Vintners.�Wines are made traditional Champagne method and are given a limited or zero dosage. He is making wines from one of the outstanding sites in the Columbia Gorge, the Rainmaker Vineyard that Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen of W.T. Vintners has made famous. Sherry’s wines are salty with a soft mousse and very approachable. He does a good job with creating refinement on the attack — whereas some producers are creating bubble bombs.
Check out the outstanding 2021 Elentone ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 93) which has an outstanding mousse and texture. Learn more about these beautiful wines at elentone.com and here are the outstanding new wines by Elentone.

2021 Elentone ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine- coming from the Clos Cheval Vineyard, this is 83% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir. The wine was stored on the lees for three years before disgorgement in August 2025 and this was given zero dosage. Biscuit and honeydew melon mark the nose alongside yellow plum. This has terrific body and weight with a refined mousse and loads melon and citrus fruits, with great salty nuance. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2021 Elentone ‘Shadowplay’ Rose Sparkling Wine- Coming from the Rainmaker Vineyard, the 2021 ‘Shadowplay’ is a zero dosage Rose sparkling wine that was aged three years on the lees. This is big and rich with an elegant mousse and great underlying finesse. Bright cranberry and red raspberry fruits collide with loads of salty minerals on the palate. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2019 Elentone ‘Cloudbursting’ Sparkling Wine- Aged for five years on the lees, the gorgeous 2019 Elentone ‘Cloudbursting’ Sparkling Wine comes from the Clos Cheval Vineyard in the Lake Chelan AVA. This combines 84% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir. The bouquet is gorgeous. Honey and shades of saline drenched mixed nuts combine with delicate red fruits on the nose. The palate is heady and delicious with plenty of power, saline topped citrus and melon fruits alongside nutty and damp earth nuances. Drink 2025-2035- 94

11/21/2025

What an end of harvest celebration with two of the Northwest’s top wine talents, Christophe Baron and Gilles Nicault 🍷 💥

11/21/2025

Turnbull

Today we share the great wines of Tiurnbull. It has been over 35 years that Turnbull has helped shape the Napa Valley. Today the winery owns over 200 acres in the Napa Valley and produces approximately 30,000 cases per year. Their original co-founder William Turnbull was an architect from the San Francisco Bay Area and designed his winery as well as many others including part of Cakebread Cellars. Later in 1993 Patrick O’Dell purchased Turnbull Johnson and renamed the winery to Turnbull Cellars. At the helm is Peter Heitz who is a fourth generation vintner. Peter applied his trade at Beringer, crafting some world class Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon under the guidance of legendary winemaker Ed Sbragia, before coming to Turnbull more than a decade ago.
The new 2023 Turnbull ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) is a beautiful new bottling with excellent poise and texture. Learn more at www.turnbullwines.com Here is my review of the new Turnbull Cabernet Sauvignon.

2021 Turnbull ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows garrigue and dark currants on the nose alongside espresso grounds. The palate is fresh and nicely textured with good weight and balance. Drink 2025-2033- 92

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This blog is dedicated to gaining a better appreciation and understanding for the world of wine. While the blog has a special focus on Washington wines, domestic and international wines will also be rated and discussed. How are wines rated? Wines are rated on a scale of 0-100. Essentially no wines that are currently made receive a score under 70. Here is how the ratings are determined: 96-100: An extraordinary or superlative wine of profound and complex character displaying all the attributes expected of a classic wine of its variety. Wines of this pedigree are typically worth a special effort to find, purchase, and consume. 90 - 95: An outstanding wine of exemplary complexity and character. In short, these are terrific wines but fall short of being superlative. 80 - 89: A slightly above average to very good wine displaying various degrees of complexity and flavor with few or no major flaws. 70 - 79: An average wine with few distinctions except that it is adequately made. A simple wine with little character. 60 - 69: A lesser than average wine containing considerable flaws. 50 - 59: A unacceptably made wine with major flaws.

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