Treasure State Lifestyles Montana

Treasure State Lifestyles Montana A monthly magazine by Montanans, for Montanans. Community based, highlighting local artists and writers and Montana history.

Our Newest Issue is out, read it online and watch for it in your local community soon!!!
01/15/2026

Our Newest Issue is out, read it online and watch for it in your local community soon!!!

Treasure State Lifestyles is a monthly magazine by Montanans, for Montanans, about Montanans. We’re bringing communities together by highlighting local artists, writers, town history stories and local events.

01/15/2026

The 47th Annual Montana Pro Rodeo Circuit Finals are bucking into Great Falls this weekend, January 15–17, 2026. As the top athletes in the region head to the Montana ExpoPark, Great Falls Coins & More invites fans and collectors alike to round up some treasures of their own.

Owned and operated by the Kelman family, Great Falls Coins & More is just a short trip from the arena and ready to assist both seasoned numismatists and curious newcomers. Whether you are looking to trade in some silver for rodeo tickets or find a rare piece of history, David and Zachary offer professional service with a family touch.

Plan Your Visit This Rodeo Weekend:

Location: 508 1st Avenue North, Great Falls, MT.

Hours: Open Monday through Friday, 9:30 AM – 5:00 PM.

What They Offer: A wide variety of U.S. coins, gold and silver bullion, fi****ms, antique slot machines, and more.

Free Appraisals: Stop by before the evening performances for a free, no-obligation appraisal of your valuables.

Before the first bull is bucked at the Montana ExpoPark each night at 7:00 PM, Great Falls Coins & More encourages everyone to swing by their downtown shop to see what's new in the collection.

For more information, visit the Great Falls Coins & More page or call them at (406) 315-3236.

01/14/2026

🤠 DUST OFF YOUR BOOTS, GREAT FALLS!

The Montana Pro Rodeo Circuit Finals are BACK this weekend (Jan 15–17), and there’s no better place to soak in the spirit of the West than Bar! 🍻

Whether you’re here for the museum-worthy history or the cold beer, come join the rowdiest crowd in town. Swap stories with real legends of the arena. 🐎✨

📍 311 3rd St NW, Great Falls
⏰ Open 8 AM – 2 AM Daily

See you at the bar!

Remembering our first responders!
01/14/2026

Remembering our first responders!

By Billie J Olson On a day filled with the sweeping Montana wind, a wind that carried emotions ranging from heartfelt tears to warm laughter, the Montana Wall of the Fallen Tow Operator Memorial (dedicated in September 2025 in Three Forks), stood as a powerful testament to their brotherhood. This sa...

Wow its a new year! Treasure State Lifestyles Montana magazine has lots of new stories and great issues planned this yea...
01/14/2026

Wow its a new year! Treasure State Lifestyles Montana magazine has lots of new stories and great issues planned this year.

By Suzanne Waring Meeting a deadline means another is looming. That’s the ongoing routine at the office of a periodical. Treasure State Lifestyles has had 240 deadlines of putting together and getting out a magazine with fantastic stories for Montanans over the last twenty years. In October it was...

Long Time Coming: The Life of a Lady Bull RiderBy Brad ReynoldsBonnie McCarroll didn’t die in the arena, but the dreams ...
01/14/2026

Long Time Coming:
The Life of a Lady Bull Rider

By Brad Reynolds

Bonnie McCarroll didn’t die in the arena, but the dreams of many a cowgirl did. When McCarroll’s horse crushed her in 1929, it vindicated every rodeo manager and cowboy who had said, “Women don’t belong here.”

But then, cowgirls’ expulsion had been a long time coming. At the 1914 Pendleton Round-up, Bertha Blancett had come within four points of beating Sam Garrett for the title of “All- around Cowboy.” Both Cheyenne and Pendleton had banned 98-pound Mabel Strickland from men’s competitions after she set the world record for steer roping in 1924. Women had proven they could be as good—if not better—than their male counterparts. In spite of this fact (or as a direct result), cowgirls were given the boot.

Bonnie McCarroll died in her hospital bed on September 29, 1929. After that, Pendleton and other major rodeos barred women from roughstock events.

Those barriers remained in place fifty years later. …When Jonnie Jonckowski barreled on through them.

Gifted
In 1994, Lynn “Jonnie” Jonckowski told American Cowboy, “I’m more of a lady than a cowgirl.”

She grew up on paved streets. Her interest was in track, not tractors. Her father, Larry, was a Toyota dealer, her mother, Alma, a stay-at-home mom. Jonnie was no more a cowgirl than her Billings classmates, and she had no intention to be.

That changed when she met Jim O’Connor.

“Man, how I loved that rugged, gruff old man,” says Jonnie.

O’Connor was her neighbor’s father, and one summer, Jonnie was invited out to the O’Connor farm, where she learned to ride horses. When her vacation came to an end, she had difficulty saying goodbye.

“I had adopted [O’Connor] as a grandpa,” she remembers. “I told him, ‘I don’t want to go, grandpa. I want to stay on the farm.’” O’Connor couldn’t oblige, of course; so, he offered the young girl an exceptional parting gift.

He said, “Pick out a horse.”

Jonnie returned home glowing. Alma, however, was dubious of the news.

“We walked over to the neighbors,” says Jonnie, “and Mom said, ‘Please explain to my daughter that she’s not really getting a horse.’“

When O’Connor backed his truck into the Jonckowskis’ lawn, Alma believed it then.

In the following years, Jonnie spent summers on dude ranches and even competed in a barrel race at 16, but horses were just a hobby; running was her life. In 1976, at age 22, Jonnie was on pace to make the U.S.A. Olympic Track Team, but her hopes were shattered by an untimely back injury.

“Dieticians, trainers, nutritionists were always telling me what do. Now I had to decide what I was going to do,” she remembers. “I saw a poster for ba****ck riding at the Red Lodge Rodeo and said, ‘Why not?’”

The thing of it was, Jonnie had never actually ridden ba****ck. “I went into a bar and asked some cowboys to teach me,” she laughs. “I said, ‘I have two weeks to learn this.’”

She picked it up almost effortlessly, and when it came time to compete, she lasted to the whistle.

“I thought that was pretty neat,” she remembers. “I got some catcalls and my picture taken, and I thought, well, that’s the end of that.”

Broke In, Broken, Broke
Not long after the Red Lodge Rodeo, Jonnie got a call.

“It was these gals that said, ‘You should ride bulls with us.’

So I did. I lost it in four seconds, but thought wow, I could get into that!”

With new direction, Jonnie enrolled in a Colorado bull riding school, the only one she could find to take women.

“It was 105 guys and me,” she laughs.

Being in a “man’s world” wasn’t easy, especially after a rough ride. Jonnie was constantly having to prove herself as tough as the boys. She shrugged off contusions. She smiled through busted bones.

The worst of it came when her nose was kicked nearly clean off by a bull. It hung by a flap of skin on her forehead.

“Thankfully,” says Jonnie, “there was a plastic surgeons conference going on at the time.”

Jonnie went on to finish second in her class, but the licks kept coming.

A broken rib here, a torn muscle there—every injury set Jonnie back financially. To make any money at all, she had to travel the circuits, and even then, her winnings rarely covered expenses.

“A big check then was maybe three hundred dollars,” she says.

In 1986, Jonnie qualified for the World Title competition in Oklahoma. At this point, she had exhausted all of her resources. To continue riding, she had to win.

“I was so broke,” she remembers. “I said I would ride or die trying.”

It was not an empty promise. One day prior to the competition, a bull had fallen on her, crushing her leg. She was unable to walk. She was unable to mount a bull on her own. The pain was incredible. Medical personnel strongly advised that Jonnie not ride. But it was now or never.

Jonnie was lifted atop a large brindle bull named B12. The chute opened. And she rode the hell out of him.

Show ‘em, Girl
Jonnie left Oklahoma a World Champion. Now she had her sights on Cheyenne and Pendleton. It was high time women be allowed back in roughstock events, and Jonnie was on a mission to make it happen.

“I campaigned three straight years for Cheyenne. I wanted to make sure all these gals in their thirties and forties got a chance to ride,” she says. “I told our story to radio and TV stations all over the world, over and over again.”

Jonnie sat for countless news interviews. She competed on American Gladiator. She appeared on popular programs like The Late Show with David Letterman, The Johnny Carson Show, and Nightline. (She even dated Charlie Rose for a time.) Every chance she got, she shone a spotlight on women’s bull riding.

In 1988, Cheyenne agreed to take Jonnie and three other women in roughstock events. Press from 77 countries were in attendance.

“They looked like they were waiting for the Beatles to show up!” she laughs.

Then came the pressure to ride.

“I was sick to my stomach,” she remembers. “I had been telling the story so long that now I had to prove I belonged there.”

Jonnie got thrown pretty bad on her first ride, but she maintained her poise.

“Everyone looks at you like you’re their sister. Nothin’ flattens a crowd like a girl getting hurt,” she explains. “I jumped up and waved at everybody, and they cheered.”

After the performance, fans rushed to get autographs.

“George Straight was there. His autograph line was half as long as mine,” laughs Jonnie.

Cheyenne invited her back in ’89, and again she was hailed as a media sensation. After that, the Pendleton committee reversed their stance on women in roughstock. In ‘91, Jonnie rode into the arena, the first woman to do so since Bonnie McCarroll in 1929.

“I slapped the sign that read, ‘No women beyond this point,’” she remembers. “Alice Greenough’s brother, Turk, was there. He hugged me and said, ‘You show ‘em, girl. This has been a long time coming!’”

Idols and Angels
Jonnie returned home to Montana in 1996. Her mother had developed Alzheimer’s, and her father needed help taking care of her.

“She was an incredible human being,” says Jonnie. “I once asked her why she was always at the airport when I flew out, but she was never there when I came home. She said, ‘I wouldn’t miss it. I always thought it would be the last day I saw you alive.’ She never let that fear show. She allowed me to be me.”

After her mother passed, Jonnie went to work in a Billings nursing facility, but she had trouble following rules.

“One patient, Ruby, was coming up on her 99th birthday,” says Jonnie. “She was an old rancher from Colstrip, could hardly move or see. I said, ‘What do you want for your birthday, Ruby?’ She said, ‘I want a paint pony.’”

A few days later, Jonnie put rubber shoes on a horse and walked him right into Ruby’s room. She placed a grain bucket on the bed, so that Ruby could pet him.

“She was so happy. She said, ‘My God, Jonnie. I can smell him.’ The rest of the afternoon, everyone wanted to see the horse. Most of the rooms were too crowded, so we had to take the screens off windows so he could stick his head in,” Jonnie recalls. “Management pink-slipped me the next day.”

Jonnie was once again jobless, but far from disheartened. In 1998, she established Angel Horses, a nonprofit organization that provides physical and emotional stimulus to senior citizens—especially those affected by Alzheimer’s— through the use of rescued horses (and other animals) in a therapeutic environment.

“Being with the horses, you see people come alive,” says Jonnie. “One woman told me, ‘Dad hasn’t looked at me with this much clarity in a year.’”

Along with the elderly, Angel Horses also services at-risk youth, children with special needs, and families affected by cancer. The organization is 100 percent volunteer-run, 100 percent funded through donations.

“Horses, insurance, food, transportation—it’s a huge bill every month. I live in poverty to keep it going,” Jonnie explains, matter-of-factly.

She doesn’t ask for sympathy. For Jonnie, poverty has always been a hurdle, never a wall. Wherever she’s gone, she’s found strangers to call friends. Her kindness and charisma have opened doors for her wherever life leads.

“I got to go around the world with a quarter in my pocket,” she beams.

In 2022, filming is set to begin on a major motion picture about her life. Titled Baby, Hold On, the film is written by Gigi Levangie (Stepmom), directed by Nash Edgerton (Gr**go), and stars Sienna Miller (American Sniper) as the illustrious lady bull rider.

“It puts me in a head-spin,” says Jonnie of the movie. “Hopefully it can inspire someone out there.”

The road to the top is never easy, and you’ll never get there if you accept the status quo. To all the girls out there who have ever been told, “You can’t” or “You won’t” or “That’s for the boys,” Jonnie has a message for you:

“Don’t listen to what anyone says. Have a little faith. Do what makes you happy.”

Treasure State Lifestyles Montana

The largest snowflake ever observed in the world was  recorded in Montana on January 28, 1887 in Fort Keogh. Discovered ...
01/13/2026

The largest snowflake ever observed in the world was recorded in Montana on January 28, 1887 in Fort Keogh. Discovered by Matt Coleman a ranch owner, it measured 15 inches wide by 8 inches thick, setting the World record. It remains the largest snowflake ever documented.

Montana also holds the world record for the greatest temperature change in 24 hours. On January 14-15, 1972, the temperature went from -54°F to 49°F, a whopping 103 degrees in Loma!

In 2024 during a major Arctic outbreak, Chester, Montana, was hit a continental U.S. record low of -54°F, highlighting Montana's extreme winter conditions.
Treasure State Lifestyles Montana

The Mother of Belt: Mattie Bell CastnerMattie Bell was born into slavery in Newton, North Carolina on April 10, 1855. Sh...
01/13/2026

The Mother of Belt: Mattie Bell Castner

Mattie Bell was born into slavery in Newton, North Carolina on April 10, 1855. She was owned by Mr. Bob Setter until she was 8 years old when she was freed. After, she worked in Newton as a child’s nurse until she was 15. From there she moved to St. Louis, Missouri and worked as a hotel maid for 6 years. While in St. Louis, Mattie made friends with Mrs. Sire, and she left her children in Mattie’s care. Mattie later brought them to Fort Benton to join their mother. The journey took 3 months. Mattie stayed and ran a successful laundry. She met John Castner, a white Pennsylvania freighter, and they married. John Castner founded the first coal mines at Belt and freighted coal to Fort Benton.

They settled along Belt Creek and built the first log cabin. This cabin grew over time and became the Castner Hotel. It was also a station for the Great Falls-Lewistown stage line. As the town grew in population, the cabin gained additions until it assumed the picturesque appearance of a southern plantation. Mattie’s chicken dinners were held in fond memory for many old-time guests.
Mattie also owned her own ranch that was located fifteen miles east in the foothills of the Highwood mountains. The ranch was 640 acres, 70 of which were used for farming. It was well watered by streams and numerous springs. She had six head of beef cattle, 20 horses and 8 hogs, as well as raising 45 acres of winter wheat, oats, barely and timothy. The ranch property was valued at $25 an acre.
In 1879, a young boy named Albert was left with her and she raised him as her own son. In 1886, Mattie went back to Newton, NC to look for any family she could. She only found one brother and one sister. Her mother, father, and other family had been sold to someone and no record could be found. After she returned to Belt, Mattie sent for her sister and brother-in-law, the Byers. They stayed until 1889, when they returned to North Carolina due to Mrs. Byers failing health. In 1897, Mattie brought her great niece and namesake Mattie to Belt from North Carolina.

The Castner’s generosity and hospitality made Belt into a community from the very beginning. Mattie and John ran their own independent commercial endeavors and businesses. John Castner passed in 1916. At the time of her death in 1920, Mattie was the largest single landowner in Belt. She donated most of her estate, nearly $25,000, (over $325,000 today) to local charities.

Story by The History Museum Great Falls
Photos courtesy of University of Montana - Missoula, Mansfield Library and the Montana State Library.
Cascade County Historical Society
Treasure State Lifestyles Montana

Rodeo CowgirlsA century ago, women on the East Coast rebelled against gender norms with bobbed hair and hip flasks. Mean...
01/12/2026

Rodeo Cowgirls

A century ago, women on the East Coast rebelled against gender norms with bobbed hair and hip flasks. Meanwhile, Western women subverted traditional roles by climbing atop bucking broncos. Female ranch hands like Lucille Mulhall had been riding broncs and roping bulls alongside men for years now, proving that rodeo wasn’t just for men. In fact, Mulhall was the first woman to be referred to as a “cowgirl.” (It was nothing new for a woman to be skilled on horseback; on the contrary, it was a necessity in the West, but no one had used the term “cowgirl” to describe a female cowboy until the 1900s when Will Rogers invented the word to describe Mulhall’s ranching and rodeo expertise.)

Mulhall’s father ran a Wild West Show, so her exploits were known around the country. The New York World described her as a ninety-pound woman who could break a bronc, lasso and brand a steer, and shoot a coyote from 500 yards away. Her feats were admired across the U.S. and by historical figures such as Teddy Roosevelt and Geronimo. Mulhall’s example would help to pave the way for the “Golden Age” of women’s rodeo in the 1920s.

One of the cowgirls who hit it big in this era was Fox Hastings. As a rebel and a runaway, Eloise Fox Wilson left California at fourteen to become a trick rider for the Irwin Brothers’ Wild West Show. By sixteen, she was married to Mike Hastings and learning to perform rodeo stunts. Her interest in rodeo, coupled with her rough and tumble attitude, led her to become one of the first female steer wrestlers, setting a record in 1924 at seventeen seconds. Her skills as both a steer wrestler and a trick rider made her a fan favorite throughout the 1920s, and she competed alongside both men and women, flaunting her rodeo expertise and proving that she was just as good as (if not better than) any or cowboy.

Another rodeo cowgirl of the 1920s was Montana’s own Fannie Sperry-Steele. Sperry-Steele was born on her parents’ homestead at the base of the Sleeping Giant (North of Helena). By the time they could walk, Sperry-Steele and her siblings were already receiving riding instructions from their mother.

Rachel Sperry would put Sperry-Steele on top of a sturdy horse and give her instructions not to fall off. If the young girl did lose balance and tumble, her mother would s***k her and put her back on the horse to try again. It’s no wonder that Sperry- Steele, along with her brothers and sisters, was an outstanding rider even before reaching adulthood. By age sixteen, in 1903, Sperry-Steele had already built a strong local reputation for rounding up feral horses in her family corral, riding the rowdiest of the lot.
Over the next decade, Sperry-Steele would win awards and admiration for her daring horse-riding feats. In 1912, she participated in her first rodeo in Calgary. On the last day of the competition she rode a bucking bronco named Red Wing, earning the title of “Lady Bucking Horse Champion of the World.” What made this achievement particularly exceptional was the fact that Red Wing had thrown and trampled cowboy Joe LaMar to death just days before Sperry-Steele’s ride.

After marrying Bill Steele in 1913, Fannie Sperry-Steele began touring with Buffalo Bill Cody, riding broncos and performing other stunts. She competed in rodeos until 1925 but continued riding exhibition horses until she was fifty. Having conquered the horse that killed Joe LaMar, as well as proving herself alongside Western legend Buffalo Bill, Sperry-Steele demonstrated that a cowgirl was capable of doing anything that a cowboy could. Sperry-Steele’s strength and determination made her a trick-riding legend and her passion rodeo is evident by her quote, “If there are no horses in heaven, I do not want to go there.” Despite her attraction to danger, Sperry-Steele lived to be ninety-four and died of natural causes.

Lit was the tragic death of fellow rodeo cowgirl Bonnie McCarroll that would lead to the decline of women’s admittance in rodeo competitions. McCarroll was a champion rodeo performer – bulldogger, steer rider, and most notably, a bronc rider. Having grown up on a cattle farm, she was no stranger to steers and horses, and by age eighteen McCarroll had won first place in the Pendleton Round-Up. It was at this competition in 1929 that McCarroll suffered her fatal accident. Pendleton Round-Up rules dictated that cowgirls ride with their stirrups hobbled (tied beneath the horse), making it easier for cowgirls to hold on. The downside, however, was that it was very hard for them to free their feet from the stirrups in case of an emergency. When Bonnie McCarroll’s bronc, Black Cat, was un- blindfolded for her ride, the horse fell. In its confusion, it summersaulted and then began bucking wildly while McCarroll’s unconscious body bounced around, her foot stuck in the stirrup. She suffered several hard blows to the head and was taken to the hospital. She passed away eleven days later from her injuries.

Though McCarroll’s death was a fluke, the Pendleton Round-Up decided to ban women’s bronc riding, and by the 1940s, the event was banned in all major rodeos. Other women’s events were pushed out as well, until the role of the rodeo cowgirl was almost strictly reduced to pageantry.

In 1948, however, a group of women decided that they weren’t going to let men box them out. Thirty-eight cowgirls (many of them who had operated their family farms during WWII) gathered in San Angelo, Texas to discuss women’s participation in rodeo. The group decided that if men weren’t going to let them compete, they would create their own competitions. Thus, the Girl’s Rodeo Association (GRA) was formed.

From those original 38 women, the GRA grew to include other ropers, riders, and racers. As the first women’s sports association in the country, it was well received by cowgirls across the nation, who appreciated the chance to participate in rodeo competitions again. By 1981, the GRA changed its name to the Women’s Professional Rodeo Association (WPRA). It has continued to inspire cowgirls to participate in rodeo and honor those first women pioneers of the sport, who were unafraid to saddle up alongside the men.
Treasure State Lifestyles Montana

Cleveland, Montana, is a historic, unincorporated community in Blaine County, known for its scenic location, past homest...
01/11/2026

Cleveland, Montana, is a historic, unincorporated community in Blaine County, known for its scenic location, past homesteading era, and connection to the Bear Paw Mountains Backcountry Drive. Once a small town with a post office, store, and saloon, it now consists of little more than a school and remnants of its past, including a historic rodeo ground, but remains a landmark on a popular scenic route near Chinook.
Photo: Cleveland School Charles E Morris
Montana State Library History Portal
Treasure State Lifestyles Montana

The Dawn of RodeoIn the 1700s, horses were often as wild as the West itself. Early cowboys mounted mustangs (descended f...
01/11/2026

The Dawn of Rodeo
In the 1700s, horses were often as wild as the West itself. Early cowboys mounted mustangs (descended from stock introduced by the Spanish) and had to “break” them of bucking off riders. Sometimes a horse was too wild for the average cowboy to train; so, a bronc buster would come in and take on the challenge. With time, this developed into friendly competitions between neighbors.

As Westward expansion boomed in the 1800s, so too did the cattle industry. This was the golden age of the cowboy, as many a cowhand was needed to drive cattle to the nearest eastbound train. (The first rails did not reach Texas until 1853 and Montana until 1880.) At the trail’s end, cowboys would often celebrate with informal tournaments between outfits, each competing for the honor of their brand in contests of riding and roping.

As the century progressed, riding and roping competitions caught on more broadly, gradually appearing at race tracks, fairgrounds, and festivals across the country.

In 1882, William Frederick Cody, aka Buffalo Bill, organized the first major rodeo and Wild West show in North Platte, Nebraska. This phenomenon exploded in popularity as the century— and the Open Range Era—came to a close. With the invention of barbed wire in 1873, expansion of the railroads, and the blow dealt to the cattle industry
following the harsh winter of ’86-’87, a demand for cowhands dwindled. Those unable to find work in agriculture often put their skills to use as entertainers in a traveling “Western” show.

Even those who did find work riding for a brand were often in need of supplemental income, which could be earned through “cowboy competitions.” Unlike earlier contests, these competitions took place at annual stock shows, in front of paying spectators. The prize pool generated at these events attracted talent far and wide, which, in turn, enticed more visitors to attend. Ultimately, communities hosting these competitions benefitted financially from the influx of both participants and viewers. This economic boost made it in everyone’s best interest to promote the local “rodeo,” as the gatherings came to be called. For many towns (as is true today), the rodeo was the biggest event of the year.

In the 1900s, Wild West shows faded into obscurity, becoming too cost-prohibitive to produce; however, the appeal of the West was as strong as ever, evidenced by the growing popularity of rodeos across the United States. In 1929, representatives from some of the nation’s largest rodeos founded the Rodeo Association of America, creating a standard set of rules for determining champions.

Though the wild frontier is no longer, its spirit remains in the rodeo arena, where determination, grit, and a little luck still make or break a cowboy.
Treasure State Lifestyles Montana

DANGEROUS ROMANCE OF THE MISSOURI RIVER BREAKSPhoto and Article by L. Abigail Jones“Lord, I’m an idiot. Please protect m...
01/11/2026

DANGEROUS ROMANCE OF THE MISSOURI RIVER BREAKS
Photo and Article by L. Abigail Jones

“Lord, I’m an idiot. Please protect me.”

I repeated the plea a minimum of fifteen times. I’m not new to backcountry hiking. I’ve traversed the Grand Canyon rim to rim, boulder-hopped in the Wichita Mountains, and hunted remote coulees in thigh-deep snow. But a “casual” hike in the Missouri River Breaks had this Montana girl praying.

I was standing on the side of a remote crag along the river, one hand tangled in sagebrush to anchor me. I realized that the high trail I was crossing to avoid the gumbo-thick creek bottom below me didn’t have just one sinkhole: It had twenty, and I had passed several without seeing them. My feet could be on solid rock, or six damp inches of soil above a failed search-and-rescue attempt.

As I backed out, I reflected on how quickly I walked into trouble, despite my experience and local upbringing. My idea of the Breaks as a ‘land that eats men’ was not just a fanciful impression. It’s a land that doesn’t balk at eating anyone, whether backcountry neophyte or Bear Grylls, under the right (or wrong) set of circumstances. In 2003, a Minnesota Hunter exited his truck at an access site along the river.

He’s still missing.

History knows the Missouri Breaks by many designations: Native American Homeland. The Lewis and Clark Trail.

Sportsman’s Paradise, Cowboy Heaven, a bane to homesteaders and a boon to outlaws. I could add another one: The land where Montana could morph from “The Last Best Place” into “The Last Best Place to Die.” But in a land of rough beauty, despite the blunt indifference of nature to the unwary, there’s a chance to experience life and lost history in an unparalleled fashion. It hit me on the second day of camping that the real difference down in the ‘bottoms’ was, simply, nature without interference.

But nature has it’s own rhythms, and even as respectful travelers, nature will interfere with us. Once, I thought I heard a man laughing across the expanse. It was a pelican, wheeling up the canyon and cackling.

On the Missouri, the relentless flow of water is surrounded on both banks by an incomprehensible, maze-like landscape seemingly without rules of up-and-down. The ground shifts every time it rains. In their journals, Lewis and Clark were quick to record their awe about the abundance of wildlife and their wonder at water-sculpted monoliths of rock – but they were just as eloquent about curtains of clinging insects and the dangers of unstable ground.

Two hundred years later, despite fiberglass and gore-tex, the same problems plague would-be travelers. Charlie Pfau, proprietor of Don’s in Lewistown, reflected on the dangerous nature of the area. “I’m not worried about this country ever being settled.” He said thoughtfully. “The roads wash out every two years. The PN bridge road was re-done five years ago, and it’s washed out twice. We’re using modern technology, and Mother Nature keeps wiping it out.”

When dusk settles on the river, light fades over the edge of the crags and blackness fills in every hole and nuance of the landscape. The stars are like small distant fires, constellations delineated against an unimpeded darkness. Shooting stars sometimes dart between them.

It is, in the correct use of the word, Awesome. But I never want to be a foot from camp without light. It’s breathtaking to wander (respectfully) into the stark wilderness of the Breaks.

But one caveat: if you do venture into one of the last truly wild yet accessible areas in the U.S., make sure that “losing yourself” stays a metaphor.
From a published issue in 2015
Treasure State Lifestyles Montana

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