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Alpinist Magazine

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05/23/2026

Mountain Standards Gear Review: Wild Country has made some useful adjustments to their Friends including extendable slings and extra grooves on the lobes. Katie Griffith tested these new Friends over the winter in Joshua Tree and Red Rocks and found the extendable slings using Flow Cord to be noticeably more durable than the previously equipped Dyneema slings.

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/new-and-improved-wild-country-friends-clip-with-ease-while-cruxing-out/

Katie Griffith, puts the new Wild Country Friends to test in her backyard climbing area, Joshua Tree, California. [Photo] Nate Pakula

05/18/2026

In the film Guerreras, Alita Contreras is shown preparing for a long, traversing rock route on a cliff in Colombia. Her dog by her side, Contreras mimes the moves, headphones on, eyes closed, meditating on what she’s about to climb.

Contreras was born in Venezuela, but her Colombian father made sure to keep traditions from his home country alive during her upbringing. Today, she lives and climbs in Colombia and works as a translator and climbing coach.

In this conversation, she discusses the challenges of navigating identity after living in seven countries, and speaks to the incredible biodiversity and climbing communities found in Colombia. We also talk about her involvement in the making of Guerreras, a documentary that takes an intergenerational look at women climbers in Colombia.

Alita guides us through her tactics for visualization, and speaks to how being engaged in a climb is often the only way she can clear her mind of mental clutter.

Listen now on Alpinist.com/podcast, Apple, Spotify or Stitcher.

This episode is possible thanks to the support of Patagonia.

📸 Alejandro Cepeda ()

05/12/2026

Mountain Standards Gear Review: PrimaLoft’s Gold, Silver and Black insulations are made with sustainability in mind and are durable, have high warmth-to-weight ratios and remain warm when wet. IFMGA Mountain Guide Mike Lewis tested four items using PrimaLoft insulation made by Helly Hansen, Millet, Fjällräven and Flylow.

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/primaloft-gold-silver-and-black-100-recycled-and-high-warmth-to-weight-ratios/

Mike Lewis stands atop Mount Sneffels (14,157’) in November wearing Fjällräven’s Bergtagen Vest insulated with PrimaLoft Silver. [Photo] Uğur Kocataşkin

05/08/2026

So far this year, we’ve gotten a glimpse into the mind of Reinhold Messner, let Jeremy Collins’ words and sketches transport us around the world and adventured with the Explorer’s Club. Perhaps you’ll be inspired to pick up a copy of Against the Wind, Eventually a Sequoia or Letters from the Edge while we’re busy at work on Alpinist 94. Happy reading!

You can now read the reviews here: https://alpinist.com/escape-route/what-were-reading-2026-vol-1/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 93 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/93

Book covers of the titles Alpinist editors and contributors have reviewed since the start of 2026.

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04/20/2026

Mountain Standards Gear Review: IFMGA Mountain Guide Dylan Reed tested Black Diamond’s Solution Guide Harness on granite, sandstone and ice. Dylan found the padded harness to be welcomingly comfortable on multipitch climbs and the gear loops provided ample space for a large rack. Dylan found some features less than ideal for his preferences, but overall the harness was well-built for durability, comfort, and handling heavy loads.

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/black-diamonds-solution-guide-harness-bringing-comfort-back-into-focus/

Wearing Black Diamond’s Solution Guide Harness, Dylan Reed takes off onto the third pitch of All Mixed up in Rocky Mountain National Park. [Photo] Scott Allen

04/14/2026

Climbing documentarians Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen are known for films such as “The Alpinist” and “Valley Uprising.” Now the directors are out with a four-part documentary series “The Dark Wizard,” which premieres on HBO Max on April 14.

The documentary traces the life of Dean Potter, who was well known in the world of climbing for his bold free soloing, BASE jumping, and highlining. But the human behind those efforts was quite complicated, something that is illustrated through interviews with friends, family, and climbing partners—and archival interviews with Potter himself.

Mortimer and Rosen reflect on their own relationships with Potter, whom they filmed with often before he died in a wingsuit BASE jumping accident in Yosemite in 2015. The pair share why they felt this film needed to be made in an honest way and how Potter’s journals, provided by his sister, presented a lesser-known side of him, one that was quite vulnerable.

Listen now on Alpinist.com/podcast, Apple, Spotify or Stitcher.

This episode is possible thanks to the support of Patagonia.

04/03/2026

In late March, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau climbed a new route on Alaska’s Mt. Dickey. They named their route, which follows sustained ice up the mountain’s south face, Heavy is the Hand (WI6+ M6+ A1, 5,000’).

“As we passed Mt. Dickey’s south face, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and I unanimously threw our thumbs in the air and said: ‘Drop us in the Gorge,’” writes Rousseau.

Read the story by on Alpinist.com

1) Alan Rousseau starting into the upper slopes of Mt. Dickey. [Photo] Matt Cornell
2) The main difficult portion of Heavy is the Hand (WI6+ M6+ A1, 5,000’) as seen from the plane. [Photo] Alan Rousseau
3) Rousseau climbing through consistent névé, low on the route. [Photo] Matt Cornell
4) Jackson Marvell approaching the short section of aid on the route. [Photo] Matt Cornell
5) Matt Cornell coming up the first pitch on day two. [Photo] Alan Rousseau
6) Rousseau, Marvell and Cornell on the summit of Mt. Dickey. [Photo] Jackson Marvell

03/27/2026

Mountain Standards Gear Review: Mammut’s Eiger Nordwand Pro SO Hooded Jacket and Pants are very well-made with intention toward functionality, durability, mobility and multitasking, and even a little, or maybe a lot, bling. IFMGA Mountain Guide Mike Lewis tested these mountain crushers throughout the Rockies of Canada, Colorado, Wyoming and Utah.

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/mammuts-eiger-nordwand-pro-so-hooded-jacket-and-pants-versatile-mountain-crushers/

Mike Lewis tests Mammut’s Eiger Nordwand Pro SO Hooded Jacket and Pants on a resort and side-country powder day at Kicking Horse, British Columbia, Canada. [Photo] Uğur Kocataşkin

03/26/2026

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 93—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz celebrates the humble value of small backwater places that can offer us much more than what meets the eye. He writes:

“In recent months, a cluster of humble boulders near a small town where I grew up has given me solace. As a teenager I couldn’t wait to escape that quiet, dusty town. I was unaware of the boulders and so many other things nearby. Now, whenever I have a few hours on a clear ‘winter’ day, I drive half an hour to return to a place I once loathed…. I am searching for the line. That can be many things. On the rock, it is an enchainment of moves that flow together like music.”

You can now read the story here: https://alpinist.com/features/finding-solace-in-small-things/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 93 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/93

1) Guy Poulet (right), Pierre Allain (top left), René Ferlet (center) and Jacques Poincenot bouldering in Fontainebleau, France. [Photo] Michel Guérin collection

2) John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, enjoys a lowball near his home in Colorado, 2005. [Photo] Stewart M. Green
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03/25/2026

ALPINIST 93 | SPRING 2026 | ARAPILES/DYURRITE | BAFFIN ISLAND |YOSEMITE | ALASKA | PAIN AND PLEASURE

Issue 93 features a story by Ross Taylor and Simon Madden about the climbing closures that are currently under review in Australia for Mt. Arapiles (Dyurrite) after broad closures for the Grampians (Gariwerd) were announced suddenly in 2019. Meanwhile, Steve Arsenault, David Barnes and Hayden Jamieson share stories that highlight the evolution of the culture and pursuit of climbing Down Under.

Elsewhere in the magazine, Matt Spohn shares an essay of poems and photos exploring the question of why he continues to climb even after being badly injured and witnessing deaths in the mountains. Researcher Anna Saroldi explores the famed writing of Scottish author Nan Shepherd with a new lens: Isn’t the way Shepherd writes about the mountains a bit … kinky? And Dean Fidelman presents rare photos and perspective from the archive of Glen Denny, who documented Yosemite’s Golden Age and brought an artistic approach to climbing photography that continues to influence others long after his death in 2022 at age eighty-three.

Meanwhile, Derek Franz finds solace in the boulders. Franz, Abbey Collins and Tom Hallberg share reading recommendations. Collins interviews Lane Christenson. Plus, the watch that ascended Nanga Parbat in 1953.

Miles Fullman enters the hall of the giants on Baffin Island. David Stevenson proves himself, Babsi Vigl contemplates risk and Hannah Mitchell laughs through setbacks in Tajikistan. Alan Wechsler cracks open his uncle’s journal from a 1982 expedition to Denali. Earl Bates reports on the El Cap reporter, Tom Evans. Jeremy Collins shares excerpts from his latest book. And much, much more.

Find Alpinist 93 on newsstands, in our online store or subscribe at Alpinist.com/93

Cover: Connor Herson works through the “pogo” crux on Drifter’s Escape in Swwú7mesh (Squamish). Herson completed the first free ascent of the route in July and proposed a grade of 5.15a—meaning it likely consists of some of the hardest trad climbing in the world. [Photo] Christian Adam

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