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In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 91—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz consid...
09/16/2025

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 91—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz considers recurring themes and the responsibilities of storytelling. He writes:

“Storytelling is at its highest form when done in service to the bigger picture that goes beyond one person’s benefit; when the threads intertwine and connect, creating a fabric, a mosaic, a song, an ongoing conversation. At their best, stories are how we understand who we are, where we come from, where we are now, what we value or despise and where we might be going. At their worst, stories are lies we recite to ourselves and others—to hide unpleasant truths, elevate ourselves and bring others down…. Context gives depth to the perspective. Or negates it.”

You can now read the story here: https://alpinist.com/editors-note/responsibilities-of-storytelling/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 91 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/91

Clouds shadow Mt. of the Holy Cross (14,005’) while Old-Man-of-the-Mountain flowers (Tetraneuris grandiflora) soak up Colorado’s sunshine. The flowers bloom only once in their lifetime, about every twelve years. [Photo] Derek Franz
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ALPINIST 91 | AUTUMN 2025 | KOOTENAY | KISHTWAR HIMALAYA | DOLOMITES | YOSEMITE | THE ESSENCE OF MY MIND-F**K Issue 91 f...
09/15/2025

ALPINIST 91 | AUTUMN 2025 | KOOTENAY | KISHTWAR HIMALAYA | DOLOMITES | YOSEMITE | THE ESSENCE OF MY MIND-F**K

Issue 91 features a story and photography by Vitaliy Musiyenko, who writes about growing up as a Ukrainian immigrant struggling with health problems and how he discovered that impossible is just a word, becoming one of today’s top alpinists.

Elsewhere in the magazine, Paula LaRochelle interviews the outspoken Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj, whose career has spanned generations and four Piolet d’Or awards (which he has famously denounced). The two discuss philosophies on climbing and life, considering the ways our passions shape us and our loved ones. Bernadette McDonald breathes new life into a forgotten past—how, in 1975, Wanda Rutkiewicz led a team of Polish women and men to overcome social and economic barriers, stormy weather, internal conflict and self-doubt to stand on the summit of Gasherbrum III, the tallest unclimbed peak at the time.

Meanwhile, Derek Franz considers the responsibilities of storytelling at a time when there is deep mistrust in the media. Max Miller and Abbey Collins share reading recommendations. Franz interviews Soline Kentzel. And Miller pulls a famous shoe out of storage in the Gunks.

Will Gadd shares his secret stash, along with some wisdom, after spending three years quietly developing the best new ice climbs of his life with Kirk Mauthner in Canada. Anton Korsun gets lost in America. Hannah Provost confronts a bear. Collins shares magic with her parents. Akihiro Oishi opens Pandora’s box. Chris Ketchum writes a poem. Christopher Elliott weighs moral responsibilities in the face of fascism. Kapil Bisht visits with Chewang Rinjing Sherpa. Anna Hazlett finds Love on Medlicott Dome. And much, much more.

Find Alpinist 91 on newsstands, in our online store or subscribe at Alpinist.com/91


Alpinist 91 Cover: Looking down at high camp on the southeast ridge of Ama Dablam (6814m) in Nepal. [Photo] Vitaliy Musiyenko

Mountain Standards Gear Review: Katie Griffith tested C.A.M.P.’s ponytail-friendly Ikon Nova helmet over a month of guid...
09/13/2025

Mountain Standards Gear Review: Katie Griffith tested C.A.M.P.’s ponytail-friendly Ikon Nova helmet over a month of guiding rock and alpine climbing in the North Cascades and at Index, Washington. Griffith reports, “With its 18 vent openings and rigid outer shell, the Ikon Nova strikes a balance between comfort and durability that served me well during a demanding month of guiding and climbing…. I did notice that this helmet is a bit less comfortable to wear with a sunhat than other helmets I’ve owned.” The Ikon Nova compares to few other options for anyone with a ponytail and uniquely comes in two sizes.

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/c-a-m-p-s-ikon-nova-helmet-a-ponytail-friendly-workhorse-that-comes-in-two-sizes/

C.A.M.P.’s new Ikon Nova helmet is specifically made to accommodate a ponytail. The helmet comes in two sizes and three colors. [Photo] Kelly Macaluso

helmets

Mountain Standards Gear Review: IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide Ian Fowler tested the La Sportiva TX4 Evos over a three-week t...
08/28/2025

Mountain Standards Gear Review: IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide Ian Fowler tested the La Sportiva TX4 Evos over a three-week trip to the Italian Dolomites. Fowler emphasizes the importance of viewing approach shoes as a safety tool and having the right tool for the right situation. The TX4 Evos excelled in stability, durability, and moving through loose and sketchy alpine terrain.

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/the-la-sportiva-tx4-evo-approach-shoes-stable-footing-that-adds-security-in-risky-terrain/

Mike Lewis smears his way up an approach in the Italian Dolomites. The La Sportiva TX4 Evos blend the strengths of a stable hiking shoe with the stickiness of an approach shoe. [Photo] Ian Fowler

Mountain Standards Review: Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Derek Franz has been wearing the Black Diamond Pro approach shoes on...
08/15/2025

Mountain Standards Review: Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Derek Franz has been wearing the Black Diamond Pro approach shoes on long hikes with rock scrambling in the Colorado Rockies this summer. He writes: “The Technicians served me wonderfully. It wasn’t a given that the low-top suede shoes would…. The shoes have gained my trust in their grip on various rock types and soil, and I’ve been surprised how comfy they are. And they are a reasonable weight, given their sturdiness…. The Black Diamond Technician Pro has been around for several years…. To me, it feels like BD might be hitting their stride with the latest iteration.”

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/black-diamond-technician-pro-approach-shoes-are-built-for-climbers/

Derek Franz wearing the Black Diamond Technician Pro approach shoes on top of Maroon Peak (14,156’) on August 14. [Photo] Derek Franz collection

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The annual Alpinist back issue sale is HAPPENING NOW! All print back issues are just $12 (regular price $25) and digital...
08/12/2025

The annual Alpinist back issue sale is HAPPENING NOW! All print back issues are just $12 (regular price $25) and digital issues are just $6 (regular price $12). Head over to our online store and start stackin’,

Alpinist.com/backissues

Mountain Standards Gear Review: IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide Ryan Huetter tested the Julbo Edge Cover Reactiv sunglasses in...
08/08/2025

Mountain Standards Gear Review: IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide Ryan Huetter tested the Julbo Edge Cover Reactiv sunglasses in the Mont Blanc range recently on glaciers, rock, mountain biking, and trail running. With lenses that adjust to the entire light spectrum, a wide peripheral, and removable side shields and a nose cover, these sunglasses performed well in all environments.

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/julbo-edge-cover-reactiv-sunglasses-peripheral-protection-with-photochromic-adjusting/

The author sports the Julbo Edge Cover Reactiv sunglasses on a mixed-light day while guiding the Aiguille d’Entrèves along the Italy-France border. [Photo] Nathan Welden

Mountain Standards Review: IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide and Mountain Standards Editor Mike Lewis took a pair of the La Spor...
08/01/2025

Mountain Standards Review: IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide and Mountain Standards Editor Mike Lewis took a pair of the La Sportiva Machina Tech Pants to the Italian Dolomites and Austrian Alps for two weeks of alpine climbing and adventuring. The Machina Tech Pants have a slim fit, durable stretchy fabrics, multiple pockets, and an integrated low-profiled waist belt. Mike writes, “The aspect of this pant that really sets it apart from other models was the nifty cinching system that attempts to tackle the fashion industry’s dilemma of a non-belted waist adjustment… I found the Machina Tech’s material to be durable and adequately stretchy to minimize fatigue from continuous high-stepping on long routes.”

Read the review on our website: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/the-la-sportiva-machina-tech-pants-low-profile-adjusting-in-a-skinny-softshell/

Mike Lewis hiking the Geotrail in the La Sportiva Machina Tech Pants near Innsbruck, Austria. [Photo] Uğur Kocataşkin

At the end of June, David Göttler (Germany) and Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein (France), climbed Nanga Parbat (...
07/11/2025

At the end of June, David Göttler (Germany) and Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein (France), climbed Nanga Parbat (8125m) via the Schell Route on the Rupal Face in alpine style and descended by paraglider (Göttler) and skis after down climbing a few hundred meters from the windy summit. The trio launched from Base Camp at 3600 meters on June 21 and summited on June 24 at approximately 3:30 p.m. It was Göttler’s fifth attempt to reach the summit since 2013, including two tries in winter.

Read the story here: https://alpinist.com/newswire/alpine-style-ascent-of-nanga-parbat-with-paraglide-and-ski-descents/

David Göttler paragliding down to base camp on June 24 after summiting Nanga Parbat (8125m). [Photo] Courtesy David Göttler

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 90—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz writes...
06/20/2025

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 90—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz writes about finding stimulating experiences close to home and appreciates our access to public lands. He writes:

“I’m incredibly lucky to live in the heart of the Rocky Mountains…. I have backcountry skiing, ice climbing, Class V+ whitewater, 5.15 sport climbs (yes, plural), sandstone splitters and untold nooks and crannies to explore at the drop of a laptop. Still, I know a part of me to complain: ‘BORING!’ ...

“At the end of the day, though, it’s only lack of imagination that dulls my vision....

“The good news is that we live in a nation with public lands and natural wonders in pretty much every direction. That is, assuming our public lands aren’t auctioned off by the Trump administration, which appears to be a real threat at the time of this writing, when thousands of employees critical for managing these lands are being laid off. In this age of global warming and short-term exploitation of our environment, I say it’s high time for us to better advocate for what we have close to home.”

You can now read the story online: https://alpinist.com/the-sharp-end/close-to-home/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 90 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/90

The author hangs out to assess the moves prior to completing the first free ascent of Roofus Do**us (5.12) in Colorado’s Sawatch Range in 2022. The offwidth crack was first aid climbed by Cam Burns in 1998. [Photo] Mandi Franz
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Issue 90 features a story by Pete Whittaker about a sailing expedition to Greenland with Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll, Sea...
06/17/2025

Issue 90 features a story by Pete Whittaker about a sailing expedition to Greenland with Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll, Sean Warren and Julia Cassou, in which they completed a new route on Greenland’s 1200-meter Mirror Wall. The bold and prolific Japanese climber Keita Kurakami was supposed to be part of the team, but he died of a heart condition weeks before the scheduled departure. Whittaker writes about how they carried on in a style that honored the legacy of their departed friend, naming the route Ryu-shin (5.13d R A2+).

Elsewhere in the magazine, Russian journalist Anna Piunova reflects on Russia’s complicated climbing history and the losses that accompany it. National Geographic photographer Jayce Kolinski writes about meeting a friend named Dustin Sutton who changed their perspective on the big picture. Confronting the realities of climate change, Christian Kiefer grapples with the age-old question: Am I the as***le? That is, is his lifestyle as a climber making climate change worse?

Meanwhile, Derek Franz writes about finding adventure close to home. Paula LaRochelle, Katie Ives and Franz share reading recommendations. Abbey Collins interviews Julia Cassou. And Carolyn Tillie looks into the eccentric expeditions of Aleister Crowley. Fay Manners ventures across fast rivers, through dense forests and up dirty granite to get closer to the unknown. Matt Samet considers the futuristic influence of light-up training boards. Lauren DeLaunay Miller makes the case for truth. Laura Case Larson reflects on her path to copy editing. Rosie Bates shares a poem. Chris Deuto rope solos the Diamond in winter. Sara Frenning analyzes the impacts of Western worldviews and the commercial tourism industry on Nepal. Eliza Nelson recognizes the strength and character of Venezuelan climbing guide Jaseh Munelo. Holly Yu Tung Chen draws inspiration from a painting in Taiwan’s National Palace Museum. And much more.

Alpinist.com/90


Alpinist 90 Cover: Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll confronts the “impassable” corner that had ended his previous Mirror Wall expedition in 2023. Last summer, he proved the dihedral was, in fact, passable. [Photo] Julia Cassou

The 2025 Grit&Rock grant winners have been announced!This year’s grant recipients are taking their skills to high-reache...
06/13/2025

The 2025 Grit&Rock grant winners have been announced!

This year’s grant recipients are taking their skills to high-reaches of our world: from Auyuittuq National Park on Baffin Island to Cerro Steffen on the southern Patagonian Icefield, White Sapphire in the Indian Kishtwar and more.

Read the rest of the story online here: https://alpinist.com/newswire/2025-gritrock-award-recipients-announced/

Shira Biner leading a pitch while her belayer stands on a floating ice sheet. [Photo] Courtesy Grit&Rock, James Klemmensen

✍️ Max Miller

With comments from .prados

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