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Alpinist Magazine, 60 Main Street, PO Box 190, Jeffersonville, VT (2026)

01/02/2026

Alpinist 92—which is now available on newsstand and in our online store—features Tami Knight’s Mountain Profile of the Tiedemann Group in British Columbia’s Coast Mountains. In this essay that appeared with the profile, Peter Croft writes about “the warm deliciousness of being alive” when he traversed from Mt. Waddington to Serra V with Don Serl and Greg Foweraker in 1985: “It all started out so well. The granite was solid and straightforward, and even though the sky was still scowling at us, I started to believe we might just sneak it out before any nastiness happened. That was before we looked down the other side. If there was ever a poster child for the perils of descents, Serra V would be it for me.”

You can now read the essay online: https://alpinist.com/features/1985-waddington-traverse/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 92 for all the goodness: alpinist.com/92.

Peter Croft reaches the summit of Combatant Mountain on the second day of the 1985 traverse with Greg Foweraker and Don Serl. [Photo] Don Serl .serl

12/31/2025

Alpinist 92—which is now available on newsstand and in our online store—features Tami Knight’s Mountain Profile of the Tiedemann Group in British Columbia’s Coast Mountains. In this essay that appeared with the profile, Michael Down writes about attempting to snag the second ascent of Serra V with John Howe. It was twenty-one years after the peak’s first ascent in 1964, but that didn’t make the difficulties much easier. They turned around upon finding “rotten and decomposed rock” on their intended route—only to discover more frustrations at their camp.

You can now read the essay online: https://alpinist.com/features/1985-the-race-for-serra-v/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 92 for all the goodness: alpinist.com/92.

John Howe savors a can of beer, one of only a few items spared by the hungry animal that looted his and Down’s camp while they were climbing. [Photo] Michael Down

12/30/2025

Alpinist 92—which is now available on newsstand and in our online store—features Tami Knight’s Mountain Profile of the Tiedemann Group in British Columbia’s Coast Mountains. In this essay that appeared with the profile, Glenn Woodsworth writes about the first ascent of Serra V in 1964. Woodsworth writes:

“During the next day or so of bad weather, we learned that Roy was also flying a strong party into the Rainy K**b area, a quartet of Canadians and Brits who hoped to climb the unclimbed northwest ridge of Mt. Waddington and Serra V. We knew these folks by reputation, but we had only climbed with one of them. They were certainly more confident than we were, and they said, ‘You guys are strong scramblers and hill walkers, but you are out of your depth in this range. Leave the real mountains to real mountaineers.’ We didn’t say much; what was there to say? But inwardly, I felt that there was some truth to the banter. I was certain of Dick’s abilities, but I was uncertain as to mine. Years later I learned that Dick was uncertain about his abilities but had confidence in mine.”

You can now read the essay online: https://alpinist.com/features/1964-serra-v/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 92 for all the goodness: alpinist.com/92.

The Radiant Glacier headwall in 1964. [Photo] Glenn Woodsworth

12/29/2025

Mountain Standards Gear Review: IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide Paul Rachele tested Black Diamond’s Rock Blitz 15 climbing pack this summer and autumn in the Tetons of Wyoming and on the granite and quartzite of the East Coast. Of the pack, Rachele says, “This little pack has earned a place in my kit, not because it’s flawless, but because it allows me to climb without thinking about my pack—and in the end, that might be the best standard of all.”

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/black-diamonds-rock-blitz-15-small-simple-durable-for-on-route-climbing/

Black Diamond’s Rock Blitz 15 leans back and takes a break with the Wind River Range and Continental Divide of Wyoming in the background. [Photo] Paul
Rachele.

12/28/2025

Year in Review: Featured books from 2025

This year, Sonnie Trotter brought us back to 2006, Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish), as his fingers flexed against steep granite on the first free ascent of Cobra Crack. We stood next to Mimi Zieman in a whiteout as she waited for her teammates on Chomolungma (Everest) in 1988. Lisa Roderick gave us an intimate look at Denali’s Kahiltna Basecamp. These stories represent a small piece of everything Alpinist editors and contributors read in 2025; may they bring you as much inspiration, curiosity and humor as they did us.

You can now read the reviews online here: https://alpinist.com/features/off-the-shelf-2025-alpinists-year-in-reading/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 92 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/92

12/24/2025

Mountain Standards Gear Review: AMGA certified rock guide Ben Lim tested toprope solo gear made by Avant Climbing Innovations on a recent climbing trip that included Squamish, Smith Rock, Red Rocks, Portland, and the Easter Sierra. Says Ben about the three items tested: “Each Avant product I tested solved a problem with simple, thoughtful design.”

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/toprope-soloing-made-easier-and-safer-with-avants-tr-solo-kit/

AMGA certified rock guide Ben Lim wears Avant Climbing Innovations’ Neck Lanyard to drag along progress capture devices as he top-ropes solos the 10-pitch classic, The Main Line in Pine Creek, California. [Photo] Ben Lim

12/22/2025

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 92—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz writes of his experience climbing in the Swiss Alps with The North Face team last September and learning about everything that went into developing the Advanced Mountain Kit. He writes:

“It was enlightening to witness every aspect of TNF’s product development and deployment in the field up close and personal, and not just the product side, but also how elite teams plan and prepare for expeditions. Once we were in Zermatt, the only detail that couldn’t be accounted for, it seemed, was the weather….

“I got to glimpse the top of a mountain—not just the Lagginhorn but another view that is much more elusive: a bubble in which so many people from different backgrounds get along seamlessly. Flourish, even. Mountains help me believe there is hope for this world, because up here, there are innumerable smart, kind, innovative souls with plenty of grit, and we are all connected in various ways.”

You can now read the story online: https://alpinist.com/features/high-places/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 92 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/92

1) Looking up from a belay station atop the col where the mixed climbing begins on the Breithorn Half Traverse above Zermatt, Switzerland. [Photo] Derek Franz

2) Sunrise in the Swiss Alps, overlooking the village of Saas-Fee from the flanks of the Lagginhorn. [Photo] Derek Franz
8000

12/19/2025

ALPINIST 92 | WINTER 2025-26 | WADDINGTON RANGE | KARAKORAM | ALPS | ROCKY MOUNTAINS | WHATEVER THE SKY THROWS AT YOU

Issue 92 features a Mountain Profile by Tami Knight. Tucked deep within British Columbia’s Coast Mountains, the Tiedemann Group is far less famous than its taller neighbor to the west, Mt. Waddington, but its frozen couloirs and snow-speckled rock faces tell a captivating story of their own. The range remains almost as remote today as it was a hundred years ago when Don and Phyllis Munday first visited. Tami Knight shares its lesser-known history, from the early days of hellacious approaches and fresh summits to modern tales of helicopter access and bold new lines. All tied up in various ways with Serra V, the last major summit to be reached in the group, Glenn Woodsworth, Michael Down, Peter Croft and Ethan Berman detail their own memories and misadventures.

Elsewhere in the magazine, Diana Boyer interviews top alpinists from around the world who’ve been using paragliders to realize new possibilities, flying to and from remote peaks and off of 8000-meter summits and desert towers. But “para-alpinism” comes with a new set of risks and questions. August Franzen writes of his expedition to the summit of Yashkuk Sar I (6667m) with Dane Steadman and Cody Winckler last year, which also marked a journey through layers of complex grief. After losing his girlfriend in a climbing accident in 2020, and then his close friend Brian Teale in 2022, Franzen questioned why he still climbed at all.

Meanwhile, Derek Franz recounts special moments from his trip to Switzerland with The North Face team. Franz, Abbey Collins and Andrew Szalay share reading recommendations.

Twins Marek and Petr Disman share a unique partnership that sometimes gets them in trouble. Leath Tonino gazes into plein air and Erin Connery imagines a culture clash on private property. Ryleigh Norgrove celebrates Kelsey Gray’s contributions to Alaska climbing. Henry Barber (almost) gets caught in a bad way + more.

Find Alpinist 92 on newsstands, in our online store or subscribe at Alpinist.com/92

12/18/2025

Mountain Standards Gear Review: The C.A.M.P. Corsa Alpine Ice Axe comes in 45, 55, and 65cm lengths, has a curved shaft, is primarily made for snow climbing, is lightweight, and can be enhanced with a wrist leash and a Trigger Fast Lock pinky rest. IFMGA Mountain Guides Mike Lewis and Ben Markhart put this axe to the test in the European Alps, the North Cascades, and in the Colorado Rockies.

Read the review here: https://alpinist.com/mountain-standards/securely-climbing-snow-with-c-a-m-p-s-corsa-alpine-ice-axe/

Mike Lewis climbs a steep section at the top of the Tyndall Glacier in Rocky Mountain National Park. The curved yellow-shafted Corsa Alpine sinks into the hard snow, making a secure handhold for upward progress. The black Trigger Fast Lock pinky rest keeps the hand from slamming into the snow or ice again and again and helps in making an aggressive swing. [Photo] Mike Lewis

iceaxes iceaxeski campcorsaalpine theclimbinglife alpinistmountainstandards

12/10/2025

In this story from Alpinist 91, Will Gadd shares the details of how he and Kirk Mauthner uncovered some of the best ice climbs of their lives close to their homes in Canada. The pair spent three years snowmobiling into the Kootenays, swinging tools into steep ice and skiing through complex avalanche terrain. Through it all, Gadd considered not just the quality of the climbing, but how he assesses risk in dangerous environments. He writes: “I still struggle with the basic question: Is it worth it? I don’t honestly know. But I do know that the answer has to be not just yes, but “F**k yes!” for it to be worthwhile.”

You can now read the story online: https://alpinist.com/features/the-wall-of-walls/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 91 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/91

Gadd leads the way up a typical pitch on the Wall of Walls. [Photo] Will Gadd Collection

09/16/2025

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 91—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz considers recurring themes and the responsibilities of storytelling. He writes:

“Storytelling is at its highest form when done in service to the bigger picture that goes beyond one person’s benefit; when the threads intertwine and connect, creating a fabric, a mosaic, a song, an ongoing conversation. At their best, stories are how we understand who we are, where we come from, where we are now, what we value or despise and where we might be going. At their worst, stories are lies we recite to ourselves and others—to hide unpleasant truths, elevate ourselves and bring others down…. Context gives depth to the perspective. Or negates it.”

You can now read the story here: https://alpinist.com/editors-note/responsibilities-of-storytelling/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 91 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/91

Clouds shadow Mt. of the Holy Cross (14,005’) while Old-Man-of-the-Mountain flowers (Tetraneuris grandiflora) soak up Colorado’s sunshine. The flowers bloom only once in their lifetime, about every twelve years. [Photo] Derek Franz
8000

09/15/2025

ALPINIST 91 | AUTUMN 2025 | KOOTENAY | KISHTWAR HIMALAYA | DOLOMITES | YOSEMITE | THE ESSENCE OF MY MIND-F**K

Issue 91 features a story and photography by Vitaliy Musiyenko, who writes about growing up as a Ukrainian immigrant struggling with health problems and how he discovered that impossible is just a word, becoming one of today’s top alpinists.

Elsewhere in the magazine, Paula LaRochelle interviews the outspoken Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj, whose career has spanned generations and four Piolet d’Or awards (which he has famously denounced). The two discuss philosophies on climbing and life, considering the ways our passions shape us and our loved ones. Bernadette McDonald breathes new life into a forgotten past—how, in 1975, Wanda Rutkiewicz led a team of Polish women and men to overcome social and economic barriers, stormy weather, internal conflict and self-doubt to stand on the summit of Gasherbrum III, the tallest unclimbed peak at the time.

Meanwhile, Derek Franz considers the responsibilities of storytelling at a time when there is deep mistrust in the media. Max Miller and Abbey Collins share reading recommendations. Franz interviews Soline Kentzel. And Miller pulls a famous shoe out of storage in the Gunks.

Will Gadd shares his secret stash, along with some wisdom, after spending three years quietly developing the best new ice climbs of his life with Kirk Mauthner in Canada. Anton Korsun gets lost in America. Hannah Provost confronts a bear. Collins shares magic with her parents. Akihiro Oishi opens Pandora’s box. Chris Ketchum writes a poem. Christopher Elliott weighs moral responsibilities in the face of fascism. Kapil Bisht visits with Chewang Rinjing Sherpa. Anna Hazlett finds Love on Medlicott Dome. And much, much more.

Find Alpinist 91 on newsstands, in our online store or subscribe at Alpinist.com/91

Alpinist 91 Cover: Looking down at high camp on the southeast ridge of Ama Dablam (6814m) in Nepal. [Photo] Vitaliy Musiyenko

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