Richard Shork

Richard Shork Contact information, map and directions, contact form, opening hours, services, ratings, photos, videos and announcements from Richard Shork, Digital creator, 465 Speedwell Forge Road, Lititz, PA.

Am I being scammed, or is this actually required for safety? 😩🔧I bought a hybrid car that was previously owned by an old...
06/10/2026

Am I being scammed, or is this actually required for safety? 😩🔧

I bought a hybrid car that was previously owned by an older person, so I’m guessing the brakes barely got used because of regen braking. During a safety appointment in Ontario, the mechanic told me I need either new rotors or a full resurfacing job to pass safety — and quoted me $500.

I told him I’d do it myself before bringing it back for reinspection, but now I’m trying to figure out what my best move is.

Is $500 to resurface rotors for safety normal, or does that sound ridiculous?

Can I clean up the rust myself by driving and braking hard in neutral a few times, since the car brakes perfectly smooth when using the actual brakes and not regen?

New rotors from RockAuto would be around $200, so I’m wondering if replacing them makes more sense than paying for resurfacing. Could I resurface them myself with a Scotch-Brite pad, sanding wheel, or something similar, or is that a bad idea without a lathe?

PSA: don’t reuse CV boot clamps, and don’t trust zip ties just because the part “doesn’t move.” 😭🔧I changed my inner CV ...
06/10/2026

PSA: don’t reuse CV boot clamps, and don’t trust zip ties just because the part “doesn’t move.” 😭🔧

I changed my inner CV boots, but on the outer side, the CV joint would not come out and I didn’t want to risk breaking it. Since the boot wasn’t split, cracked, or dry, I just changed the grease and reused the boot. Problem was, I didn’t have the right clamps, so I reused one clamp I carefully removed on one side and used a big zip tie on the other.

Well… neither worked. Grease came out both ways.

I started hearing a slight noise over bumps, so I checked it out, and now I’m just hoping the CV joint isn’t already damaged. It didn’t sound like metal-on-metal yet, more like plastic-on-plastic, so I’m hoping there’s still enough grease inside. I’m pulling it apart next week to see what’s really going on.

And then on the steering rack, I ordered the wrong clamp and followed some YouTube mechanic advice saying zip ties were fine because “it doesn’t move anyway.” Well, both zip ties came loose, the boot slipped off a bit, and I lost some grease there too. Now I’m hoping no grit got into the rack and pinion.

How did I manage to learn the same lesson twice in one front-end job?

Has anyone else had zip ties or reused clamps fail this fast?

I’ve only driven maybe 500 miles since replacing almost everything up front, and I’m not driving it again until I get the right parts. Also, if anyone has a trick for getting the outer CV joint out — the style with the big bearing balls that have to come out one by one — I would seriously appreciate it.

Caliper bolt is not fully coming out, and this brake job is starting to test my patience. 😩🔧The one on the right gave me...
06/10/2026

Caliper bolt is not fully coming out, and this brake job is starting to test my patience. 😩🔧

The one on the right gave me the same problem, but I was able to get it out by loosening it while pushing it out with a flathead. I’ve been trying the same thing on this one, but it’s taking way longer than expected. The other one came out much faster, so now I’m wondering what I’m missing here.

Is there a trick to getting a stubborn caliper bolt to back out when it’s just not wanting to release?

Could it be hung up on the threads, stuck in the slide pin, or binding against something?

I really don’t want to strip it, snap it, or turn a simple brake job into another disaster. Anyone have tips before I keep fighting this thing?

Do I have to cut this bolt, or is there another way out of this mess? 😩🔧I’m working on a 2005 Volvo S40, and this contro...
06/10/2026

Do I have to cut this bolt, or is there another way out of this mess? 😩🔧

I’m working on a 2005 Volvo S40, and this control arm bolt is giving me a headache. The bolt seems to be free-spinning, the control arm bushing is spinning with it, and now the head is starting to round off too.

At this point, I’m wondering if cutting it is my only option.

If I do cut the bolt, will the remaining piece come out fairly easily, or am I about to create an even bigger problem?

Is there a better trick for dealing with a spinning bushing/bolt situation before I commit to cutting? Anyone dealt with this on a Volvo S40 before?

Bolt connecting the strut to the knuckle is completely stuck, and I’m officially running out of patience. 😩🔧I’m replacin...
06/10/2026

Bolt connecting the strut to the knuckle is completely stuck, and I’m officially running out of patience. 😩🔧

I’m replacing the knuckle, hub, and bearing on the front driver’s side of my 2011 Hyundai Sonata, and of course the very last bolt I need to remove is the one that refuses to move. The bolt above it came out after about 15–20 hammer smacks, but this one has laughed at PB Blaster, hammering, the impact wrench, a breaker bar, and about three hours of my life.

It doesn’t spin with the impact at all, and I haven’t used heat yet because I was really trying to avoid buying a torch unless that’s the only real way forward.

Is heat the next move here, or is there another trick I should try before I go buy a torch?

Could this bolt be seized into the sleeve/knuckle badly enough that cutting or drilling is the only option?

I’m happy to provide more photos if needed, but right now I’m just trying not to turn this final bolt into the reason the whole job stalls out. What would you try next?

Tie rod question on my 2004 Volvo S60. 😬🔧Yesterday I did some work on my car and replaced the tie rods. While I was in t...
06/10/2026

Tie rod question on my 2004 Volvo S60. 😬🔧

Yesterday I did some work on my car and replaced the tie rods. While I was in there, I noticed these gear-looking teeth going into the car, and now I’m wondering if what I’m seeing is normal or if I should be worried.

Does this look okay, or is something exposed that shouldn’t be?

Are those teeth part of the steering rack, and should there be a boot or cover protecting them?

I’d rather catch a problem now before I put everything back together and drive it like nothing happened. Has anyone seen this on a Volvo S60 before?

Please help — my 2009 Honda Pilot EX-L 3.5L V6 made a loud banging noise while I was backing out of the driveway, and th...
06/10/2026

Please help — my 2009 Honda Pilot EX-L 3.5L V6 made a loud banging noise while I was backing out of the driveway, and then it started shaking violently when I pulled back in. 😭🔧

Now I’m sitting here wondering how bad this really is, because that did not feel like a small “ignore it and hope it goes away” kind of problem.

What could cause a loud bang followed by violent shaking like that?

Could it be something with the axle, engine mount, transmission, suspension, or did something serious just let go?

I’m honestly nervous to drive it now. Has anyone had a Honda Pilot do something like this before, and is this one of those “tow it, don’t drive it” situations?

Do I actually have to replace this, or is it one of those cracks that looks worse than it is? 😬🔧This is on a 2019 Ford R...
06/10/2026

Do I actually have to replace this, or is it one of those cracks that looks worse than it is? 😬🔧

This is on a 2019 Ford Ranger 2.3L I4 EcoBoost, and I noticed this part is cracked. Now I’m trying to figure out if it really matters or if I’m about to spend money on something that isn’t urgent.

Is this something that can cause problems if I leave it alone?

Could it lead to a leak, boost/vacuum issue, overheating, or some other headache down the road?

I don’t want to ignore it if it’s important, but I also don’t want to replace parts for no reason. Anyone know if this needs to be fixed right away or if it’s okay to monitor it?

Keeps spinning when I try to tighten it back on, and now I’m wondering if I’m about to make a bad idea worse. 😭🔧This is ...
06/10/2026

Keeps spinning when I try to tighten it back on, and now I’m wondering if I’m about to make a bad idea worse. 😭🔧

This is on the lower control arm to steering knuckle on an ’06 Altima. The nut/bolt just keeps spinning instead of tightening down like it’s supposed to.

Would welding the nut onto the bolt even be safe here, or is that a terrible idea for something that needs to move properly?

Is this a stripped bolt, bad ball joint/stud, damaged threads, or something else going on?

I really don’t want to rig something that could fail on the suspension, but I’m stuck staring at it wondering what the proper fix is. Anyone dealt with this before?

I hope the previous owner who reused the M14 caliper bolts during a brake job sleeps with a warm pillow every night for ...
06/10/2026

I hope the previous owner who reused the M14 caliper bolts during a brake job sleeps with a warm pillow every night for the next 5 years. 😭🔧

Steel bolts into an aluminum knuckle… what could possibly go wrong, right? Galvanic corrosion happens, and then you end up with this nightmare. This is exactly why you do NOT reuse hardware like that.

What was supposed to be a simple rear brake job turned into my LS sitting on jackstands for two weeks, the HOA complaining, extractor kits failing, and one extractor breaking off inside the broken bolt that was already stuck inside the knuckle. Ever tried drilling through hardened steel with cobalt bits? Even with carbide, it was absolutely miserable.

The welder couldn’t get it out either because the bolt basically started falling apart anytime torque was applied.

So I ended up drilling the whole thing out and retapping the knuckle because I really did not feel like replacing the entire setup.

How does one reused bolt turn a basic brake job into a two-week battle for your sanity?

And why do people reuse critical hardware like this when the consequences are this bad?

This ended up costing me more money and mental energy than I want to admit. After this, I don’t think I’m touching any hardware on this car again without a gallon of PB Blaster and a propane torch nearby.

Address

465 Speedwell Forge Road
Lititz, PA
17543

Telephone

+12365236522

Website

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Richard Shork posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Shortcuts

Share

Category