Plumbing Electrician, 933W 5th Street, Los Angeles, CA (2026)

01/09/2026

🚨 Major red flag in the bathroom: Black mold + rot exposed in bathtub corner after tile failure, plus copper pipe showing through crumbling wall. Long-term water intrusion behind the surround — time for serious demo, mold remediation, and waterproof rebuild with cement board + membrane. Don't ignore this one — health hazard alert! Calling in pros. Anyone dealt with this nightmare?

01/09/2026

🚨 Major fire hazard alert: Found this charred, melted outlet in the wall — loose wires, arcing damage, and burnt plastic everywhere. Shut off the breaker immediately and called an electrician. Don't mess with this yourself unless you're licensed! Loose connections = one of the top causes of house fires. Check your outlets people!

01/09/2026

🚨 Old Gemini furnace gas supply valve found shut off (circled) — handle perpendicular = OFF. Turned it off? No gas smell, so I reopened it, relit the pilot, and got heat back! But previous yellow flames mean it needs professional cleaning/adjustment ASAP for safety. Lesson: Always check this valve first when no heat!

01/09/2026

The photo shows a classic **Milbank meter-main combo** (meter socket integrated with an emergency/service disconnect breaker enclosure), common in residential setups, especially in the Northeast/Midwest (e.g., New York area based on siding style and typical installs). The red circle highlights the **analog (mechanical) electric meter** — the round glass-domed device with spinning disc and dials, mounted in the upper section of the gray NEMA 3R enclosure.

This is a **Milbank meter-main** (likely U5000-series or similar, ringless, with horn bypass option implied by the setup), where the meter sits above the main breaker/disconnect (labeled "EMERGENCY DISCONNECT SERVICE DISCONNECT" or similar, per NEC 2020+ requirements in many jurisdictions).

# # # Why this might be "the problem" (or why it's circled)
- **Analog meter in 2026**: Many utilities have fully transitioned to **digital/smart meters** (AMI/AMR) for remote reading, time-of-use billing, outage detection, and efficiency. Analog meters are increasingly rare, as they're manual-read (utility worker visits monthly), less accurate over time (worn mechanisms can under-register), and lack smart features. Your utility may flag this as outdated, requiring replacement during upgrades, service changes, or routine swaps. Some areas still allow analogs if functional, but they're phasing out fast.
- **Potential issues**:
- If the meter is old (20–40+ years), it could be inaccurate, failing (slow spin, stuck dials), or non-compliant with modern utility standards.
- The enclosure shows weathering (graying, possible corrosion), typical for outdoor units in humid/cold climates — check for rust, water intrusion, or loose connections.
- NEC 2020+ (adopted widely by now) mandates an outdoor **emergency disconnect** for dwellings (to allow first responders quick shutoff without utility involvement). This Milbank combo satisfies that (breaker acts as disconnect), but if your service is pre-2020, it might need verification/upgrade for labeling ("EMERGENCY DISCONNECT, SERVICE DISCONNECT") or grounding.
- No obvious major hazards visible (no burnt spots, loose wires), but if you're experiencing flickering lights, high bills, or utility notices, the analog meter or connections could be culprits.

**Common in older homes**: This setup is solid and code-compliant when installed (often 1990s–2010s), but utilities push smart meter swaps for better data/management.

# # # Step-by-step fix (usually utility-handled, but coordinate with electrician if needed!)
**Safety first:** Never tamper with the meter or enclosure yourself — it's utility property up to the load-side lugs. Tampering = felony in most places.

1. **Contact your utility** (e.g., ConEd, National Grid, PSEG in NY area): Report any issues (inaccurate billing, no power, etc.) or ask about upgrade program. Many offer **free smart meter installation** as part of grid modernization (remote read, no estimated bills, detect theft/outages faster).
2. **Schedule the swap**:
- Utility tech pulls the old analog meter (de-energizes service briefly).
- Installs digital/smart meter (same socket, plug-and-play for most Milbank bases).
- Tests and reseals.
- Process takes 15–60 min; power out ~5–30 min.
3. **If enclosure/meter-main needs work** (rare, but if corroded/loose jaws):
- Licensed electrician inspects load-side (your wires): Check lugs tight (torque to spec), no arcing signs.
- Replace socket if jaws damaged (common failure: loose stabs cause heat/arcing).
- Upgrade whole combo if adding EV charger/solar (e.g., to 200A+ with dual lugs).
- Cost: $500–$1500+ for electrician work; utility meter swap usually free.
4. **Post-upgrade**:
- Monitor bills (smart meters often show more accurate/granular usage).
- Enable online portal for real-time monitoring.
- If adding solar/net metering, smart meter required anyway.
5. **Prevention**:
- Annual visual check (no rust, secure seals).
- If high usage, verify no faults (e.g., bad neutral).

Here are examples of **analog vs. digital/smart meters** in similar Milbank enclosures (old spinning disc vs. modern LCD/digital):

And a typical **Milbank meter-main combo** with emergency disconnect label (gray enclosure, breaker below meter):

"Classic Milbank meter-main combo on a Northeast home — red circle around the old-school analog spinning-disc meter (still kicking in 2026!). Utility probably wants this swapped to a smart/digital meter for remote reading and accuracy. Enclosure looks weathered but solid; emergency disconnect label meets NEC 2020+. Anyone had their utility force an upgrade lately? No major issues visible, but time for modernization? ⚡📊 "

If you're getting notices from the utility, high bills, or intermittent power, definitely call them first — the analog meter might be the root cause. Stay safe and powered! 🔌

01/09/2026

Outdoor Jutter F525 meter-main disconnect — red circle shows the load-side lugs where large SE cables are exiting. Looks like double-lugging (multiple conductors under single lugs) which is a big NEC no-no unless lugs are specifically rated for 2 wires. Classic fire/overheat hazard from poor contact/loose connections over time. Needs pro fix with dual-rated lugs, Polaris taps, or full upgrade. Anyone seen this brand before? Utility has to pull meter first — stay safe out there! ⚡🚫 "
If your power flickers, lights dim unevenly, or you smell burning plastic near the meter, shut off what you can and call pros/utility immediately — lost neutral situations escalate fast. Better fixed now than during a storm! Stay powered safely. 🔌

The photo shows an outdoor meter-main combo (meter socket with integrated disconnect/breaker, likely a Jutter brand F525 model based on the label) mounted on a brick exterior wall. This is a common setup for residential services (probably 200A or similar), where the utility meter sits above or integrated, and a main breaker/disconnect is in the same enclosure or adjacent.
The red circle highlights the load-side terminals (bottom section after the meter and breaker), where the service entrance cables (large black SEU or similar cables with concentric neutral) exit downward through a gray PVC conduit ni**le. The key issue is visible in the circled area:
Multiple large conductors (hots and neutral) are connected to what appears to be a single set of lugs per phase/neutral, but the way the cables loop and connect suggests double-lugging or improper multi-conductor termination on terminals not rated for it.
Standard lugs in most meter-mains/disconnects are designed for one conductor per lug unless explicitly marked/listed for two (e.g., "(2) 3/0-300kcmil CU/AL" stamped on the lug).
Here, the thick black cables (likely feeding the house panel) seem crammed or doubled under the lugs, with the neutral possibly shared or improperly terminated, plus extra wires (green ground?) visible.
Why this is a problem (safety/code violation)
Double-lugging / double-tapping on non-rated terminals violates NEC 110.14(A) and 408.41 — terminals must be used only as listed/identified. Most standard lugs are for one wire; forcing two causes poor contact, high resistance, overheating, arcing, loose connections over time (thermal cycling), and fire risk.
In service equipment like this (where neutral is bonded to ground), a bad neutral connection is especially dangerous — can cause "lost neutral" → overvoltage on 120V legs → fried appliances, shocks, or fires.
Visible crowding, looped cables, and potential corrosion/dirt increase hazards. This setup may have been a DIY hack to feed multiple panels/subfeeds without proper equipment (e.g., no dual-lug rated meter-main or add-on distribution block).
Common in older upgrades or when adding subpanels/EV chargers/solar without rerunning service.
Step-by-step fix (HIGH VOLTAGE — utility side & live until meter pulled. Call licensed electrician + utility company! DIY not recommended unless qualified — risk of shock, arc flash, or voiding insurance.)
Safety first — Contact your utility to schedule a meter pull (de-energize service). Do NOT work live. Turn off main breaker if accessible, but line-side remains hot.
Inspect & diagnose:
Confirm lug ratings (look for stamping like "2 wires" or specific dual-conductor range).
Check for overheating signs (blackened/discolored lugs, melted insulation).
Verify if this is feeding one panel or split (e.g., house + detached structure).
Proper repair options (electrician will choose based on needs):
Replace lugs with factory-approved dual-rated lugs if available for this model (some Jutter/Milbank/Eaton allow swaps).
Install Polaris/Insulated multi-tap connectors or power distribution blocks in an added junction gutter/box for clean multi-feeds.
Upgrade to a meter-main with built-in dual lugs or "thru-lugs" (common for 320/400A class to feed two 200A panels).
If feeding multiple structures, add a main disconnect with double-lug capability right after meter, then run separate feeders.
Torque all connections to spec (use torque wrench — critical!).
Additional checks:
Ensure neutral/ground bonding is only at this first disconnect (not downstream panels).
Add/maintain proper grounding electrode conductor (to rods/plates).
Leak test? No — but check for water intrusion in enclosure.
After fix — Have utility reinstall meter, test voltage/drop, monitor for heat.
Cost: $500–$2000+ depending on parts/upgrade scope. Often requires permit/inspection.

01/09/2026

Old furnace fan/limit switch area — red circle shows a classic bad wire nut connection. Melted plastic, heat damage, and loose wires = intermittent heat / open limit faults. Fixed by cutting back damaged wire, new wire nut (or WAGO), and checking the rest. Common in 30+ year old systems!"
If the furnace still won't run properly after this, the limit switch itself may be faulty (test continuity with a multimeter — should read near 0Ω when cool), or there's an underlying issue (dirty filter, blocked vents, bad blower motor, cracked heat exchanger). In that case, definitely get a pro in — safety devices like this aren't worth gambling on in January! Stay warm. 🔥

01/08/2026

Plumbing Fail: The circled corrugated, flexible drain hose under the sink is a major code violation and clog magnet! The ridges easily trap hair and grease, leading to poor drainage. The fix is to replace this flexible connector with smooth, rigid PVC or ABS P-trap components that are cut and fitted properly. Always use standard smooth pipe for permanent drainage to prevent recurrent clogs and ensure proper flow.

01/08/2026

Mid-repair on a leaking or malfunctioning shower valve. The handle and old cartridge have been removed, exposing the brass valve body. The circled area shows mineral scale buildup, which needs to be thoroughly cleaned before installing the new cartridge. The fix requires an exact replacement cartridge (matching the valve brand) and ensuring the new part is correctly oriented and sealed to restore proper flow and temperature control. Always turn off the water supply before attempting this!

01/08/2026

Preparing for final plumbing connections on a new electric tankless or point-of-use water heater. The circled ports are the Cold Inlet and Hot Outlet. The fix involves connecting the home's water lines using proper fittings (often dielectric unions or flexible connectors) and ensuring isolation valves are installed for future service. CRITICAL: Always fill the unit completely with water and purge all air before restoring electrical power to prevent burning out the heating elements!

01/08/2026

Emergency Home Hazard: Ice on the Gas Meter! ❄️ This massive buildup of ice on the natural gas meter and regulator is a serious safety risk. The water source (likely a nearby condensate drain or roof runoff) is spraying or dripping onto the equipment. DO NOT attempt to remove this ice yourself—you risk damaging the meter and causing a gas leak. Call your local gas utility immediately to have them safely inspect and clear the ice, and then find and divert the water source away from the gas line and foundation.

01/08/2026

Critical Warning Sign: Frozen Pipe! 🥶 This is a likely condensate drain line from a high-efficiency furnace or boiler. The icicle indicates water is freezing at the exit, which means the pipe is at high risk of blocking completely. A blocked condensate drain will shut down your heating system! Immediate action needed: Thaw the blockage with a hairdryer or warm water, then install pipe insulation and potentially heat trace cable on the exposed section to prevent a system shutdown during cold weather.

01/08/2026

A Gree ducted indoor HVAC unit suspended from a concrete ceiling, likely for a commercial or multi-zone residential installation. The unit is connected to metal ductwork. The orange circle highlights the refrigerant line connections and service valves, which are critical for charging and maintaining the unit.
🔧 Explanation of Diagnosis and Fixing
The circled components are the Refrigerant Line Service Valves and connection points. These are essential during installation and for any future maintenance or repair involving the refrigerant circuit.
1. Identifying the Components
* Gree Indoor Unit: This unit (the large silver box) contains the cooling coil, fan, and necessary controls to condition the air and push it through the attached ductwork.
* Refrigerant Line Service Valves (Circled): These are brass/metal valves used to:
* Connect the copper refrigerant lines that run to the outdoor unit.
* Isolate the indoor unit for service.
* Allow technicians to attach gauges and vacuum pumps during initial system commissioning or when adding/recovering refrigerant (known as "charging" the system).
2. Common Problems and Diagnosis
Issues with this type of unit typically fall into a few categories:
| Symptom | Component Likely Affected | Possible Fixes |
|---|---|---|
| Unit doesn't cool/heat | Refrigerant Circuit (Near Circled Area) | Check for low refrigerant (leaks). A technician would use the circled service ports to measure pressure and potentially add refrigerant. Leaks are often found at the connection flares (near the circle). |
| Airflow is poor/weak | Fan/Ductwork | Check the fan motor, fan wheel, and filter (usually inside the unit). Inspect duct connections for blockages or leaks (visible duct connection here looks secure). |
| Unit is leaking water | Drain Pan/Condensate Pump | The condensate drain line (not circled) is blocked, causing water to overflow the internal drain pan. Fix requires clearing the clog, often using a wet/dry vacuum or compressed air. |
| Error Code on Thermostat | Control Board/Sensor | Requires consulting the Gree service manual for the specific error code to identify a sensor failure, communication issue, or control board problem. |
3. General Steps for Repair (by a Professional)
* Safety First: Shut off the electrical power to both the indoor and outdoor units at the breaker.
* Access: Open the service panel on the indoor unit (not visible from this angle, usually on the bottom or side).
* Diagnosis:
* If a refrigerant issue is suspected, a technician uses the circled service valves to connect gauges and perform pressure checks. If a leak is confirmed, the system must be repaired (often by re-flaring a faulty connection) and then evacuated and recharged.
* If an electrical/control issue is suspected, the technician would check wiring, control board lights, and sensor readings.
* Repair/Replacement: Replace faulty components like the fan motor, control board, or refrigerant lines as needed.
* Re-Commissioning: Restore power and test the unit's operation, monitoring pressures, temperatures, and current draw to ensure it is running within manufacturer specifications.
Due to the complex refrigerant circuits and electrical components, all repairs should be handled by a certified HVAC technician.
Would you like me to search for the technical specifications or manuals for a Gree ducted indoor unit?

Plumbing Electrician

01/09/2026

01/09/2026

01/09/2026

01/09/2026

01/09/2026

01/09/2026

01/08/2026

01/08/2026

01/08/2026

01/08/2026

01/08/2026

01/08/2026

Address

Website

Alerts

Shortcuts

Share

Category