Chhit Chhay Reel

Chhit Chhay Reel “Learn as if you will live forever, live like you will die tomorrow.” 😘😍

I‘m planning on changing the tile in my bathroom . the hallway and bathroom share the same tiles . I need to cut the til...
09/07/2026

I‘m planning on changing the tile in my bathroom . the hallway and bathroom share the same tiles . I need to cut the tile underneath the bathroom door so I can leave the hallway tile as is and change the bathroom tile . I’m not sure how to go about this . I was thinking of using my 4 inch grinder with a carbide or diamond disc but I’m not sure . I’m worried about damaging the hallway part of the tile and also worried about it looking sloppy by using the grinder without any kind of guide . Any suggestions ?

Is this acceptable work for kitchen remodel
09/07/2026

Is this acceptable work for kitchen remodel

Hello, I've been laying down the hardwood floors in my house and have run into an issue where the planks in the hallway ...
09/07/2026

Hello, I've been laying down the hardwood floors in my house and have run into an issue where the planks in the hallway have a 1cm gap between them and the ones that are coming out of the living room. For context, I started the floor by laying out the kitchen and continued into the living room from the kitchen. Once both rooms were done I starter doing the hallway continuing from where some planks in the kitchen ran into the hallway. As I was laying doing the floor and I approached some planks that were coming out of the living room I noticed a 1cm gap. It struck me as odd because I had measured to make sure the planks in the hallway would like up perfectly with what was coming out of the the other rooms. Now I have this gap and I just don't know what to do to close it. This is my first time laying down hardwood floors and have done my due diligence. I just cannot afford to pull up and entire room or an excessive amount of wood.

One solution I thought about what cutting the planks sticking out of the rooms. Putting down one long piece perpendicular to the planks. This would allow me to continue with what is already out down and would eliminate the issue of alignment between the two rooms.

Please let me know what you think and what can be done

So my parents have been wanting to extend this gate to the post on the right for awhile and fix this one that sags when ...
09/07/2026

So my parents have been wanting to extend this gate to the post on the right for awhile and fix this one that sags when open really really bad due to what I can assume was due to a sloppy install from our handyman, it’s gotten bad enough that if my parents (who are older) open the gate they can’t close it on their own because it has to be picked up so far. I’m probably gonna end up putting a wheel or something on the final product to keep it supported since it’ll be really long when it’s done, but does anyone know of any blueprints online I could download or general design tips I can use to get this project going? The biggest thing I’m stumped on is how to support it using the other fence post. The final length would be 8’ 4.5” from the opening to the fence post

I clearly put too much trust into my painter’s tape. Please help!! Do I use a super fine sandpaper? Acetone??Edit to add...
09/07/2026

I clearly put too much trust into my painter’s tape. Please help!! Do I use a super fine sandpaper? Acetone??

Edit to add these are stairs! I will not be adding baseboards/trim, it’s the front part of the stairs

So the casings on the windows sit recessed from the surrounding drywall. I know the solution is ripping some spacers, bu...
09/07/2026

So the casings on the windows sit recessed from the surrounding drywall. I know the solution is ripping some spacers, but given that the gap is not always equivalent along its length or around the windows and wanting to complete the job in my lifetime:

1)Better to rip the spacer such that it never sits proud of the surrounding drywall anywhere as long as any gaps are under 1/16

2) better to rip the spacer such that it can be proud of the surrounding drywall, but no more than 1/16.

If there is 1/8” or over im probably willing to try taper a long cut on the table saw. But so far my tapers have been imperfect.

I feel like these cabinets are shoddy. Whoever finished them make a lot of mistakes. Visible glue squeeze out. Lots of s...
09/05/2026

I feel like these cabinets are shoddy. Whoever finished them make a lot of mistakes. Visible glue squeeze out. Lots of small cracks and splits, some shoddy joinery, unfilled nail holes, questionable trim choices (look at that sapwood where the fridge goes!), dented drawers....

and this is not including 7 doors that had to be remade. We just got the replacements and they're such an awful color match, we're going back for another round of fixes...

ETA - ignore the hole in the floor. That was someone else's shoddy work. I included that photo by mistake

I just had my floor sanded and finished with Saicos Hardwax Oil. Right now it looks much more orange and “fiery” than I ...
09/05/2026

I just had my floor sanded and finished with Saicos Hardwax Oil. Right now it looks much more orange and “fiery” than I expected.

Has anyone used hardwax oil before? Did the colour and strong contrast calm down a bit after it fully cured, or did it pretty much stay the same? Please let me know🥺!!

I am working on a dining table for a family member. I used Red and White Oak boards from industrial pallets that my comp...
09/05/2026

I am working on a dining table for a family member. I used Red and White Oak boards from industrial pallets that my company was discarding. Like an idiot, I assumed the lumber was older and stable and didn’t check the moisture content. The glue was done and looked great, but now I have some 1-16” gaps between the boards. The top is 2-1/4” think and really heavy. While it is meant to be rustic, the gaps are a little too rustic for me. The concern is that I have to have the table done by the 19th of the month to transport it to its new home. I don’t want to use a rigid filler and I expect some additional seasonal movement once it gets to the new conditioned space. I can order a Loba flexible product I mix with wood dust, but the arrival is sketchy because it’s fairly rare. Normal putty’s don’t have the flex I think I’ll need. I have hard wax sticks, but I’m not sure they’ll do the trick either. Top is going to be stained a dark oak/walnut per the recipient’s request and will ha e an Osmo poly x finish. Any suggestions?

We recently had new baseboards, shoe molding and door casing installed. I’m trying to understand the proper finish carpe...
09/05/2026

We recently had new baseboards, shoe molding and door casing installed. I’m trying to understand the proper finish carpentry detail where the shoe meets the casing. Because the shoe projects farther than the casing, we’re left with this transition at essentially every doorway. Is there a cleaner way this should be terminated different shoe profile, modifying the casing, etc.? I’m not expecting two different depth profiles to magically sit flush. I’m just trying to understand what a finish carpenter would normally do here and what a realistic finished result should look like.

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